[evilchargerfan]

Marty in NY

if you're looking for MORE speed and have a car that takes more passes/wipes than others.... a clay buffer pad may be for you. (I have one, but dindt need to bust it out)

https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-0...&rps=1&sr=8-48

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

this is a game changer. it is essentially a really really really BIG friggin clay bar. you go from a clay bar that's the size of a business card, to this monstrosity that is about the size of a baseball glove.

(note, "clay mitt" into amazon yields results that are 2x cheaper. I have not tested other brands, but I am certain they work as good)

Thanks evilchargerfan,
What lubricant are you using? I can see your white paint is wet but assumed it was water until I read the blurb and reviews on Amazon.

[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

Thanks evilchargerfan,
What lubricant are you using? I can see your white paint is wet but assumed it was water until I read the blurb and reviews on Amazon.

ONR - optimum no rinse (imo, a must have for all car owners)




hands down, the #1 most useful item in my detail supply cabinet. this little guy can do it all:

-when I lived in an apartment, I used it as a "bucketless car wash"
or
-one can pump 1 oz into my bucket of standard car wash soap, prior to wash. it makes your soap more "slick"

-a cost effective quick detailer
-using the above ... but totally re purposed ... I mist onto a wet car after wash, to make the surface more "slick" as I dry with waffle weave towel

-can be used as clay lube (I use 1 oz per 32 oz spray bottle. if you think about this, my 1 gal jug can create 128 spray bottles of lube. talk about VALUE!)




(try to catch it on sale when they do those 25% off promos)
https://www.detailedimage.com/Optimu...P444/128oz-S2/

[evilchargerfan]

04/14/20 - Part 3 = The "clay bar" phase... continued.

I spent 30 mins, and did the 4 doors. Also did the A B C D pillars and Rear Quarter Panels.




Bonus: on lunch break, I spent a total of 10 mins doing tire shine:

[willywi]

WOW looks mint

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

ONR - optimum no rinse (imo, a must have for all car owners) hands down, the #1 most useful item in my detail supply cabinet. this little guy can do it all:
-when I lived in an apartment, I used it as a "bucketless car wash"
or -one can pump 1 oz into my bucket of standard car wash soap, prior to wash. it makes your soap more "slick"
-a cost effective quick detailer
-using the above ... but totally re purposed ... I mist onto a wet car after wash, to make the surface more "slick" as I dry with waffle weave towel
-can be used as clay lube (I use 1 oz per 32 oz spray bottle. if you think about this, my 1 gal jug can create 128 spray bottles of lube. talk about VALUE!)

Until I saw your post I had forgotten that I bought this Formula 4 spray wax at the end of last year and have yet to use it. I bought it to rid myself of water spots after rinsing, I'll have to experiment to see if it acts like yours.

Your car looks like it just came off the factory line!

.

[evilchargerfan]

by the sounds of it, that formula 4 is pretty similar to ONR. I bet it works great when sprayed on a wet car before you dry, and I'm sure it'd even work as a clay lube

reddit users report its good stuff:
https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetaili...n_secret_told/




thanks for the kind words guys, but up close the car reveals swirls and tons of other defects ... lol. when I get to the phase where I start to buff/polish... I'll do my best to illustrate some flaws

[evilchargerfan]

04/15/20 - Part 4 = The "clay bar" phase... wrapped up.

It took 30 mins, to clay the roof, wing, trunk, and rear bumper. The roof was a pleasure, only took 10 mins. Normally would take 2x longer. Yay for having mostly glass up there!

I had a "what the heck" kinda moment and clayed the other glass as well, well worth 15 min of effort.










... next step gets pretty intense, the buffing/polishing phase ... to be continued ...

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

04/15/20 - Part 4 = The "clay bar" phase... wrapped up.

It took 30 mins, to clay the roof, wing, trunk, and rear bumper. The roof was a pleasure, only took 10 mins. Normally would take 2x longer. Yay for having mostly glass up there!

I had a "what the heck" kinda moment and clayed the other glass as well, well worth 15 min of effort.

... next step gets pretty intense, the buffing/polishing phase ... to be continued ...

I know you're in sunny Cal but aren't you going to hate to take it out and get it dirty again??? Looks great. Here in NYS, you spend all that time cleaning and detailing and are lucky if you get two days out of it before it gets really dirty again

Hey, now I know where all the toilet paper went

[evilchargerfan]

It sucks when it gets dirty. On the plus side, its easy to foam car down, and rinse. Then its simply dry and/or add a spray on product to "top off". I only do this massive detail job once per 12-18 months. The rest are basic monthly "quickie" washes.

I cant imagine being in an area with extreme weather ... I'm guessing this is a process thats done 2x a year or more for you guys? Or just accept dirty, and live ... lol




In all fairness, that TP was purchased last year for our baby shower. We had a rather grand event with 100+ guests in our home. Our bidet(s) were wildly popular and we went through very little TP that day ... go figure.

