07-03-2011, 10:19 AM | #133 |
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Looks fantastic. Great effort. Seems a shame to drive it now!
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F25 xDrive20d SE __ professional multimedia package | dynamic package | climate package | 309s | xline | xenons | electric seats | folding mirrors | business speakers |
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07-03-2011, 11:11 AM | #135 |
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is this the stuff you guys use to clean the dash, door panels etc? http://www.autogeek.net/1z-einzett-cockpit-premium.html |
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07-03-2011, 11:18 AM | #136 | |
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AW/BLK leather 35i | premium | tech | sports pkgs | 19" 309 wheels
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07-03-2011, 02:15 PM | #137 |
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07-03-2011, 05:45 PM | #138 |
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Nothing like detailing your car to bring needed rain. Small storms swirling by. Might be reason to actually go out for a drive and enjoy the water beading up and running off the car!! Lots of the 4th of July fireworks are tonight. Hoping folks don't get soaked!
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07-03-2011, 05:54 PM | #139 |
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I'm still kinda confused on what to use where on the interior. We have the textured section over the dash, the hard plastic on the dashboard, the clear plastic over the dials, the nav screen, the trim (wood, aluminum), the "cheap hard plastic" on the doors, the glove box (which is that?), vents, interior glass, and of course the leather. I'm sure I missed several things, but those are the mains ones I can think of cleaning/dusting/wiping.
For me, I don't like anything that "shines up" the interior or makes it the slightest bit greasy. Very much like the matte, natural, dry appearance. Would like to keep it in good condition, UV protected, and dust resistant if at all possible. Ah crap, the carpeted sections. What about some kind of 3M carpet protector? So far I've used Stoner's glass cleaner on the interior windows and the production slime is just about gone. Other than that, I haven't done anything but dust a bit. I have Zaino leather products I used successfully on my 330i, but am a bit hesitant because of the stitching. Okay, and what about the engine area? Anyone used any cleaners/protectors there? Many of the components appear to be made of the same materials our other detailing products say they're intended to protect? Can we increase durability of stuff in there? So far I've only applied Zaino Z-2 to painted things.
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07-03-2011, 06:59 PM | #140 | |
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I use Stoner's also, but still haven't hit the perfect clear window stage. I've used two different leather conditioners/cleaner. I've had no problems with the stitching and I have black leather/ white stitching. Added: Nav screen, microfiber cloth with a little distilled water on it. Last edited by Radioactive; 07-03-2011 at 07:12 PM.. |
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07-03-2011, 07:51 PM | #141 |
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Yeah, the interior is certainly a mix of materials and textures. There is no one cleaner or method for it all, but I only use a few. I use 303 Aerospace Protectant for the vinyl and solid (opposed to clear) plastics. It gives a satin type finish, not a "greasy, glossy" look which I also hate. It also has terrific UV protection to keep the dash and upper door panels safe from drying, fading, cracking, and warping.
For the leather, I generally use a Meguire's leather cleaner/conditioner. It's a spray-on, wipe-off type. If that is used regularly there is little need for a stronger cleaner. This includes the leather on the steering wheel. It also leaves a nice finish and no greasy look or feel. Has a pleasant scent as well, but not overpowering. For the clear plastic parts (gauge cover, iDrive screen, etc.) I use Plexus. But most often I simply wipe gently with a soft microfiber to remove dust. I have Griot's Garage Interior Cleaner that is generally good for almost any interior surface, and I'll use that for the console, wood, interior metal, dash controls, etc. Just a spritz on a micro fiber cloth and gentle wiping. Here's a tip for getting the dust out of your A/C vents and other crevices.... use a soft bristled paint brush (one that has never been used for painting of course). A natural hair variety is better than an artificial bristle such as nylon, as there is no danger it can scratch anything. Interior glass gets Windex, just like the house. Exterior glass does not. Windex on the exterior of your glass will cause it to streak and splotch.
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07-03-2011, 08:00 PM | #143 | |
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However, I did test and I did such an amazing job on the X5 that water will not touch it. It just beads into droplets and hovers about 1" above the surface.
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07-03-2011, 08:33 PM | #144 |
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Drives: 2011 X3 xDrive 28i
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Any recommendation for beige leatherette?
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07-03-2011, 10:02 PM | #145 |
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A general cleaner would be best. I use the Griot's Garage Interior Cleaner for similar materials, but I'm sure there are others. You would want something that doesn't leave a greasy film of any kind, but also one that does not dry out the material by robbing moisture. If you don't have any really bad dirt, try just a clean damp cloth. If using another product, test it on an inconspicuous area first, just to be sure.
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07-04-2011, 09:46 AM | #147 |
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Ah, take it out and enjoy the shine! If you're like me, it's just gonna start getting dirty tomorrow on the way to work anyway.
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07-04-2011, 09:52 AM | #148 |
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I know exactly how you feel. I go through that almost every week. The odds of it raining on Monday are about 99% after I've got the cars all nice and clean.
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07-04-2011, 03:21 PM | #149 |
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I’ve got a question for our master detailers…
It seems like Dawn dish washing liquid is good for stripping the old wax off the car. Are other brands just as good, or should I go out and get a bottle of Dawn. |
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07-04-2011, 04:41 PM | #150 | |
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Dawn isn't the only stripper. There is Crystal, Bambi, and Diamond.... oh, you mean for wax. Okay. Dawn is particularly good because has such good grease cutters. Waxes, polymers and the like are very similar to grease from a chemical point of view. There are many others that will also do the job, just look for the "gets the grease out" type of liquids. But avoid anything too harsh as it might harm the paint itself. When I was younger, before people were making "car wash soap", I used to use Johnson's Baby Shampoo because it was mild and didn't remove the wax. Plus, if you got some in the headlights, it didn't cry. If you need to remove wax from just a certain area, say the hood... you can use this: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/11135.do You'll know you've gotten the job done when you do a rinse with a flow of water and it does not bead at all. The paint will feel "grippy" and "squeaky" to your bare hand. Take the brand of dish soap you're using now and do a small test area - then you'll know.
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07-04-2011, 05:50 PM | #151 | |
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07-04-2011, 07:01 PM | #152 |
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Partially agree. But you'll be making the polish work that much harder by going through layer(s) of sealant or wax before it gets to the top coat. And most polishes break down as they are used, so the effectiveness is reduced. I like to start with bare paint, preferably clayed first to remove contaminents that a wash doesn't get.
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