[BlownLSX]

Just find a ARP 625 1/2 stud that will fit. I believe they are 280,000 tensil strength.

[Kevin_The_Clean1]

Originally Posted by TacosRule!

Dude, I am lost. I'm just waiting on Ryan to answer my PMs so that I can get his kit.

I'm getting pretty lost too & this thread should come with a bag of free popcorn. It's funny that MaxWell has an X3 MC with 40k on the clock & 40-50 launches (conservative estimate) & yet his factory bolt was just fine / straight as an arrow. For me at this time, I'm not going to invest another minute or dollar into 1 of 10 different solutions. If this were really as bad as people say it is, there would have been a revised bushing & bolt assembly built by the M division at some point. It's also ironic, this same things doesn't occur very often in the TT V-8 powered M5 with the same drive-train.

Lets put it this way, when you stand back at look at the big picture, tons of people began jumping on the bandwagon saying the ride quality was too harsh. But I never experienced any of that from day one. So when I hear others talk about it & discuss it in great length, I almost naturally tune it out. To prevent myself from the future headaches. If I took my X3 MC to the drag strip often or tracked in on a semi regular basis, then yes, I would be more prone to look into this solution. But for a well taken care of street machine, I would have to abuse my machine on a regular basis to actually benefit from this.

Hope you guys eventually figure a the best method for this & the one that's the least obtrusive. Each week another person has a new offering for this. So I've lost track of which one suits a daily driven street machine best. When you guys are done here please let me know what you have devised as a "simple" solution. There are way too many variables & "alternative solutions" in the mix right now that haven't been ironed out yet for me to consider investing my time into one of these.

[Jnat]

Originally Posted by Kevin_The_Clean1

I'm getting pretty lost too & this thread should come with a bag of free popcorn. It's funny that MaxWell has an X3 MC with 40k on the clock & 40-50 launches (conservative estimate) & yet his factory bolt was just fine / straight as an arrow. For me at this time, I'm not going to invest another minute or dollar into 1 of 10 different solutions. If this were really as bad as people say it is, there would have been a revised bushing & bolt assembly built by the M division at some point. It's also ironic, this same things doesn't occur very often in the TT V-8 powered M5 with the same drive-train.

Lets put it this way, when you stand back at look at the big picture, tons of people began jumping on the bandwagon saying the ride quality was too harsh. But I never experienced any of that from day one. So when I hear others talk about it & discuss it in great length, I almost naturally tune it out. To prevent myself from the future headaches. If I took my X3 MC to the drag strip often or tracked in on a semi regular basis, then yes, I would be more prone to look into this solution. But for a well taken care of street machine, I would have to abuse my machine on a regular basis to actually benefit from this.

Hope you guys eventually figure a the best method for this & the one that's the least obtrusive. Each week another person has a new offering for this. So I've lost track of which one suits a daily driven street machine best. When you guys are done here please let me know what you have devised as a "simple" solution. There are way too many variables & "alternative solutions" in the mix right now that haven't been ironed out yet for me to consider investing my time into one of these.

This... But i'll add just one little thing. I've witnessed the bolt break at a local track a year ago and it's catastrophic in some cases, but it was at the track which offers much more traction then the street. I'll agree that the bolt is a weakness and i certainly am concerned to some level (as i bought and didn't install the Unicorn Egg and i bought and installed the VTT insert and was very dissatisfied with the NVH) but I agree with Kevin above that for us that aren't tracking much or at all and just driving on the street, is it necessary? I'll refer to BrockDm's build (not sure if he still owns?) who if i'm not mistaken ran his factory bolt and then some upgraded bolt into the 9's, so there's that. I'm going to run factory and the upgraded bolt he offered in his thread for now and just change frequently for the time being.

[joebie3]

Originally Posted by BlownLSX

Just find a ARP 625 1/2 stud that will fit. I believe they are 280,000 tensil strength.

Need to probably talk to ARP about the shear strength, because tensile doesn't mean much in terms of shear AFAIK.