[evilchargerfan]

04/16/20 - Part 5 = The "paint correct / polishing" phase ... The Hood.


This step is one my poor old man back dreads. It is hours upon hours of labor. The 20s version of me, loved doing this kinda stuff. No clue wth I was thinking. 30s me, will only do this once in a blue moon.

For those who wonder what products I use:

-Machine is a Dewalt Rotary
-Polish is D151 - Paint Recondioning Cream (All-In-One)
-Pads are MF, I'll start off with the Finishing Disc and see how it goes. Will whip out the Cutting Disc only if I have to

For polish I typically use Meguars M105 and then M205, but I'm getting older and lazier so I'm going for 1 step:




Before:


After:



1 hour later, here is the hood from afar:





I'll try to keep the following words as K.I.S.S. as possible:

-finishing pad did not cut it
-even the cutting pads did not 100% remove all the swirls
-I tried 1400, 1600 and 1800 speeds, still not able to achieve a full paint correction
-I estimate the job will take 8 hrs for 1 step, 12-14 hrs if 2 step.
-I've concluded that if I want this "done right", I will have to do it using a stronger compound (m105) and then a 2nd pass with a polish (m205)

-I've decided to "settle" and be happy with it as is ... because I really really dont want to perform a labor intensive 2 step paint correction. I am hopeful for when I am done, I can cover up any remaining swirls / scratches with a super glossy wax to hide the rest of the imperfections

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

04/16/20 - Part 5 = The "paint correct / polishing" phase ... The Hood.
This step is one my poor old man back dreads. It is hours upon hours of labor. The 20s version of me, loved doing this kinda stuff. No clue wth I was thinking. 30s me, will only do this once in a blue moon.
For those who wonder what products I use:
-Machine is a Dewalt Rotary
-Polish is D151 - Paint Recondioning Cream (All-In-One)
-Pads are MF, I'll start off with the Finishing Disc and see how it goes. Will whip out the Cutting Disc only if I have to

For polish I typically use Meguars M105 and then M205, but I'm getting older and lazier so I'm going for 1 step:

I'll try to keep the following words as K.I.S.S. as possible:

-finishing pad did not cut it
-even the cutting pads did not 100% remove all the swirls
-I tried 1400, 1600 and 1800 speeds, still not able to achieve a full paint correction
-I estimate the job will take 8 hrs for 1 step, 12-14 hrs if 2 step.
-I've concluded that if I want this "done right", I will have to do it using a stronger compound (m105) and then a 2nd pass with a polish (m205)

-I've decided to "settle" and be happy with it as is ... because I really really dont want to perform a labor intensive 2 step paint correction. I am hopeful for when I am done, I can cover up any remaining swirls / scratches with a super glossy wax to hide the rest of the imperfections

evilchargerfan,
Thanks for posting all this, I think it really helps people who want better looking paint but just believe its too difficult or beyond their skill level. You can definitely see the improvement in your before and after pix. Unless you plan on making your car a show piece and never driving it on the street, there is a point of diminishing value to pouring hours and hours into it just to get the very last scratch out…there's also a risk in that too. When using a DA polisher and polishing compounds, you can go through the clear coat and eat away at the paint as you're trying to get that last scratch out, so I think you were smart to have stopped where you did, it looks day and night better!

I use the same Mequiars microfiber pads as you and the Mequire’s 105 Ultra-cut and their 205 Ultra finishing polish. With a little time and effort, you can do wonders, like in your pix.

[pdubq]

Nice detail work folks!

Today I picked up the X from my favorite bimmer mechanic ever...

[shameless plug alert] Dynamic Import Service in Longmont, Colorado... info for anyone in Denver/Metro and the front range, Ty (owner) gives first time customers a free oil change, no gimmick, just to consider his shop. Beyond his BMW expertise, he’s just an incredible, honorable individual [end plug]

Stage 0 work done: Transmission, Differential, Transfer Case fluids/pans/filters changed, new water pump/thermostat, thrust arm bushings replaced, NGK plugs and new coil packs

Stage 2 work done: VRSF FMIC, Charge Pipe, Catted Downpipe installed

WOW! Even before the flash tune, the FMIC/Downpipe really wakes her up, noticeable improvement. I’m still running stock air intake until aFe get’s parts in stock and sent out, but now I can really hear the turbo spool, and it’s incredible! Very slight sound difference from the catted downpipes, (happy about that as I’m not going for LOUD), and no noticeable odor difference at first, but did have a little extra stink after spirited driving on the way home, when I stopped at the mailbox and left her idling.

Drove around the block a few times just to feel the difference on stock tune vs stage 2, and then flashed Bootmod3 Stage 2 91 Oct flash (not AGG). Really straight forward flash, no error codes, and took only maybe 3-5 minutes. Had her on the shop charger just to be safe, but really was no need. Noticeable gains, really happy with the overall result! Super torquey from lower speeds to about 50ish? Not as significant gains above 60mph. I’ll have to play with it more as opportunities to drive present themselves (some day in the future). But exactly what I was hoping for as a daily driver mostly in town... she’s gonna be a riot!

