[OhThatGuyJax]

Originally Posted by zmuff

I liked the group buy so well that I bought a set for my G30. Ordered on Aug 11 and received them on Oct 12. I was able to track all of the progress except for when they got on the boat, never could figure that part out. Best of all they weren't made in Garmany.

Great looking wheel! Are they light?

[zmuff]

Originally Posted by Beemertechnik

what did they charge you for the 2-piece set ?

They were right at $1300.00 shipped, they are one-piece though...clever painting and hardware. I was assured that these could be made to look very similar to HRE S101's and I think they got pretty close. They didn't quote me a price for two-piece but said they would be considerably higher.

[zmuff]

Originally Posted by OhThatGuyJax

Great looking wheel! Are they light?

On the specs they said 12KG, the 664M wheels on my 5 series weigh 13KG so there's a little bit of difference

[Beemertechnik]

Originally Posted by zmuff

They were right at $1300.00 shipped, they are one-piece though...clever painting and hardware. I was assured that these could be made to look very similar to HRE S101's and I think they got pretty close. They didn't quote me a price for two-piece but said they would be considerably higher.

wow, they really do look like a two piece wheel!

looks great! be sure to post some pics of it installed on the car.

i’ve been in between deciding what wheels i actually want. i’ve looked at a few HRE 2 piece set ups and im also interested in the 827M bead locks design. but now with winter nearing i think i’ll hold off all together until spring

[arhoads335i]

Can anyone comment on if these are lighter than OEM rims. I’d like to justify buying a set if it helps performance in some way.
If they are truly forged they should be like 4lb lighter each

[tharaka]

Do they do a 1063M?

[JasonSlyh]

I’ve gone through all the posts, and it looks like both 20x9.5 ET25 and 20x10 ET25 can work for a square setup. However, it seems that the 20x10 option still carries a higher risk of rubbing against the fenders or springs — is that correct? Can someone confirm this? Thanks.

[zmuff]

Originally Posted by JasonSlyh

I’ve gone through all the posts, and it looks like both 20x9.5 ET25 and 20x10 ET25 can work for a square setup. However, it seems that the 20x10 option still carries a higher risk of rubbing against the fenders or springs — is that correct? Can someone confirm this? Thanks.

I have 20x10 ET25 square setup with 275/40 tires and have no rubbing issues whatsoever. Plus it's lowered on H&R springs.

[deviation01]

Originally Posted by JasonSlyh

I’ve gone through all the posts, and it looks like both 20x9.5 ET25 and 20x10 ET25 can work for a square setup. However, it seems that the 20x10 option still carries a higher risk of rubbing against the fenders or springs — is that correct? Can someone confirm this? Thanks.

Stock suspension setup no issues for 20x10 ET25 if you lower the car on coils you will need 10mm spacer up front otherwise you will rub on the coil setup. With that said 20x10 ET25 is a really good 101% track ration front to rear.

If you want best setup for the track or autocross you are looking at:
front 20x10 et16~18
rear 20x10 et35
or
19x10 et28 in 285/35/19.

[RandomStogies]

Originally Posted by arhoads335i

Can anyone comment on if these are lighter than OEM rims. I’d like to justify buying a set if it helps performance in some way.
If they are truly forged they should be like 4lb lighter each

M40i has 3 different OEM radial sizes (19", 20", 21") and at least several OEM designs available for each size.
The forged versions also could be of a different size and design. All these factors will impact the difference in weight. However, the difference will be there.
Example: BMW 21" 716m rim is about 36.4 pounds, while 20" forged BBS FI-R design would be close to 11-12 kg. Along with a 275/45 tire, the entire wheel weight difference will be in the range of 16-18 pounds per conner.

[JasonSlyh]

Originally Posted by deviation01

Stock suspension setup no issues for 20x10 ET25 if you lower the car on coils you will need 10mm spacer up front otherwise you will rub on the coil setup. With that said 20x10 ET25 is a really good 101% track ration front to rear.

If you want best setup for the track or autocross you are looking at:
front 20x10 et16~18
rear 20x10 et35
or
19x10 et28 in 285/35/19.

