[cybersandman]

I purchased a 2013 X3 with the turbo 4 cylinder engine as a CPO. Had timing chain and turbo replaced under warranty at about 85,000. I have 120,000 miles on it now. I really enjoy this vehicle. Fun to drive and gets decent MPG.

[willywi]

Originally Posted by rothwem

How hard is it to work on the 2.0L F25 vs the other vehicles you've owned? I'm assuming you've had other BMWs?

I would say F series is alittle more annoying to work with, but if you have diagnostic software, programming software and can do some mechanical work it's not that hard to work on.

[Bufalo]

65,000 rapidly accumulating miles on my wife's '17 35i and it's been stout and sturdy. The Nav/Stereo crapped out within the first four months and was replaced under warranty. Original Goodyear RFT tires were finished at 39k last October; the ride is far better with the Continental DWS's that have replaced them. Other than that it's just been maintenance. I'll change the transmission fluid in the spring, and I'll send the oil to Blackstone for testing at the next change to see what sort of wear they do or don't find. Brakes just barely have started to squeak when backing down the driveway, so I'll be checking pad wear when I next rotate the tires - possibly this coming weekend.

The interior is still looking new, and the exterior is fairly stone-chip-free, considering the amount of highway miles she gives it. I load a bunch of live music gear into the hatch every other weekend and it's been up to the task without getting beat or broken. My two young kids like Mommy's car more than Daddy's car. (I drive an '09 328i)

It's our 2nd X3 (we had an '07 that went 170,000 miles), and we're quite satisfied. I expect to get a G01 or F97 when this one is finally used up.

[rothwem]

Originally Posted by pungo

If reliability is important, you should be probably looking at a Japanese vehicle. Even though I've had pretty good reliability with my BMWs, my 4Runner has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned.

Leading contender for us is the RDX, but its a tad small. Might go MDX? Wife's sister has a 2015 4Runner and its nice, but the fuel economy is awful. It takes ~200 miles for her to go through a tank...I googled and the 4Runner's fuel capacity is 23 GALLONS.

I couldn't handle that.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by rothwem

Leading contender for us is the RDX, but its a tad small. Might go MDX? Wife's sister has a 2015 4Runner and its nice, but the fuel economy is awful. It takes ~200 miles for her to go through a tank...I googled and the 4Runner's fuel capacity is 23 GALLONS.

I couldn't handle that.

I agree, a 4runner doesn't get very good MPG, but it is a real offroad capable vehicle built on a truck type frame with a hi/low range transfer case, so a totally different class then the x3. Not that I'm recommending it, but a Highlander is closer to the x3 than a 4runner. If the RDX is too small, the X3 may be too small so you might need to step up to a X5?

[WagonR]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

Spongrez on order, thanks for the recommend

I know the job appears straight forward... but.... is there any guides/tutorials out there for this?

You're right, it's pretty straight forward. Here is a thread that helps outline how to pull the glovebox assembly: https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showt...ight=glove+box


From there, it's helpful to remove the door itself, and then glue the cover to the plastic. I tried to scuff the plastic up and then used a loctite glue. I'm sure a lot of multi-surface high strength glues will work just fine. I think the key is scuffing the plastic, clamping, and allowing the glue to cure.

Stupid that it's an issue, but it's also fixable with an hour or so of effort and $5 bucks in glue.

[WagonR]

I'm sure what I'll add here will repeat some other posters, but I'll provide my experience related to maintenance.

Before I do that, I'd like to say I really like this car. It's a pretty fun car, that feels nice, still looks good, and I'm always happy to drive. I picked the car up used, but it may be one of the cars that across the board I've enjoyed the most.

For reference, my current cars are the X3, a 2017 M2 and a 2008 M3 (both 6 speeds), and previous cars include (not inclusive) a WRX, Integra Type-R, Mazdaspeed3, Challenger Hellcat, Golf R, and J100 Land Cruiser. I only mention that to help support my opinion that the X3 is a great all around car.

1) Car details:
2013 X3 3.5i (N55) with 75k. Purchased in 2016 with 36K. Car had an okay amount of options (I think most for the period outside of HK, HUD, and any lane assist options). I've since added the Dinan Stage 1 tune, and alternating sets of summer and winter wheels/tires.

2) Normal maintenance; I've done all myself, with OEM parts, from online retailers:
a. Three oil changes at $85 a piece (at 45k, 60k, and 75k)
b. Spark plugs $125 (at 65k)
c. Rear breaks at $150 (at 75k),
d. Misc air/cabin filters at $150 (50k and 70k)

3) Things repaired (*or on the short list to be repaired); done myself, with OEM parts, from online retailers:
a. The govebox pealing, around $5
b. *The water pump. It hasn't failed yet, but I'm going to replace it before year end. Call it $600 with supporting hoses.
c. *The oil filter housing gasket (OFHG). Call it $50.
d. Coolant overflow tank. Call it $175.

None of the above has been expensive, but it's time consuming. If you're just going to pay for it to be done, then you're adding A LOT to those costs.


