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      06-25-2011, 10:35 AM   #1
XenaBimmer
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Radar hardwire

Anyone hardwire a radar detector into the X3 yet? I'll be getting a Passport 9500i w/ the hardwire kit, so I just need a good power source and ground to tie into
Thanks!
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      06-25-2011, 11:33 AM   #2
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I've seen several cars where owners have used the map light power feed in the overhead panel to power detectors. Haven't ever opened the overhead panel, but it should be easy to find the power feed to the (2) map light switches and a ground.

Don't forget to fuse the line to the detector - most detectors that plug in to a lighter socket include a fuse in the 12V. plug.

If you do pull the overhead panel and find the 12v. feed, please take a couple of pics and note the color of the 12V. feed line.
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      06-25-2011, 12:09 PM   #3
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I hardwired my Valentine1 in my X3 about two months ago and documented it here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...light=hardwire

There is a link to a F10 install (with pictures!) in there too, as it is bascially the same process. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK, as removing the center console (especially the middle 2 clips) is not as easy as I would have hoped.

Although I have the utmost respect for Lotus (I would not have a flashlight in my glovebox if not for him!), I would suggest NOT using the map light as it is continuously powered (unless you are good about remembering to turn of the detector). You need a power source that switches off when you turn off the car. DEFINITELY should fuse the line, however.

The color of the power source wire I used was brown and green and it headed down towards the rear view mirror. I believe (but am not sure) that this powers the HomeLink garage door opener. Either way it works fine, no errors. The Ground is easy, as there is a very evident big unpainted bolt screwed into the upper frame.

Also, I pulled the power wire so that it come out the side of the vanity light above the visor, so the wiring is just about invisible when the visor is up.

Suggest you stay away from any wires near the BMW Assist/Telematics area.

Good luck and proceed with patience.
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      06-26-2011, 02:07 AM   #4
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Totally concur. Using a switched line, rather than one that is continuously powered is certainly the preferred way to go.

Does the line you used (brown/green) switch off with the ignition, or is it one of the accessory circuits that powers down after the 10-15 minute delay?
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      06-26-2011, 09:53 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
Totally concur. Using a switched line, rather than one that is continuously powered is certainly the preferred way to go.

Does the line you used (brown/green) switch off with the ignition, or is it one of the accessory circuits that powers down after the 10-15 minute delay?
A great question to which, currently, I do not know the answer

My X3 is in the shop now getting fixed from when I was slightly rear-ended a couple of weeks back. When I get it back, I'll check and report.

I am so used to hitting the button twice when I leave the car that I don't notice.
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      06-27-2011, 07:45 AM   #6
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Thanks for the information so far!

Anyone try tapping into the fuse box? On my Cayman, I ran the power wire for the radar hardwire kit into the fuse box and wrapped it around a fuse that is only "hot" when the ignition is on (radar turns on and off with the car). My X3 is so new to me that I haven't even looked for where the fuse box is located though
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      06-27-2011, 09:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XenaBimmer View Post
Thanks for the information so far!

Anyone try tapping into the fuse box? On my Cayman, I ran the power wire for the radar hardwire kit into the fuse box and wrapped it around a fuse that is only "hot" when the ignition is on (radar turns on and off with the car). My X3 is so new to me that I haven't even looked for where the fuse box is located though
You can certainly do it that way, but it means running some fairly long wires. The overhead panel method that Alanintx used is a much more elegant solution.

FYI:

The X3 actually has (2) fuse boxes:

FB Number 1 is in the right rear fender area just below the gas filler neck. It's accessed by removing the interior fiber panel and then rolling back the insulation blanket below. You probably don't want to run wires to that one.

