[Skotcoop]

Came across a 2 owner 2017 X3 Xdrive35i with 38k miles. Space gray with ivory interior. Loaded with options and I think the only thing I doesn't have are the LED headlights, dynamic steering package, and rear window shades. I will be going to test drive it Monday morning and wondering what I should look for. I'd provide a link but Carmax removed the listing after I requested a transfer of the vehicle to a closer store.
My brother already ran the VIN at work but its 5UXWX7C57H0U40023 if someone wants to look it up. History looks clean, though there isn't any maintenance listed. Maybe someone knows more about it.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by Skotcoop

Came across a 2 owner 2017 X3 Xdrive35i with 38k miles. Space gray with ivory interior. Loaded with options and I think the only thing I doesn't have are the LED headlights, dynamic steering package, and rear window shades. I will be going to test drive it Monday morning and wondering what I should look for. I'd provide a link but Carmax removed the listing after I requested a transfer of the vehicle to a closer store.
My brother already ran the VIN at work but its 5UXWX7C57H0U40023 if someone wants to look it up. History looks clean, though there isn't any maintenance listed. Maybe someone knows more about it.

Get yourself an OBD reader and smartphone app like BimmerLink, plug it in the X3 and see for yourself what codes have been registered. Write them all down or do screen captures on your phone. Then take it for a long test ride and rescan when you get back, looking for new codes. You could reset the codes before going on the test drive.

If you find codes that you are concerned about, you can use them as a negotiation tool and research them when you get home to see if they are something to be concerned about. Not all codes are bad. You can plug the codes into this online BMW code reader and see what they mean https://bmwfault.codes

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by Skotcoop

Came across a 2 owner 2017 X3 Xdrive35i with 38k miles.... I will be going to test drive it Monday morning and wondering what I should look for.

If the car looks good and you get serious about buying, you should look for an independent mechanic who can perform a pre-purchase inspection.

Happy shopping! / Bill

[383vett]

It should still be under warranty. If it looks good, drives good, you like it, the price is right and carfax is clean, write the check. Look carefully for overspray. Cars are usually in good shape at 38k.

[scostu]

Originally Posted by Skotcoop

Came across a 2 owner 2017 X3 Xdrive35i with 38k miles. Space gray with ivory interior. Loaded with options and I think the only thing I doesn't have are the LED headlights, dynamic steering package, and rear window shades. I will be going to test drive it Monday morning and wondering what I should look for. I'd provide a link but Carmax removed the listing after I requested a transfer of the vehicle to a closer store.
My brother already ran the VIN at work but its 5UXWX7C57H0U40023 if someone wants to look it up. History looks clean, though there isn't any maintenance listed. Maybe someone knows more about it.

BMW vin decoder.... will list every option you have on that vin.

https://decoder.bvzine.com/

[pungo]

Nice it has the M Sport pkg, too bad it has M suspension delete, unless you want a softer more floaty yet comfortable ride. Not sure why so many of the M sport got the softer standard suspension?

Not sure why the carfax didn't show any maintenance? A dealer should be able to look up the maintenance history.

[Skotcoop]

Originally Posted by pungo

Nice it has the M Sport pkg, too bad it has M suspension delete, unless you want a softer more floaty yet comfortable ride. Not sure why so many of the M sport got the softer standard suspension?

Not sure why the carfax didn't show any maintenance? A dealer should be able to look up the maintenance history.

Where did you see it has the suspension delete? I wouldnt mind the stiffer suspension since I don't have a family who will be in it. So the sportier the better.

[Skotcoop]

Well I drove it and the brakes were complete mush. And quite a bit of surface rust. Never felt such soft brakes before. And the body damage was completely unacceptable. On both sides near the gap between the front and rear doors were nearly identical dents. Not sure how someone even manages that.

[stamsd]

Unless the dealer wants to fix those dings at no cost, that would be a no go. Looks great next to the tires with the Armor-all. When we were looking for one there was one at a dealer who completely neglected to mention there was a similar (and larger) dent even after I asked if there were ANY issues with the car. What a waste of time. On another note, the brakes just look like it's been sitting on a lot for a bit.

[Skotcoop]

Originally Posted by stamsd

Unless the dealer wants to fix those dings at no cost, that would be a no go. When we were looking for one there was one at a dealer who completely neglected to mention there was a similar (and larger) dent even after I asked if there were ANY issues with the car. What a waste of time. On another note, the brakes just look like it's been sitting on a lot for a bit.

Yeah I passed on it as they have no interesting in spending that kind of money at a loss. Carmax prices aren't negotiable either. There's another one I'm looking at in SoCal at the BMW Monrovia dealership. Looks cleaner and its a CPO.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Skotcoop

Where did you see it has the suspension delete? I wouldnt mind the stiffer suspension since I don't have a family who will be in it. So the sportier the better.

