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      10-09-2019, 10:53 PM   #1
supreetsingh
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BMW X3 35i Overheating after replacing Oil Cooler Gasket

Hello,

I went to my mechanic to check the minor leak from oil filter. He diagnosed to me to change the oil filter gasket and oil cooler gasket .
After a day he called me and said you also need to change the Valve Cover Gasket.

I trusted him and changed all. I picked up the car from service center. Within 2 weeks i started realizing my car is overheating.

The first time since i bought the car, i got a overheating warning with yellow followed by red on highway.

I took it to my other nearby mechanic and explained him about the recent fix on. My bmw. He had a first glance on Coolant color and told me whoever topped it off is wrong coolant. The color was Green, usually it should be blue. But then he told me to go back to the service center and get it check first.

Also today, I started my car drove it for only 10km parked and was seeing my temperature on engine on. But suddenly , i hear a loud fan noise from the hood and stopped the engine to cool off and took my car back home.

I am going tomorrow , these guys are certified delearship from my extended warranty People Choice Company.

Do you think it is happening from its recent work ? Oil filter and oil cooler gasket or valve cover gasket change because my car was perfectly fine before it.
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      10-09-2019, 11:45 PM   #2
Wgosma
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When one changes the oil filter and cooler housing gaskets the cooling system is opened, some fluid is lost- or the shop may have drained fluid prior to taking the housings apart- that is normal procedure.

The overheat could be due to the system not
Being properly bled of entrapped air after it is closed and topped off. bleed should always be done after the cooling system is opened. Entrapped air in coolant can cause intermittent overheat.
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      10-10-2019, 11:10 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
Entrapped air in coolant can cause intermittent overheat.
Totally agreed. Not just because air is int he system instead of coolant (air wont' conduct heat away nearly as well) but also because when those air pockets hit the temperature sensors it can really make them go nuts (a much higher temperature for that air pocket than for the coolant itself).
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      10-10-2019, 03:06 PM   #4
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Agreed about bleeding, that can leave air pockets, and they can fcuk the engine. What the 2nd mechanic said about coolant, OP has to make sure if it's not the BMW coolaid, then it has to be compatible - the BMW coolant I believe is phosphate free or something - they (BMW) say it's important how this could react (or not) with the gaskets & engine block alloy.
Could also be that the WP (Or T-stat) gave up the ghost coincidentally. That loud fan noise is usually the tell tale for these engines......
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      10-11-2019, 08:35 AM   #5
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When you say "approved dealership" I assume you do not mean dealership, but you mean a repair shop. Being "approved" by an extended warranty company doesn't mean anything good - it means they are cheap. If they put generic green coolant in your car you have to insist they flush the entire system and put in BMW fluid. Don't let them tell you it was "just a little" or it's "okay." It's not okay. It's wrong.
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      10-12-2019, 06:49 PM   #6
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Another possibility - failing coolant pump or thermostat. It may have failed because of oil mixed into coolant, or incorrect bleeding procedure, or just because it is a coincidence.
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      10-14-2019, 11:04 PM   #7
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I agree with the post below. Your gotta give your baby a good burp when the coolant system is opened for a major repair like that.
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      10-21-2019, 09:21 PM   #8
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So they did diagnosed it and told me that it is a Water Pump Failure and asked me to replace it. Fortunately it was covered in my extended warranty and i told them to only use genuine oem water pump. Total cost 790 parts + 3.5 hr labour - 1200$ covered by warranty.

But after 2 days of taking car after fixed. I was having issue with Engine oil not getting measured from the dsiplay screen. It goes to 17% and then disappears.

Also, I gave a light acceleration on sports mode and the moment i gave, i got a Drive Train Malfunction light followed by a Engine Light. My car is shaking and not driving upto the power.

Did these guys messed up anything ? I hardly drove less than 100 km after taking from dealership.
Please advice.
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      10-21-2019, 09:32 PM   #9
supreetsingh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
When one changes the oil filter and cooler housing gaskets the cooling system is opened, some fluid is lost- or the shop may have drained fluid prior to taking the housings apart- that is normal procedure.

