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      03-02-2020, 04:16 PM   #23
MattXYZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nb67 View Post
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Originally Posted by MattXYZ View Post
Interesting... you need separate power for the rear cam?

On my thinkware, the usb cable connects and powers from the main front cam to the rear cam.
Sorry for the confusion Matt.

It's a seperate dash cam altogether, an old Transcend that's never let me down in 4yrs.

We have a Nextbase up front and I'll be hard wiring the Transcend into the rear, possibly into fuse 207 in the rear by the sounds of it.
I see. Challenge you might have is if you want it to switch on when the car is switched on.
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      11-13-2020, 06:28 PM   #24
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Thanks to this thread I was easily able to install a 2 channel set up for my mother's X3. Was much easier and quicker than I expected, I spent more time wiring the same kit in a GTI...
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      11-15-2020, 08:10 AM   #25
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Which fuse bypass should I get?
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      11-15-2020, 08:23 AM   #26
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I believe it's the ATC, but to be sure you could just pull out the fuse (that you're going to be piggybacking) to compare.
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      12-27-2020, 04:45 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
Good write up.

I hardwired my dashcam today, not sure about your paperclip ground connection though? I used a ring crimp onto this nut:
Thanks for the sharing this good stuff. I was stuck at the stage to remove the cover panel of D pillar. Any idea how to remove it? thanks in advance.
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      12-27-2020, 05:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javengogogo View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
Good write up.

I hardwired my dashcam today, not sure about your paperclip ground connection though? I used a ring crimp onto this nut:
Thanks for the sharing this good stuff. I was stuck at the stage to remove the cover panel of D pillar. Any idea how to remove it? thanks in advance.
They just pop off. They're held on by simple popper type fasteners. Just pry gently from the top edge with a flat plastic pry tool and they will pop off.
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      12-28-2020, 12:27 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by MattXYZ View Post
They just pop off. They're held on by simple popper type fasteners. Just pry gently from the top edge with a flat plastic pry tool and they will pop off.
thank you so much, the cover is able to be removed a bit for cable wiring. However meeting the new issue now. the rear camera cable seems stuck the boot lid close. with the boot lid hinge plastic cover, the lid will be stuck in the last few inches before fully close. Without the hinge plastic cover, it can be opened and closed. Still try to figure out what's going on.
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      12-28-2020, 12:49 PM   #30
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Hmmm... not sure. The cable should be relatively loose when tucked behind the hinge. The cable should run from the rear hatch trim panel trim and loosely through behind the trim and into the roof lining.
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      01-03-2021, 05:57 PM   #31
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Thanks heaps @mattxyz for the post. Two years on since post was written, this is still very useful.

I'm in Australia and we have Navman brand here. I'm using MiVue 1100 2CH(full HD with 60fps) with their smart box III(direct power adapter ).

https://www.jbhifi.com.au/products/n...-dual-dash-cam


Smart box III has a timer cutoff too in addition to the voltage, which is pretty handy. Working like a charm without any battery warnings. I've set it up to 12.2V & 6hr as the cutoff criteria.
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      01-27-2021, 02:47 PM   #32
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wingzee , were you able to tuck back the roof liner in the photo, Photo 25-12-19, 6 47 11 am.jpg. The reason being is that I just had my dashcam installed and I noticed that the roof liner at the rear end doesn't tuck properly. I'm not quite sure if its the installer's fault or manufacturing fault.
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      04-05-2021, 09:16 AM   #33
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Apologise for waking up an old thread. Just installed my Thinkware F800Pro yesterday on the 2021 X3. I used F24 and F47 for the 2 power sources. Realized that the camera will go into parking mode after almost an hour after the car has been shut off, doors closed and locked. Anyone experienced this?
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      04-05-2021, 09:18 AM   #34
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We had difficulties tucking the headliner back in yesterday as well. But all u need to do is work the trunk weather strip back into the rail with your pry tool an inch at a time, the rubber will go back into place and the headliner will be able to be tucked into it again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillao View Post
wingzee , were you able to tuck back the roof liner in the photo, Photo 25-12-19, 6 47 11 am.jpg. The reason being is that I just had my dashcam installed and I noticed that the roof liner at the rear end doesn't tuck properly. I'm not quite sure if its the installer's fault or manufacturing fault.