Perfect balance of performance, aesthetics, luxury, comfort and utility.

I also learned that there’s a new part which replaces the original lower cover under the cross beam that supports where the moveable glass meets the fixed panel, and supposedly addresses the rattles that people seem to get in the pano roof. So that’s on order and will get it replaced on Tuesday. Although I was so enamored with the turbo whistle and improved exhaust note, it was hard to even notice the roof rattle

[reillyrocks]

i must say i was prepared to create these as prototypes,
but i think they turned out well enough to be my finals.

I was lucky to find this 2015 X3 Msport last year and now i have only 24k miles on it so it feels new in so many ways.

back story,
this new diamond grille design is becoming more common for the sedans and the aftermarket supports some options for the new G01 X3 etc.....
I bought some carbon fiber framed grilles and cut out the factory style dual slat vertical grilles. Then I bought some new BMW X3 G01 chassis diamond style grilles and cut them out and filed and sanded and shaped them down to fit my F25 X3 carbon fiber grill frames......I used a strong adhesive to glue the new cut diamond style grills and now i have acustom set of diamond grilles for this chassis. I love creating new parts where none have existed before. I also added the small horizontal center carbon fiber blades
and placed them into my two outside lower grilles. They make a similar product for the X5 but they can cost up to $300 from the EU, but not for my F25 so i cut up some Mercedes carbon fiber parts and created brand new parts. I've added the lower carbon fiber splitter and also some Msport carbon fiber mirror covers. I recently added a Remus dual outlet muffler, a VRSF downpipe / chargepipe / FMIC. I think in one shot you can see the carbon fiber rear hatch spoiler too.

[corn18]

.

[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by pdubq

Stage 0 work done: Transmission, Differential, Transfer Case fluids/pans/filters changed

do you recall how much they charged for the trans / diff / transfer case fluids?

did they replace the pan ... or just the gasket?

Originally Posted by reillyrocks

this new diamond grille design is becoming more common for the sedans and the aftermarket supports some options for the new G01 X3 etc.....
I bought some carbon fiber framed grilles and cut out the factory style dual slat vertical grilles. Then I bought some new BMW X3 G01 chassis diamond style grilles and cut them out and filed and sanded and shaped them down to fit my F25 X3 carbon fiber grill frames......I used a strong adhesive to glue the new cut diamond style grills and now i have acustom set of diamond grilles for this chassis. I love creating new parts where none have existed before. I also added the small horizontal center carbon fiber blades

really appreciate the efforts you put into the front end. its nice to see something new / diff

Originally Posted by corn18

.

lol. loved that shot

the look is def not for everybody. to each their own right?


you know what'd be worse? IMO that is. is if EVERYONE looked the same.

[najnad]

I just had all the fluids done, my local shop is still open and was able to get me in with a few days notice instead of a few weeks.

Support your local indy shops during this time!

What I paid (not including tax):

- Transfer case service: $135.79
- Front & Rear diff service: $171.52
- Trans service (oil, pan, filter): $528.19
- Oil change and filter: $123.16

[Wgosma]

That's about same price I paid Indy shop in SoCal last year 👍

[harrydunn]

Programmed the garage door openers. Finally found the "correct" method. First post here. I'll post pics in a separate thread. '14 35i M sport, 29K miles.

[pdubq]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

do you recall how much they charged for the trans / diff / transfer case fluids?

did they replace the pan ... or just the gasket?




really appreciate the efforts you put into the front end. its nice to see something new / diff



lol. loved that shot

the look is def not for everybody. to each their own right?


you know what'd be worse? IMO that is. is if EVERYONE looked the same.

For me I think similar pricing:

Transmission fluid flush with pan/filter assembly: $528
Transfer case fluid flush: $138
Front and rear diffs with new drain plug: $156

I also had the serpentine belt and thrust arm bushings replaced

[evilchargerfan]

04/17/20 - Part 6 = The "paint correct / polishing" phase ... drivers side fender. drivers side doors. driver side skirts. and the folding side mirrors.

Pretty straight forward detailing day, had to manually do the mirrors to prevent possible damage from a high powered rotary machine. 45 mins per side.

(04/18/20 - part 7 = the same stuff, just on the passenger side)

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

04/17/20 - Part 6 = The "paint correct / polishing" phase ... drivers side fender. drivers side doors. driver side skirts. and the folding side mirrors.

Pretty straight forward detailing day, had to manually do the mirrors to prevent possible damage from a high powered rotary machine. 45 mins per side.

(04/18/20 - part 7 = the same stuff, just on the passenger side)

Excellent! You better put up ropes around the perimeter to keep people away So, are you also going to detail the engine bay?