[Volkom]

Hi,
I've replaced an old N20 with a new one- old one had a pneumatic waste-gate and the newer engine was wired for an electronic one.

Since the new engine didn't come with a turbo i had to swap the old turbo in.

Is it possible to code out the electronic waste-gate? Right now i'm getting errors related to undervoltage/sensors at the wastegate- the 5 pin plug or whatever is just hanging there since there's nothing for it to plug into.

No other issues post replacement, drove it home in the 'limited power' mode no problem.

Thanks!

EDIT: It's the OLD DME on a new engine with the new engine's wiring harness. I'll look at the old engine this weekend but surely theres no electronics past the wiring harness right? Logically that would mean that somehow the old DME recognizes it's a new wiring harness- maybe by checking what pins are inserted.... Perhaps removing those connectors on the male plug that goes into the DME will mean the DME doesn't detect the plug end that would go into the EWG?

[willywi]

I think DME with electronic wastegate are different from the one with pneumatic one. Electronic wastegate is mevd17.2.9, pneumatic one is mevd17.2.4 and wiring for these two DME are a little different, try to use your old engine harnees see if it will solve your issue.


Here is the link for harness that connects to electronic wastegate:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ess/1VnXNf0yzf

[383vett]

Just wondering, do the turbo and non turbo motors have the same compression ratios.

[Volkom]

It's still the DME from the PWG engine, just with the wiring harness from the EWG version- new engine didn't come with a DME.

I'm looking at the wiring diagram and it doesn't really make any sense...
It's the same diagram from both PWG/EWG engines when i input into newtis via VIN.

Here's a link to the DME's pinouts

Pins 45 and 21 are the two pin connector I need on 2B.

There is NO pinout for the electronic wastegate valve, which should be on 3B on pins 29, 50, 52, 55, 56. Those are 'not assigned' on the wiring pinouts BUT they are listed on this diagram with different emissions standards.
Slightly annoying but it looks like probably pins 45 and 21 are not used on the new harness which means i'll probably try adding them into the connector. Looks like there's no updated pinout for the new engines which is problematic...

I was incorrect in my initial assessment since i didn't plug in the wastegate valve pressure converter connector since i didn't have a connector and the female end of the plug is hidden from view when you look at the engine normally.


To summarize: I have a PWG pressure converter valve which looks like this but has no 2 pin male plug from the new harness that goes into it which is the source of my drivetrain malfunction. I have to either replace the wiring harness to the old one as you suggested, which is quite a bit of work, or add in those two wires myself.

Thank you for the input, i sincerely appreciate it. I'll update with more when I know more.

[e30lover318i]

Why not swap the harness from original engine over? Damage to original harness? I’ve done this on several e46 motors since they had changed the coil pack design and connectors it’s not hard at all just label the plugs.

Normally bmw design the harness pretty good, it looks like a lot of work but once you are actually doing it it’s a breeze, get yourself some painters tape and a marker and label all the plugs and take pix! You can do it you already did the hard part brother !

[Volkom]

With all the hoses and accessories mounted already plus the fact that the new harness came sort of OEM neat, it would just be a bit of a shame to 'ruin it'. It's not really rational at all, considering the entire car was absolutely taken apart just a few days ago. I'm being a little unreasonable about not grabbing the old one, to be honest.

Swapping the old harness in is the right thing to do, but i absolutely despise the rear passenger side of the engine bay on this car, it's just SO tight and cramped, and unfortunately that's where this harness comes from.

Also, the car is in NYC with me right now and the other engine I have is about 60 miles upstate where I go for the weekend so I guess i'll just troubleshoot this during the week and do it right in a few days.

Street parking here is the reality of my situation, no creature comforts like I have on the weekend like my pillows so i can actually just sit on top of the front cross-bar.

I'm also kinda curious if my analysis of the wiring diagrams is correct, so if all it costs me is 15 minutes, some alligator clips and two needles in the right pins it's worth a shot.

