[a9entjones]

Hi legends.

Lots of posts about this, but I didn't find any that clearly defined which wires needed to be tapped, so I made a video of me doing it. No need for the expensive PnP harness if you have a couple of hours and basic soldering skills.

I've added an AudioControl LC2i Pro, Alpine S2-A60M and MTX Audio RTF10AS 10" Subwoofer. I've coded the B&W audio profile via BimmerLink and set it to Studio. The audio is still not as crisp as I like from the front stage, and I may look at some Focal K2s for the front doors, but it is a massive improvement. The sub really fills the void that the stock system has in the lows...now, about those new rattles!

[avi66]

Originally Posted by a9entjones

Hi legends.

Lots of posts about this, but I didn't find any that clearly defined which wires needed to be tapped, so I made a video of me doing it. No need for the expensive PnP harness if you have a couple of hours and basic soldering skills.

I've added an AudioControl LC2i Pro, Alpine S2-A60M and MTX Audio RTF10AS 10" Subwoofer. I've coded the B&W audio profile via BimmerLink and set it to Studio. The audio is still not as crisp as I like from the front stage, and I may look at some Focal K2s for the front doors, but it is a massive improvement. The sub really fills the void that the stock system has in the lows...now, about those new rattles!

Just curious what does changing the head unit menu to B&W branding offer in terms of the range of standard Harman DSP settings beyond variations of same range of settings being stored under a present with a name ?

[a9entjones]

Originally Posted by avi66

Just curious what does changing the head unit menu to B&W branding offer in terms of the range of standard Harman DSP settings beyond variations of same range of settings being stored under a present with a name ?

I played around with the standard EQ, but couldn't get it to sound quite right. The Studio preset that comes up under the B&W menu gave me the best sound quality. I may end up going with the Alpine Optim8 and some K2s for the front, but I want to give it some time with the current setup before spending another couple of thousand 😉

[avi66]

Originally Posted by a9entjones

I played around with the standard EQ, but couldn't get it to sound quite right. The Studio preset that comes up under the B&W menu gave me the best sound quality. I may end up going with the Alpine Optim8 and some K2s for the front, but I want to give it some time with the current setup before spending another couple of thousand 😉

That’s interesting.

The MGU head unit is essentially just a media controller UI and is common across a number of iDrive 7 models, some of which i.e. G05 have a BMW option for ALEV4 06F1 B&W audio, but others like the G01 don’t. Hence, the menu graphics for different options loaded at manufacture in the common MGU, and BMW flip depending on the hardware fitted. Bimmercode can be used to flip the menu.

No change at the Harman audio processing algo end in the ALEV3 0688 HK RAM or booster, which is just Harman HK DSP settings range, so no magic source in an ALEV3 RAM if the MGU has the B&W menu without the hardware, that’s as far as it goes, although knowing a more expensive audio option menu is loaded, or associating words like “studio” may have some pre bias effect on human perception.

The presets like studio, concert, lounge etc are just the same range of setting as you get on the HK menu, but the values are adjusted and stored for immediate recall. So, studio will turn off Logic 7, concert will turn on Logic7, and vary the amount surround etc, lounge directs fader to rear etc. Obviously there are a large number of possible HK setting combinations that impact the sound.

The ALEV4 RAM and booster are both different parts compared to the ALEV3 RAM and booster, which vary due to other options fitted, region, build dates etc, but the ALEV4 hardware setup is very different. The booster in ALEV3 drives just the 2 under seat woofers, in ALEV4 it drives numerous other speakers, plus there’s discrete driven channels for tweeters, rather than the passive filter on a single channel at the speaker end as used on the ALEV3, so even the harness is different, and that’s before the power output, speaker performance characteristics, or the Harman DSP changes to process more channels, digital v passive freq filters, and any Harman integration/tuning to reflect these differences or model listening space characteristics is factored.

[a9entjones]

Awesome detail...thanks avi66

The massive improvement I was referring to in my post was the addition of the sub...the Studio profile was just the preset that sounded best to me prior to adding the sub, and I've not messed with it since.

I'm certain you're correct regarding the placebo effect regarding the switch to B&W theme. To be fair, I had only played with the EQ for a short time before messing with the options in Bimmercode, and before adding the sub. I will l spend some more time with the stock EQ and see if I can tweak it. I'm still not completely happy with the SQ....blunt is probably the best word to describe it....and I know that a speaker upgrade to some crisp Focals will be in my future, which also means more power and control are needed. I have a local independent audio store that swears by the Alpine Optim8, so I will likely go that route.

I understand there's Match and Alpha One that are made to easily integrate, but the price in Aus in exorbitant. I can get the Alpine and some K2s for half the price!

Thanks again for taking the time to reply.

[avi66]

Originally Posted by a9entjones

I understand there's Match and Alpha One that are made to easily integrate, but the price in Aus in exorbitant. I can get the Alpine and some K2s for half the price!

