[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by pcarnut1

Great write-up, thanks, will save this page for future reference. l like the graduated oil drain pan, where did you find that?

YW!


* chuckle *
so that is actually a sous vide container.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1




TIP: if you buy from amazon warehouse deals, its cheaper and usually shows up NEW or Like-New (for automotive use, I honestly dont care how clean or not clean it is)

[evilchargerfan]

For those interested in seeing a UOA



Enjoy!

[gzalexta]

Can not fill more after 5 quart was added even though my transmission fluid temperature was 40c.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by gzalexta

Can not fill more after 5 quart was added even though my transmission fluid temperature was 40c.

Not all the fluid comes out when just draining the pan, there's still fluid in the trans cooler, lines and torque converter so 5 ltr is sounds about right.

[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by gzalexta

Can not fill more after 5 quart was added even though my transmission fluid temperature was 40c.

are you filling while engine is running?

[HPR]

Marathon session today. New tensioner, idler pulley, and belt; changed out front and rear differential fluid; changed out transfer case and transmission fluid. I'm a bit tired from all the in and out underneath the car. I'm an old guy who doesn't move as well as I used to. Thanks to the folks who posted all the wonderful material photos and writeups on these DIY tasks. No pix from me since these have all been well documented.

I will add several items/tips though. Tensioner and belt replacement were beyond frustrating. Hardware installation is straight forward. The new belt did not want to mount on the pulleys. It had folds in it that had taken a set from being in the package. It kept hanging up on the bottom of the crank pulley where I couldn't see it and I kept thinking the belt was too short. Lesson here is to warm the belt in the sun and pay close attention to it's location when placing on the crank pulley.

The transmission fluid replacement was also straight forward. Be careful when doing the fill at operating temperature. The exhaust pipe is just inches from the fill hole and very hot. No burns here, but worth mentioning. Also, others were concerned that only about 5 liters was used for the refill. That was my experience also. Used about 5.25 liters. Tran temp was 28C when filled and not running. Checked at 35C while running and added to, checked at 40C while running and added to, checked at 45C and added to, checked at 50C and was full. All running checks were done with the car in gear. Moving around under the car on jack stands while it's in gear is a bit unnerving. Final note, once the trans had reached operating temperature I rechecked pan bolt torque and got about an eight of a turn more from each bolt at the 10nm value.

Brake pads and rotors tomorrow.

Thanks again to all who went before and provided great info on these DIY items.

[heticor]

here is good tutorial for the transmission oil change.

[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by heticor

here is good tutorial for the transmission oil change.

thanks for sharing

mods, you can delete my post now

[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by HPR

Marathon session today. New tensioner, idler pulley, and belt; changed out front and rear differential fluid; changed out transfer case and transmission fluid. I'm a bit tired from all the in and out underneath the car. I'm an old guy who doesn't move as well as I used to. Thanks to the folks who posted all the wonderful material photos and writeups on these DIY tasks. No pix from me since these have all been well documented.

I will add several items/tips though. Tensioner and belt replacement were beyond frustrating. Hardware installation is straight forward. The new belt did not want to mount on the pulleys. It had folds in it that had taken a set from being in the package. It kept hanging up on the bottom of the crank pulley where I couldn't see it and I kept thinking the belt was too short. Lesson here is to warm the belt in the sun and pay close attention to it's location when placing on the crank pulley.

The transmission fluid replacement was also straight forward. Be careful when doing the fill at operating temperature. The exhaust pipe is just inches from the fill hole and very hot. No burns here, but worth mentioning. Also, others were concerned that only about 5 liters was used for the refill. That was my experience also. Used about 5.25 liters. Tran temp was 28C when filled and not running. Checked at 35C while running and added to, checked at 40C while running and added to, checked at 45C and added to, checked at 50C and was full. All running checks were done with the car in gear. Moving around under the car on jack stands while it's in gear is a bit unnerving. Final note, once the trans had reached operating temperature I rechecked pan bolt torque and got about an eight of a turn more from each bolt at the 10nm value.

Brake pads and rotors tomorrow.

Thanks again to all who went before and provided great info on these DIY items.

Pat,

thanks for sharing your insight! I was foolish enough to let my arm touch the exhaust pipe, it was not fun.

Could you re post your experience in the big DIY thread? there would be a larger audience there, and many other will find your tips useful

https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1824067

[HPR]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

Pat,

thanks for sharing your insight! I was foolish enough to let my arm touch the exhaust pipe, it was not fun.