Options should list one of these:

• 223 Electronic Damper Control (EDC)
• 225 Standard suspension (a.k.a. "Sport Suspension Delete on M-sport)
• 226 Sport suspension

I test drove a vehicle with 226 then 225 back to back, and the 225 had much more body lean and less sporty handling then the 226. The suspension on 223 is controlled with the push of a button for different handling characteristics, has variable steering and also larger anti-sway bars.

[383vett]

That body does look pretty rough. Looks like someone did a brush touchup on the top picture.

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by Skotcoop

Yeah I passed on it as they have no interesting in spending that kind of money at a loss. Carmax prices aren't negotiable either. There's another one I'm looking at in SoCal at the BMW Monrovia dealership. Looks cleaner and its a CPO.

keep shopping, you will find the right car. I've been driving Bimmers for 15+ years, every one I've purchased was used, one owner and purchased from that original owner (private party).... ive found a real key in shopping used is patience, it can take sometimes several months to locate the right car but it pays off in the end, if you have the time available to you and aren't pressed to get a vehicle.

not that it matters, I wonder if that car came from East Coast? it's not that old but seems like excessive rust on the brakes....maybe it's just me, I'm used to buying West Coast cars and they rarely have much rust anywhere.

Good luck/Bill

[Skotcoop]

Originally Posted by 383vett

That body does look pretty rough. Looks like someone did a brush touchup on the top picture.

Yeah CarMax did their best to clean it up. Can only imagine what it was like before.

[Skotcoop]

Originally Posted by Wgosma

keep shopping, you will find the right car. I've been driving Bimmers for 15+ years, every one I've purchased was used, one owner and purchased from that owner (private party).... ive found a real key in shopping used is patience, it can take sometimes several months to locate the right car but it pays off in the end, if you have the time available to you and aren't pressed to get a vehicle.

not that it matters, I wonder if that car came from East Coast? it's not that old but seems like excessive rust on the brakes....maybe it's just me, I'm used to buying West Coast cars and they rarely have much rust anywhere.

Good luck/Bill

Says it's originally from eastern Washington, Spokane area. And I'm pretty sure they don't salt. I hear ya on the search. It gets stressful trying to make sure you get the right car. I've pulled the trigger too early on several private party purchases in the past. I do like CPO's if the price is good.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Skotcoop

Well I drove it and the brakes were complete mush. And quite a bit of surface rust. Never felt such soft brakes before. And the body damage was completely unacceptable. On both sides near the gap between the front and rear doors were nearly identical dents. Not sure how someone even manages that.

Pretty sure that vehicle came from a serious salt belt due to the amount of rust on the brakes for only a 3 year old vehicle. I hate working on rusty parts and if the brakes looked that bad, imagine how rusty the undercarriage components are. You were smart to pass, there are many more vehicles out there that people took better care of and look 100% better.

I hate carmax, sure they have some nice vehicles, but I don't trust them. I saw a X3 35i M-sport at carmax online with the same exact spec as one I looked at from a private party sale a month earlier. When I looked at the private party sale, there were numerous condition issues, curb rash on all rims, dent in roof from a bike, door dings down both sides, oil leaks at front of engine, valve cover, coolant leak at reservoir, entire engine bay had 1/8" of blackish sticky road grime and many other less then perfect conditions issues. The owner proudly showed me the folder of all the repairs, which were numerous(think lemon), then I saw the bill for the rear end collision for $15,000 when the vehicle was a few months old. Needless to say I passed, but carmax had this same vehicle (I had the VIN) listed with a clean history showing no accidents. Don't know why the accident didn't show up on the history report, but they detailed it and put it up for sale. I'm sure they didn't repair the oil leaks, just cleaned them up since they weren't drastic. I called them out on the accident, but they just said it looks really good and come in and drive it to see. I'll never buy a carmax vehicle due to my experience with them. YMMV

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by Skotcoop

Says it's originally from eastern Washington, Spokane area. And I'm pretty sure they don't salt. I hear ya on the search. It gets stressful trying to make sure you get the right car. I've pulled the trigger too early on several private party purchases in the past. I do like CPO's if the price is good.

helps when buying used to list priority of options important to you; it's rare you'll ever find the exact configuration you desire, always some tradeoffs, something missing....that's nature of used car buying. just know what you are willing to forgoe and what are your must haves- that helps decision making process. Rare one finds a used car that is in xlnt condition AND checks all the boxes on your desired configuration.

When you find the right one, pay mechanic to look over the car-money in the bank when it comes to BMW cars.

[ga9213]

FWIW using the brakes as a litmus test for rust is a bad bet, as the calipers and most parts are cast iron or steel and will take on surface rust within seconds of contact with high PH water alone (tap water).

The only thing stopping that is the zinc coating which fails very quickly with aggressive wheel cleaners.

This rust is of no real concern.

As an example, I picked up my F25 a month ago from Chicago and here's what the calipers look like.




However the undercarriage is extremely clean with only some minor surface rust on some bolts that is easily mitigated with some silicone lubricant or fluid film to keep the bolts from further rusting.




