[pmass513]

Originally Posted by admranger

I cannot. I'm leaving on a 3 week trip and my time is devoted to getting everything done for that. There's probably a video online.

OK, no rush. Maybe you can do it when you get back. There's no video online; I've looked. Enjoy your trip!

[pmass513]

FYI... if anyone is looking for what the Transfer Case oil change service looks like in ISTA see this post:

https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showt...php?p=31318082

[qaman]

This post is just a comment for anyone researching jerkiness in BMW driving related possible transfer box problems.
My 2015 X435d had been slightly jerky when accelerating over the past several months having done about 80,000 miles since purchased new. The hesitancy didn't seem to coincide exactly with the gearbox changing up though the gear.s Despite BMW not scheduling transmission oil changes - Firstly I tried changing the gearbox oil and this had no significant effect - however, I then went on to change the oil in the transfer box and this SOLVED THE PROBLEM IMMEDIATELY. The car is as smooth now as when it was new.
The local dealership charged me about £250 for the change plus the cost of the oil (about £36) so really quite expensive for a relatively simple oil change (much simpler if BMW had included a drain plug in the transfer box!)
Deatership had said that changing the oil fixes the jerkiness about 10% of the time - luckily I mut be in the 10% - otherwise a new transfer box would have been indicated at cost of quite a few thousand pounds. However at that price, I would probably have just kept driving it as it was, as althpugh noticeable, it wasnt a major problem, as my wife drives the car most of the time!

[admranger]

Originally Posted by pmass513

Can you please post some pictures of the display(s) / menu(s) on the Foxwell NT510 Elite that show the Transfer Case service option. List out how you got to it.

When you activate the options, can you hear the valve open?

How much fluid were you able to pull?

I'm curious b/c on another thread someone was using a code reader (I think Foxwell 530) and said it didn't work, even thought the menu option was there.

I'd like an easy, plug and play solution that bypasses all of the effort of installing & learning ISTA+

So the transfer case is under Service, VTG. Pretty easy to do though the Foxwell is slower than molasses so prepare to sit and wait for it to think a long time.

[daku3]

For those who have managed to change the oil in VTG, please advise what kind of pipe is best to use and what kind (some examples). I couldn't manage to place a 0.5 cm diameter pipe on the bottom of the gearbox, and I bent it as much as I could . Is it necessary to unscrew the bracket? I did it of course using ISTA with the process of opening the second chamber, but unfortunately I had to give up because of the inability to reach the bottom of the transfer case with the pipe.

[daku3]

I found a video that shows the whole process well, it's an X5 G05 but it's exactly the same gearbox and a very similar chassis layout.

[thelightning]

Fyi you do NOT need to Reset Adaptations unless you have problems(codes) with the transfercase or you have replaced/rebuilt it.

If your car is performing fine, refresh the fluids and leave the Adaptation Reset alone. It will adapt the minimal change due to fresh fluid by itsself.

[thelightning]

Originally Posted by daku3

I found a video that shows the whole process well, it's an X5 G05 but it's exactly the same gearbox and a very similar chassis layout.

Problem #1: The car is not level so don't do it this way.
Problem #2: He did not perform the oil change function in ISTA/scannertool
Problem #3: Not using original OEM Hypoid oil. Don't save 10 bucks on the oil for this part.
Problem #4: Don't put back in exactly what came out. Fill it until over overruns, wait til you start to see seperate drips instead of a stream, and then plug it up. DO NOT use your finger to block the hole like he did. Allthough in his specific case it probably helped him because the car is not level.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by thelightning

Problem #1: The car is not level so don't do it this way.
Problem #2: He did not perform the oil change function in ISTA/scannertool
Problem #3: Not using original OEM Hypoid oil. Don't save 10 bucks on the oil for this part.
Problem #4: Don't put back in exactly what came out. Fill it until over overruns, wait til you start to see seperate drips instead of a stream, and then plug it up. DO NOT use your finger to block the hole like he did. Allthough in his specific case it probably helped him because the car is not level.

Agreed. Level is important since you're filling until it drips out.

I used a tool to open both chambers up and I reset the adaptations while I was at it.

Having a very small diameter hose is important. You can't get to the bottom of the transfer case w/o that.

