10-30-2011, 06:46 PM | #23 | |
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Correction: It has been awhile, thankfully. If I remember correctly you do a little pull to release, then a twist, then a pullout. Last edited by Radioactive; 10-30-2011 at 07:10 PM.. |
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10-31-2011, 02:28 PM | #24 | |
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As noted, getting the file in to cleanup the hole is the hard part, but not impossible. I normally put my weight into it and it's not a problem. Once inserted into the hole, you can rotate the file as well as move up/down to clean up the hole. That helps minimize horsing on it. Then, goober up the plug with glue, stick it in, pull and twist the tool 90 degrees to remove, and you're good to go. I usually trim the ends of the plug flush with the tire tread at the end. |
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11-07-2011, 04:53 PM | #25 |
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instead of starting a new thread I thought I would continue this one, if you go with NON-RFT does it effect the TPMS at all on the X3? I am most likely getting WS-60 non rft for the winter but wanted to at least get the TPMS sensors so that my wife will be alerted right away if a tire starts losing pressure and can call me or BMW assist to get the car towed, but is the X3 TPMS designed specifically for run flats or does it not matter?
As another user said in this forum, my wife will never be driving on long trips or outside of the city/suburbs without me, so I am okay with getting non-RFT. In my experience all my flats usually come in the summer for some reason. |
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11-07-2011, 06:02 PM | #26 |
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Nah, TPS doesn't care what kind of tires are on the RIM. However, the system may be set to trigger an alarm at a certain PSI, so that could be an issue if the new tires are inflated to a dramatically different running pressure than the old ones. I wouldn't expect that to be the case, since the recommended tire pressure is usually based on vehicle load.
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11-08-2011, 05:22 PM | #27 | |
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I think it is bad luck to be superstitious |
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11-08-2011, 05:24 PM | #28 | |
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I think it is bad luck to be superstitious |
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11-11-2011, 04:09 PM | #29 | |
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First attempt in tyre puncture repair
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Firstly the puncture site could be hard to locate if the wheel is not removed from the car. Took a bit of time and physical strength to do it on our driveway, just outside the garage. Found a screw that caused the puncture. Secondly, all aspect of repair using the repair kit is rather simple and straight forward with the exception of inserting the plug. As seen in those Youtube videos, A LOT of sustained force has to be applied even after the plug was lubricated prior to insertion. I had to put my weight onto the insertion applicator that has a T shape handle. Frankly I just can not see how I can possibly insert the plug without first removing the tyre from the car. It is just impossible for me to apply the same amount of force if the insertion is done horizontally rather then vertically (where I can use the body weight to increase the applied insertion force). |
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11-11-2011, 05:42 PM | #30 |
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kirby. Congratulation on losing your tyre virginity! I'm glad you got the experience at home rather than out on the road. I've had to do one on the road. My son caught a nail on the road causing the flat. Previous to that the tyre shop put the wrong lug nut on the car, so I had to do an on the car repair. Took over an hour and I had to use every tool known to cavemen to get the rasp and plug in. That's why I've tried to put out some warning that it's not like a pit crew tyre change.
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11-16-2011, 11:45 AM | #31 |
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not sure i have all the info. don't have x3 yet, looking at it, and run flat is one of the points that is making me consider or not consider getting it.
can you purchase new from the dealer x3 without rft? if so, do you get a credit back applied to regular tires? or if you don't want rfts, is this purely an aftermarket solution? thanks. |
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11-16-2011, 06:34 PM | #32 | |
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I would not let any issue over the runflats deter you from considering the X3 - its a great car. Tony |
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11-16-2011, 08:00 PM | #33 |
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Question for Brissim
Brissim is your spare also a BMW wheel?
