[Alias1431]

Originally Posted by Sbrox

First post here. I have a 2020 X3 M40i, and like most people on this thread, felt the Harman Kardon system lacked punch at the low end. After seeing all the responses and solutions on this thread, I decided to have mine professionally done with a JL sub and amp under the trunk space. I have an appointment tomorrow at 9am and looking forward to hear the difference.

Very nice. Which JL? Come back with pics and a review!

[Sbrox]

Really happy so far with the decision to install another sub. The floor bottom was taken out so there was more room to build a larger box. I cut the front part, so the batteries wouldn't show when you opened the trunk bottom. The best thing about the install is the bass knob. I can increase/decrease the level of the sub based on songs/genres.

[83883]

Nice setup, congrats. That looks like a ton of air space for that sub.

[vpop4me]

Originally Posted by 83883

Hi does your car have the RAM/Booster setup, ie ID7.

> Yes it does

The tecnic kit you bought how is that integrated ?

> You unplug the OEM harness from the booster, plug that OEM harness into the Technic harness, and then plug the new end of the Technic harness back into the booster. I bought the one with the optional LOC and the harness came ready to just plug in the LOC. The LOC is about 3" square and I have it placed right beside the enclosure on the front wall of that space.

Does it continue to supply the under-seat speakers from the booster and also give you a line out to connect to the JL amp/sub you have fitted. Is there any settings to choose/select technic LOC/harness (not the ones on the JL amp, but while we are at it what did you choose on the amp).

> Yes that is right. You can choose to continue to power the underseat woofers from the OEM booster, or you can get that output from the Technic harness to go to a separate amp for the underseat woofers. It is your choice. It comes with the harness for the LOC, all plug-n-play, and there is nothing to set on the LOC unless you need to adjust the gain. On the JL, I needed to take the input sensitivity all the way down to match the volume curve of the HK and get the cleanest bass. I am currently using it with the crossover basically bypassed (using all of the incoming bass freq's from the HK system).

Does the tecnics kit itself require power ?

> Nope.

There is talk of the BMW's tailing off bass power at higher volumes is this still the case using the tecnic harnes etc or does this negate this problem.

> Yes the lower bass stops getting louder once you get up to 75-80% volume. A RBC-1 volume control for the enclosure can help with that.

Supplying power to the amp is the easiest of any car you will fit an amp to (location wise), i notice a blue wire (often used for the remote switch on for an amp) did this need that or is the JL amp auto sensing

> Yep, super easy. I am not using the blue remote wire, just using the auto-sensing on the JL. I am going to clean up my install this weekend and hide all wires.

Sorry but i tried to think of all the questions in one go. Cheers.

> No prob. I am no expert on the harness so I would check with Technic directly for specific questions about his harness.

Quick question for you. I have nearly your exact setup with the technic harness, JL sub enclosure, and a small amp. I have the same wavetech link2 loc that technic uses, but I am having difficulty getting it to power down when I turn off the car. It seems the auto turn-on via DC offset isn't allowing the LOC to turn off which in turn keeps the amp powered. Have you had the same issue?

[smanji]

Originally Posted by 83883

I went with the low-profile JL powered 10" (ACS110LG-TW1) and a Technic harness with LOC. The total was about $640 for the sub, harness and LOC, and an amp kit with fuse and 8ga wire. Pretty cheap solution and a 30 minute install. It added the much needed bass floor that was so lacking with the HK.

Would you mind sharing links to the products you purchased for this install?
Im very interested in carrying this out. Ive had sounds system installed in my previous car and I am deeply missing some low end from the HK system.

[83883]

Originally Posted by vpop4me

Quick question for you. I have nearly your exact setup with the technic harness, JL sub enclosure, and a small amp. I have the same wavetech link2 loc that technic uses, but I am having difficulty getting it to power down when I turn off the car. It seems the auto turn-on via DC offset isn't allowing the LOC to turn off which in turn keeps the amp powered. Have you had the same issue?

My LOC and JL power down immediately either by locking the car or shutting down by holding down the volume control. If I don't lock or shut down anything, the LOC and JL will turn off on their own after a few minutes. I am currently using the Signal turn-on mode and not using a remote wire. Have you tried that already?