The overheat could be due to the system not
Being properly bled of entrapped air after it is closed and topped off. bleed should always be done after the cooling system is opened. Entrapped air in coolant can cause intermittent overheat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Servord View Post
I agree with the post below. Your gotta give your baby a good burp when the coolant system is opened for a major repair like that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by F30ed View Post
Another possibility - failing coolant pump or thermostat. It may have failed because of oil mixed into coolant, or incorrect bleeding procedure, or just because it is a coincidence.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
When one changes the oil filter and cooler housing gaskets the cooling system is opened, some fluid is lost- or the shop may have drained fluid prior to taking the housings apart- that is normal procedure.

The overheat could be due to the system not
Being properly bled of entrapped air after it is closed and topped off. bleed should always be done after the cooling system is opened. Entrapped air in coolant can cause intermittent overheat.

The diagnosed with water pump failure but after replacing it with genuine water pump, i drove car for less than 100 km and saw a drive train malfunction follwed by a engine light. The only thing i did was i put it in sport mode and gave some acceleration and then this happened .
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      10-21-2019, 11:37 PM   #10
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You are going to have to get the dealer to look at the car again; that pump change should not affect the drivetrain nor be cause of check engine lamp...something else at fault here.
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      10-22-2019, 07:21 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
You are going to have to get the dealer to look at the car again; that pump change should not affect the drivetrain nor be cause of check engine lamp...something else at fault here.
My car is in rough idle now , rpm going up and down ! Is this a misfire case ?
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      10-22-2019, 09:37 AM   #12
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Possible spark plug or fuel delivery issue - the shop can read fault codes to diagnose.
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      10-22-2019, 10:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
Possible spark plug or fuel delivery issue - the shop can read fault codes to diagnose.
I went to my mechanic , he scan it and was saying there are Mass Air Sensor codes which he said he reset it. But told me to take it to the dealership who changed the water pump. He said it seems like your rpm going up and down. On coming back home, the engine light again came in with same issue, on red lights when i accelerate , my rpm goes up n down. I drove the car of 50-60 kmph.
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      10-22-2019, 10:22 AM   #14
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Maybe there is an air delivery problem- sounds like the fault codes need to be read again, those cleared mass air meter codes may well have returned, which would point to problems with mass air meter- defect operating mass meter could certainly cause erratic idling/motor RPM and also trigger check engine lamp, improper air/fuel ratio could throw off tailpipe emissions, cause slight mis-fire. Incorrect air/fuel ratio can cause poor combustion which in turn makes engine run rough, etc.
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      10-22-2019, 01:21 PM   #15
supreetsingh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
Maybe there is an air delivery problem- sounds like the fault codes need to be read again, those cleared mass air meter codes may well have returned, which would point to problems with mass air meter- defect operating mass meter could certainly cause erratic idling/motor RPM and also trigger check engine lamp, improper air/fuel ratio could throw off tailpipe emissions, cause slight mis-fire. Incorrect air/fuel ratio can cause poor combustion which in turn makes engine run rough, etc.
[IMG][/IMG]

Hello, can anyone tell me what is this big black hose ? I just found it to be open ! Is it supposed to be open ? Or is this the cause of these MAS error code and shaking ?
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      10-24-2019, 12:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supreetsingh View Post
[IMG][/IMG]
Hello, can anyone tell me what is this big black hose ? I just found it to be open !
There is no image I can see, maybe only me.. Likely you describe charge pipe - the one that connects intercooler to Throttle body (MAF sensor is right there). Just pull the metal clip, push it back and fix with the clip - RMP jumping should go away. Do not push the gas mush to avoid turbo use and change that pipe to aftermarket aluminium version later.

Last edited by F30ed; 10-24-2019 at 01:03 PM..
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      10-24-2019, 06:13 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supreetsingh View Post
[IMG][/IMG]

Hello, can anyone tell me what is this big black hose ? I just found it to be open ! Is it supposed to be open ? Or is this the cause of these MAS error code and shaking ?
No pic


Sounds like you need to find a competent mechanic
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