[SROC3]

     Featured on BIMMERPOST.com

So I've seen custom jobs done here and i really don't want to go that route. It's a lease so something I can throw in the trunk and then easily remove is preferable. I saw these two on Amazon....Recommendations?:

https://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-BTA85...gateway&sr=8-1

OR

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESEE2TS...v_ov_lig_dp_it

OR

https://www.amazon.com/MTX-RT8PT-Uni...H0ZHFB9HDKVPNT

Feel free to send me existing threads I may have missed and call me a loon

[Eclimax13]

Throwing the microsub+ by jl audio in mine. Dual 8 inch w3v3 with integrated 500 watt amp. Had it in my last car and it is impressive for it's size.

[SROC3]

Originally Posted by Eclimax13

Throwing the microsub+ by jl audio in mine. Dual 8 inch w3v3 with integrated 500 watt amp. Had it in my last car and it is impressive for it's size.

This one? or the 500W dual version version right? - https://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-ACP1...y&sr=8-1-fkmr2

I'm sure it's strong but I'm looking for the smallest footprint possible.

[Lux700]

Originally Posted by SROC3

So I've seen custom jobs done here and i really don't want to go that route. It's a lease so something I can throw in the trunk and then easily remove is preferable. I saw these two on Amazon....Recommendations?:

https://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-BTA85...gateway&sr=8-1

OR

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESEE2TS...v_ov_lig_dp_it

OR

https://www.amazon.com/MTX-RT8PT-Uni...H0ZHFB9HDKVPNT

Feel free to send me existing threads I may have missed and call me a loon

I’d say that the types of subs you are looking will be ideal for your needs. I’d make sure you research to find out which are currently the ones to consider. Like most things, it’s usually a case of you get what you pay for, so for a decent performer they’ll be a bit kore expensive. The other benefit of these types of subs is that you can simply unplug them and leave it in the garage if you need the full boot /trunk space.

I have a 1200w Vibe sat in my garage, I just need to get around to having the trailing connector plug installed to my car for some very deep bass and air movement...

[SROC3]

Originally Posted by Lux700

I’d say that the types of subs you are looking will be ideal for your needs. I’d make sure you research to find out which are currently the ones to consider. Like most things, it’s usually a case of you get what you pay for, so for a decent performer they’ll be a bit kore expensive. The other benefit of these types of subs is that you can simply unplug them and leave it in the garage if you need the full boot /trunk space.

I have a 1200w Vibe sat in my garage, I just need to get around to having the trailing connector plug installed to my car for some very deep bass and air movement...

I just want a SMALL footprint and something to complement the existing underseat woofers. I was thinking this might work too, but kinda pricey. Form factor looks great though.
https://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-ACP1...y&sr=8-1-fkmr2

[Lux700]

If you are anything like me, you’ll want to be able to hear it in action before you buy. Either that, or a cast-lron recommendation, from a trustworthy source. Unfortunately, I don’t know much about the JL shown in your link, so wouldn’t be able to say. It could be superb but, as I say, hard to know without hearing or it being strongly recommended.

[ktmsmr12]

Originally Posted by SROC3

I just want a SMALL footprint and something to complement the existing underseat woofers. I was thinking this might work too, but kinda pricey. Form factor looks great though.
https://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-ACP1...8;sr=8-1-fkmr2

I've had a lot of JL stuff over the years. All have performed very well. This should add some lower punch, but remember it's still an 8" sub which is going to struggle on deep bass notes below 30-40hz. If you are going to put it in the "hole" under the rear floor cover, it will also get muffled somewhat. I've always thought the sweet spot was a 10" sub with 400-500rms watts, but that may not fit in that area.

I have an Audiomobile GTS2110 2-ohm 10" sub that's driven by a RF PBR500x1 and it's amazing for using only .75 cu ft in a sealed enclosure. Not that expensive either.

Whatever you decide, please let us know your results. I too would like a little more low end with my HK system in my X3 M40i.

[derklink]

Originally Posted by ktmsmr12

I've had a lot of JL stuff over the years. All have performed very well. This should add some lower punch, but remember it's still an 8" sub which is going to struggle on deep bass notes below 30-40hz. If you are going to put it in the "hole" under the rear floor cover, it will also get muffled somewhat. I've always thought the sweet spot was a 10" sub with 400-500rms watts, but that may not fit in that area.