[83883]

Originally Posted by smanji

Would you mind sharing links to the products you purchased for this install?
Im very interested in carrying this out. Ive had sounds system installed in my previous car and I am deeply missing some low end from the HK system.

Sure.

Harness:
Harness for HK (Option 688) Add-a-Sub Harness for RAM/Booster audio systems

Enclosure (sold at many online stores):
JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1
There is also an 8" ported version that will fit.

Remote volume (optional):
JL Audio RBC-1

Wire: You'll need a few feet of good power/ground wire, some terminal ends, and an in-line fuse. If you don't want to find them separately you can buy a cheap amp kit, something like this:
Amp kit 8-guage

[vpop4me]

Originally Posted by smanji

Would you mind sharing links to the products you purchased for this install?
Im very interested in carrying this out. Ive had sounds system installed in my previous car and I am deeply missing some low end from the HK system.

Technic Harness - https://technicpnp.com/product/logic...sub-t-harness/

Line Output Converter - Wāvtech link2

Line Output Converter Power \ Ground Wire - Install Bay IBR38 (Crutchfield)

Line Output Converter Fuse - Install Bay IBR111 ATC Fuses (Crutchfield)

Amplifier - Focal FDS 1.350

Sub\Box - JL Audio CS112LG-TW3

Amp Wiring Kit - Crutchfield CK10

RCA Cable - Something I bought off Amazon

This gear all fits nicely next to the OEM amplifier. Nice and clean. I'm researching using a fuse for auto turn on. This will be my last step in the installation.

[vpop4me]

Originally Posted by 83883

My LOC and JL power down immediately either by locking the car or shutting down by holding down the volume control. If I don't lock or shut down anything, the LOC and JL will turn off on their own after a few minutes. I am currently using the Signal turn-on mode and not using a remote wire. Have you tried that already?

I have the Wavtech Link2 LOC. I have tried auto-on with both the DC-offset and speaker level input signal sensing using Technics harness. The speaker level input would only auto-on when my volume was about 3/4 to max. The DC-offset would never power down the LOC. I'm now searching for a switched fuse to utilize the remote in for auto power on.

Which LOC are you using?

[spta97]

Originally Posted by vpop4me

I have the Wavtech Link2 LOC. I have tried auto-on with both the DC-offset and speaker level input signal sensing using Technics harness. The speaker level input would only auto-on when my volume was about 3/4 to max. The DC-offset would never power down the LOC. I'm now searching for a switched fuse to utilize the remote in for auto power on.

Which LOC are you using?

I know this was directed to someone else, but...

I used fuse 218 (ASD) since I had pulled the fuse to disable I figured I would give it a real purpose in sound

I still used an "add a fuse" but do not have a fuse in the slot which controls the ASD.

I have a lot of details in my thread about my sub/amp/LOC install

I'm using the AudioControl LC2i.

The tech support was phenomenal - and they had noted that the "GTO" (great turn on, aka: signal sensing) did not work well on BMWs. Perhaps this is the same with your LOC.

[83883]

Originally Posted by vpop4me

I have the Wavtech Link2 LOC. I have tried auto-on with both the DC-offset and speaker level input signal sensing using Technics harness. The speaker level input would only auto-on when my volume was about 3/4 to max. The DC-offset would never power down the LOC. I'm now searching for a switched fuse to utilize the remote in for auto power on.

Which LOC are you using?

Same one... Wavtech Link2, with very short RCA's directly into the JL.

[vpop4me]

Originally Posted by spta97

I know this was directed to someone else, but...

I used fuse 218 (ASD) since I had pulled the fuse to disable I figured I would give it a real purpose in sound

I still used an "add a fuse" but do not have a fuse in the slot which controls the ASD.

I have a lot of details in my thread about my sub/amp/LOC install

I'm using the AudioControl LC2i.

The tech support was phenomenal - and they had noted that the "GTO" (great turn on, aka: signal sensing) did not work well on BMWs. Perhaps this is the same with your LOC.

Wow! Now that is an install. Thanks a million.

[spta97]

Originally Posted by vpop4me

Wow! Now that is an install. Thanks a million.

I'm no expert, but feel free to shoot me any questions.

