r33_RGSport wrote

Bmock17 wrote

arciga18 wrote

Bmock17 wrote

SROC3 wrote

So an update.....after driving around for a day, the wheels actually set into a bit of a negative camber. It's visually apparent too. Felt it while driving. Sliiiightly better handling I think that since the wheels were farther out they eventually settled inwards more

Did you use longer lugs when you installed yours? I just ordered the H&R spacers and i cannot tell if they include the longer lugs or if i have to buy those separately.

Typically sold separately.

Where did you order from

I bought them on amazon. They are the H&R spacers.

Lug bolts are sold separately from H&R.
I always got initial complaint that the price I quoted is high, until they got their order from somewhere else and found that there is no lug bolts.

r33_RGSport wrote

Bmock17 wrote

arciga18 wrote

Bmock17 wrote

SROC3 wrote

So an update.....after driving around for a day, the wheels actually set into a bit of a negative camber. It's visually apparent too. Felt it while driving. Sliiiightly better handling I think that since the wheels were farther out they eventually settled inwards more

Did you use longer lugs when you installed yours? I just ordered the H&R spacers and i cannot tell if they include the longer lugs or if i have to buy those separately.

Typically sold separately.

Where did you order from

I bought them on amazon. They are the H&R spacers.

Lug bolts are sold separately from H&R.
I always got initial complaint that the price I quoted is high, until they got their order from somewhere else and found that there is no lug bolts.

I ordered them on amazon because I got them in 2 days, it had nothing to do with the price. In fact, I didn't even look anywhere else so I might have overpaid buying them through Amazon. That whole inpatient thing. I got them the other day and now realize I need longer bolts; why wouldn't that be the case? So I will need 20 of them, shipped to 60175. Can you give me a price please? Also, how long would it take to get them?

Bmock17 wrote

I ordered them on amazon because I got them in 2 days, it had nothing to do with the price. In fact, I didn't even look anywhere else so I might have overpaid buying them through Amazon. That whole inpatient thing. I got them the other day and now realize I need longer bolts; why wouldn't that be the case? So I will need 20 of them, shipped to 60175. Can you give me a price please? Also, how long would it take to get them?

I'll PM you in a bit.

arciga18 wrote

Yes the 15mm on all 4 corners really helps.

I still want that yellow fog light film.




Also get rid of those front orange reflectors

And the yellow lights

Benandluna wrote

And the yellow lights

The yellow light film is amazing you have to see it in person. It's an $18 option to try. Really looks good and increases visibility quite well

SROC3 wrote

The yellow light film is amazing you have to see it in person. It's an $18 option to try. Really looks good and increases visibility quite well

Worth noting for sure. Many times pics don’t show justice. It just looks odd to me in pics. I wonder how it would look on alpine white.

Well due to this and other posts, I have now caved and ordered 15mm Eibach spacers! I tried really hard to resist, but you guys just beat me down!

its interesting how even same country, same vehicles can come with different parts.

your 30i m sport came with Bridgestone tires.

my 30i m sport came with Pirelli tires.

Love the look of your car btw

**

just realized. don't think you're from Canada. Haha...

teaston wrote

Well due to this and other posts, I have now caved and ordered 15mm Eibach spacers! I tried really hard to resist, but you guys just beat me down!

OMG.......You WON'T stop looking at your car after you park and walk away. Pictures DO NOT do it justice. After you install and drive for a couple of miles, the car settles and you get a little bit of negative camber - that you can actually feel. The steering is a little bit less twitchy. You'll also see that the fronts can actually have 18mm spacers to make them completely flush with the fender arches. But I like that taaad bit of space....looks clutch

So I got the longer bolts I need today from RG Sport and am now having a hell of time trying to find a shop to install them. I am in the Chicagoland burbs and have called every tire shop around and none of them will touch them. I tried calling a couple of independent shops and they said they will do it, but can't get me in until the end of next week.

Will the service department at a bmw dealer install these or is that a no go too? I can't do it myself because I don't have the proper torque wrench to do it correctly. Any ideas??

Bmock17 wrote

So I got the longer bolts I need today from RG Sport and am now having a hell of time trying to find a shop to install them. I am in the Chicagoland burbs and have called every tire shop around and none of them will touch them. I tried calling a couple of independent shops and they said they will do it, but can't get me in until the end of next week.

Will the service department at a bmw dealer install these or is that a no go too? I can't do it myself because I don't have the proper torque wrench to do it correctly. Any ideas??

NO don't ask the dealer for sure. They're not hard to install. If you have a car jack or know of a local car shop that has a lift then go there. Just make sure that when you put them on the surfaces are completely clean. this is very IMPT. and TQ them to 110LB feet of TQ on the TQ Wrench

Bmock17 wrote

I can't do it myself because I don't have the proper torque wrench to do it correctly. Any ideas??

Buy a torque wrench for $25-40, they are very common tools.

skier219 wrote

Buy a torque wrench for $25-40, they are very common tools.

And DON'T get a small one.....get the biggest one you can find. It gives you more leverage when tourque-ing it down

SROC3 wrote

skier219 wrote

Buy a torque wrench for $25-40, they are very common tools.

And DON'T get a small one.....get the biggest one you can find. It gives you more leverage when tourque-ing it down

skier219 wrote

Bmock17 wrote

I can't do it myself because I don't have the proper torque wrench to do it correctly. Any ideas??