4) Things on the radar as possible issues, or more to do:
a. Drive train fluids. This is a little tricky because so many of the fluids are supposed to be lifetime, but I think $500 or so for the diffs, and $750 for the transmission would be reasonable.
b. Battery. I'm on the original. I use a tender to help it out 3 to 4 times a year, but at some point it will need to be replaced. If replaced yourself you'll need a tool to reset the car for it. Call it $300.
c. Walnut blasting for the intake valves. DI engines, especially the early ones, are all prone to this. Call it $1,000.
d. A tool to help reset stuff in the car, read codes, etc. Around $200.

The most expensive thing on the car has been the depreciation. Everything else above seems reasonable to me for a 6 year old car that offers the performance this car does. Plus, working on the car is actually enjoyable to me, so I'm not calculating the cost of those hours, which admittedly would at a significant amount to the costs.

[willywi]

I wouldn't suggest doing transmission fluid change if it's shifting fine, I did mine at 88k miles and the transmission is shifting like crap ever since.

Originally Posted by WagonR

I'm sure what I'll add here will repeat some other posters, but I'll provide my experience related to maintenance.

Before I do that, I'd like to say I really like this car. It's a pretty fun car, that feels nice, still looks good, and I'm always happy to drive. I picked the car up used, but it may be one of the cars that across the board I've enjoyed the most.

For reference, my current cars are the X3, a 2017 M2 and a 2008 M3 (both 6 speeds), and previous cars include (not inclusive) a WRX, Integra Type-R, Mazdaspeed3, Challenger Hellcat, Golf R, and J100 Land Cruiser. I only mention that to help support my opinion that the X3 is a great all around car.

1) Car details:
2013 X3 3.5i (N55) with 75k. Purchased in 2016 with 36K. Car had an okay amount of options (I think most for the period outside of HK, HUD, and any lane assist options). I've since added the Dinan Stage 1 tune, and alternating sets of summer and winter wheels/tires.

2) Normal maintenance; I've done all myself, with OEM parts, from online retailers:
a. Three oil changes at $85 a piece (at 45k, 60k, and 75k)
b. Spark plugs $125 (at 65k)
c. Rear breaks at $150 (at 75k),
d. Misc air/cabin filters at $150 (50k and 70k)

3) Things repaired (*or on the short list to be repaired); done myself, with OEM parts, from online retailers:
a. The govebox pealing, around $5
b. *The water pump. It hasn't failed yet, but I'm going to replace it before year end. Call it $600 with supporting hoses.
c. *The oil filter housing gasket (OFHG). Call it $50.
d. Coolant overflow tank. Call it $175.

None of the above has been expensive, but it's time consuming. If you're just going to pay for it to be done, then you're adding A LOT to those costs.


4) Things on the radar as possible issues, or more to do:
a. Drive train fluids. This is a little tricky because so many of the fluids are supposed to be lifetime, but I think $500 or so for the diffs, and $750 for the transmission would be reasonable.
b. Battery. I'm on the original. I use a tender to help it out 3 to 4 times a year, but at some point it will need to be replaced. If replaced yourself you'll need a tool to reset the car for it. Call it $300.
c. Walnut blasting for the intake valves. DI engines, especially the early ones, are all prone to this. Call it $1,000.
d. A tool to help reset stuff in the car, read codes, etc. Around $200.

The most expensive thing on the car has been the depreciation. Everything else above seems reasonable to me for a 6 year old car that offers the performance this car does. Plus, working on the car is actually enjoyable to me, so I'm not calculating the cost of those hours, which admittedly would at a significant amount to the costs.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by willywi

I wouldn't suggest doing transmission fluid change if it's shifting fine, I did mine at 88k miles and the transmission is shifting like crap ever since.

What brand/type of fluid did you use?
Did you DIY or have a shop do it?
Were any transmission adaptions reset?
The fill procedure needs to be followed exactly within the temperature range to get the critical fluid level correct.

[WagonR]

Originally Posted by pungo

What brand/type of fluid did you use?
Did you DIY or have a shop do it?
Were any transmission adaptions reset?
The fill procedure needs to be followed exactly within the temperature range to get the critical fluid level correct.

That’s the reason that the “lifetime” fluid is on the list, but I’m not excited to do the job. It’s always easier if you have a trusted mechanic and the money. I was just coming at it from the perspective of cost to own as a DIYer.

[willywi]

ZF fluid and filter, I did it my self. Transmission adaptations was reset and I used ISTA to do filling procedure.

Originally Posted by pungo

What brand/type of fluid did you use?
Did you DIY or have a shop do it?
Were any transmission adaptions reset?
The fill procedure needs to be followed exactly within the temperature range to get the critical fluid level correct.

[MichiganMike]

Originally Posted by rothwem

Leading contender for us is the RDX, but its a tad small.

According to Consumer Reports, the predicted reliability for the 2020 Acura RDX is 1 out of 5 (much worse than average) and owner satisfaction is 3 out of 5. The overall score for the RDX is 61.