FWIW, I didn't need to take the brace out but it would have made life easier if I did.

[Alias1431]

Originally Posted by thelightning

Fyi you do NOT need to Reset Adaptations unless you have problems(codes) with the transfercase or you have replaced/rebuilt it.

If your car is performing fine, refresh the fluids and leave the Adaptation Reset alone. It will adapt the minimal change due to fresh fluid by itsself.

Is there any harm in it, if you want to err on the side of caution?

[thelightning]

Originally Posted by Alias1431

Is there any harm in it, if you want to err on the side of caution?

What use is there if you don't have any issues? Then it's obviously adapted properly.

It's in the word; Adaptive/Adaptations: adjustment to environmental conditions.
The car perform adaptions constantly to make sure the TC is working properly. There is no added value to forcefully resetting it unless you had a problem with it with that caused bad adapations or changed something drastically about the TC or replaced/overhauled (a part of) it. Changing the oil is not a drastic change.

[daku3]

I bought a 3mm diameter plastic hose, I hope I can reach the bottom .
ISTA suggests, or rather orders, resetting the adaptation, but I'll think about what to do with it.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by daku3

I bought a 3mm diameter plastic hose, I hope I can reach the bottom .
ISTA suggests, or rather orders, resetting the adaptation, but I'll think about what to do with it.

I reset the adaptations when I did it on my X3 and X7. It takes a little time, but it adjusts to the new oil mix you have in there since it's almost impossible to get all the old oil out.

[thelightning]

Originally Posted by daku3

ISTA suggests, or rather orders, resetting the adaptation, but I'll think about what to do with it.

I've never seen that. Oil change and Adapt Reset are 2 seperate functions. Because they are 2 seperate items to perform in different scenarios
Mostly seen adaptation values of 0.1 or 0.2 deg. Thats nothing that won't sort itsself out. Hell, it might even self-calibrated itsself for warm/hot oil and you just calibrated it for cold oil

[daku3]

From what I remember, ISTA during the oil change service procedure informs about the need to reset the adaptation in a later step, but this is in fact a separate service function and it can be used or not.

[smaglik]

OP, or anyone else...those bolts that were pulled to removed the transmission crossmember...are they one time use? Thanks!

[TwinSnailz]

You dont even need to waste time removing the cross member. 14mm allen thats been removed from the socket and use a 14mm wrench. Or used the special tool you can get from amazon that’s pre assembled the same way. I flushed mine 3 times with triax dtf-1. Use the soft silicone hose so that you can snake it down through all those loopholes inside the case. The hard hose won’t work. Gets super easy each time I changed it.
My vehicle transfer case before the flush was pretty bad, like really bad. Felt like the the drivetrain was about to explode everytime I turn. Now its butter smooth.

[smaglik]

Thanks! I've done that same procedure on an e91 before, so I already have the denuded 14mm hex. I need to look into the hose though. All I have is the ones that come with the hf fluid transfer pump, and they're pretty stiff.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by TwinSnailz

You dont even need to waste time removing the cross member. 14mm allen thats been removed from the socket and use a 14mm wrench. Or used the special tool you can get from amazon that’s pre assembled the same way. I flushed mine 3 times with triax dtf-1. Use the soft silicone hose so that you can snake it down through all those loopholes inside the case. The hard hose won’t work. Gets super easy each time I changed it.
My vehicle transfer case before the flush was pretty bad, like really bad. Felt like the the drivetrain was about to explode everytime I turn. Now its butter smooth.

Do you have a link to the hose. I have tried a variety of hoses but never felt like it was the right one for the TC job.

It is surprising how nasty that TC fluid gets.

[TwinSnailz]

Originally Posted by admranger

Do you have a link to the hose. I have tried a variety of hoses but never felt like it was the right one for the TC job.

It is surprising how nasty that TC fluid gets.

Its the one that was included with the manual pump that I bought. The one that is knotted up.

[smaglik]

Originally Posted by TwinSnailz

Its the one that was included with the manual pump that I bought. The one that is knotted up.

Can you put a link to the product? As you can imagine, there are many out there....this looks similar?

https://a.co/d/gVm7PPG

[TwinSnailz]

https://a.co/d/hkvvqjQ
You need to look for the opaque white silicone flex tube. Not the clear tube as they are pvc.