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      11-10-2020, 09:56 PM   #1
one9kilo
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Software Update Problem - Car won't turn on of off

Hi Everyone,

So I'm stump and a bit in panic mode. I was in the process of recoding my RDC (replaced module for TPMS) and doing a complete software update. Everything was going smoothly until certain unit was not able to update (failed).

ISTA+ asked my to turn ignition off and put in driver seat belt but I can't turn of the ignition at all. The ignition button isn't working. That's when I realized I was in trouble.

- Currently the car ignition is on (car off)
- Power supply is attached to car.
- Genuine BMW ICOM is connect to laptop and car.
- I wants to rerun the update but ISTA is telling me to turn of "Terminal 15" and wait 10 sec and turn it back on. Terminal 15 is ignition??

hmmm.. Should I disconnect the battery and cross my fingers that the ignition button work. If it doesn't turn on I wont be able to redo the update on ISTA

Update: Disconnected the battery. Now the car won't turn on at all. Yikes... I might just have to tow the car

Last edited by one9kilo; 11-10-2020 at 11:41 PM.. Reason: Update
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      11-11-2020, 11:31 AM   #2
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Pretty much all you can do at this point.
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      11-11-2020, 11:51 AM   #3
pungo
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I'd ask in the BMW Coding and Programming forum for help.
Is this your first time programing modules?
Which module failed to update?
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      11-11-2020, 02:29 PM   #4
one9kilo
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Quick update..

So after disconnecting the battery the ignition won't turn on at all (not surprised) but I had to do it. Because the ignition can't turn on, the ISTA won't interface with the car. Pretty much screwed at this moment.

pungo From what I remember CAS failed the update but I don't remember what the others were and there were definitely others. According to the fault tree, my DME and EPKG is RED (no communication with those).

Yes, this is my first time programming. All I really wanted to do was code the new RDC (which succeeded). Didn't realized that ISTA was going to do a software update automatically.
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      11-11-2020, 02:58 PM   #5
one9kilo
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Basically I was trying to see if there is a way to interface with the car without the ignition on but most likely not. SUCKS!

I'm probably just going to get it towed to the dealership. Anticipating a big bill...

Not sure what went wrong.
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      11-11-2020, 06:48 PM   #6
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Try to use esys and see if you can flash CAS module again.
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      11-11-2020, 08:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one9kilo View Post
Basically I was trying to see if there is a way to interface with the car without the ignition on but most likely not. SUCKS!

I'm probably just going to get it towed to the dealership. Anticipating a big bill...

Not sure what went wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by willywi View Post
Try to use esys and see if you can flash CAS module again.
willywi is the coding magician
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      11-11-2020, 08:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALPx3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by one9kilo View Post
Basically I was trying to see if there is a way to interface with the car without the ignition on but most likely not. SUCKS!

I'm probably just going to get it towed to the dealership. Anticipating a big bill...

Not sure what went wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by willywi View Post
Try to use esys and see if you can flash CAS module again.
willywi is the coding magician
I'm just amateur, not really a professional. LoL
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      11-11-2020, 09:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willywi View Post
Try to use esys and see if you can flash CAS module again.
e-sys can communicate with with modules without terminal 15 on? I've always pressed the start button without pressing the brake pedal (which I assume turns terminal 15 on) to use e-sys.
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      11-11-2020, 09:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pungo View Post
e-sys can communicate with with modules without terminal 15 on? I've always pressed the start button without pressing the brake pedal (which I assume turns terminal 15 on) to use e-sys.
oops, I thought in first post OP said "Currently the car ignition is on"
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      11-11-2020, 09:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one9kilo View Post
Quick update..

So after disconnecting the battery the ignition won't turn on at all (not surprised) but I had to do it. Because the ignition can't turn on, the ISTA won't interface with the car. Pretty much screwed at this moment.

pungo From what I remember CAS failed the update but I don't remember what the others were and there were definitely others. According to the fault tree, my DME and EPKG is RED (no communication with those).

Yes, this is my first time programming. All I really wanted to do was code the new RDC (which succeeded). Didn't realized that ISTA was going to do a software update automatically.
I didn't know ista would update the software unless you specifically instructed it to.

Have you looked at the ista log files? They may at least show what things went wrong. \EC-APPS\ISTA\Logs\

I've been wanting to update all applicable modules since I have an early 2011 build with original as built versions and there's some missing features, but I'm concerned something may go wrong. Besides I don't have an icom so would need to use esys which may be even riskier.
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      11-12-2020, 01:26 AM   #12
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I will take a look at the logs. Yea.. I was sitting there trying to come up with an alternatives but honestly I had to send it to the dealership. I don't have Esys either. Even if I did, I can't communicate with the car. I could roll the dice and replace the CAS myself but that's seem to be digging a bigger hole.