Last edited by cowymo; 04-05-2021 at 09:25 AM..
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      04-05-2021, 10:15 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by cowymo View Post
Apologise for waking up an old thread. Just installed my Thinkware F800Pro yesterday on the 2021 X3. I used F24 and F47 for the 2 power sources. Realized that the camera will go into parking mode after almost an hour after the car has been shut off, doors closed and locked. Anyone experienced this?
Hi

I'm not sure I 100% understand your question or the issue you're experiencing.

I've got the older F770 model so not sure if the behaviour is the same. I also used different fuses - very specifically, you need a constant (F27 in my case) and a switched (F46 in my case).

Mine goes into parking mode after about 10mins I think - it's however long the car takes to cut off the power to F46.

I have found that it only lasts about 3-5 hours in parking before my voltage limit kicks in. I think you don't want to set it any lower than about 12v to avoid battery drain/wear and risk of not being able to turn over the starter motor!

Some people have installed a battery pack like the Cellink Neo which can give around 48hrs continuous recording from the battery or a lot longer on time lapse mode I think.

I hope this helps.

Matt
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      05-04-2024, 02:18 PM   #36
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Apologies for the thread revival but as a UK owner, this is one of the most helpful guides I've seen for a RHD car. Much appreciated!

Couple of questions off the back of it though:
  • Does anyone know where I can find a fusebox diagram for a 2023 M40i? Are F46 and F27 still the right ones to use?
  • The guide seems to skip a bit when it comes to taking the rear camera wire all the way to the front. Don't understand why it's going to the left side of the car when the front fusebox is on the right?

Also, has anyone removed the A-pillar trim for a safer routing of the front cam wire behind any airbag apparatus? I've seen the official (BMW) trim removal instructions shared on this forum before but they seem a bit vague, and I'm paranoid about breaking something that isn't easily replaced!
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      05-04-2024, 02:29 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroberaver View Post
[*]The guide seems to skip a bit when it comes to taking the rear camera wire all the way to the front. Don't understand why it's going to the left side of the car when the front fusebox is on the right?
In the UK the front dash cam is positioned on the passenger side (left as you look forward) within the wiper arc and the rear camera plugs into the front dash cam for signal and power. Feeding the power supply cables in the UK G01 can be a PITA as the roof mounted console/KAFAS module prevent the cable feeding left to right (front fuse box), and usually BMW drop the headlining to route the BMW ACE 3.0 dash cam.

Also, if you plan to use parking mode there can be issues with BMW power management detecting parasitic drain, which may generate error or disable car features.
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      05-04-2024, 03:31 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avi66 View Post
In the UK the front dash cam is positioned on the passenger side (left as you look forward) within the wiper arc and the rear camera plugs into the front dash cam for signal and power. Feeding the power supply cables in the UK G01 can be a PITA as the roof mounted console/KAFAS module prevent the cable feeding left to right (front fuse box), and usually BMW drop the headlining to route the BMW ACE 3.0 dash cam.
Oh, yes, of course, it's a shorter route for the rear cam's wire to get to the front camera isn't it, if it goes down the left. My Thinkware is already on the windscreen to the left of the mirror, but just powered from the cigarette lighter at the moment. I don't fancy dropping the headlining though for the wire to the rear cam, I presume most folk just tuck it into the rubber strip above the doors?

Quote:
Originally Posted by avi66 View Post
Also, if you plan to use parking mode there can be issues with BMW power management detecting parasitic drain, which may generate error or disable car features.
Yeah I saw a few mentions of that in various reviews and install guides. I have my Thinkware's battery cut-off set high and also parking mode only runs for 24 hours, so fingers crossed it'll be ok.
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      05-05-2024, 02:56 PM   #39
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Well, that's me flummoxed. Today I spent a couple of hours wrestling with the fusebox, plugged my Thinkware into F27 and F47 (F47 on the basis that the consensus is it's switched like F46, but F47 is empty).

Nada. Not a peep out of the dashcam, not even parking mode from the constant supply. Went back to the cigarette lighter socket power cable and it's fine. But nothing from the hardwire kit.

Of course it could be a dodgy fuse tap, loose connection, or any other issue. I'll have to pull it all apart again next weekend and start systematically testing. There must be somewhere I can get confirmation of fuse box wiring on a '23 M40i?
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      05-05-2024, 03:16 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroberaver View Post
Well, that's me flummoxed. Today I spent a couple of hours wrestling with the fusebox, plugged my Thinkware into F27 and F47 (F47 on the basis that the consensus is it's switched like F46, but F47 is empty).