FB Number 2 is behind the glovebox (WAY behind the glovebox!) There is a small removable panel at the back of the glovebox (right side on N.A. cars) that when removed will let you SEE fuse box 2. However, the opening is very small, so you must either use some long nosed pliers or have a small child with tiny hands change fuses through the opening. The alternate way (probably the only way for most of us), is to remove the glove box mounting screws for better access. There are several circuits there that will work including the 12v. accessory feed which is automatically switched off after the car has been parked for 10-15 minutes. (fuse 54)

Fuse location diagrams attached:
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      06-27-2011, 10:33 AM   #8
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Thanks for the great info!
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      07-02-2011, 12:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
Totally concur. Using a switched line, rather than one that is continuously powered is certainly the preferred way to go.

Does the line you used (brown/green) switch off with the ignition, or is it one of the accessory circuits that powers down after the 10-15 minute delay?
Finally got my X3 back today after the work was completed to repair the damage from when it got rear-ended about a month ago. Like having a brand new car again. The BMW body shop did a great job.

I tested my V1 and found that it powers down within a couple of seconds after I hit the ignition button ONCE. It is NOT subject to the delay.

One of these days, I need to take a look at the F25 wiring diagram to confirm that the wire does power the Homelink.
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      07-02-2011, 02:10 AM   #10
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Would LOVE to see the complete X3 wiring diagram published, but am not holding my breath expecting it soon.
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      07-07-2011, 08:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
You can certainly do it that way, but it means running some fairly long wires. The overhead panel method that Alanintx used is a much more elegant solution.

FYI:

The X3 actually has (2) fuse boxes:

FB Number 1 is in the right rear fender area just below the gas filler neck. It's accessed by removing the interior fiber panel and then rolling back the insulation blanket below. You probably don't want to run wires to that one.

FB Number 2 is behind the glovebox (WAY behind the glovebox!) There is a small removable panel at the back of the glovebox (right side on N.A. cars) that when removed will let you SEE fuse box 2. However, the opening is very small, so you must either use some long nosed pliers or have a small child with tiny hands change fuses through the opening. The alternate way (probably the only way for most of us), is to remove the glove box mounting screws for better access. There are several circuits there that will work including the 12v. accessory feed which is automatically switched off after the car has been parked for 10-15 minutes. (fuse 54)

Fuse location diagrams attached:
I just received the hardwire kit in the mail so I'm going to try it this weekend. I'm wanting to keep the radar detector on the corner of the dash, so tying into the overhead console won't be a good option. So, I'm thinking that the best bet will be to either route into the fuse box or tap into wiring under/around the dash area.

--Anyone know of any good power and ground wires under the dash to tap into? I'm definitely looking for something that will turn on and off w/ the ignition

--If I do use the fuse box for the power supply, the fuse 54 that was recommended switches on and off with the ignition correct? Also, are there any good options in that area for the ground?
--Last question (I promise ;-) ), in the fuse box, which side of the outlet that the fuse plugs into is hot? (ie, the fuse has 2 prongs that plug into the right and left sides of the outlet, and it usually seems like a good idea to tap into the side of the outlet that does not have the 12v power hot all the time, that way the power you tap into runs through the fuse first before it runs into your power wire for the radar detector) I don't have a voltmeter so I don't want to just guess on this one
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Last edited by XenaBimmer; 07-07-2011 at 08:50 AM.
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      07-08-2011, 01:49 PM   #12
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bump
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      02-27-2012, 11:25 PM   #13
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I just purchased a hardwired ProClip for my iPhone 4s. NO instructions for wiring included or on their site.

I have found some instructions for wiring Radar detectors, but nothing definite for this kit.

Please help!

It is supposed to be a 2amp charger that ends in 2 wires. Fuse box? I would prefer connecting to a wire, as I am mounting it on the left windshield column and the fuse box is behind the glove box.
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      02-28-2012, 04:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XenaBimmer View Post
I just received the hardwire kit in the mail so I'm going to try it this weekend. I'm wanting to keep the radar detector on the corner of the dash, so tying into the overhead console won't be a good option. So, I'm thinking that the best bet will be to either route into the fuse box or tap into wiring under/around the dash area.