Buy a torque wrench for $25-40, they are very common tools.

I really never even looked into the cost of one. This seems like a no brainer then. Thanks for the info.

Bmock17 wrote

I really never even looked into the cost of one. This seems like a no brainer then. Thanks for the info.

Even if you get a jack - make sure you get a "jack stand" to rest the car on. #safety

SROC3 wrote

Bmock17 wrote

I really never even looked into the cost of one. This seems like a no brainer then. Thanks for the info.

Even if you get a jack - make sure you get a "jack stand" to rest the car on. #safety

I've got the jack and the stands but really had no idea about the torque wrench. For $40 and maybe an hour or two of my time, I might as well give it a shot. Even if I screw it up, it's not like the wheels and tires are an important part.

Bmock17 wrote

SROC3 wrote

Bmock17 wrote

I really never even looked into the cost of one. This seems like a no brainer then. Thanks for the info.

Even if you get a jack - make sure you get a "jack stand" to rest the car on. #safety

I've got the jack and the stands but really had no idea about the torque wrench. For $40 and maybe an hour or two of my time, I might as well give it a shot. Even if I screw it up, it's not like the wheels and tires are an important part.

Make sure you get anti-seize also, otherwise that spacer will stuck good after some weathering and oxidation.
Spacers that bought from me, I includes a packet of anti-seize grease packet per pair of spacer.

r33_RGSport wrote

Make sure you get anti-seize also, otherwise that spacer will stuck good after some weathering and oxidation.
Spacers that bought from me, I includes a packet of anti-seize grease packet per pair of spacer.

Might be a stupid question, but why would you use anti-seize on the spacer?

r33_RGSport wrote

Bmock17 wrote

SROC3 wrote

Bmock17 wrote

I really never even looked into the cost of one. This seems like a no brainer then. Thanks for the info.

Even if you get a jack - make sure you get a "jack stand" to rest the car on. #safety

I've got the jack and the stands but really had no idea about the torque wrench. For $40 and maybe an hour or two of my time, I might as well give it a shot. Even if I screw it up, it's not like the wheels and tires are an important part.

Make sure you get anti-seize also, otherwise that spacer will stuck good after some weathering and oxidation.
Spacers that bought from me, I includes a packet of anti-seize grease packet per pair of spacer.

I don't use anti seize, I find it much easier for changing wheels with the spacers staying put, then when I sell the car they only need a few taps with a hammer and chisel to get them off.

Rhidium wrote

r33_RGSport wrote

Make sure you get anti-seize also, otherwise that spacer will stuck good after some weathering and oxidation.
Spacers that bought from me, I includes a packet of anti-seize grease packet per pair of spacer.

Might be a stupid question, but why would you use anti-seize on the spacer?

Aluminum oxidized and steel hub rusts.
Those combined with road salts, spacer will seized to the hub and you'll have a hard time taking them off when you need too.

teaston wrote

r33_RGSport wrote

Bmock17 wrote

SROC3 wrote

Bmock17 wrote

I really never even looked into the cost of one. This seems like a no brainer then. Thanks for the info.

Even if you get a jack - make sure you get a "jack stand" to rest the car on. #safety

I've got the jack and the stands but really had no idea about the torque wrench. For $40 and maybe an hour or two of my time, I might as well give it a shot. Even if I screw it up, it's not like the wheels and tires are an important part.

Make sure you get anti-seize also, otherwise that spacer will stuck good after some weathering and oxidation.
Spacers that bought from me, I includes a packet of anti-seize grease packet per pair of spacer.

I don't use anti seize, I find it much easier for changing wheels with the spacers staying put, then when I sell the car they only need a few taps with a hammer and chisel to get them off.

Good to hear that you like to replace spacers when you change to a new car.

You will need to take the spacer out to do brake rotor replacement.

r33_RGSport wrote

Aluminum oxidized and steel hub rusts.
Those combined with road salts, spacer will seized to the hub and you'll have a hard time taking them off when you need too.



Good to hear that you like to replace spacers when you change to a new car.

You will need to take the spacer out to do brake rotor replacement.

No, they came off undamaged, just a few light taps is all they need, maybe different on older cars or lesser models with iron brake disc hubs?

Can we get more photos especially showing the car from a slight distance😊😊😊?

Absolutely use anti-seize, and doesn't need to be a lot. Aluminum and steel will not play nice together over the long haul. Even if you can get the spacers off, you'll end up with corrosion on both parts that can affect the fit. It's especially sensitive around the center hub lip where the fit is critical to avoid balance issues.

After posting about torque wrenches last night I realized I should have given a recommendation. Amazon sells Tekton brand torque wrenches that are very good quality/accuracy and reasonable cost. For automotive use on wheel lugs, an 18" is the best bet, and these generally cover up to about 150 ft-lb:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/

That size will give plenty of leverage but not be too long (length can be a problem if you can't rotate it around without hitting fender/ground/etc). I'd suggest also getting a short 1/2" extension for the socket and/or use a deep socket (which should be hardened if possible). You always want to get the wrench out away from the wheels and fenders. Seen too many knuckleheads whack their fenders because they didn't have an extension.

For large trucks and tractors you can move up to a 24-26" model that will go up to 250 ft-lb. These are generally too unwieldy for cars, plus you are giving up accuracy to go to the higher rating:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL1NS/