[lo_cheng]

Originally Posted by teaston

46 or 47 are the best switched fuses to use.

Ground bolt is in front of the fuse box on the bulk head.

Wire for dashcam can just be pushed behind A pillar and head lining, literally couldn't be easier.

OK, Thanks, I will give it a try.

So 46 and 47 is the power sock, what is 56 / 57 for?

[speeddeacon]

Originally Posted by teaston

46 or 47 are the best switched fuses to use.

Ground bolt is in front of the fuse box on the bulk head.

Wire for dashcam can just be pushed behind A pillar and head lining, literally couldn't be easier.

Originally Posted by teaston

46 or 47 are the best switched fuses to use.

Ground bolt is in front of the fuse box on the bulk head.

Wire for dashcam can just be pushed behind A pillar and head lining, literally couldn't be easier.

That worked perfectly, once I figured out my hardwire kit was bad. It's only 15 years old and has been installed and uninstalled at least a half dozen times. Thankfully I had a new one on hand.

For anyone else looking for a radar detector install, fuse 46 works great and the 10mm bolt provides a ground.

[teaston]

Originally Posted by lo_cheng

OK, Thanks, I will give it a try.

So 46 and 47 is the power sock, what is 56 / 57 for?

I think they’re empty in most models, maybe they’re for Hybrids or other regions, they might work fine, but 46 & 47 definitely work and are easily accessible.

[lo_cheng]

I just looked at the A Pillar and head liner
It seem like it easy enough to run behind the head liner to A pillar.
However from there, how do you go down to fuse box?
I see there is airbag inside A Pillar. Do you just push the wire in between the windshield and A pillar?

Also for the dashcam, do you put it right behind the Rearview mirror? or you put it BESIDE the plastic box where the rear view mirror connected to?

Any picture?

[horse2370]

@ sor
You don't happen to have the factory hitch installed do you?

If so, I'm wondering if that 4 pin connector in your 3rd picture (next to the OBD connector) is for a brake controller? (GND, 12V, Brake pedal on and the brake signal from a controller that would go to the blue wire on the 7 pin connector on the rear)

I need to get in there and check the signals. But thought I ask before taking my 1 week old car apart :-)

[sor]

Originally Posted by horse2370

@ sor
You don't happen to have the factory hitch installed do you?

If so, I'm wondering if that 4 pin connector in your 3rd picture (next to the OBD connector) is for a brake controller? (GND, 12V, Brake pedal on and the brake signal from a controller that would go to the blue wire on the 7 pin connector on the rear)

I need to get in there and check the signals. But thought I ask before taking my 1 week old car apart :-)

No, I don't.

[popopine]

Originally Posted by sor

Yeah, here's the diagram. Looks like F46 and F47 are good candidates as I believe that symbol indicates the lighter outlet. I guess those outlets aren't necessarily switched, but there are enough fuses there that something has to be viable.

Note that during my sub install I found that most of the switched outlets don't actually turn off immediately. It takes several minutes.

Thx for all this, and advanced apology if already stated: where did you find the fuse diagram sheet in your car?

thx! popo

[sor]

Originally Posted by popopine

Thx for all this, and advanced apology if already stated: where did you find the fuse diagram sheet in your car?

thx! popo

In the rear fuse box, just above the fuse puller.

[popopine]

Ah! thank you.

[popopine]

Originally Posted by ChuckE

When I got my Dash Cam, from Dashoto on Amazon, they very conveniently supplied two complete (4 different sizes per) AddAFuse kits. Very nice! Having two kits is great because I needed to connect up constant power AND Accessory power. Each kit has four sizes of AddAFuse types (mini, low profile mini, micro, and ATO), and that's great because they don't know what size of fuse you will be easily plugging in the tap at.

All of the AddAFuses have a female Bullet connector on them. They give you many male Bullet connectors to crimp on the wire of whatever wire you have to connect to the fuse. That way, if you later need to change the AddAFuse type (to one of the other 3 sizes) it is a simple pull and re-plug to another type. It is all very nicely sleeved to insulate whichever one you change to. Very good job Dashoto, I am impressed.

What is also nice is that they give you a set of 3 plastic Prying tools. I normally would use whatever screwdriver I have handy, but these plastic tools worked much better - with very little chance of damaging my car. Again, nice.

Also, Dashoto supplied a simple, but sturdy Circuit Tester. That's a sort of screwdriver looking with pointy end tool. Now, I didn't need this because being an Electronics Technician for decades, I have quite a number of multimeters. I can easily check for the presence of electrical power in my sleep ;-). But I found that this Circuit Test was really, really easy for this purpose (checking for the presence of 12volts). It has a several foot long lead, with an alligator clip, to connect to ground. Oh, so easy, and there is that light right there - no meters to have to divert your eyes to.

What works out really great is that these flat plug-in-fuses, used in probably all cars now-a-days, all have a small exposed metal spot on the top of the fuse that is very easy to touch the pointy end of the Circuit Tester, to check for live 12v. So very easy. (By the way, this also makes it very easy to check for blown fuses; just touch each end (that's two touches) to each fuse, and if you see the light illuminate on one end, and not the other - then you have a blown fuse.)