I just need a steel wheel that I can use in the event of a flat to get out of remote country, it does not have to be another BMW alloy wheel. Even a simple space saver that can bolt on would enable me to get back to where there is at least phone contact. |
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11-16-2011, 11:16 PM | #34 | |
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Don't like space saver tyres/wheels for much the same reason I don't like runflats. Plus by the time you've tied down a space-saver spare in the back - you might as well be using a full size spare for all the room it actually saves you. Word of advice if you do decide to get a BMW wheel. Order it through spare parts and don't include it in to the purchase of your car (unless you can wangle a very good deal out of it). Otherwise there's a good chance you could end up paying the 33% LCT on the spare wheel. Tony |
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12-21-2011, 02:05 PM | #35 |
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12-21-2011, 10:54 PM | #36 |
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As you can see from my posts above, I've replaced the runflats with conventional tyres. However as I did this right at delivery, I really can't comment on any before and after issues such as handling. However I must say I'd be surprised if swaping the runflats for conventional would improve handling because of any weight saving. Given that any weight saving is going to be low down well below the centre of gravity, I really don't see how this would improve handling.
The other argument could be that by going away from runflats with their stiffer sidewall, you may in fact have a negative impact on handling. Tony |
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12-22-2011, 02:04 AM | #37 |
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After putting only 13,500 miles on my Continental ContiSport 3 SSR (Self Supporting Runflats) they showed signs of needing replacement (not terrible - but I don't like to get them all the way bald before I replace them).
I didn't like the choice of SSR or the price. I was able to get a better non SSR tire, a full size OEM wheel (front width), and another front tire. For now I am happy with the decision. The right is better, the grip is better, and the tires are lighter (meaning better fuel efficiency, handling, and acceleration / braking). I am securing the full size spare flat in the trunk and standing it up on its side when I need to transport other items of size (like luggage). I bought a breaker bar, 17mm deep socket wrench, and a torque wrench that I store in the lower compartment in the trunk. I am still hunting for a good portable jack and tire repair kit (plug type, not goo). This is a very recent thing for me (new tires went on today). I'm sure my next flat will be in the middle of the hood in the pouring rain and I will regret to hell not going with SSR's. My thread about my decision and searching for some hardware is here: http://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=625427 |
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12-22-2011, 03:57 AM | #38 | |
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The less you have "not suspensioned" weight, the better car should handle. |
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12-23-2011, 12:15 AM | #40 |
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They have to make the side walls of the RFTs stiff enough in order to be "Self Supporting". The tradeoff compared to nonRFTs is the added non-sprung weight that adversary affects handling and ride quality. The stiff side wall also lead to cupping problems especially if you like to have fun and wear pre-maturely(shorter service life span).
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12-23-2011, 02:07 AM | #41 | |
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The tires are rotating and thus contain a polar moment of inertia (your entire car also has this about the primary axis... the most important of which is the Z axis... more inertia means it is harder to turn.... ie more stable). With a lower polar moment of inertia the tire can accelerate faster (both accelerating and braking) from the same input moment. Thus your car can accelerate faster and brake faster. Also your car should be easier to steer being of the smaller moment of inertia meaning a smaller aligning torque is necessary. Finally, the lower unsprung mass (the wheel assemblies / suspension are not sprung by your suspension) will offer more responsive handling along with some other benefits that would be hard to determine without knowing more about the suspension geometry / designed naturally frequency. |
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12-27-2011, 12:39 PM | #42 |
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I want to change my runflats to non-runflat.
Now I have Pirelli P Zero 245/50/18 100Y runflat. Which reglular tire must I choose ? - Michelin Latitude Sport/Diamaris - Continental ContiSportContact 3 - Bridgestone Turanza ER30 - Pirelli P Zero (non-runflat) - Dunlop SP Sport Maxx GT What did you choose ? |
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12-27-2011, 09:08 PM | #43 | |
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I ended up settling for Hankook Ventus V12 Evo summer performance tires. They were cheeper than the Continentals but I like them a lot. From what I understand I should be able to get 35k+ miles out of them. Their wet weather performance is excellent and I am equally impressed with the dry weather performance. I will note that my choice of tire was more limited because I have the staggered setup (245/45-19 front 275/40-19 rear). |
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12-28-2011, 08:39 AM | #44 |
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Does anyone know at what temperature in the winter the sealant in the BMW Mobility kit "stops flowing" to assure a smooth distribution in the leaking tire? I know the tire may be warmer than the ambient air temperature, unless you find your tire flat in the AM's cold before even driving, but the sealant stored in an unheated vehicle may be significantly more viscous in the cold depending upon its chemical composition. Will it still work reliably at the colder North American winter temps?
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