[Bufalo]

Seems like the best option for neutralizing the balance would be to use the non-sport (225A) front bar with the sport (226A) rear bar. From there, use whatever springs you prefer with shocks and mounts designed for use with 226A. We'll never "correct" the feel of the electronic steering rack, but that combo with non-run-flat tires would make the F25 a pretty capable machine (it already is!)

[HDBoss]

It was a surprise with a front B6 shock for me because it comes with built-in bump stop and dust over. No need to use original parts.
The original is much more smaller than built-in as you can see. On the photo I put original dust cover with bump stop (front and rear) and front B6 shock.

[pokerface]

Bump - HDBoss any feedback so far ?

[HDBoss]

I had two very busy weeks and no chance to spend a time for my car. Finally I got all parts necessary to upgrade the front and rear suspension. Going to replace front/rear sway bars and shocks next weekend.
I need your advices with a grease usage. FCP recommend to use grease for E83 body (

). A front sway bar have glued built-in rubber mounts for F25 body.
Is it necessary to use a grease on a front sway bar in between of rubber mount and stub support? What about grease for rear sway bar?

[x3sm]

Originally Posted by HDBoss

I had two very busy weeks and no chance to spend a time for my car. Finally I got all parts necessary to upgrade the front and rear suspension. Going to replace front/rear sway bars and shocks next weekend.
I need your advices with a grease usage. FCP recommend to use grease for E83 body.
A front sway bar have glued built-in rubber mounts for F25 body.
Is it necessary to use a grease on a front sway bar in between of rubber mount and stub support? What about grease for rear sway bar?

I would imagine you can use any general car grease sold locally. Also it does not look like you need to drop the rear subframe to install the rear bar, there is room to wiggle it from my observations.

[HDBoss]

Originally Posted by x3sm

I would imagine you can use any general car grease sold locally. Also it does not look like you need to drop the rear subframe to install the rear bar, there is room to wiggle it from my observations.

I do not expect any hard work with the REAR axle. A sway bar and shock should be replaced easily.

Also I do not need to drop FRONT subframe based on ISTA but it says coolant have to be drained. Will check if this really necessary to remove front sway bar.
I will post a complete parts list and photo in this thread.

It looks like silicon spray will be better for a sway bar rubber mount.

[x3sm]

Originally Posted by HDBoss

I do not expect any hard work with the REAR axle. A sway bar and shock should be replaced easily.

Also I do not need to drop FRONT subframe based on ISTA but it says coolant have to be drained. Will check if this really necessary to remove front sway bar.
I will post a complete parts list and photo in this thread.

It looks like silicon spray will be better for a sway bar rubber mount.

Yes please take pictures of rear and front install!

[HDBoss]

Ordered a lot of parts that have to be changed for f25 (n55) body based on ISTA...

For the front stab:
Stab mount - 07 11 9 907 082 - 4 pcs
Stab link mount - 37 10 6 789 678 - 4 pcs (2 pcs only for stab replacement)

For the front shocks:
Shock mount lower - 07 11 9 906 982 - 2 pcs
Shock mount lower - 37 10 6 789 678 - 2 pcs
Strut mount - 31 30 6 851 799 - 6 pcs
Guide support - 31 30 6 852 158 - 2 pcs
Spring pad upper - 31 33 6 787 114 - 2 pcs (change if it damaged only)
Spring pad lower - 31 33 6 860 788- 2 pcs (change if it damaged only)

For the rear stab:
Stab mount - 33 32 6 768 884 - 2 pcs
Stab mount - 33 55 6 790 958 - 4 pcs
Stab mount rubber - 33 55 6 788 058 - 2 pcs

For the rear shocks:
Shock mount lower - 07 11 9 906 495 - 2 pcs
Shock mount lower - 33 32 6 794 873 - 2 pcs
Strut mount - 33506792574 - 6 pcs
Guide support - 33506787178 - 2 pcs
Spring pad lower - 33536856172 - 2 pcs (change if it damaged only)
Spring pad upper - 31336798834 - 2 pcs (change if it damaged only)

[HDBoss]

I bought used sway bars so decided to bring them new look.

All rust removed, coated with epoxy primer and left for one week.
Next layer was black gloss paint.
After this all parts covered with transparent corrosion resist non-sticky film.

Here are photos how it looks now.

[HDBoss]

Hello there.

Unfortunately I can show you any progress with sway bar replacement.
I completely stuck with the bolt that hold spring strut from a lower side... I was tried to remove it during two weekend days and have no luck to move it even with bolt extruder tool and a hammer.

There is a place where all dirt from the road will got to this bolt easily. Number 3 on the diagram.

Going to completely remove wheel carrier this week and drill out this bolt.

[HDBoss]

Front sway bar replaced from standard to sport variant.
It's absolutely necessary to remove coolant fan and FMIC.
You have to drain coolant and remove two hoses - one from left and other from right side.

Measured both sway bar on two points again.

[HDBoss]

There are not a lot of space to remove hexagon screw with flange (13 socket) from the sway bar support, especially from the back side. I could use my smallest wrench with 1/4 driver only.

It stucks between the frame and the sway bar support and you do not have a room from the upper side - here are car body again(

[x3sm]

Originally Posted by HDBoss

There are not a lot of space to remove hexagon screw with flange (13 socket) from the sway bar support, especially from the back side. I could use my smallest wrench with 1/4 driver only.

