[theboxsaysno]

I’ve been wanting to do a heads-up display (HUD) retrofit for some time. I have a F25 X3 BMW 35ix with all the tech features except HUD. Well the time finally came when my windshield broke so why not pay the little extra for HUD now.
Vehicle: 2013 BMW X3 with Navigation, CIC head unit, surround camera, etc.


HUD Background
On the F25 BMW, the HUD unit relies on the Instrument Cluster (KOMBI) and the CIC Headunit (CIC) for operation. The HUD uses an HSD cable to connect to the KOMBI, a power/ground line over to the front electronics module (FEM) and k-can High/Low to communicate with the car. The windshield is different for HUD and has a third layer that allows the image from HUD to be reflected on the windshield. This also requires a different rain sensor that supports solar, so the HUD knows how bright to make the image.

Parts
I used realoem.com to lookup my vin and find the corresponding parts for HUD. Realoem.com will list several part numbers for the same thing, searching ebay for all of them found me the best price. I had to be careful to check the label as some had different non-compatible numbers on the label. I will list the part numbers I used for my retrofit and what I paid. As always, e-sys cable and e-sys installed to code the car are a must.

Required parts:


Procedure
Total time teardown: 1 hour, total modification time: 1.5 hours, total assembly time: 1.5 hours. Total: 4-5-hour job.

Removing the dash is out of the question, it must be done. I found there is just no room in between the windshield and mounting location for HUD. In addition, when the HUD was installed, there was no room to even get my hand in there let alone get the unit out. First, I checked my instrument cluster to see if it supported HUD, it didn’t (no surprise). I then removed the glove box and CIC head unit to run the wires and test out the HUD. I coded the car before doing anything else. After the HUD was plugged in and car coded I tested to make sure it was working before starting the dash removal. Everything worked fine and then I removed the dash. Cutting the hole in the dash certainly took the most time as I didn’t want to over cut and have holes in my dash I couldn’t cover with the trim. Next I had to drill two holes in the frame where the HUD is mounted since the factory didn’t drill them. This was tricky as I had no reference on where exactly the holes should be drilled and where the HUD should sit. After mounting the HUD and connecting the wires I reinstalled the dash, hooked the battery backup and had the windshield replaced with the rain/solar sensor. All good and working great!

Instrument Cluster
Pull down the instrument cluster and check for HUD HSD Adapter (beige) no beige HSD adapter, no HUD.

Mine did not meaning that I had to find one. Quick search found one from ebay for 70. I always confirmed from the pictures that it had the beige adapter.

Now a couple of things to note about instrument clusters. Each instrument cluster has mileage and vin stored in a chip that can only be modified by using special hardware/software. In some cases you have to de-solder the ship, etc. I don’t have the skills for soldering or the money to go buy the programmer just for this one thing. What I did was open the back panel on both instrument clusters and swapped out the video chips. Since nothing vehicle specific is stored in this video card, it was easy and no mess/time trying to get a used cluster to work. Besides most clusters on ebay are from wrecked cars. I’ve had some fail after a few weeks so I’ll keep my good cluster and sell the other one for parts.




Mock wire HUD for testing
After getting the instrument cluster ready for HUD, I wanted to test everything out before I dove into removing the dash. I removed the glove box using the T20 socket. Three screws hold the bottom kick plate in and a I grabbed the two screws on either side for the glove box while I was down there. On the inside of the glove box there are a few more screws. Once I had these out, the glove box will slide out with a little wiggle. Disconnecting the glove box light and the USB HSD cable and it was out.

Now I could access the Front Electronics Module and Junction box. I ran the black wire (ground) from the repair kit to the FEM middle adapter Pin 26. Next the power line was run to the junction box Pin 2, fuse 25 (5amp). This would give me power and ground for the HUD.




Next I needed to grab the k-can High/Low lines so the car could talk to the HUD. The easiest place for me was grabbing these off the CIC head unit. I removed the center console trim, AC/controls and finally the CIC unit itself. On the bundle of wires is a twisted orange with green tracer and solid green line. Using the two taps, I connected the two twisted lines from the repair cable using the BMW taps.

Coding
Three components needed coding to support HUD. The instrument cluster (KOMBI), CIC, and the HUD itself. I started by opening e-sys and connecting to my F25 Car. From there I clicked on Coding and read the FA. I then saved the FA to my desktop and clicked the Edit button. Finding the bottom most folder gave me a list of vehicle options. I needed to add 610 to the list to tell the car that it now had HUD. Having saved the modified FA file, I clicked to VCM. In the VCM I loaded the FA from my desktop. In the top folder I right clicked and calculated SP so the software would recalculate all the options that needed changing to use HUD. Lastly I clicked write FA to car. Next I clicked on Coding again and e-sys asked if I should reload the FA, which I clicked yes.