Hey there, I have a question that I'm not clear on. If I use (#47) and a 20A piggyback with a 2A in the slot my detector is hooked up to but the detector is only rate for 10A, am I running the risk of melting the wires? Or is it ok.

Should I just try and run a 10A and if so, what would be the best #slot that shuts off like #47.

thx for your time! popo

[sor]

Originally Posted by popopine

Hey there, I have a question that I'm not clear on. If I use (#47) and a 20A piggyback with a 2A in the slot my detector is hooked up to but the detector is only rate for 10A, am I running the risk of melting the wires? Or is it ok.

Should I just try and run a 10A and if so, what would be the best #slot that shuts off like #47.

thx for your time! popo

The current rating of the fuse you tap in the box/slot doesn't matter, so long as you hook up your tap to the battery side, not the ground side, such that the power to the tap never travels through the fuse box fuse.

Your tap of course has to have a rating that matches your device, such that the fuse will protect the device and melt before the device does. Too low and the fuse will melt under normal operation. Too high and it will run fine until some malfunction occurs that causes too much current, which will start causing damage.

[popopine]

Perfect. Thank you!

[MADBMWX5MC]

Wow, and I am about to hard wire my dash cam and I found this thread. Gotta love it.

[re_mcgraw]

Now that I know where to get the power from for the radar detector, any advice on getting the indicator and mute button over the the driver's dash?

[_ink]

Does anyone have the fuse numbers/positions for dash cam red constant and ACC?

[willjames]

Has anyone just plugged in with the cable to the 12 volt socket in the boot (trunk)?

I've just had a quick look and I ran my current cable loosely (4.5m) from the 12 volt socket, (right hand side as I look into the boot) behind along the back of the rear seats (when folded forward, a gap opens up) to the left hand side of the car out of the back of the seat (near the base of the left passenger seat belt) down round the edge of the rear seat and tucked behind the plastic where it meets the carpet. From there is could be tucked under near the the carpet or plastic trim at the side and towards the front passenger seat and then up the a pillar (behind the rubber) across the top of the A pillar and tucked behind the headliner...ready in position for the camera to sit on the left hand side of the windscreen behind the mirror...phew!

Only problem is 4.5 Mtr cable is not long enough. Would need the 5.5 Mtr (which should reach...just). You can buy from Blackvue (photo below).

I have seen another chap run the cable to the centre console in the rear of the car, however I fear my dozy kids or in laws, would kick it out and break it when they occasionally get in the car.

I like the idea of just plugging into the rear boot socket, where it's out of the way, pretty much well hidden and I could just leave it in in place, I know it will switch off shortly after the car does and may decide to hardwire In future, but just looking for an easy fix without getting too technical at the moment.

[teaston]

Originally Posted by willjames

Has anyone just plugged in with the cable to the 12 volt socket in the boot (trunk)?

I've just had a quick look and I ran my current cable loosely (4.5m) from the 12 volt socket, (right hand side as I look into the boot) behind along the back of the rear seats (when folded forward, a gap opens up) to the left hand side of the car out of the back of the seat (near the base of the left passenger seat belt) down round the edge of the rear seat and tucked behind the plastic where it meets the carpet. From there is could be tucked under near the the carpet or plastic trim at the side and towards the front passenger seat and then up the a pillar (behind the rubber) across the top of the A pillar and tucked behind the headliner...ready in position for the camera to sit on the left hand side of the windscreen behind the mirror...phew!

Only problem is 4.5 Mtr cable is not long enough. Would need the 5.5 Mtr (which should reach...just). You can buy from Blackvue (photo below).

I have seen another chap run the cable to the centre console in the rear of the car, however I fear my dozy kids or in laws, would kick it out and break it when they occasionally get in the car.

I like the idea of just plugging into the rear boot socket, where it's out of the way, pretty much well hidden and I could just leave it in in place, I know it will switch off shortly after the car does and may decide to hardwire In future, but just looking for an easy fix without getting too technical at the moment.

Why not just wire it into the front fuse box with an add-a-fuse? So much easier!

[DocsX3]

Mounted an emergency flasher to the right side sun visor and connected it to the fuse block on the right side foot well. Super easy with an add -a- circuit. Thanks for the great thread!

[wingzee]

For those who tapped on 46 and 47, are they standard, mini or micro size fuse taps? From what some have posted, it’s standard size?

[Roundel-NY]

So, I read through this and some other threads, and I am still not clear how to wire the 3-wire kit for my dashcam, using mini fuses in the front fusebox... Would someone be so kind, and indicate which fuse # to use for switched power and which for battery power?

Thank you in advance!

[Juris]

Originally Posted by sor

Yeah, here's the diagram. Looks like F46 and F47 are good candidates as I believe that symbol indicates the lighter outlet. I guess those outlets aren't necessarily switched, but there are enough fuses there that something has to be viable.

Note that during my sub install I found that most of the switched outlets don't actually turn off immediately. It takes several minutes.

Where did you get the diagram of the front fusebox? Is there one for the rear right (near the tailgate) fuse box?

[Roundel-NY]

Originally Posted by Juris

Where did you get the diagram of the front fusebox? Is there one for the rear right (near the tailgate) fuse box?

Yes, it is in the fuse box, along with a fuse puller.