It stucks between the frame and the sway bar support and you do not have a room from the upper side - here are car body again(

This is the rear bar?

[HDBoss]

Originally Posted by x3sm

This is the rear bar?

No, it’s front sway bar only. I mean back side of mounting bracket.
I am going to change rear sway bar this weekend but there will be hard work. Full rear frame with differential should be dismounted from the body and lowered.

[Bufalo]

So it appears the sport front bar really is only .8mm thicker than the standard - hardly seems worth the considerable installation effort. At the same time, knowing the sport rear bar is a full 2.0mm thicker than standard, that DOES seem like it could be worthwhile.

[HDBoss]

Unfortunately, there is no easy way to change rear sway bar(

You have to remove:
- complete exhaust system;
- underbody heat shields;
- complete propeller shaft;
- both rear brake-caliper supports with break pads;
- both rear spring struts with camber links;
This was done last weekend.

After this you have to lower rear axle support...

[HDBoss]

I will attach the standard and the sport rear sway bar photos later when my install was finished.

[x3sm]

Originally Posted by HDBoss

Unfortunately, there is no easy way to change rear sway bar(

You have to remove:
- complete exhaust system;
- underbody heat shields;
- complete propeller shaft;
- both rear brake-caliper supports with break pads;
- both rear spring struts with camber links;
This was done last weekend.

After this you have to lower rear axle support...

Wow really? I thought its possible to wiggle it out without dropping frame or the shafts. Maybe this is why no one designed sway bars for this car because you have to disassemble half the car to remove them, most people wont do that.

[omasou]

Originally Posted by x3sm

Hello guys, I have been doing research on ways of lowering the X3 comfortably and found a lot of mixed reviews. I thought it would be a good idea to put our suspension upgrades/reviews in one thread. There are a lot of threads about this, but its good to get a collective here.

Available for the F25 X3:
Coil-overs: Megan Racing (Lowers 1.00 - 3.00 inches confirmed with Megan), KW V2
Springs: H&R, Eibach, FK Automotive
Shocks: Bilstein B6 / B4 Sport / B4 OE, KONI Red

...

Back in the day a lot of folks would modify their E36M3 using H&R springs and Bilstein shocks and everyone single one of them complained how harsh the ride became. Since then I still see people using H&R springs and complain about ride quality. Now I know a lot of people love those brands but I prefer Eibach they seem to do the job w/less compromise.

Originally Posted by HDBoss

...

There is a place where all dirt from the road will got to this bolt easily. Number 3 on the diagram.

Going to completely remove wheel carrier this week and drill out this bolt.

I snapped that bolt on my previous E70 X5, while replacing my rear strut mounts. In my case the part the screw went into had a weep hole that let water in to the threads near the tip of the screw and rusted gunked up the insides. I had no problem getting the screw out but put it back in temporarily to jack up the shock and then went to take it out to replace with a new one. Should have left it alone. The crude locked up the screw's fine threads and of course I was dead set on getting it out. Well, a tow to an independant and $400+ later the screw was drilled out and replaced it w/the new one.

All this to say... see if there is a weep hole and to see if you can flush the crap out.

Originally Posted by x3sm

Wow really? I thought its possible to wiggle it out without dropping frame or the shafts. Maybe this is why no one designed sway bars for this car because you have to disassemble half the car to remove them, most people wont do that.

Yeah, on the F25/F26 and probably others you have to drop the entire rear subframe but until seeing HDBoss' pictures, I didn't realize just how painful it is!

[x3sm]

Originally Posted by omasou

Back in the day a lot of folks would modify their E36M3 using H&R springs and Bilstein shocks and everyone single one of them complained how harsh the ride became. Since then I still see people using H&R springs and complain about ride quality. Now I know a lot of people love those brands but I prefer Eibach they seem to do the job w/less compromise.



I snapped that bolt on my previous E70 X5, while replacing my rear strut mounts. In my case the part the screw went into had a weep hole that let water in to the threads near the tip of the screw and rusted gunked up the insides. I had no problem getting the screw out but put it back in temporarily to jack up the shock and then went to take it out to replace with a new one. Should have left it alone. The crude locked up the screw's fine threads and of course I was dead set on getting it out. Well, a tow to an independant and $400+ later the screw was drilled out and replaced it w/the new one.

All this to say... see if there is a weep hole and to see if you can flush the crap out.



Yeah, on the F25/F26 and probably others you have to drop the entire rear subframe but until seeing HDBoss' pictures, I didn't realize just how painful it is!

I think I hate BMW F-chassis cars lol

[HDBoss]

Originally Posted by omasou

In my case the part the screw went into had a weep hole that let water in to the threads near the tip of the screw and rusted gunked up the insides...later the screw was drilled out and replaced it w/the new one

I couldn't shake it even with the spring strut and swivel bearing removed together. In my case the bolt can be removed when divided on a half only. The same for left and right side.
Here are bolt photos that I made when replacing front spring struts. Plus photos with fixed problem and a new bolt)

[HDBoss]

Front suspension upgraded:
Eibach springs, 30mm lowered;
Sport swaybar;
Bilstein B6 ammo.