[joebie3]

Originally Posted by Jnat

This... But i'll add just one little thing. I've witnessed the bolt break at a local track a year ago and it's catastrophic in some cases, but it was at the track which offers much more traction then the street. I'll agree that the bolt is a weakness and i certainly am concerned to some level (as i bought and didn't install the Unicorn Egg and i bought and installed the VTT insert and was very dissatisfied with the NVH) but I agree with Kevin above that for us that aren't tracking much or at all and just driving on the street, is it necessary? I'll refer to BrockDm's build (not sure if he still owns?) who if i'm not mistaken ran his factory bolt and then some upgraded bolt into the 9's, so there's that. I'm going to run factory and the upgraded bolt he offered in his thread for now and just change frequently for the time being.

Last I saw, Brock was running a Belmetric 14mm and he was replacing it rather 'frequently'.

[Jnat]

Originally Posted by joebie3

Last I saw, Brock was running a Belmetric 14mm and he was replacing it rather 'frequently'.

Exactly my point so for those of us that don't want diminished driveline noise behavior maybe this is the solution for now. With that said what about the idea of taking the Rennfix bushing and simply adding that to the OEM bushing/bolt for added bushing end strength and limit the movement that way? Maybe that type of minimal mod is a thought...

[knali8]

Originally Posted by Kevin_The_Clean1

I'm getting pretty lost too & this thread should come with a bag of free popcorn. It's funny that MaxWell has an X3 MC with 40k on the clock & 40-50 launches (conservative estimate) & yet his factory bolt was just fine / straight as an arrow. For me at this time, I'm not going to invest another minute or dollar into 1 of 10 different solutions. If this were really as bad as people say it is, there would have been a revised bushing & bolt assembly built by the M division at some point. It's also ironic, this same things doesn't occur very often in the TT V-8 powered M5 with the same drive-train.

Lets put it this way, when you stand back at look at the big picture, tons of people began jumping on the bandwagon saying the ride quality was too harsh. But I never experienced any of that from day one. So when I hear others talk about it & discuss it in great length, I almost naturally tune it out. To prevent myself from the future headaches. If I took my X3 MC to the drag strip often or tracked in on a semi regular basis, then yes, I would be more prone to look into this solution. But for a well taken care of street machine, I would have to abuse my machine on a regular basis to actually benefit from this.

Hope you guys eventually figure a the best method for this & the one that's the least obtrusive. Each week another person has a new offering for this. So I've lost track of which one suits a daily driven street machine best. When you guys are done here please let me know what you have devised as a "simple" solution. There are way too many variables & "alternative solutions" in the mix right now that haven't been ironed out yet for me to consider investing my time into one of these.

Interesting.. I wonder if it's the same bolt as the one on the M5..

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by knali8

Interesting.. I wonder if it's the same bolt as the one on the M5..

Well, it's a different bolt because it's a different part number. However, is it really a different bolt from a materials point of view?

[95wildtt]

Originally Posted by Jnat

This... But i'll add just one little thing. I've witnessed the bolt break at a local track a year ago and it's catastrophic in some cases, but it was at the track which offers much more traction then the street.

It may be designed to break before something else even more catastrophic would happen... just sayin'

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by 95wildtt

It may be designed to break before something else even more catastrophic would happen... just sayin'

Based on the few reports here, when the bolt goes it takes the diff and shaft along with it. I think I read somewhere that the bill was closing in on 5K to fix.

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by Jnat

Exactly my point so for those of us that don't want diminished driveline noise behavior maybe this is the solution for now. With that said what about the idea of taking the Rennfix bushing and simply adding that to the OEM bushing/bolt for added bushing end strength and limit the movement that way? Maybe that type of minimal mod is a thought...

Been emailing Clint back and forth and his solution is adding the extra collar and replacing the sleeve in the OE bushing while retaining the OE bolt. He stated that "You do not need to replace the oem bushing unless it is damaged"


The slack is addressed by his ticker inner sleeve and the collar. I think this will have zero NVH transmission thru the chassis since the oe bushing and play is MINIMIZED but still present thereby absorbing OE NVH.