Nada. Not a peep out of the dashcam, not even parking mode from the constant supply. Went back to the cigarette lighter socket power cable and it's fine. But nothing from the hardwire kit.

Of course it could be a dodgy fuse tap, loose connection, or any other issue. I'll have to pull it all apart again next weekend and start systematically testing. There must be somewhere I can get confirmation of fuse box wiring on a '23 M40i?


I used F46 with the appropriate sized fuse tap...no issues at all. Fuse location: passenger side foot-well, easy to access.
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      05-13-2024, 05:01 PM   #41
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Not such easy access on RHD cars unfortunately - the pedals, footwell carpet, and plastic trim holding the bonnet release handle all conspire to make access to certain rows of fuses very difficult indeed.

Having started testing my installed positions, it turns out the F27 is working fine as the constant/battery power, but somehow on the Thinkware, parking mode had been disabled - d'oh!

However it was F47 that was the problem for me with the accessory/switched fuse. Everywhere on the internet it suggests that F46 and F47 power the front and rear 12v sockets respectively. Except on mine, F47 is completely dead/unused - no power from it at all - and yet the rear 12v socket still works fine. So clearly some wiring has been changed for the '23 models.

The aforementioned carpet and trim panels make access to F46 extremely tricky for removing the existing fuse and squeezing in a fuse tap, so in the end after experimenting with the various open/unused fuse slots, went for an empty slot in the F53-F57 range. Think it might have been F54 I used.

These fuses appear to be switched, but they don't turn off immediately - they continue to supply power for about 6½ minutes after the car is locked or goes to sleep. Not ideal since it means I get 6½ minutes of additional continuous recording when I park up instead of going straight into parking mode, but liveable with for now.
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      05-14-2024, 01:21 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroberaver View Post
Not such easy access on RHD cars unfortunately - the pedals, footwell carpet, and plastic trim holding the bonnet release handle all conspire to make access to certain rows of fuses very difficult indeed.

Having started testing my installed positions, it turns out the F27 is working fine as the constant/battery power, but somehow on the Thinkware, parking mode had been disabled - d'oh!

However it was F47 that was the problem for me with the accessory/switched fuse. Everywhere on the internet it suggests that F46 and F47 power the front and rear 12v sockets respectively. Except on mine, F47 is completely dead/unused - no power from it at all - and yet the rear 12v socket still works fine. So clearly some wiring has been changed for the '23 models.

The aforementioned carpet and trim panels make access to F46 extremely tricky for removing the existing fuse and squeezing in a fuse tap, so in the end after experimenting with the various open/unused fuse slots, went for an empty slot in the F53-F57 range. Think it might have been F54 I used.

These fuses appear to be switched, but they don't turn off immediately - they continue to supply power for about 6½ minutes after the car is locked or goes to sleep. Not ideal since it means I get 6½ minutes of additional continuous recording when I park up instead of going straight into parking mode, but liveable with for now.
You could look at putting in an appropriate battery power supply for parking mode, but not cheap for the Thinkware option, and more installation work.

Think I'd seriously consider the BMW ACE 3 for parking mode and let BMW have the install headache.
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      05-24-2024, 01:37 PM   #43
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Hello everyone, thanks to this post I could install a Viofo A229 Pro Front and Rear Dascham easily on my G01 X3.

I can verify that the fuses for Germany are ATC type.


I have a question though, can anyone confirm if this site safe or effective for "grounding"?

Thank you again.
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      05-25-2024, 03:30 PM   #44
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I have a question though, can anyone confirm if this site safe or effective for "grounding"?
Oh, how envious I am of the ease of access to the fuse box on LHD cars! Yes, that's point I used for ground on mine.

My install that I mentioned a few posts up has taken an odd turn. Everything was working fine.

Today I fired up the car for the first time in about 12 days. The iDrive took ages to get everything running, as if the car's systems had gone into a deep sleep. However, there was no power to the dashcam. And also no bluetooth connection - it didn't know my phone anymore and I had to re-pair it and get it set up once more (and annoyingly now it's asking me every time if I want to use Android Auto which it never used to do).

No idea why power would no longer be supplied to those fuses. Typical when I have a long drive to go see family tomorrow. Looks like a fun bank holiday awaits of dismantling the kick panel and testing fuses!
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