Appreciate the quick response! I’m about to pull the trigger on a set from XYwheels. I’m not lowering the car or adding spacers — do you think 20x10 ET16–18 front and 20x10 ET35 rear would work fine?
Or would it be safer to just go with 20x9.5 ET25 and 275/40R20s?
I’m currently on 19” OEM wheels and just trying to lose that chunky tire look.
Also, what tire sizes would you recommend for the 20x10 ET16–18 front and 20x10 ET35 rear setup?

[JasonSlyh]

Originally Posted by akgambino

Mine are 20x10 no rub.

Have you noticed any rubbing when you make a U turn/full lock or maybe with full load on your car? Thanks.

[akgambino]

Originally Posted by JasonSlyh

Have you noticed any rubbing when you make a U turn/full lock or maybe with full load on your car? Thanks.

No. It is unreal how many people keep asking the same questions about this wheel fitment lol

[JasonSlyh]

Originally Posted by akgambino

No. It is unreal how many people keep asking the same questions about this wheel fitment lol

Yeah, I think the confusion comes from someone in this thread mentioning that the 20x10 ET25 setup rubbed a bit, especially on uneven or rolling roads, while others said they had no rubbing at all. I’m honestly not sure what to believe — even ChatGPT says 20x10 might be a bit risky and could need spacers for enough clearance around the springs.

[Steelers6891]

Originally Posted by akgambino

No. It is unreal how many people keep asking the same questions about this wheel fitment lol

🤣🤣🤣🤣

[deviation01]

Originally Posted by JasonSlyh

Appreciate the quick response! I’m about to pull the trigger on a set from XYwheels. I’m not lowering the car or adding spacers — do you think 20x10 ET16–18 front and 20x10 ET35 rear would work fine?
Or would it be safer to just go with 20x9.5 ET25 and 275/40R20s?
I’m currently on 19” OEM wheels and just trying to lose that chunky tire look.
Also, what tire sizes would you recommend for the 20x10 ET16–18 front and 20x10 ET35 rear setup?

I think you cant go wrong with 9.5 or 10 ET25. Tire I would keep it at 275 or 285 squared in order to rotate unless you have a good budget to replace tires

This is what my plan is for my car.

[zmuff]

Originally Posted by Beemertechnik

wow, they really do look like a two piece wheel!

looks great! be sure to post some pics of it installed on the car.

i’ve been in between deciding what wheels i actually want. i’ve looked at a few HRE 2 piece set ups and im also interested in the 827M bead locks design. but now with winter nearing i think i’ll hold off all together until spring

Finally got them installed! I'm pretty sure I'm done buying wheels and tires for quite awhile.

[deviation01]

Originally Posted by zmuff

Finally got them installed! I'm pretty sure I'm done buying wheels and tires for quite awhile.

They look great!

[SteveYem]

Originally Posted by Steelers6891

Just received my rendered drawings of my wheels. I felt they looked darker than OEM but he said the OEM finish has a “transparent gray” I’m assuming it’s like gunmetal. Besides them being on a holiday Jason has been very responsive

Those look great. Loving the concavity of the face profile.

[Khoury95]

Anybody do the 21” staggered 892M style wheels? I couldn’t find anything on this thread

[JasonSlyh]

I finally got the wheel specs from Jason — 20x9.5 ET23. Color will be dark gunmetal, he haven’t changed it in the rendering. I suppose it’s not much different from ET25, but Jason mentioned ET23 should sit a bit more flush with the fender, since ET25 still leaves a small gap.

Also, has anyone looked into the potential downsides of increasing track width, like extra wheel bearing wear, additional stress on suspension arms, or increased load on the axle shafts? Or are these changes actually pretty minor and nothing to worry about in real-world driving?

[D335NUTZ]

Originally Posted by JasonSlyh

I finally got the wheel specs from Jason — 20x9.5 ET23. Color will be dark gunmetal, he haven’t changed it in the rendering. I suppose it’s not much different from ET25, but Jason mentioned ET23 should sit a bit more flush with the fender, since ET25 still leaves a small gap.

Also, has anyone looked into the potential downsides of increasing track width, like extra wheel bearing wear, additional stress on suspension arms, or increased load on the axle shafts? Or are these changes actually pretty minor and nothing to worry about in real-world driving?

I'm at 19x9.5 ET 22 with my set with 275 wide tires and it's pretty flush in the rear but still a little tucked up front but not that much, maybe a 5mm difference.