12-29-2018, 02:20 PM | #23 |
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Seems like the best option for neutralizing the balance would be to use the non-sport (225A) front bar with the sport (226A) rear bar. From there, use whatever springs you prefer with shocks and mounts designed for use with 226A. We'll never "correct" the feel of the electronic steering rack, but that combo with non-run-flat tires would make the F25 a pretty capable machine (it already is!)
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01-01-2019, 01:24 AM | #24 |
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It was a surprise with a front B6 shock for me because it comes with built-in bump stop and dust over. No need to use original parts.
The original is much more smaller than built-in as you can see. On the photo I put original dust cover with bump stop (front and rear) and front B6 shock. |
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01-22-2019, 07:02 AM | #26 |
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I had two very busy weeks and no chance to spend a time for my car. Finally I got all parts necessary to upgrade the front and rear suspension. Going to replace front/rear sway bars and shocks next weekend.
I need your advices with a grease usage. FCP recommend to use grease for E83 body (). A front sway bar have glued built-in rubber mounts for F25 body. Is it necessary to use a grease on a front sway bar in between of rubber mount and stub support? What about grease for rear sway bar? |
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01-22-2019, 09:59 AM | #27 | |
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01-22-2019, 05:45 PM | #28 | |
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Also I do not need to drop FRONT subframe based on ISTA but it says coolant have to be drained. Will check if this really necessary to remove front sway bar. I will post a complete parts list and photo in this thread. It looks like silicon spray will be better for a sway bar rubber mount. |
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01-22-2019, 09:23 PM | #29 | |
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01-23-2019, 01:18 AM | #30 |
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Ordered a lot of parts that have to be changed for f25 (n55) body based on ISTA...
For the front stab: Stab mount - 07 11 9 907 082 - 4 pcs Stab link mount - 37 10 6 789 678 - 4 pcs (2 pcs only for stab replacement) For the front shocks: Shock mount lower - 07 11 9 906 982 - 2 pcs Shock mount lower - 37 10 6 789 678 - 2 pcs Strut mount - 31 30 6 851 799 - 6 pcs Guide support - 31 30 6 852 158 - 2 pcs Spring pad upper - 31 33 6 787 114 - 2 pcs (change if it damaged only) Spring pad lower - 31 33 6 860 788- 2 pcs (change if it damaged only) For the rear stab: Stab mount - 33 32 6 768 884 - 2 pcs Stab mount - 33 55 6 790 958 - 4 pcs Stab mount rubber - 33 55 6 788 058 - 2 pcs For the rear shocks: Shock mount lower - 07 11 9 906 495 - 2 pcs Shock mount lower - 33 32 6 794 873 - 2 pcs Strut mount - 33506792574 - 6 pcs Guide support - 33506787178 - 2 pcs Spring pad lower - 33536856172 - 2 pcs (change if it damaged only) Spring pad upper - 31336798834 - 2 pcs (change if it damaged only) |
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01-23-2019, 01:30 AM | #31 |
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I bought used sway bars so decided to bring them new look.
All rust removed, coated with epoxy primer and left for one week. Next layer was black gloss paint. After this all parts covered with transparent corrosion resist non-sticky film. Here are photos how it looks now. |
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01-29-2019, 02:57 AM | #32 |
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Hello there.
Unfortunately I can show you any progress with sway bar replacement. I completely stuck with the bolt that hold spring strut from a lower side... I was tried to remove it during two weekend days and have no luck to move it even with bolt extruder tool and a hammer. There is a place where all dirt from the road will got to this bolt easily. Number 3 on the diagram. Going to completely remove wheel carrier this week and drill out this bolt. |
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02-01-2019, 03:53 AM | #33 |
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Front sway bar replaced from standard to sport variant.
It's absolutely necessary to remove coolant fan and FMIC. You have to drain coolant and remove two hoses - one from left and other from right side. Measured both sway bar on two points again. |
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02-01-2019, 04:08 AM | #34 |
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There are not a lot of space to remove hexagon screw with flange (13 socket) from the sway bar support, especially from the back side. I could use my smallest wrench with 1/4 driver only.
It stucks between the frame and the sway bar support and you do not have a room from the upper side - here are car body again( |
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02-01-2019, 11:35 AM | #35 | |
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02-01-2019, 01:13 PM | #36 |
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02-01-2019, 03:02 PM | #37 |
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So it appears the sport front bar really is only .8mm thicker than the standard - hardly seems worth the considerable installation effort. At the same time, knowing the sport rear bar is a full 2.0mm thicker than standard, that DOES seem like it could be worthwhile.
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02-07-2019, 04:45 AM | #38 |
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Unfortunately, there is no easy way to change rear sway bar(
You have to remove: - complete exhaust system; - underbody heat shields; - complete propeller shaft; - both rear brake-caliper supports with break pads; - both rear spring struts with camber links; This was done last weekend. After this you have to lower rear axle support... |
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02-07-2019, 08:10 AM | #40 | |
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02-07-2019, 08:52 AM | #41 | ||
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All this to say... see if there is a weep hole and to see if you can flush the crap out. Yeah, on the F25/F26 and probably others you have to drop the entire rear subframe but until seeing HDBoss' pictures, I didn't realize just how painful it is! Last edited by omasou; 02-07-2019 at 09:04 AM.. |
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02-07-2019, 10:03 AM | #42 | |
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02-09-2019, 12:06 AM | #43 | |
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Here are bolt photos that I made when replacing front spring struts. Plus photos with fixed problem and a new bolt) |
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