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      07-16-2018, 02:02 PM   #1
crosis
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Question Universal Remote Garage Door Opener NOT Working

I'm trying to program the universal remote control of a 2011 BMW X3 (xDrive35i) for a garage door.

Despite following the instructions of the BMW owner's manual the rear view mirrow button isnt working for the 2 different garage door openers.

Garage Door Opener #1: Skylink 838RS receiver unit + Skylink 838T remote
Garage Door Opener #2: Chamberlain Power Drive (102 1499A) receiver unit + Skylink G5VC

I've tried the both the fixed code and alternating code approach. AFAIK both garage openers are alternating code. Was wondering if anyone else has had problems with some openers?

Thanks
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      07-16-2018, 04:10 PM   #2
ejw2011
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I have the Chamberlain and craftsman garage door openers with rotating code and works for my x3 and x1. Are you sure you are programming the homelink correctly. There are videos on how to program bmw homelink that I used and worked.
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      07-16-2018, 07:42 PM   #3
Barbera335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crosis View Post
I'm trying to program the universal remote control of a 2011 BMW X3 (xDrive35i) for a garage door.

Despite following the instructions of the BMW owner's manual the rear view mirrow button isnt working for the 2 different garage door openers.

Garage Door Opener #1: Skylink 838RS receiver unit + Skylink 838T remote
Garage Door Opener #2: Chamberlain Power Drive (102 1499A) receiver unit + Skylink G5VC

I've tried the both the fixed code and alternating code approach. AFAIK both garage openers are alternating code. Was wondering if anyone else has had problems with some openers?

Thanks
You most likely need a Homelink compatibility bridge

https://homelink.com/compatibility-bridge
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      07-16-2018, 09:28 PM   #4
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Have you looked up your user manuals for your specific garage door openers? For my Genie opener, I was confused at first. Basically I did the following:

From the BMW manual (ignition on):
1) Pair the remote to the mirror by holding the remote w/in 1-3 inches from the buttons and pressing the remote and mirror. Waiting for the flashing to become more rapid.
2) Press the learn/synchronization button on the garage door opener
3) Within 30 seconds, hold down the programmed button on the mirror from step 1 for about 3 seconds. I think I remember flashing changing.

However this did not work. The door did not move. From my garage opener manual it picked up at step 3, but had two more parts:

3a) after completing step 3 above, the learn/synchronization LED on the garage opener stops flashing, and will stay on/solid; and this point push (1 second) the button on the mirror. The red LED will go out.
3b) push the homelink button on the mirror again, which will now open/close the garage door.

I think I stopped at step 3, and maybe even tried 3a the first couple of times, but the door never moved, so I either restarted or tried something different.

One other thing I bumped into at my old house. It had a newer opener (circa 2011) that used an advanced security feature that was more than just a rolling code. The remote used with the system would basically encode the signal and the homelink mirror couldn't pick it up (my step 1 above wouldn't work). To program the mirror I had to put a remote into a dummy/simplified mode so that it could communicate with the mirror. Again, this was in the garage door user guide.

Good luck!
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      07-17-2018, 12:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crosis View Post
I'm trying to program the universal remote control of a 2011 BMW X3 (xDrive35i) for a garage door.

Despite following the instructions of the BMW owner's manual the rear view mirrow button isnt working for the 2 different garage door openers.

Garage Door Opener #1: Skylink 838RS receiver unit + Skylink 838T remote
Garage Door Opener #2: Chamberlain Power Drive (102 1499A) receiver unit + Skylink G5VC

I've tried the both the fixed code and alternating code approach. AFAIK both garage openers are alternating code. Was wondering if anyone else has had problems with some openers?

Thanks
best is an online video on how it works. don't know if you did it but variable code GD openers also need to "learn" the opener, usually a red or orange button on the GD control panel, that so each opener is also programmed into the GD opener. The link button in the vehicle is nothing
more than another opener the GD opener has to "learn". See the GD operators manual for programing. If you don't have them,
again on line at MFG site.
The bad side is if the procedure is not followed exactly... you can wipe out the ones already "learned".
Also I have to "wiggle" the link button on the mirror for it to work? ? ? ? ?
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      07-18-2018, 10:52 AM   #6
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I found several videos all with slightly different instructions. I just kept trying each of them until it worked. Frustrating experience. Sorry I don't remember what I finally did, just wanted to say keep at it and you'll likely get it eventually.
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      07-25-2018, 05:26 PM   #7
crosis
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My issue is when holding the garage remote near the mirror then holding down the buttons of each as instructed under Fixed-Code -- the light continues to slowly flash despite holding both the garage remote and mirror button for over a minute. At no point does the flash ever speed up or go solid. It retains that same slow flash just as u see when pressing/holding after all codes have been cleared.

AFAIK my garage is using a alternating code transmitter. There is no HomeLink icon for my garage door openers. I will keep checking YT vids otherwise will take the advice of purchasing some Homelink Bridge.
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      09-26-2018, 02:41 PM   #8
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Garage door transmitter-where the heck?

Hello

I have BMW X3 2016 idrive28i- which I just bought- I can't find the garage door transmitter buttons- they are not on my mirror- anywhere else they can hide?
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      09-26-2018, 02:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bostonmaple71 View Post
Hello

I have BMW X3 2016 idrive28i- which I just bought- I can't find the garage door transmitter buttons- they are not on my mirror- anywhere else they can hide?
You don't have homelink.
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      10-02-2018, 07:38 AM   #10
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This may be late but, I just went through this ordeal this past weekend. My garage was a rolling code. All I did was press the sync button on the garage opener unit and held the button on the mirror for 3 seconds and boom it connected. I began the process watching yt videos but gave up on those and looked to the owners manual, followed it to the t and magic it worked. I guess BMW knows best on how to work their stuff
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      10-04-2018, 09:49 AM   #11
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Concerning the Homelink integrated on the rear view mirror.
The garage door opener manufacturers changed the protocol on the transmitters making them more safe. They had rolling codes prior, but now it's a different protocol.
BMW changed the board of the UGDO in 2011, but it can be a hit & miss. As an example, I changed my garage door opener with a new model last year - It's a Liftmaster. On their page it states that the 3 series is compatible from 2012 or so. The X3 is OK from 2011.
My F25 was able to take the code. My e92 was not (it's a 2012). What I did, I sourced a mirror from a wrecked car on ebay - it was 2014 or so. The mirror looked almost identical with the one in the 335. So I opened both up, and replaced the board from the other one. Problem solved. Cost was about 40 bux or so.
The other alternative that was brought up is that bridge. I was toying around with this idea, but I noticed some not so good reviews on line. Plus it's more expensive. Now I have a reliable UGDO in my e92 as well.
So it could be that some mirrors on 2011 cars might have an older generation board in the mirror, and hence it will not take the code, although when programming it looks like it does - this is what happened on my e92 anyway.
Changing the board in the mirror is really easy - turn the mirror half turn counter clockwise. Here one has to be careful as not to break the windshield
Then unplug the wires. Once the mirror is out, you need those plastic trim panel tools, and slowly release the tabs that are along the mirror side. This will open the mirror. The board is held in place by couple tiny philips screws if i remember correctly. And there is also a wire attached to it. Just unplug it.
The old board and the new board - they look identical, but probably they have different electronic components. Also, the old board, accepts a 2 wire plug, the new board has 3 wires. But the plug on both boards are identical, so it can accept a 2,3 or 4 plug wire.
As I said, I had no issues, and this is now for over 1 year.
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