[Foozed]

Great info in here.
I just hardwired mine to fuse #59 (under the passenger seat) on my 2019 x3 m40i.
It has a picture of a rear view mirror on the map so I was hoping it’s something that shuts off. (And it’s a Mini size which is all I had laying around for the add-a-fuse connector.)
There’s a grounding nut right there too, and then an easy run behind the rubber, up the A-piller and across the windshield.
I’ve just finished and am waiting in the car with the ignition off and the doors locked and at the 6 minute mark it shut off.

[strike4A]

Originally Posted by Foozed

Great info in here.
I just hardwired mine to fuse #59 (under the passenger seat) on my 2019 x3 m40i.
It has a picture of a rear view mirror on the map so I was hoping it’s something that shuts off. (And it’s a Mini size which is all I had laying around for the add-a-fuse connector.)
There’s a grounding nut right there too, and then an easy run behind the rubber, up the A-piller and across the windshield.
I’ve just finished and am waiting in the car with the ignition off and the doors locked and at the 6 minute mark it shut off.

F59 is for the auto dimming mirror. Why not use an empty slot?

[iManu]

I tried tapping with this kit on fuse 46 and then on 47 for my dash cam but I get no power. I also grounded on the 10mm bolt in front of the fuse box like on the previous pictures. Tried 3 different tap kits, and I am using the original 20a and a 10a fuse. I also checked both ways to see incase I messed up the direction of the tap. Any idea why I have no power? I also tried the standard 12v to mini usb and my dash cam worked:
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/0...tedSku=0201594

Please help! Just ordered this kit hoping it will resolve the issue.:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[FirstBMW19]

Check that your fuses aren't blown and that you have proper voltage going to your dashcam.

[SROC3]

Hmmmm.....so will tapping into the fusebox, work with the V1 wire kit? It seems it only has an end that connects to a "wiretap end plug". The Amazon wiretap kit has a ROUND blue plug at the end and the V1 is FLAT SQUARE.

[Hchhuor]

I have an x5 g05. I tried to hard wire blackvue magic pro. I use #27 for constant power and #53 for acc but after locked the car the dashcam would not go off. I’m not able to turn the magic pro on and off. Please help.

[sor]

Originally Posted by Hchhuor

I have an x5 g05. I tried to hard wire blackvue magic pro. I use #27 for constant power and #53 for acc but after locked the car the dashcam would not go off. I'm not able to turn the magic pro on and off. Please help.

How long did you wait? My amp won't turn off until about five minutes after I lock the car.

Oh I see you have an x5. I'm not sure the fuse numbers match.

[Hchhuor]

Originally Posted by sor

How long did you wait? My amp won't turn off until about five minutes after I lock the car.

Oh I see you have an x5. I'm not sure the fuse numbers match.

I wait outside the car for over 30min.

[Hchhuor]

I probably have to go with direct wire without parking mode option.

[sor]

Originally Posted by Hchhuor

I wait outside the car for over 30min.

One thing to try would be to confirm the cam goes off by disconnecting from #53. If it does then obviously there is power on your #53 indefinitely. Try switching to one of the MEDIA fuses

[Hchhuor]

Originally Posted by sor

One thing to try would be to confirm the cam goes off by disconnecting from #53. If it does then obviously there is power on your #53 indefinitely. Try switching to one of the MEDIA fuses

When I discount fuse #53 to the dashcam I can turn parking mode on and off. I can see light on magic pro on and off. Also I try fuse #46 which camera still on after kicked the car but no power to the cigarette lighter.

[SROC3]

I used the empty slot - but for my Radar Detector, which i remove unless I'm going on a long road trip. The constant-power isn't an issue for me. Works great and very happy with it.

[ChuckE]

When I got my Dash Cam, from Dashoto on Amazon, they very conveniently supplied two complete (4 different sizes per) AddAFuse kits. Very nice! Having two kits is great because I needed to connect up constant power AND Accessory power. Each kit has four sizes of AddAFuse types (mini, low profile mini, micro, and ATO), and that's great because they don't know what size of fuse you will be easily plugging in the tap at.

All of the AddAFuses have a female Bullet connector on them. They give you many male Bullet connectors to crimp on the wire of whatever wire you have to connect to the fuse. That way, if you later need to change the AddAFuse type (to one of the other 3 sizes) it is a simple pull and re-plug to another type. It is all very nicely sleeved to insulate whichever one you change to. Very good job Dashoto, I am impressed.

What is also nice is that they give you a set of 3 plastic Prying tools. I normally would use whatever screwdriver I have handy, but these plastic tools worked much better - with very little chance of damaging my car. Again, nice.

Also, Dashoto supplied a simple, but sturdy Circuit Tester. That's a sort of screwdriver looking with pointy end tool. Now, I didn't need this because being an Electronics Technician for decades, I have quite a number of multimeters. I can easily check for the presence of electrical power in my sleep ;-). But I found that this Circuit Test was really, really easy for this purpose (checking for the presence of 12volts). It has a several foot long lead, with an alligator clip, to connect to ground. Oh, so easy, and there is that light right there - no meters to have to divert your eyes to.