[Volkom]

Update:
On the old wiring harnesses the empty spots in the male plug that goes into the ECU/DME are filled with these little plastic pins that you can take out easily and put in a female ferrule without issue.
On the new ones, however, there seems to be some other type of setup that despite taking the plug apart i cant take that filler plastic out, so it's not possible to do that. The only option i can see would be to drill that little piece out and put your own ferrule in, but that's not very clean...
You can see the unused pins here are just empty
I'll swap the harness on this weekend.

The original pieces are made by TE electronics, maybe i can find something on there to help future members out

UPDATE: So i don't remember since it's been a while since this post but I figured I'd update for someone looking in the future.
I initially forgot to add swap wastegate pressure converter when I got the new engine (it didn't have one since the new engine would've had the electronic controller). Regardless, the issue still persisted since there was no pinout for the pressure converter on the new harness. I just swapped the old harness on, which is a pain in the ass unless you remove the intake plenum. Super easy job with the plenum off, lots of room to work. Plug your holes so nothing falls into the engine. Everything works great now.
Note that if you're doing an engine swap where the car was older and the engine is newer, verify via ISTA that your old DME requires EU5 or EU6 injectors.
If you have EU5 in the old engine your DME is coded for EU5. Again, ISTA will tell you with an ABL function. Using EU6 injectors with an EU5 DME will result in check engine lights and incorrect fuel trims (mine were +20). I had lean air mixture codes which is caused by the injectors, though the issue manifested itself as a vacuum issue (fuel trims got better as RPM increased). This was not a vacuum leak as verified via a smoke test and vacuum gauge (50 millibar vacuum in the manifold via a sensor is perfect, note this is a valvetronic engine so the manifold vacuum is much much closer to 0 than a regular throttle body car).
too long didnt read: swap your fuel injectors from the old computer/engine to avoid chasing ghosts.

[gcomm]

Originally Posted by Volkom

Update:
On the old wiring harnesses the empty spots in the male plug that goes into the ECU/DME are filled with these little plastic pins that you can take out easily and put in a female ferrule without issue.
On the new ones, however, there seems to be some other type of setup that despite taking the plug apart i cant take that filler plastic out, so it's not possible to do that. The only option i can see would be to drill that little piece out and put your own ferrule in, but that's not very clean...
You can see the unused pins here are just empty
I'll swap the harness on this weekend.

The original pieces are made by TE electronics, maybe i can find something on there to help future members out

UPDATE: So i don't remember since it's been a while since this post but I figured I'd update for someone looking in the future.
I initially forgot to add swap wastegate pressure converter when I got the new engine (it didn't have one since the new engine would've had the electronic controller). Regardless, the issue still persisted since there was no pinout for the pressure converter on the new harness. I just swapped the old harness on, which is a pain in the ass unless you remove the intake plenum. Super easy job with the plenum off, lots of room to work. Plug your holes so nothing falls into the engine. Everything works great now.
Note that if you're doing an engine swap where the car was older and the engine is newer, verify via ISTA that your old DME requires EU5 or EU6 injectors.
If you have EU5 in the old engine your DME is coded for EU5. Again, ISTA will tell you with an ABL function. Using EU6 injectors with an EU5 DME will result in check engine lights and incorrect fuel trims (mine were +20). I had lean air mixture codes which is caused by the injectors, though the issue manifested itself as a vacuum issue (fuel trims got better as RPM increased). This was not a vacuum leak as verified via a smoke test and vacuum gauge (50 millibar vacuum in the manifold via a sensor is perfect, note this is a valvetronic engine so the manifold vacuum is much much closer to 0 than a regular throttle body car).
too long didnt read: swap your fuel injectors from the old computer/engine to avoid chasing ghosts.

man, had to create an account just to tell you thanks for posting this.. HAVING EXACT SAME ISSUE, FUEL TRIMS AND ALL! DEFINATELY OWE YOU ONE!

One thing I wonder, since the car came with 17.2.4 DME can a 17.2.9 DME work? I have 1 17.2.9 DME but ran terrible and got fuel delivery system errors car only ran for 5 seconds before died and get valvetronics errors, 17.2.4 DME worked fine apart from wastegate issues.. maybe my 17.2.9 dme was bad?

Anyone know if 17.2.9 DME will work with this car since it came with 17.2.4 originally? I have no problems with cloning over data..