I have an Audiomobile GTS2110 2-ohm 10" sub that's driven by a RF PBR500x1 and it's amazing for using only .75 cu ft in a sealed enclosure. Not that expensive either.

Whatever you decide, please let us know your results. I too would like a little more low end with my HK system in my X3 M40i.

Could this one be directly hooked up to the amp in the trunk?

[Eclimax13]

Originally Posted by ktmsmr12

I've had a lot of JL stuff over the years. All have performed very well. This should add some lower punch, but remember it's still an 8" sub which is going to struggle on deep bass notes below 30-40hz. If you are going to put it in the "hole" under the rear floor cover, it will also get muffled somewhat. I've always thought the sweet spot was a 10" sub with 400-500rms watts, but that may not fit in that area.

I have an Audiomobile GTS2110 2-ohm 10" sub that's driven by a RF PBR500x1 and it's amazing for using only .75 cu ft in a sealed enclosure. Not that expensive either.

Whatever you decide, please let us know your results. I too would like a little more low end with my HK system in my X3 M40i.

You'd be surprised at how low this setup goes. I was shocked. Came from a 12w6v2 before the dual 8's. The convenience factor of having an all in one system more than makes up for those last few hz.

[Eclimax13]

Originally Posted by SROC3

This one? or the 500W dual version version right? - https://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-ACP1...y&sr=8-1-fkmr2

I'm sure it's strong but I'm looking for the smallest footprint possible.

I have the dual setup that was very impressive in a lincoln mkz I had before this car. Now I can't wait to hear them in an open cabin.

[ktmsmr12]

Originally Posted by Eclimax13

You'd be surprised at how low this setup goes. I was shocked. Came from a 12w6v2 before the dual 8's. The convenience factor of having an all in one system more than makes up for those last few hz.

I agree that the dual 8" JL setup probably sounds very good. I was just saying that with a single 8 it isn't going to play super low notes. I would imagine it will sound way better than our stock HK system does though.

[ktmsmr12]

Originally Posted by derklink

Could this one be directly hooked up to the amp in the trunk?

You'll need to explain what you mean. I wouldn't run any real sub off the factory amp for a few reasons. Impedance namely. Also the power output of our factory amp is not suited for a larger power hungry sub.

[Eclimax13]

Originally Posted by ktmsmr12

I agree that the dual 8" JL setup probably sounds very good. I was just saying that with a single 8 it isn't going to play super low notes. I would imagine it will sound way better than our stock HK system does though.

I don't know. The stock harmon/kardon is quite good. Excellent actually. So good that I've been debating on whether to install the sub system or leave everything alone. Even though install will be super easy with the battery being in the trunk.

[SROC3]

So just did this today.....But I need some help with tuning the AMP EQ for the woofer. The sound coming from the woofer is kinda "muddy" and I want tighter and cleaner. Any help would be appreciated for the settings

10in Focal and Alpine Amp. Getting a smaller box built in a week.

IMG_4562 by P LL, on Flickr

IMG_4563 by P LL, on Flickr

IMG_4565 2 by P LL, on Flickr

[No1Cares]

damn that thing is huuuuuuggggeeeeeeeeeee!

[derklink]

Originally Posted by ktmsmr12

You'll need to explain what you mean. I wouldn't run any real sub off the factory amp for a few reasons. Impedance namely. Also the power output of our factory amp is not suited for a larger power hungry sub.

Sorry, I know little to nothing about car hi-fi. I was just wondering how the JL audio sub would connect to the HK system. Sure it needs power from the battery but I guess it needs its own amp, too? I'd be interested in it if it fit in the housing under the trunk cover and if the install was no bid deal.

[ktmsmr12]

Originally Posted by SROC3

So just did this today.....But I need some help with tuning the AMP EQ for the woofer. The sound coming from the woofer is kinda "muddy" and I want tighter and cleaner. Any help would be appreciated for the settings

10in Focal and Alpine Amp. Getting a smaller box built in a week.