Could you re post your experience in the big DIY thread? there would be a larger audience there, and many other will find your tips useful

https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1824067

Absolutely! I'll repost in the larger DIY thread. Did brakes & pads today. You wouldn't believe how badly the mag-chloride they put on the roads here in Colorado during the winter rusts undercarriage nut and bolt hardware.

[heticor]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

thanks for sharing

mods, you can delete my post now

your post is very good... the video complement and answer some of the question. the thread is very helpful for everybody.

[couchflyer]

I just did my X4 M40i, thank you for the guide.

[alphawawa]

OP,

Can you speak to whether or not the transmission behavior was improved (or worse) after the fluid change? I have 150k miles on my F25 35i trans without any fluid changes and have been given mixed advice on doing a first fluid change at this high mileage. The dealer actually recommended against it, if you can believe that.

The Blackstone report was also interesting and helpful, as it seems to imply that the fluid was basically fine, factoring in the detected metal was likely from initial break-in.

[KPL]

Hi! Did you tried to erase adaptation after ATF oil change? Heard that it can harm the process, let the trans to adapt to new oil by itself...
Thanks in advance!

[couchflyer]

Originally Posted by KPL

Hi! Did you tried to erase adaptation after ATF oil change? Heard that it can harm the process, let the trans to adapt to new oil by itself...
Thanks in advance!

Nope

[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by KPL

Hi! Did you tried to erase adaptation after ATF oil change? Heard that it can harm the process, let the trans to adapt to new oil by itself...
Thanks in advance!

I opted to NOT reset learning

I also opted to NOT reset adaptations

[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by alphawawa

OP,

Can you speak to whether or not the transmission behavior was improved (or worse) after the fluid change? I have 150k miles on my F25 35i trans without any fluid changes and have been given mixed advice on doing a first fluid change at this high mileage. The dealer actually recommended against it, if you can believe that.

The Blackstone report was also interesting and helpful, as it seems to imply that the fluid was basically fine, factoring in the detected metal was likely from initial break-in.

@alphawawa


This is not a scientific response, but my butt dyno feels as if the shifts are now "smoother"

A local shop mentioned if they find metal shavings in the fluid, that they would immediately replace with original fluid. (to clarify, re fill with the fluid they drained and NOT replace with new fluid from a new bottle)

I'm not sure what would be best in your situation. On one hand, (IMO) it sounds most reasonable to change the fluid. But on the other hand, you're doing just fine and maybe its best to not rock the boat?

[2013 X3]

totally jumping on an old tread, but wondering if anyone has waited to long to do this and got the permanent fault code "transfer Box (VTG): oil wear......I would love to know how you cleared it if you did!!

[brianhinton77]

Originally Posted by 2013 X3

totally jumping on an old tread, but wondering if anyone has waited to long to do this and got the permanent fault code "transfer Box (VTG): oil wear......I would love to know how you cleared it if you did!!

This thread is for transmission…did you try searching the forum for transfer case VTG faults? ….but to answer your question, you need to clear the fault through ISTA after completing the oil service procedure

[BMW 2019]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

! It doesnt take much to get the car too hot and the process stops you dead in your tracks ... so please do this job on a cold day

This is not how I flash transmission. In brief: I drain transmission fluid, change filter/pan and measure how much transmission fluid came out. Then I pump in exactly same amount of new transmission fluid back. Then shift thru all gears several times as you described, then I drive about 600 miles and drain the fluid again thru drain plug, measuring it. And again filling out back in same amount + half a quart because of temperature deference. Works great!

[BMW 2019]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

thanks for sharing

mods, you can delete my post now

He was going thru gears too fast

[pungo]

Originally Posted by BMW 2019

This is not how I flash transmission. In brief: I drain transmission fluid, change filter/pan and measure how much transmission fluid came out. Then I pump in exactly same amount of new transmission fluid back. Then shift thru all gears several times as you described, then I drive about 600 miles and drain the fluid again thru drain plug, measuring it. And again filling out back in same amount + half a quart because of temperature deference. Works great!

How often do you "flash" the transmission? :

Why not simply following the manufacturers refill procedure, they know what they're talking about?
Your method is more work, measuring what came out, measuring that same amount to put back in, then hoping, though not knowing, if the level is correct
But you do you if you "think" that works great, but I wouldn't advise others you use that method, instead follow the manufacture's procedure so you know for sure that the level is correct...