07-03-2018, 08:45 PM | #23 | |
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I have MHD,
I had JB4 (piggyback) then had plans to go BM3 (Bootmod3) flash tune. Was ready to pull the DME. Then joined MHD beta as it didn’t require bench flash. I’d recommend either flash tune and not the piggy backs. The intercooler keeps IAT (intake air temp) down with any tune you increase boost= more heat. You retain any power that maybe lost from high IAT’s. DP jb4 no longer autoclears and CEL. Adding DP frees up restriction and works with tune yes. Bootmod3 or MHD will take advantage of the hardware especially with a custom flash tune. Quote:
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07-04-2018, 02:55 PM | #24 |
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is it a typo or the 2013 F25 with the N55 is not supported ?
what is the diffence with the 2014+ engine? BMW X Series • 2013+ N55 BMW X1 • 2014+ N55 BMW F25 X3 • 2014-2018 N55 BMW F15 X5 F16 X6 • 2017+ N55 BMW X4 M40i http://www.burgertuning.com/N55_JB4_...BMW_tuner.html |
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07-04-2018, 03:33 PM | #25 | |
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07-04-2018, 06:05 PM | #26 | |
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I'm not talking about the minimal gains you get from when you upgrade the FMIC on its own, which it sounds like is what you're referring to. Heck, even without a tune at all, you can add a FMIC and get some gains. Same with the DP. To fully take advantage of hardware upgrades, You have to be able to tweak the tune or piggyback. Like the "stages" for the Cobb tune I was talking about. Do you know whether the JB Stage 1 or JB4 can actually be set up based on your hardware? |
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07-05-2018, 09:05 AM | #27 | |
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The question is more related to the bmw build difference than the JB tune itself. for the JB4 question, I have one laying in the garage, was on a M235, will try it soon. |
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07-28-2018, 08:20 AM | #28 |
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07-28-2018, 07:08 PM | #29 | |
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Only a flash tune really takes and uses based on your hardware the right way. What's funny is a Stage1 The only thing a jb4 stg1 or jb4 (map1) is intended for "what they suggest" for stock cars or low octane. Map2 since its adding 2+ more of boost its intended for cars with Catless downpipe. But now that jb4 has gone carb approved they cannot recommend catless downpipe anymore and does not clear the check engine light caused by it. Since the jb4 is only upping boost (heat). Futhermore, a FMIC on these cars shows its shine pull after pull where the stock fmic will heatsoak even in a fully stock car. You're Correct
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07-29-2018, 01:08 PM | #30 |
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Now here's the million dollar question... does the 35i intercooler fit the 28i? I'm looking to stage 2 my 28i with a catless dp, BM3, and intercooler.
BM3 is fully compatible, there's a catless DP on the market and metal charge pipes. Now just looking for an IC Last edited by Riick; 07-29-2018 at 02:00 PM.. |
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07-30-2018, 10:07 AM | #31 | |
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https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0581 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=17517823570 11 Charge-air cooler 1 17517823570 (n20) f25 the N20 intercooler has a different part number compared to the 35i (n55). 17517593845 (n55) diagram they look pretty much the same. pull it out and post a photo. pretty sure it would work with some custom fab work. vrsf n20 and n55 intercoolers seem interchangeable on the f30 chassis. |
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10-13-2019, 10:33 PM | #34 |
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I wish there was more info and instructions on this VRSF install. It appears from your photo that you had to trim a bunch of the under tray plastic to make this fit? Hard to tell. If yes what tools did you use to cut the plastic? Thanks.
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10-15-2019, 05:50 AM | #35 |
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A few spots that got in the way, wasn't much. I used a multi tool.
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10-15-2019, 07:38 AM | #36 |
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I did the same, there is a few plastic bumps and protrusions that help secure the OEM intercooler. 2 minutes with a Dremel tool and you're good to go.