I like Ryan's approach as he addresses the issue by using a new, stronger bolt as well as replacing the sleeve, while also retaining the OEM bushing. Plus his solution is cheaper and tested by @Bimma360

[Jnat]

Originally Posted by TacosRule!

Been emailing Clint back and forth and his solution is adding the extra collar and replacing the sleeve in the OE bushing while retaining the OE bolt. He stated that "You do not need to replace the oem bushing unless it is damaged"


The slack is addressed by his ticker inner sleeve and the collar. I think this will have zero NVH transmission thru the chassis since the oe bushing and play is MINIMIZED but still present thereby absorbing OE NVH.


I like Ryan's approach as he addresses the issue by using a new, stronger bolt as well as replacing the sleeve, while also retaining the OEM bushing. Plus his solution is cheaper and tested by @Bimma360

I hate to do it because i've already purchased two but Clint's is looking promising (Ryans is also in the same ball park)

[95wildtt]

Originally Posted by TacosRule!

Based on the few reports here, when the bolt goes it takes the diff and shaft along with it. I think I read somewhere that the bill was closing in on 5K to fix.

That's major no doubt, but potentially "less major" than a TXFR Case and/or Tranny...
Just a thought, but I'm probably wrong.

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by 95wildtt

That's major no doubt, but potentially "less major" than a TXFR Case and/or Tranny...
Just a thought, but I'm probably wrong.

No, its a valid argument. I'd like to hear from the couple of guys that have reported this failure.

[knali8]

Found a video online Chris Six installing the diff bolt if anyone's interested. Looks like Ryan's Kit

Edit: @ 1:47

[M4Lou]

Originally Posted by knali8

Found a video online Chris Six installing the diff bolt if anyone's interested. Looks like Ryan's Kit

Edit: @ 1:47

Nice find. Old bolt end was corroded. Interesting that they did NOT show us the condition of the bolt.

[joebie3]

Kind of amazing they didn't just replace the whole bushing and put the insert into that since it's a known high mileage car.

[knali8]

I do wish they elaborated more on the whole process plus show the condition of the bolt, as this was the first I had seen of how the bolt is positioned on the x3m as a whole.

[Diskz]

Originally Posted by knali8

Found a video online Chris Six installing the diff bolt if anyone's interested. Looks like Ryan's Kit

Edit: @ 1:47

https://youtu.be/I2CsvsotYXE?si=XgORF0Ae2wGNIL9A

Thanks for sharing. Seems like it’s the FJ Motorwerks kit

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by Diskz

Thanks for sharing. Seems like it’s the FJ Motorwerks kit

It is FJ's, they sent me the link to the video in one of our multiple emails.

[Y0jjimb0]

Originally Posted by TacosRule!

Been emailing Clint back and forth and his solution is adding the extra collar and replacing the sleeve in the OE bushing while retaining the OE bolt. He stated that "You do not need to replace the oem bushing unless it is damaged"


The slack is addressed by his ticker inner sleeve and the collar. I think this will have zero NVH transmission thru the chassis since the oe bushing and play is MINIMIZED but still present thereby absorbing OE NVH.


I like Ryan's approach as he addresses the issue by using a new, stronger bolt as well as replacing the sleeve, while also retaining the OEM bushing. Plus his solution is cheaper and tested by @Bimma360

Is Clint on here?

He had the Einhorn bushing installed as his first fix for this correct? I'd love to get his opinion directly about potential driveshaft clunk after the einhorn install, and whether the loctite fix would address that or not.

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by Y0jjimb0

Is Clint on here?

He had the Einhorn bushing installed as his first fix for this correct? I'd love to get his opinion directly about potential driveshaft clunk after the einhorn install, and whether the loctite fix would address that or not.

Email him and ask
porschetaillight@gmail.com

His email address is on his webpage. And share his reply, I'm curious to hear his feedback. I think he addresses some of these questions in his emails??? I know he has one explaining the shaft clicking

I want to say again that my initial decision to buy einhorn was based on his "best solution period" video that has been posted here before. Then come to learn of real-world issues with NVH from all y'all guys and decided to look for alternatives.