What works out really great is that these flat plug-in-fuses, used in probably all cars now-a-days, all have a small exposed metal spot on the top of the fuse that is very easy to touch the pointy end of the Circuit Tester, to check for live 12v. So very easy. (By the way, this also makes it very easy to check for blown fuses; just touch each end (that's two touches) to each fuse, and if you see the light illuminate on one end, and not the other - then you have a blown fuse.)

[ChuckE]

Now, here's another item that some of you might be confused about. Some of you seem to be concerned about the fuse you are tapping to. Whether it is 5, 10, 20, 40, whatever and you wonder if the existing fuse can handle it. Don't worry about that. The existing fuses in your car are for the existing "old" device and the wire connecting between the fuse and that device. That fuse protects the in-car wiring and the device it is connected to. Your new added fuse will not be using any of that - remember you are adding a fuse, and some new wire, for your new device.

All of the fuses in your car's fuse block have a buss strip, under them, which supplies the 12v to that fuse. The other end of that fuse is then going out to that device. However, the underlying buss strip (which you can't see) is quite sturdy and it can handle LOTS more current than just the current needing to go through that fuse. It is a buss, usually a flat plate that connects to multiple fuses in that fuse block.

When you use an AddAFuse (or other similar plug-in fuse adding device) you just want to be sure that when you insert it so that the added free wire (that "pig tail") is on the NOT-buss side of the fuse. That way the buss side (the one where the actual 12v source is) is going to supply the 12v to the new added fuse. To verify that you can try and touch your voltage checker to the socket when no fuse is in the socket. But, that can be hard, or awkward. To make it easier, all you need to do is plug the AddAFuse plug into the place where you wanted to tap to. Don't have any added fuses in the AddAFuse yet. Then just check the voltage on the new "pig tail". If there is 12v there then you have the AddAFuse in backwards! Turn it around.

The reason you want the AddAFuse in this direction is so that the new AddAFuse will draw its current from the buss, and NOT through the existing fuse (which you will place in the relocated "existing" fuse position).

In reality, your AddAFuse will work in either direction. But why would you want this new circuit to draw through the old fuse?

Once you have the AddAFuse properly oriented, just re-install the "old" existing fuse into one of the two new sockets on the back of the AddAFuse. The "old" fuse location will be the one that does NOT connect to the "pig tail". Your new device gets a new fuse in that other position, of the back of the AddAFuse, and the "pig tail" gets wired to your new device.

[admranger]

What’s the verdict on 54, 56, and 57? All are empty on my wife’s X3M40i.

They have 14v and are a smidge easier to access for fat fingers (or butterfingers). Only 54 shows in the posted diagram (three squiggly lines going vertical).

On edit: looks like fuse 54 works. Took a longer time to shut off than I’d hoped for, but after about 15 minutes it turned off (car unlocked).

[strike4A]

Originally Posted by admranger

What’s the verdict on 54, 56, and 57? All are empty on my wife’s X3M40i.

They have 14v and are a smidge easier to access for fat fingers (or butterfingers). Only 54 shows in the posted diagram (three squiggly lines going vertical).

On edit: looks like fuse 54 works. Took a longer time to shut off than I’d hoped for, but after about 15 minutes it turned off (car unlocked).

54 is for auxiliary heating but if you don't have that option then it will be empty. 56 and 57 are empty for everyone.

All 3 are connected to terminal 30B which is the one that switches off after a period of time. Supposedly 6 minutes after the car is locked.

[Waldrept]

Thanks so much for the newtis website. It's been life changing.

[speeddeacon]

Ok so just picked up 2019 X3 and am trying to hard wire a radar detector. I am in the passenger footwell fuse box. Which fuse is switched and where is a ground bolt? I read where several have been successful here but I haven't been successful getting it installed at this point. Thx.

[lo_cheng]

Originally Posted by SROC3

I used the empty slot - but for my Radar Detector, which i remove unless I'm going on a long road trip. The constant-power isn't an issue for me. Works great and very happy with it.

Which empty slot is switched?
Which mean it will cut power when the car is off?

Also, how diffcult it is to run the wire up behind the RR Mirror for dashcam?

I want to see if I can manage to do it myself, or have to bring it to the shop for someone to do it.,

[lo_cheng]

Originally Posted by strike4A

54 is for auxiliary heating but if you don't have that option then it will be empty. 56 and 57 are empty for everyone.

All 3 are connected to terminal 30B which is the one that switches off after a period of time. Supposedly 6 minutes after the car is locked.

Just see this.

So 56 / 57 is better option compare to #46?

[teaston]

Originally Posted by lo_cheng

Which empty slot is switched?
Which mean it will cut power when the car is off?

Also, how diffcult it is to run the wire up behind the RR Mirror for dashcam?

I want to see if I can manage to do it myself, or have to bring it to the shop for someone to do it.,

Originally Posted by speeddeacon

Ok so just picked up 2019 X3 and am trying to hard wire a radar detector. I am in the passenger footwell fuse box. Which fuse is switched and where is a ground bolt? I read where several have been successful here but I haven't been successful getting it installed at this point. Thx.

46 or 47 are the best switched fuses to use.

Ground bolt is in front of the fuse box on the bulk head.

Wire for dashcam can just be pushed behind A pillar and head lining, literally couldn't be easier.

[speeddeacon]

Ok thank you.