Don't lose out on a great car over a non issue!




As for the mushy feel I had the same on my F25 I recently bought. The OEM pads were junk IMO and the fluid needed a change.

Flushed fluid with Cheap Prestone DOT 4 and threw on centric posi-quiet semi-metallics and it brakes like an entirely new vehicle. Pads were about 50 bucks for front and rear.

[scostu]

Originally Posted by pungo

Nice it has the M Sport pkg, too bad it has M suspension delete, unless you want a softer more floaty yet comfortable ride. Not sure why so many of the M sport got the softer standard suspension?

Not sure why the carfax didn't show any maintenance? A dealer should be able to look up the maintenance history.

The F25 LCI came either with standard suspension or MAdaptive. The static sport suspension was no longer an option.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by ga9213

FWIW using the brakes as a litmus test for rust is a bad bet, as the calipers and most parts are cast iron or steel and will take on surface rust within seconds of contact with high PH water alone (tap water).

The only thing stopping that is the zinc coating which fails very quickly with aggressive wheel cleaners.

Don't lose out on a great car over a non issue!

As for the mushy feel I had the same on my F25 I recently bought. The OEM pads were junk IMO and the fluid needed a change.

That's strange you say the calipers rust within seconds of getting tap water on them. I live in the mid atlantic where we get some snow with salted roads, have 3 BMWs 2001/2007/2011 and none of them have rusty calipers.



I've looked at vehicles from the snow belt areas and there was rust on the brakes and undercarriage fasteners, so I passed. I'll always take a vehicle outside a snow belt over one from the snow belt. Here on the east coast many of the used car dealers will bring cars down from the north east and they're easy to spot by looking under the hood and the suspension due to the corrosion.



BMW pads are known for their great initial bite and stopping power. From my experience, I've never had any lack of braking from BMW pads, if anything, they grab too quickly. Once they wear out, I replace them with Akebono for lower dust, not because the stock pads junk, as you stated.

[ga9213]

Originally Posted by pungo

That's strange you say the calipers rust within seconds of getting tap water on them. I live in the mid atlantic where we get some snow with salted roads, have 3 BMWs 2001/2007/2011 and none of them have rusty calipers.

The bare cast iron calipers do, within literally seconds of getting them wet...if the zinc coating has worn off.

If your 3 BMWs did not, it's because the zinc coating had not worn off.

I once attempted to remove all rust from a set of calipers of mine by using a rust removing gel. I was delighted when after several applications, they were as clean as a whistle. Then I rinsed the gel off and to my horror the gel took off every bit of zinc that was remaining and they immediately turned bright red from immediately rusting from the tap water I used to rinse the gel off.

Originally Posted by pungo

I've looked at vehicles from the snow belt areas and there was rust on the brakes and undercarriage fasteners, so I passed. I'll always take a vehicle outside a snow belt over one from the snow belt. Here on the east coast many of the used car dealers will bring cars down from the north east and they're easy to spot by looking under the hood and the suspension due to the corrosion.

Some people are more intimidated by rust than others...depending on what mitigation they are willing to take as well as an understanding of what is considered problem rust and what is considered surface rust.

Some people will pass on a vehicle that has some rust on fasteners that is nothing more than a surface coating and that rust can be stopped in its tracks by someone that knows what they are doing and get years and years of good serviceable life out of a vehicle.

I've restored several vehicles so I have some experience now with rust, removing it, and understanding the difference...just passing on what I've learned.

Originally Posted by pungo

BMW pads are known for their great initial bite and stopping power. From my experience, I've never had any lack of braking from BMW pads, if anything, they grab too quickly. Once they wear out, I replace them with Akebono for lower dust, not because the stock pads junk, as you stated.

Most of their pads I agree, but the ones stamped BMW on my F25 were no bueno. To be fair they were grabbing the rotors poorly and the fluid was original with 60k miles. Regardless, Centric pads are great alternatives with low dust for a semi-metallic, quiet and fantastic initial bite. I was proposing to OP that squishy brakes can be easily remedied. Nothing more.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by ga9213

Some people are more intimidated by rust than others...depending on what mitigation they are willing to take as well as an understanding of what is considered problem rust and what is considered surface rust.

I have more than my fair share of experience dealing with rust over the last 45 years, from a 68 Mustang fastback, 1976 Bronco to a 96 4Runner. I'm well aware of the difference between surface rust and rust that has truly compromised the metal (cancer). With 2 equal make/model/optioned vehicles, I'll take the one outside of the salt belt over in the salt belt every time. Personally, I just don't buy vehicles from the salt belt, but that's just me, others can do whatever they want.

Tip: I spray QMaxx on vulnerable exposed parts periodically which reduces corrosion. It's intended for marine use, but it works really well for automotive use too. I've also used Fluid Film, but it's messy and a dirt magnet; therefore prefer the QMaxx.

https://www.qmaxxproducts.com/product/salt/