Assuming you mean third party DSP/amp, the issue for BMW models using iDrive7 and beyond is the RAM architecture.

This means products like the Audiotech Fischer Match and Bimnertech Alpha One, which is a rebranded Match, is just hijacking the RAM analogue output, which has been processed, converted, and amplified to speaker level output. At which point more conversion, processing and re amplification, which isn’t a lossless process.

The problem for businesses that sell and install this stuff is there really isn’t an a digital alternative for full native channel RAM support, and for those making a living from this, the hijack route is the only game in town to make a living.

[a9entjones]

Originally Posted by avi66

Assuming you mean third party DSP/amp, the issue for BMW models using iDrive7 and beyond is the RAM architecture.

This means products like the Audiotech Fischer Match and Bimnertech Alpha One, which is a rebranded Match, is just hijacking the RAM analogue output, which has been processed, converted, and amplified to speaker level output. At which point more conversion, processing and re amplification, which isn’t a lossless process.

The problem for businesses that sell and install this stuff is there really isn’t an a digital alternative for full native channel RAM support, and for those making a living from this, the hijack route is the only game in town to make a living.

Thanks for your insights mate.

I spent some time with the EQ again today and have got an improvement over the preset. The 2kHz band was set quite low. I bumped that up and it sounds fuller now 🤘

I class myself as an advanced amateur, so excuse my ignorance. Are you saying that there's limited SQ gain from an aftermarket DSP (the Alpine Optim-8 DSP/Amp was my choice), or even the 2 BMW targeted PnP options?

Would upgrading speakers give better SQ bang for buck? Can the HK RAM even power something like a Focal K2? (60W RMS rated). The K2s cost about the same as the Optim-8 here in Aus, so the value calculation is equal from that perspective.

[avi66]

Originally Posted by a9entjones

Thanks for your insights mate.

I spent some time with the EQ again today and have got an improvement over the preset. The 2kHz band was set quite low. I bumped that up and it sounds fuller now 🤘

I class myself as an advanced amateur, so excuse my ignorance. Are you saying that there's limited SQ gain from an aftermarket DSP (the Alpine Optim-8 DSP/Amp was my choice), or even the 2 BMW targeted PnP options?

Would upgrading speakers give better SQ bang for buck? Can the HK RAM even power something like a Focal K2? (60W RMS rated). The K2s cost about the same as the Optim-8 here in Aus, so the value calculation is equal from that perspective.

It’s impossible to say what each person will perceive when listening to music, hence the perception of “sound quality” isn’t a universal constant with humans, because all sorts of things affect individual perception, not least pre bias, acquired taste, hearing etc.

Think about it like arguing if coffee tastes better with or without sugar, and how people respond to its taste if the opposite sugar content is applied to what they normally drink. If you regularly have 4 lumps of sugar in coffee, and you are served an expensive coffee with no sugar, does it taste better compared to ordinary cheaper coffee with sugar ?

Personally, I try to avoid processes in the chain that create artefacts along the journey to my ears, which if you are familiar with how you perceive these, it can have detrimental affect, and imo source quality is a key factor, as is minimising lossy conversion steps in the chain.

That said it really depends on the human, just as beauty is in the eye of the beholder, audio perception is similar, hence if it sounds good to the individual, it is.

[a9entjones]

Bad metaphor. Coffee should never have sugar in it, just like beer should always be ice cold, and steaks cooked medium rare. Any other choices here is a flag for untrustworthiness 😜

Otherwise, point taken.

[a9entjones]

avi66 one more question if you don't mind? If I replace the fronts with the K2E Focals, is there some funky arrangement from the RAM to the OEM tweeter and mid that I need to be aware of? Are they fed as seperate channels from the RAM, or can I just use the speaker wire at the mid as the crossover input, then output to the mid and tweeter from the crossover as normal?
Thanks!

[avi66]

Originally Posted by a9entjones

or can I just use the speaker wire at the mid as the crossover input, then output to the mid and tweeter from the crossover as normal?
Thanks!

^ This.

[a9entjones]

Originally Posted by avi66

^ This.

I just found your pinout on this thread.
https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2068116

I've been doing some more research on the Alpine Optim-8 and I think I'm going to give it a crack, and add some Focal K2 to the front. I'll document the lot so that there's one more thread on here for audio builders to follow!

I might even make up some PnP add-a-sub harnesses so people have an alternative to the Technic offering, even if it's just for those outside of the US to escape the prohibitive postage cost.

You've been a massive help! Thanks again mate.

[a9entjones]

**Update**
When set to either GTO or Audio as the trigger, LC2i Pro keeps randomly powering which then turns the amp on too. I'm guessing there's some system that's systematically waking up, and the LOC is sensing some voltage through the booster that's generated as a result. Hasn't flattened my battery yet, but I'll be switching my trigger to a 12V source that only powers up on ignition.

Also, K2 ES100K2E and Alpine Optim-8 have been purchased. At the very least, my 0-100 times will be improved by the giant weight that has been removed from my wallet