[deviation01]

Hi guys,

All was going well and smooth but after removing all the bolts and everything the front trust arm can not be removed because of the axel being on the way.

Anyone got any suggestions? I tried moving the wheel around but not luck. I hope I don’t have to remove the axel to get replace this part.

Let me know or if anyone has the manual for it?

[deviation01]

Sorry forgot to add the picture.

I tried lifting the wheel up and no space really.

[deviation01]

Resolved. Have to take the axel nut out to give you enough space by pushing the axel back. Was hoping I don’t have to do that but not terrible.

[Burr001]

Originally Posted by deviation01

Resolved. Have to take the axel nut out to give you enough space by pushing the axel back. Was hoping I don’t have to do that but not terrible.

Just saw this...yeah need to remove axel nut, turn wheel slightly and slide arm out. Make sure you tighten the nut at ride height on the frame side.

[deviation01]

Originally Posted by Burr001

Just saw this...yeah need to remove axel nut, turn wheel slightly and slide arm out. Make sure you tighten the nut at ride height on the frame side.

Good tip I can see if I can reach the nut but I put everything back together. I think it’s ok or do you think it may cause issues down the line?

I torqued everything to spec. Took it for a drive and the steering feels buttery smooth.

[Burr001]

Originally Posted by deviation01

Good tip I can see if I can reach the nut but I put everything back together. I think it’s ok or do you think it may cause issues down the line?

I torqued everything to spec. Took it for a drive and the steering feels buttery smooth.

Well all you really need to do is use another jack to prop up the wheel hub so the arm is at ride height level , then tighten the nut. If not the bearing may...may wear faster because your creating it to bind at the dropped level, not at actual ride/driving level and creating friction.

like this video

for visual example.

[deviation01]

Originally Posted by Burr001

Well all you really need to do is use another jack to prop up the wheel hub so the arm is at ride height level , then tighten the nut. If not the bearing may...may wear faster because your creating it to bind at the dropped level, not at actual ride/driving level and creating friction.

like this video

for visual example.

So basically it’s just an extra precaution to do and not a critical something will fail when driving around a corner?

[Burr001]

Originally Posted by deviation01

So basically it’s just an extra precaution to do and not a critical something will fail when driving around a corner?

Well if you don't mind spending another 700 on new arms and bearings sooner then by all means.

Ok how about this...lets say your lying down and I tied a 100lb weight to your nut sack and only measured enough rope so its the shortest...

Now you stand up but since the line was only long enough from the height you were lying down and because the line is short and your nuts are being being pulled down by the 100 lbs, you think the extra strain is worth it than to adjust the line to the proper length at standing height?

[deviation01]

Originally Posted by Burr001

Well if you don't mind spending another 700 on new arms and bearings sooner then by all means.

Ok how about this...lets say your lying down and I tied a 100lb weight to your nut sack and only measured enough rope so its the shortest...

Now you stand up but since the line was only long enough from the height you were lying down and because the line is short and your nuts are being being pulled down by the 100 lbs, you think the extra strain is worth it than to adjust the line to the proper length at standing height?

What if the nuts are dropped so low they cover for the slack?

In all seriousness. Can I reach the nuts and bolts with the wheels on the ground?

Basically I have to loosen the bolt now and retighten?

[Burr001]

Originally Posted by deviation01

What if the nuts are dropped so low they cover for the slack?

In all seriousness. Can I reach the nuts and bolts with the wheels on the ground?

Basically I have to loosen the bolt now and retighten?

LMAO...if they touch the water in the toilet when you sit, then your fine I guess.


do you not have a 2nd jack? one to lift the car and one to lift the arm? or use a race ramp or use a tall enough sidewalk curb, your old stack of porn DVD's or use a stack of wood to place under the wheel on both sides after lifting, then lower it and let it sit on the high enough wood stack to crawl under and reach the nut and tighten....

[deviation01]

Originally Posted by Burr001

LMAO...if they touch the water in the toilet when you sit, then your fine I guess.


do you not have a 2nd jack? one to lift the car and one to lift the arm? or use a race ramp or use a tall enough sidewalk curb, your old stack of porn DVD's or use a stack of wood to place under the wheel on both sides after lifting, then lower it and let it sit on the high enough wood stack to crawl under and reach the nut and tighten....

Just one jack and jack stands. I’ll gave to get creative then.

[Burr001]

Originally Posted by deviation01

Just one jack and jack stands. I’ll gave to get creative then.

Brother, you already have what you need then...LOL. No need to get creative, Take a step back and reread what you just typed.

You have a jack and stands, so place vehicle on jack stands...then take said jack and place under the tire/arm and lift it to what would be/close to ride level and then tighten. if you feel the vehicle lifting off the jack stands you have gone too far and lower it a tad. OMG hahahaha.

[deviation01]

Originally Posted by Burr001

Brother, you already have what you need then...LOL. No need to get creative, Take a step back and reread what you just typed.

You have a jack and stands, so place vehicle on jack stands...then take said jack and place under the tire/arm and lift it to what would be/close to ride level and then tighten. if you feel the vehicle lifting off the jack stands you have gone too far and lower it a tad. OMG hahahaha.

Sorry just woke up and I love the drawing!

Haha I get that but I was thinking both sides need to be at equal level vs one at the time.

I was talking to a mechanical engineer that has done this upgrade as well he said because its a ball bearing the only thing that could cause it advance wear would be improper torque. He has had his for 40k miles and takes the car to the track often. Syncro also confirmed no need. I guess you can call me the forum Guinea pig.

[Burr001]

Bruh...maybe these are a better visual for you?

[Burr001]

Originally Posted by deviation01

Sorry just woke up and I love the drawing!

Haha I get that but I was thinking both sides need to be at equal level vs one at the time.

I was talking to a mechanical engineer that has done this upgrade as well he said because its a ball bearing the only thing that could cause it advance wear would be improper torque. He has had his for 40k miles and takes the car to the track often. Syncro also confirmed no need. I guess you can call me the forum Guinea pig.

ok then...just good to do things proper to limit wear. I am not a mechanical engineer but I am an art major and never slept at a holiday inn.

[deviation01]

Good examples and I understand why. However these are all rubber bushings vs ball bearing.

I will be the sample study of what happens when.

[deviation01]

Originally Posted by Burr001

ok then...just good to do things proper to limit wear. I am not a mechanical engineer but I am an art major and never slept at a holiday inn.

Thats quite the achievement. I saw somewhere a picture of you swimming to cuba with a cigar. Le Don Burrledon!

[Burr001]

Originally Posted by deviation01

Good examples and I understand why. However these are all rubber bushings vs ball bearing.

I will be the sample study of what happens when.

Okie dokie..

[deviation01]

btw I will post a video about this whole experience shortly for people that want to see the step by step but this quote came from Syncro about the topic.

Good question,
You can torque at any position, as it is a fully articulating monoball!

It does not bind in the same way that rubber does, so it's good for performance as well as air ride guys that change ride height.

[Burr001]

Originally Posted by deviation01

btw I will post a video about this whole experience shortly for people that want to see the step by step but this quote came from Syncro about the topic.

Good question,
You can torque at any position, as it is a fully articulating monoball!

It does not bind in the same way that rubber does, so it's good for performance as well as air ride guys that change ride height.

Lmao...I'm an ass...I didn't read the title, all this time I thought your were asking about installing oem arms..wtf.

[deviation01]

Originally Posted by Burr001

Lmao...I'm an ass...I didn't read the title, all this time I thought your were asking about installing oem arms..wtf.

HAHA no worries still your input was helpful as I am sure many people will have that question and it pushed me to do some research behind it.