ISTA updated software when I "execute measured plan" in attempt to just code the RDC. Was there a way on ISTA to code just the RDC alone apart from other modules?

To be fair, I anticipated that ISTA will do that but I didn't think something would go wrong. Battery was good. I had a power supply hooked up and a genuine ICOM connected. I even sat in the car afraid to open the door to get out during the update LOL.

I did try to roll down the window during the process tho... that can't be it can it????

Whatever. It's life. Car is currently are the dealership but won't be checked up until tomorrow.

As with whether you should update your vehicle. I say hold off until you REALLY need to lol. What pisses me off is that I really didn't need to!

Anyways, thanks all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pungo View Post
I didn't know ista would update the software unless you specifically instructed it to.

Have you looked at the ista log files? They may at least show what things went wrong. \EC-APPS\ISTA\Logs\

I've been wanting to update all applicable modules since I have an early 2011 build with original as built versions and there's some missing features, but I'm concerned something may go wrong. Besides I don't have an icom so would need to use esys which may be even riskier.

Last edited by one9kilo; 11-12-2020 at 01:29 AM.. Reason: Grammar
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      11-15-2020, 04:19 PM   #13
one9kilo
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Update:

Dealership fixed the issue. They did what I expected them to do - Reset CAS module, remove corrupt software and then update everything. I expect it only took them less than an hour to do; although, I paid for 2 hours of "work."

I'm pretty sure some of the tech geniuses on here would be able to do the same. I don't have the knowledge base to tackle the issue myself. Plus, I don't have an other program beside ISTA+.

Total cost was $470. Here is the interesting part. They tried to charge me $750 and blamed it on computer issue for the price error. The guy stated that the computer automatically prints out the price which I think is BS since the hours and rates wasn't even inputted.

Anyways. All is good.
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      11-15-2020, 04:34 PM   #14
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I tried to replace my battery myself and the car was very sick with the new battery. Struggle to get it to crank, then it would refuse to start. Worried I messed up a computer. Old battery back in, it worked fine.

Never got the car in good enough shape to reprogram the car to the new battery.

Like you, not enough tools and this type of experience to fix myself.
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      11-15-2020, 05:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevink1 View Post
I tried to replace my battery myself and the car was very sick with the new battery. Struggle to get it to crank, then it would refuse to start. Worried I messed up a computer. Old battery back in, it worked fine.

Never got the car in good enough shape to reprogram the car to the new battery.

Like you, not enough tools and this type of experience to fix myself.
Hmmm.. if the battery has the exact same specs it shouldn't be an issue. Registering the new battery should help and it's any easy process if you have ISTA or a BMW specific OBD tool that can do it (i.e. Carly, etc.).
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      11-15-2020, 06:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevink1 View Post
I tried to replace my battery myself and the car was very sick with the new battery. Struggle to get it to crank, then it would refuse to start. Worried I messed up a computer. Old battery back in, it worked fine.

Never got the car in good enough shape to reprogram the car to the new battery.

Like you, not enough tools and this type of experience to fix myself.
Batteries have no smarts in them and installing a new battery should start the car even without setting the correct capacity or registering it. The new battery may have been on the shelf too long and needed a proper charge

Setting the correct capacity and registering is a must once the new battery is installed and working to get the best life from the new battery, but in your case you didn't get that far.
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      11-15-2020, 07:39 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevink1 View Post
I tried to replace my battery myself and the car was very sick with the new battery. Struggle to get it to crank, then it would refuse to start. Worried I messed up a computer. Old battery back in, it worked fine.

Never got the car in good enough shape to reprogram the car to the new battery.

Like you, not enough tools and this type of experience to fix myself.
Sounds like a bad battery...
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      11-16-2020, 04:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6MT_Addict View Post
Sounds like a bad battery...
It was tested when I returned it to the store, and tested good. And the cranking was energetic. Odd. Saw a post on the interwebs after I returned it that suggested unplugging the battery for 10 or so minutes and trying again. But by that time the battery had been returned.

I went this route since the closest dealership was quoting $525. I ended up getting it done for $260 or so at another dealership which if I had known was that cheap I would have just gone that route to begin with.
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      11-16-2020, 05:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevink1 View Post
It was tested when I returned it to the store, and tested good. And the cranking was energetic. Odd. Saw a post on the interwebs after I returned it that suggested unplugging the battery for 10 or so minutes and trying again. But by that time the battery had been returned.

I went this route since the closest dealership was quoting $525. I ended up getting it done for $260 or so at another dealership which if I had known was that cheap I would have just gone that route to begin with.
Agreed, if you have problems installing and getting a good battery to work, it's probably best to take it to a professional to have it done.
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