--Anyone know of any good power and ground wires under the dash to tap into? I'm definitely looking for something that will turn on and off w/ the ignition

--If I do use the fuse box for the power supply, the fuse 54 that was recommended switches on and off with the ignition correct? Also, are there any good options in that area for the ground?
--Last question (I promise ;-) ), in the fuse box, which side of the outlet that the fuse plugs into is hot? (ie, the fuse has 2 prongs that plug into the right and left sides of the outlet, and it usually seems like a good idea to tap into the side of the outlet that does not have the 12v power hot all the time, that way the power you tap into runs through the fuse first before it runs into your power wire for the radar detector) I don't have a voltmeter so I don't want to just guess on this one
Hint: Much easier using the power up in the overhead console. I documented my install somewhere on the forums last year. Have you looked at the location of the fuse box behind the glovebox? Gotta have really small hands to deal with that.
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      03-06-2012, 11:35 PM   #15
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I'm pulling out my hair trying to get this overhead console off.

I've followed some instructions scattered around these forums to no avail. I'm afraid that I'm going to break something so I want to be sure as to what I'm doing before I put too much pressure on anything.

Specifically, I can't find any good pictures of where the front two metal clips are located. When I peak over the lower plastic layer I can't see any clips. Most of what I can see are the bulbs for the reading lights and these rubber parts surrounding the lights. Where are the front clips in relation to these lights?

How do I disconnect the clips? Just get a good hold on the upper layer and yank the thing down? Do I need to pry the clips with a screwdriver?

I can see all the other metal clips. Just not the front ones.
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      03-07-2012, 01:11 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helm108 View Post
I'm pulling out my hair trying to get this overhead console off.

I've followed some instructions scattered around these forums to no avail. I'm afraid that I'm going to break something so I want to be sure as to what I'm doing before I put too much pressure on anything.

Specifically, I can't find any good pictures of where the front two metal clips are located. When I peak over the lower plastic layer I can't see any clips. Most of what I can see are the bulbs for the reading lights and these rubber parts surrounding the lights. Where are the front clips in relation to these lights?

How do I disconnect the clips? Just get a good hold on the upper layer and yank the thing down? Do I need to pry the clips with a screwdriver?

I can see all the other metal clips. Just not the front ones.

Very important - Do not force anything. You will be most unhappy if you break something. Do not YANK anything and stay away from the telematic wiring towards the rear of the console.

Look here, as there are pictures of the clips.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=515517

The F10 overhead console is very similar, but not exactly the same, as the F25 console.

I had no problem with the front clips. you just have to push them in with your finger while GENTLY pulling down.. The side clips, I still have not figured out exactly how they popped open.
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      03-07-2012, 10:42 AM   #17
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I was able to remove the overhead console, but not without cutting and bruising up my fingers in the process!!
IMO just try another route
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      03-07-2012, 11:54 AM   #18
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Quote:
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I was able to remove the overhead console, but not without cutting and bruising up my fingers in the process!!
IMO just try another route
Part of the secret:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks

These have come in handy for many years and many BMWs
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      03-07-2012, 05:50 PM   #19
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I've tried my damnedest, but I can't find these front clips anywhere. I've studied those pictures hard and they are no help. I think my X3 is just too different. When I pull down the plastic outer layer I see 3 lights facing the back of the car and a lot of other stuff that isn't a clip. I've stuck my fingers all up in there, and I can't feel anything. I can't see the side clips and have seen the back clips, but I can't get to either of those.

I think I'm giving up. I hate to have my radar detector connected to the cigarette lighter socket though.
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      03-07-2012, 06:13 PM   #20
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I ran a wire from the fusebox in the back and buried it in the trim. Valentine sells an attachment that plugs into the OBDII port and powers the detector. I'm going to get on at some point.
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      03-07-2012, 07:47 PM   #21
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Turns out those things in my way weren't light bulbs, they are motion sensors. That explains why my overhead console looks so different from others.
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      03-08-2012, 08:31 PM   #22
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Anyone know of any good mini fuses in the glove compartment that work? I've tried 1 and 65 to no avail.
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