For comparison, the 2020 BMW X3 has predicted reliability of 3 out of 5, owner satisfaction is 4 out of 5 and the overall score is 78.

The RDX would not make my short list. YMMV.

[MichiganMike]

Originally Posted by pungo

If reliability is important, you should be probably looking at a Japanese vehicle. Even though I've had pretty good reliability with my BMWs, my 4Runner has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned.

Not all "Japanese" vehicles are top of the class in reliability. According to Consumer Reports surveys, the predicted reliability for both the 2019 and 2020 Acura RDX is 1 out of 5 (much worse than average).

[pungo]

Originally Posted by pungo

What brand/type of fluid did you use?
Did you DIY or have a shop do it?
Were any transmission adaptions reset?
The fill procedure needs to be followed exactly within the temperature range to get the critical fluid level correct.

Originally Posted by willywi

ZF fluid and filter, I did it my self. Transmission adaptations was reset and I used ISTA to do filling procedure.

The most important part of resetting transmission adaptations is the re-learn process. Did you perform the re-learn process? If so how did you do it?

[willywi]

I used BMW software ISTA, the software dealers are using to reset transmission adaptations. I don't think there is a re-learn process with ZF 8 speed it learns as you drive the car.

Originally Posted by pungo

The most important part of resetting transmission adaptations is the re-learn process. Did you perform the re-learn process? If so how did you do it?

[rothwem]

Originally Posted by MichiganMike

According to Consumer Reports, the predicted reliability for the 2020 Acura RDX is 1 out of 5 (much worse than average) and owner satisfaction is 3 out of 5. The overall score for the RDX is 61.

For comparison, the 2020 BMW X3 has predicted reliability of 3 out of 5, owner satisfaction is 4 out of 5 and the overall score is 78.

The RDX would not make my short list. YMMV.

Jeez, wow. We've got a mid-20s budget cap anyways, so 2019s and 2020s are out of contention, but that's good to know.

[MichiganMike]

Originally Posted by rothwem

Jeez, wow. We've got a mid-20s budget cap anyways, so 2019s and 2020s are out of contention, but that's good to know.

The January 2020 issue of Consumer Reports (CR) contains an article illustrating how reliability often drops significantly after a major redesign or for a new model based on the results of CR owner surveys. Examples given include the Acura RDX which was rated above average in reliability for the 2018 model year and than declined to well-below-average reliability following the 2019 redesign. The Subaru Forester, Toyota RAV4 and Hyundai Santa Fe were each rated well-above-average for reliability in the 2018 model year but each fell to average in reliability after a redesign for the 2019 model year.

CR also states: "...the Acura MDX has had below- to well-below-average reliability since its light redesign, also called a freshening, in 2016, as has the redesigned 2019 RDX." Such problems have resulted in CR currently ranking Acura overall as the 29th lowest brand in reliability, sitting between VW and Alfa Romeo. No doubt there are many trouble-free Acuras, but it may be prudent to avoid those model years that appear more prone to problems. Note the 2016 to 2018 Acura RDX are rated above average by CR in reliability.

You may want to research reliability for models and years of interest as well as other attributes. Among the vehicles that CR recommends as used SUVs in or below your price range are: 2015 Lexus RX, 2018 Mazda CX-5, 2015 Toyota Highlander and 2015 Toyota Venza.

Good luck on your search.

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by willywi

I wouldn't suggest doing transmission fluid change if it's shifting fine, I did mine at 88k miles and the transmission is shifting like crap ever since.

Indy much did my tranny and xfer case fluids and reset xfer case adaptations at 73K miles- very slight tranny shifting improvement and little very low speed "creeping" when pulling into garage or similar disappeared, totally smooth. 2012 2.8i car.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by willywi

I wouldn't suggest doing transmission fluid change if it's shifting fine, I did mine at 88k miles and the transmission is shifting like crap ever since.

Originally Posted by willywi

I used BMW software ISTA, the software dealers are using to reset transmission adaptations. I don't think there is a re-learn process with ZF 8 speed it learns as you drive the car.

Replacing half the old fluid with new fluid of the exact same type should not have caused shifting problems. I think resetting the trans adaptions caused your shifting issues, not the new fluid.

[rirrgang]

Mine got a water pump at 48k
If you can get a warranty, DO IT. I had 12k worth of work done on my X3. Started with a oil leak at the filter housing. 12k later, they took the engine out to replace the pan gasket, head gasket, and all associated gaskets to put the engine back together. Got a new transfer case (4k) and lower control arms. The X3 had 81k on the clock at the time of repair. Now it runs better then when I got it 2 years ago.
Also, get rid of the run flats if it has them. I switched to Yokohama Avid's and love them

[razzy530]

Just bought a 2013 F25 with the N20 engine. 60k miles. What should I loook out for ?

[Wgosma]

Read about timing chain guide failures- BMW extended warranty; there is a class action lawsuit in progress on this issue.