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10-15-2019, 07:19 PM | #37 |
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Well I got mine installed but what a shit show. The claimed 1.5 hrs to install is a joke as this is not a bolt up as it requires a lot of finessing, test fitting and customization. Instructions provide = zero. I did have to trim about 2" of the black plastic that is attached to the bumper, trimmed it to where the ribs start. Maybe could have left 1/4".
The provided brackets dont work as is. The hole spacing isn't even correct. I had to slot the holes to match the stock mounting holes and to provide adjustment. You need to fit and adjust the brackets so that the intercooler lies flush with the back of the radiator so that the fan sits flush on both. I ended drilling pilot holes through the provided brackets and driving a decent 2" screw with washers, up through both sides of the bracket and the plastic. The fan sits a bit higher, even after cutting off the fan tabs and slotting the fan to fit the intercooler fan brackets. The bottom of the fan is just lower than the intercooler however I still had to slot the top passenger side bolt hole and cut a bit off of the driver side engagement tab. After all that the charge pipe won't snap on no matter what I did so I had to take off the intercooler to find out that the intercooler nozzle is out of round or cast wrong. The charge pipe fit fine on the other side nozzle so it wasnt the charge pipe. Recommend checking this first!. Also the intercooler inlet and outlet nozzles dont end up in quite the same place so getting the charge and boost pipes on takes some work. If using aftermarket pipes, best to order some longer silicone couplings. Its a nice upgrade however VRSF should provide instructions, brackets that fit/work, do some quality control, and be up front on what is involved. Last edited by FranzX3M; 10-15-2019 at 07:25 PM.. Reason: sp |
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10-15-2019, 07:45 PM | #38 | |
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11-13-2019, 06:04 AM | #40 |
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I just installed mine last night and agree with all the FranzX3M comments. I also added the VRSF charge pipe upgrade at the same time as well(another complete joy to do getting the stock pipe out in one piece) The angle of the IC inlet/outlet pipes is wrong and really makes engaging the inlet and outlet tubes tough. Also the bracket is total BS. I too had to mod mine and ended up running a course thread screw up through the IC lower mounting holes, through the crappy aluminum provided bracket(which don't match the mounting hole pattern) and up into the upper plastic OEM mount. It's not going anywhere now! If you are working on your back you will definitely need to use a floor jack to raise up the new IC, it is heavy trying to hold it up with your hand. I thought "no way this will fit" when I had it sitting side by side with my stocker, but it barely does. I didn't have to cut any plastic on that front air dam. I just pulled the air dam underneath the IC and it will sandwich under the bottom car plastic cover.
I gave up last night trying to get the fan back in since as noted above, it will no longer fit right. I will have to look into trimming the bottom tabs and potentially the lower fan edge to see if I can get it aligned correctly again. This will be today's job along with installing the vrsf catted DP(that turbo vband bolt looks really fun, joy) Too bad my GFB DV+ came after all this, hopefully I can just remove the WP bolts and move it out of the way to get the DV in/out. They sure don't give you a lot of room to work on this platform! With my BM3 stage 2 tune and trans tune this should be a fun ride. Maybe a Pure Stage 2 will be in my future. Is there a big difference adding this? Do you also need to up the LP and HP fuel system to support? Just Bring My Wallet! Last edited by mjosco; 11-13-2019 at 06:16 AM.. |
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12-30-2019, 10:10 AM | #41 | ||
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I can confirm a successful flash on a 2012 N55 BMW F25 X3 no clue as to why they would list it as non-supported |
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03-11-2020, 03:28 PM | #42 | |
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03-18-2020, 02:14 AM | #43 |
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Who makes the biggest intercooler for the X3 35i (N55)?
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05-05-2020, 12:22 PM | #44 | ||||
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TheCoolX3 FranzX3M mjosco can you guys give me some insight as to what needs to be trimmed? (pics if possible please) also, some advice about the provided hardware? as we all know... NO instructions... what am I supposed to do with the washers? top of bracket or , use it to sandwich the rubber grommet? after reading all of your posts, I will have to slot / modify my brackets.... because like you all, I went through a shit show of trying to get it all to line up |
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