[bpang1]

Can I please confirm what I'll need to install the following JL Microsub+ in terms of wiring it? 2018 X3 M40i with Harman Kardon.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136933...v3.html?tp=114

FYI - I also have the remote knob for this setup.

I see someone posted this: https://technicpnp.com/product/hk-op...oster-systems/

Do I have the right one chosen? What is this "LOC" a bunch of you have mentioned? Should I get the version with or without "LOC"?

[spta97]

Originally Posted by bpang1

Can I please confirm what I'll need to install the following JL Microsub+ in terms of wiring it? 2018 X3 M40i with Harman Kardon.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136933...v3.html?tp=114

FYI - I also have the remote knob for this setup.

I see someone posted this: https://technicpnp.com/product/hk-op...oster-systems/

Do I have the right one chosen? What is this "LOC" a bunch of you have mentioned? Should I get the version with or without "LOC"?

LOC = Line Output Converter. It converts the high wattage signal into a low level signal for your amp. If the JL you are using accepts high level inputs you may not need it. My amp only accepted low level (RCA) so I did.

Edit, that JL does accept high level but I would check to see if it can work within the wattage of the HK BMW system:

Audio Inputs: The amplifier section will accept either a line level (RCA) or speaker level signal. A 12" speaker level input harness is included.

[bpang1]

Originally Posted by spta97

LOC = Line Output Converter. It converts the high wattage signal into a low level signal for your amp. If the JL you are using accepts high level inputs you may not need it. My amp only accepted low level (RCA) so I did.

Edit, that JL does accept high level but I would check to see if it can work within the wattage of the HK BMW system:

Audio Inputs: The amplifier section will accept either a line level (RCA) or speaker level signal. A 12" speaker level input harness is included.

Thank you...I actually have that sub in my Stinger that has an HK system it is getting the high level signals off of. I'll follow up with my audio guy when I go in tomorrow to get it pulled as I prepare to trade it in.

I'm just happy I can use it again and there's a perfect space to put it.

[spta97]

Originally Posted by bpang1

Thank you...I actually have that sub in my Stinger that has an HK system it is getting the high level signals off of. I'll follow up with my audio guy when I go in tomorrow to get it pulled as I prepare to trade it in.

I'm just happy I can use it again and there's a perfect space to put it.

NP - I wish I could get away with a smaller sub or they were somehow able to defy physics and come up with a way not to require so much space but I love me some mirror rattling bass

I’m ok with taking up like 70% of my trunk space (JL bandoass with a W7) because I use my truck if I have to haul stuff.

[bpang1]

What’s the benefits of that connector setup versus an Audiocontrol LC2i and a more traditional install? Is it because this stuff is fully plug and play so you don’t have to run the power and remote wires?

[alikbrilliant]

so, did you use ACS110LG-TW1 Depth: 5-1/8" (5-7/8" including grille) OR ACP110LG-TW1 because the image with the measurements is for ACP110LG-TW1 witch is a ported one and it's deeper Depth: 6-5/8" (7-3/8" including grille) how is the lid??? did it closed?

Thank you

[alikbrilliant]

Originally Posted by 83883

Yes just ran power directly from the battery, which is at the rear of the trunk. It is only like 2' of wire. I made two small hidden holes into the compartment for the wiring. It is a drop-in fit with plenty of room on all sides and top. I haven't secured it yet but it hasn't moved. I am able to fit a tire kit and a few tools in there along with the sub enclosure.

so, did you use ACS110LG-TW1 Depth: 5-1/8" (5-7/8" including grille) OR ACP110LG-TW1 because the image with the measurements is for ACP110LG-TW1 witch is a ported one and it's deeper Depth: 6-5/8" (7-3/8" including grille) how is the lid??? did it closed?

Thank you

[83883]

Originally Posted by alikbrilliant

so, did you use ACS110LG-TW1 Depth: 5-1/8" (5-7/8" including grille) OR ACP110LG-TW1 because the image with the measurements is for ACP110LG-TW1 witch is a ported one and it's deeper Depth: 6-5/8" (7-3/8" including grille) how is the lid??? did it closed?

Thank you

I am using the sealed ACS and it closes just fine.

[alikbrilliant]

thank you for your reply