Now I need to do a first time setup on the HUD. I scrolled down to HUD and clicked on it directly and then clicked Detect CAF for SWE. This brings up a screen to select which i-step (version of software). I clicked the one with the highest numbers this created a CAFD file now. Next I scrolled back down to HUD and clicked on the new CAFD icon, right click - > CODE. The HUD is now coded for my car.


Now, I need to recode the KOMBI and HU_CIC. I clicked on each, one at a time and right clicked the CAFD line and selected - > Code. This defaults the KOMBI and CIC so that they now can use HUD. I had some customizations in HUD and KOMBI, but if something didn’t work it would be easier to troubleshoot if both units were defaulted and I could add my customizations back in later.


Testing HUD
With wiring and coding complete, I left the HUD sitting in the seat and turned the car on. The mirror in the HUD tilted up and the image of my speed was displayed. Success! Now I know everything works and will move to tearing the dash out.

Removing Dash
At this point, I disconnected the battery and started to remove the various components, steering wheel, steering column trim, airbags, a-pillar trim etc. I only removed the center console trim and cup holder. Center speaker was taken out as there is a wire under it attached to the dash.

16mm or 5/8 to remove steering wheel nut.

After getting the mounting bolts out (T30). I lifted up a little and pulled straight back popping the dash out of the clip on the driver side and then I moved to the passenger side lifting slightly and pulling straight back. I was then able to lift the dash out rotating it upwards and out.

Cutting Dash
This was by far the trickiest part. If I cut too much and the trim didn’t hide any overcuts, then I’d be looking for a new dash. I started by leaving about half an inch from the edge of the impression on the dash and just used a Dremel with cutting wheel to take a little off and try and fit the trim piece. On the underside of the dash where the instrument cluster goes I could use the hard plastic part as a guide. There were three holes I used a cutting bit to make. This did take quite a bit of time, but I had to go slow. Once the trim fit and I was happy with how it looked, I cleaned up the edges.





Mounting HUD
Mounting the Hud involved drilling two holes in the frame where the HUD sat. I couldn’t find any templates online as to how far back from the edge the HUD should sit so I had to guess. I lined up everything putting the left corner as far back as I could. Marked the hole with a sharpie and then drilled with ¼ bit. I screwed in the left side and then tried to figure out where to mount the right side. In hindsight I would have tried to make the plastic screen on top more straight with the driver. Meaning to have the right side mount closer to the driver. Nonetheless, I marked the sharpie again, drilled and mounted it. I then made sure to connect the wire harness and HSD cable and move them out of the way. When I put the dash in there won’t be any room to get them plugged in.



Reinstall Dash
With the HUD mounted and dash cutout, I proceeded to put the dash back in making sure to catch the three mounting latches against the firewall. After the dash was fitted in, I fished around for the center speaker wire so that I won’t have to lift the dash to get it. Then I just proceeded to put everything back in reverse of when I took them apart.

Wrap up
With any install, I connected the battery crossing my fingers something didn’t blow. Car started right up and the HUD came to life. The image from the HUD may have low brightness until the solar sensor in the windshield is replaced. The image will also be blurry and double until the windshield is replaced.

After a more than half a year, I am still happy with the upgrade.
Full video:

Cheers!

[WagonR]

wow. That's impressive. A quick search seems to show a lot of variability in the prices, and the windshield is probably the biggest bogie, but either way, thank you for sharing.

[red96m3]

That is impressive! You sir, are dedicated. I would have just brought one with HUD and sell the old one... 👍

[stamsd]

You are a brave soul Sir. Well done.

Edit- Just watched the video. Makes me feel like tearing my bathroom down to the studs was not that complicated.

[aspame82]

Excellent, this is the video i was needing. I have all the parts. Good work mate!!

One question, does anybody with stock HUD and 6WA succeeded in retrofitting 6wb working together with hud?

I am planning to make this retrofit but no sure if it 6wb will interact with hud-

[willywi]

Impressive I think if I'm going through all the trouble of retrofitting HUD why not change the headunit too NBT/ EVO look much better than CIC.

[agent_orange]

Well done.

Having also just done this recently on my F25, what I would add is that the aluminium frame under the dash on factory HUD cars not only has the M6 threaded holes there, but also machined flat surfaces that cut at least 2-3mm into the metal, and more towards the front (of car) than the back.
This is why there is a gap between the 3rd mounting hole on the heatsink part the bottom and the dash frame part that goes over the steering column when sat on a non-HUD frame.

