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      12-28-2017, 09:24 AM   #1
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BMW 2011 F25 Problems

Hi Guys,

Its been a while since I have posted. I have a 2011 F25 3.0L with only 60kms no accidents. This winter my car started giving me all kinds of issues;
-Wipers Turn on and off when I start the engine
-Wipers keep going on even after I start driving, they stop probably after 20mins+ of driving
-Interior lights don't work
-Steering lights come on probably after 20mins of driving
-At times doors don't unlock I try everything, eventually after a few times it would unlock. Also when i park the car and get out, the alarm goes off.

I took it to a reputable shop which specializes in BMW and there was a like over 100 codes. So they reset everything for me and said lets wait and see. The guy said it is most likely the ICM Module, which would need to be replaced and re-programmed. Part is like $1700 CAD not including the labour costs.

Any help or advise would be great! If it is the ICM to be replaced, do I have to get it from the BMW Dealership?


Thanks.
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      12-28-2017, 11:11 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feroz View Post
Hi Guys,

Its been a while since I have posted. I have a 2011 F25 3.0L with only 60kms no accidents. This winter my car started giving me all kinds of issues;
-Wipers Turn on and off when I start the engine
-Wipers keep going on even after I start driving, they stop probably after 20mins+ of driving
-Interior lights don't work
-Steering lights come on probably after 20mins of driving
-At times doors don't unlock I try everything, eventually after a few times it would unlock. Also when i park the car and get out, the alarm goes off.

I took it to a reputable shop which specializes in BMW and there was a like over 100 codes. So they reset everything for me and said lets wait and see. The guy said it is most likely the ICM Module, which would need to be replaced and re-programmed. Part is like $1700 CAD not including the labour costs.

Any help or advise would be great! If it is the ICM to be replaced, do I have to get it from the BMW Dealership?


Thanks.
Probably ECM. Dealership only AFAIK. Has the VIN electronically etched and needs to be programmed to have same mileage as cluster & LCM, otherwise the tamper dot will show. If different VIN there is no chance to even start the car. I believe part has to come from Germany pre-programmed for your specific car/vin.

There are people who "can" do it on salvaged modules, but these are a handful throughout N America. Dealer cannot program/etch the vin - this is the issue. Programming a salvaged ECU for your car's model & mileage is easy. The same goes for LCM.
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      12-28-2017, 11:20 AM   #3
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Oh ok, I get what you saying..I was reading up on some other posts, some guys said they changed the battery and it was re-solved. Since the weakness in voltage it triggers the other issues. I haven't tested the battery yet but that should have come up on the codes if it was the issue.
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      12-28-2017, 11:49 AM   #4
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It is possible to have a battery problem that brings up spurious codes. I have had most of your list except for the wiper problems. I did not have to replace the battery because it was partially flat when it happened to me twice in 2 weeks.

The most sensible route (I did this 2 years ago) is to eliminate the battery first before spending any more money. I would recommend you seriously consider purchasing a CTEK MXS 5.0 battery charger (Advanced charging with temperature compensation) and if your are able charge the battery for at least 48 hours, and take it from there. I am surprised the dealer did not recommend that first.

Here is the information:

MXS5.0 Advanced all round charger

The MXS 5.0 is an advanced microprocessor controlled battery charger with automatic temperature compensation built in providing unrivalled performance on batteries from 1.2Ah up to 110Ah. The MXS5.0 solves a broad range of battery problems and is the ideal charger for the user with high demands. Features of the MXS 5.0 include diagnosis of battery condition to establish if it can receive and retain charge, patented automatic desulphation programme and a special reconditioning function that will revive and restore deeply discharged and stratified batteries. AGM mode is perfect for maximising performance and life of most Stop-Start batteries. The built in temperature compensation ensures ideal charging performance even in the most extreme conditions. Patented Float/Pulse maintenance makes the MXS 5.0 ideal for long-term maintenance.