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7868/...d51f5e52_c.jpg[/img]IMG_4562 by P LL, on Flickr

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7886/...26d42c83_c.jpg[/img]IMG_4563 by P LL, on Flickr

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7806/...7a9c5f16_c.jpg[/img]IMG_4565 2 by P LL, on Flickr

Amp settings- Gain at Nom. Try LP filter at 80hz since it's a 10". Bass adjustment I would start at zero +0. Muddiness can come from having too much air volume or not enough power. What model and rated power is that Alpine? I assume the sub is designed for a sealed enclosure?

Are you using high-level or low-level inputs on the Alpine amp? Are you using a Line out converter and then going to amp? I assume you tapped speaker outs from the amp in the driver's side rear compartment?

BTW, Focal makes good stuff.

[ktmsmr12]

Originally Posted by derklink

Sorry, I know little to nothing about car hi-fi. I was just wondering how the JL audio sub would connect to the HK system. Sure it needs power from the battery but I guess it needs its own amp, too? I'd be interested in it if it fit in the housing under the trunk cover and if the install was no bid deal.

No problem at all. This forum is for learning. The JL setup the OP listed in his link is the powered version which includes a built in amp, sub, and enclosure all in one. You still need to provide power from the battery (easy in our M40i's since battery is right in back area) and a stereo full range signal from a speaker output.

I've heard you can tap the speaker out wires from the HK amp in the back. Might be able to use full range or the sub outs that go to the subs under the front seats, but that signal is going to already be cut down by the amp.

[derklink]

Originally Posted by ktmsmr12

No problem at all. This forum is for learning. The JL setup the OP listed in his link is the powered version which includes a built in amp, sub, and enclosure all in one. You still need to provide power from the battery (easy in our M40i's since battery is right in back area) and a stereo full range signal from a speaker output.

I've heard you can tap the speaker out wires from the HK amp in the back. Might be able to use full range or the sub outs that go to the subs under the front seats, but that signal is going to already be cut down by the amp.

Thanks!

[ktmsmr12]

I want to add a sub in that empty hole under the rear cover but I don't want to cut a hole in the rear floor cover to "vent" it.

[dereksM3]

Originally Posted by ktmsmr12

I want to add a sub in that empty hole under the rear cover but I don't want to cut a hole in the rear floor cover to "vent" it.

Physically venting a sub isn't required, bass is omnidirectional and although location is fairly important in a "hatchback" vehicle cutting a hole would only be needed if there was physical limitations that obstructed subwoofer excursion. There are already a few who have built boxes to go under the rear shelf that are totally hidden.

[SROC3]

Originally Posted by ktmsmr12

Amp settings- Gain at Nom. Try LP filter at 80hz since it's a 10". Bass adjustment I would start at zero +0. Muddiness can come from having too much air volume or not enough power. What model and rated power is that Alpine? I assume the sub is designed for a sealed enclosure?

Are you using high-level or low-level inputs on the Alpine amp? Are you using a Line out converter and then going to amp? I assume you tapped speaker outs from the amp in the driver's side rear compartment?

BTW, Focal makes good stuff.

Hey THANKS - those adjustments made it sound much better!!!....lol. Still not quite there though. This shop I went to really didn't know their stuff....ANNOYING.

- That Alpine AMP is an MRV-M500:
500W RMS X 1 (2Ω, 14.4V, ≤1% THD+N)
300W RMS X 1 (4Ω, 14.4V, ≤1% THD+N)
Evolution To Class D Digital Platform

The Focal:
10in Focal 25A4 Access Series
spider decompression ventilated coil
high SPL
power range: 50-200 watts RMS (400 watts peak)
frequency response: 36-500 Hz
top-mount depth: 5"
sealed box volume: 0.52-0.88 cubic feet
ported box volume: 0.71-1.23 cubic feet
sensitivity: 85.4 dB at 2.83 volts

I think I'm using low level inputs? (RCA Cables)

IMG_4570 by P LL, on Flickr

Are you using a Line out converter and then going to amp? I assume you tapped speaker outs from the amp in the driver's side rear compartment?

Yes to both?

IMG_4568 by P LL, on Flickr

Also - they gave me really crappy RCA wires....If you have a suggestion on what to get that is good quality from Amazon please suggest away.

They are supposed to make a smaller enclosure for me - just FYI.

Question:
- Would getting that wiring harness from Technic make a marked difference in sound?