I found this due to being lucky to have another F25 with factory HUD parked beside this one, and could pop out the trim and have a look down the sides of the HUD to eyeball the hole positions, and then saw the milled flats as well.
Was too late by that stage to try and buy a HUD dash frame from a wrecker.

It means that when mounted on top of the cast frame surface with 2 of the 3 screws like we did, the HUD will be tilted back slightly and sit a little too high.
This is backed up by the gap between the trim and the HUD clear screen ending up about 10mm at the rear and zero at the front, while a factory HUD car is about 4-5mm gap all around.
Still works fine, but may affect the adjustable image height range.

[magpies14]

Excellent... i have been waiting for this retrofit steps to pull the trigger on one...

[karlshea]

At 17:38 in your video some music starts and you can't really hear what you're saying after that.

[TEF]

I live just 80 miles to the east in Erie. If I were to drop off my car with you for a HUD install, could I get it back the same day? Seriously, the research for this project seems amazing.

[aspame82]

hi, do you think is possible to fit the hud taking out the windshield without removing dashboard?

[theboxsaysno]

Originally Posted by agent_orange

Well done.

Having also just done this recently on my F25, what I would add is that the aluminium frame under the dash on factory HUD cars not only has the M6 threaded holes there, but also machined flat surfaces that cut at least 2-3mm into the metal, and more towards the front (of car) than the back.
This is why there is a gap between the 3rd mounting hole on the heatsink part the bottom and the dash frame part that goes over the steering column when sat on a non-HUD frame.

I found this due to being lucky to have another F25 with factory HUD parked beside this one, and could pop out the trim and have a look down the sides of the HUD to eyeball the hole positions, and then saw the milled flats as well.
Was too late by that stage to try and buy a HUD dash frame from a wrecker.

It means that when mounted on top of the cast frame surface with 2 of the 3 screws like we did, the HUD will be tilted back slightly and sit a little too high.
This is backed up by the gap between the trim and the HUD clear screen ending up about 10mm at the rear and zero at the front, while a factory HUD car is about 4-5mm gap all around.
Still works fine, but may affect the adjustable image height range.

That would have been amazing to have a car to look at for reference. I think I drilled mine to far forward. Could you tag a photo of where the mounting holes were for others? Thanks

[theboxsaysno]

Originally Posted by aspame82

hi, do you think is possible to fit the hud taking out the windshield without removing dashboard?

Honestly, this was my first approach, it may have worked, but when I started to cut the dash, I found a sharp knife wasn't cutting through the bottom layer of plastic in the dash. And I also couldn't' see the reference lines to cut. I used a Dremel cutter and it started creating a huge mess everywhere, so I stopped and just took the dash out instead.

[aspame82]

clear, thank you theboxsaysno

[agent_orange]

Originally Posted by theboxsaysno

That would have been amazing to have a car to look at for reference. I think I drilled mine to far forward. Could you tag a photo of where the mounting holes were for others? Thanks

This is where I drilled 5mm and tapped to M6 thread to suit the factory bolts.
Pretty confident in the positions being within a few mm having had another car to directly compare to, but big disclaimer: This is on an RHD car.
If you mirror the picture it should hopefully match what you see in an LHD car.

[theboxsaysno]

Originally Posted by agent_orange

This is where I drilled 5mm and tapped to M6 thread to suit the factory bolts.
Pretty confident in the positions being within a few mm having had another car to directly compare to, but big disclaimer: This is on an RHD car.
If you mirror the picture it should hopefully match what you see in an LHD car.

Thanks for posting the photo! I think that's where I missed, I drilled it further towards the front of the car.

[dtox9]

Silly question... (I don't have HUD in my F25)

Does your HUD immediately switch OFF with your ignition?

Or does it shut down after 5-10 mins like the power ports do?
(I assume it's a switched ACC circuit)

[najnad]

Originally Posted by dtox9

Silly question... (I don't have HUD in my F25)

Does your HUD immediately switch OFF with your ignition?

Or does it shut down after 5-10 mins like the power ports do?
(I assume it's a switched ACC circuit)

immediately off with ignition

[theboxsaysno]

Originally Posted by dtox9

Silly question... (I don't have HUD in my F25)

Does your HUD immediately switch OFF with your ignition?

Or does it shut down after 5-10 mins like the power ports do?
(I assume it's a switched ACC circuit)

On the F25 the HUD image stops displaying when you switch the ignition off. When the car goes to sleep you'll hear the HUD mirror rotate to sleep state so that the sun doesn't reflect into the image component. So... similar to the power ports.