UK Amazon link (naturally yours will be a different URL):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-MXS-5-.../dp/B00FC42HAA

Note. CTEK make a charger for BMW. I suggest you do not bother with it, because it is only a trickle charger.
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      12-28-2017, 12:03 PM   #5
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So you're saying, charge the battery for 48 hours with a battery charger and see if the problems go away. Did you end up buying a battery from the dealership?
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      12-28-2017, 12:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feroz View Post
So you're saying, charge the battery for 48 hours with a battery charger and see if the problems go away. Did you end up buying a battery from the dealership?
No! I did not purchase a new battery. I am still using the same one. It is a heavy duty one normally supplied to the Canadian market. It is an unusual fit for the UK say BMW, but they say it is most likely because the car has many extra electrical options specified by BMW Head Office when they imported it as management car, and used it for 9 months.

By the way, we have had some relatively cold weather here by UK standards over the past few days and the car has not moved for nearly 3 weeks and I was lax and did not put the battery on charge.

When I started the vehicle this morning, there was no problem with it starting, in fact it fired up immediately, but the car told me to reset the time/date. This made me suspicious leading me to put my CTEK charger on it immediately. This losing of the time and date was the first warning of a run down battery I had previously.

Note. If you charge the battery, ensure you do it in-situ and only use the negative and positive terminals under the bonnet/hood. This ensures the cars electronics are guarded against damage.
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      12-28-2017, 01:45 PM   #7
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And make sure you use a battery charger specifically for AGM batteries.

Tony
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      12-28-2017, 01:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brissim View Post
And make sure you use a battery charger specifically for AGM batteries.

Tony
That is exactly why I gave the specification....

MXS5.0 Advanced all round charger

The MXS 5.0 is an advanced microprocessor controlled battery charger with automatic temperature compensation built in providing unrivalled performance on batteries from 1.2Ah up to 110Ah. The MXS5.0 solves a broad range of battery problems and is the ideal charger for the user with high demands. Features of the MXS 5.0 include diagnosis of battery condition to establish if it can receive and retain charge, patented automatic desulphation programme and a special reconditioning function that will revive and restore deeply discharged and stratified batteries. AGM mode is perfect for maximising performance and life of most Stop-Start batteries. The built in temperature compensation ensures ideal charging performance even in the most extreme conditions. Patented Float/Pulse maintenance makes the MXS 5.0 ideal for long-term maintenance.
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      12-28-2017, 02:24 PM   #9
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Appreciate it guys...I checked on Amazon for the MSX 5.0 but only available in UK or Aus, I will order shortly...So I haven't used one of these before..I am assuming its plug and play..wait for the battery to be fully charged..and how long does the battery last? If the battery doesn't charge, then the battery most likely will need a replacement!
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      12-28-2017, 03:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feroz View Post
Appreciate it guys...I checked on Amazon for the MSX 5.0 but only available in UK or Aus, I will order shortly...So I haven't used one of these before..I am assuming its plug and play..wait for the battery to be fully charged..and how long does the battery last? If the battery doesn't charge, then the battery most likely will need a replacement!
It is more or less automatic once you have connected it up to the mains supply and to the car and selected the correct settings using the mode button.

Make sure of the following....

Car symbol is lit up yellow light.
AGM mode symbol is lit up yellow light.
There are 8 stages. 1 to 6 (amber/yellow) followed by 7 green. Not sure what #8 is.

You cannot do any damage as it is microprocessor controlled.

I cannot give you a length of time it takes to charge up. It might have to go through a conditioning charge. You will have to see. Once the light for setting 7 is reached it should be good to go. I just checked mine and it is still on setting 4. It can take quite a while as it senses what it needs to do.

I use mine a lot in the winter. In the summer I never use it.

Edited. Went to check mine this morning and is was on #7 and green light.

Last edited by Peter_R; 12-29-2017 at 08:24 AM..
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      12-28-2017, 06:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feroz View Post
Appreciate it guys...I checked on Amazon for the MSX 5.0 but only available in UK or Aus, I will order shortly...So I haven't used one of these before..I am assuming its plug and play..wait for the battery to be fully charged..and how long does the battery last? If the battery doesn't charge, then the battery most likely will need a replacement!
The OE trickle charger will work similarly.

It's a relabeled Deltran Battery Tender Plus (which will also work).

If you prefer the MSX, they go by CTek in the states.
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      12-28-2017, 07:50 PM   #12
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Is there much difference between the 4.3 vs the 5.0 chargers
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      12-29-2017, 04:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG_KID View Post
Is there much difference between the 4.3 vs the 5.0 chargers
Have look on youtube.



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      12-29-2017, 06:16 AM   #14
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I have been using Noco smart chargers for a few years. It's another alternative in case you can't obtain a CTEK
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      12-29-2017, 06:42 AM   #15
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Alrite cool..will keep you guys posted once I try this..thanks
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      01-22-2018, 07:00 AM   #16
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Update...

Hey guys..so I tested my battery and it was done..I just went ahead and change the battery to a new one..The problems seems like somewhat gone..

What I wanted to ask when you install the battery, do you have re-program the entire computer or just the battery? If not the computer, how can I re-program/reset the entire computer? I want to make sure the ICM is fully resetted so I can test out the car with the new battery.

Hope someone can help out. Thanks.
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      01-22-2018, 10:07 AM   #17
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you need to tell the ECM that there is new battery and what kind it is. You would need to be able to do coding or have a BMW indy or dealer do it. It only takes a few minutes.
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      01-23-2018, 10:14 AM   #18
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So discovered this morning. With the temperature been at -11 the car started doing the same issues when i started it. It seems like the ECM acts up when its cold outside and car isn't warm enough. Now I dunno if I should get the ECM resetted fully since I installed the battery or if its the ECM all together.
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Last edited by feroz; 01-24-2018 at 06:54 AM..
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      01-25-2018, 09:10 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feroz View Post
So discovered this morning. With the temperature been at -11 the car started doing the same issues when i started it. It seems like the ECM acts up when its cold outside and car isn't warm enough. Now I dunno if I should get the ECM resetted fully since I installed the battery or if its the ECM all together.
There was something about a service buletin a number of years ago about the ECM not insulated well or water getting in... let me search. What happened was it would heat up and then condensation would form inside of it. That led to issues with the ECM.

Might want to ask your dealer about that. I realize the car is out of warranty, but that might point you in the right direction.

It was actually posted on this form about 6 years ago.
Bulletin Number: SIB-12-07-11
BMW: THE ENGINE WILL NOT START BECAUSE THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT PARTITION WALL IS FITTED INCORRECTLY ALLOWING WATER TO DRIP ONTO THE CONNECTOR STRIP OF THE DME CONTROL UNIT LEADING TO INTERNAL DAMAGE OF THE DME. E70/E71. *RM
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      01-26-2018, 07:18 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jman103099 View Post
There was something about a service buletin a number of years ago about the ECM not insulated well or water getting in... let me search. What happened was it would heat up and then condensation would form inside of it. That led to issues with the ECM.

Might want to ask your dealer about that. I realize the car is out of warranty, but that might point you in the right direction.

It was actually posted on this form about 6 years ago.
Bulletin Number: SIB-12-07-11
BMW: THE ENGINE WILL NOT START BECAUSE THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT PARTITION WALL IS FITTED INCORRECTLY ALLOWING WATER TO DRIP ONTO THE CONNECTOR STRIP OF THE DME CONTROL UNIT LEADING TO INTERNAL DAMAGE OF THE DME. E70/E71. *RM
Thanks buddy. I will check it out with the dealership. It's frustrating to be honest.
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      12-18-2018, 12:48 PM   #21
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Problem SOLVED!!

Hey guys,

So after months, I have finally got this solved. Thought I post it, as it can help someone down the line. So I ended up going with the dealership. They detected that it was my JBE Control Unit which FAILED which caused all those electronics to go crazy.

They replaced it with a new one and re-program everything. It costed me around $1000~ which is costly but rather than spending on trial and error, it was done correctly.

Hope this post helps anyone! Thanks for all you guys trying to help out.

Feroz
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      01-16-2019, 12:00 PM   #22
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Hi. I have a X3 2012, and needs a Battery replacement. Can i use a Battery thats NOT AMG technology?
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