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      11-26-2011, 06:32 PM   #1
mibmwx3
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Questions on tire storage and wear

Just had my winter wheels and tires installed today. I took them home to store because I wanted to give them a thorough cleaning and waxing. My brother stacked them all on top of each other and they're too heavy for me to lift. I'll only be able to clean the top one. They only have about 20 miles on them since I washed them so they are pretty clean but I wanted to clean the backs and wax them.

Guess that I should just have stored them at the dealer. Besides I bought a snow shovel with a metal edge on the way to get the wheels and tires swapped. I didn't notice that they had placed the metal edge over one wheel and it scratched the wheel.

What is the best way to store them? Right now they're stacked on top of each other on top of a couple pieces of cardboard on the cement garage floor.

The Goodyear LS2's have about 5000 miles on them. They are a little worn on both the inside and outside edges. Is this normal?
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      11-26-2011, 07:37 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mibmwx3 View Post
Just had my winter wheels and tires installed today. I took them home to store because I wanted to give them a thorough cleaning and waxing. My brother stacked them all on top of each other and they're too heavy for me to lift. I'll only be able to clean the top one. They only have about 20 miles on them since I washed them so they are pretty clean but I wanted to clean the backs and wax them.

Guess that I should just have stored them at the dealer. Besides I bought a snow shovel with a metal edge on the way to get the wheels and tires swapped. I didn't notice that they had placed the metal edge over one wheel and it scratched the wheel.

What is the best way to store them? Right now they're stacked on top of each other on top of a couple pieces of cardboard on the cement garage floor.

The Goodyear LS2's have about 5000 miles on them. They are a little worn on both the inside and outside edges. Is this normal?
Storing them stacked on their side is a good way to minimise the space that they take up. I do it with all my tires. As you've found, washing and waxing the wheels before stacking is the preferred way to go. After washing, I also like to give the sidewalls an application of a decent rubber preservative. There are many to choose from at any price point from plain-old Amour All to the more expensive brands like Zaino Z-16 or Mother's FX. For off-season storage in a dry garage, it really does not make much difference which one you use. Just remember to ONLY put it on the sidewalls, never on the tread surface.

I do recommend putting a layer of plastic polyethylene foam over each of the wheels and then a couple of layers of cardboard to prevent scratching. I also place an inverted large plastic bag over the stack to keep everything clean. The bag has a few vent holes to allow some air circulation. I also inflate them all to 38 psi before stacking.

Your tire wear looks "normal" for 5K miles for tires that have been run at the factory recommended pressures or slightly lower. At the factory settings, you can expect slightly more edge wear, especially on the fronts. I find that increasing tire pressures by a few psi at both ends, while maintaining the factory recommended pressure differential, not only evens out wear across the tread, but also improves transient handling and absolute cornering power.

The factory recommended pressures for my X3 are 32psi (F) and 35psi (R) for light load operation. I now run mine at 35psi (F) and 38psi (R) and adjust pressures on a monthly basis. Check your owner's manual for the correct pressures for your tire size and operating conditions (load) and then add 2 or 3 psi to each tire.

Have you personally checked your new winter tires for the correct pressure(s)? Based on personal experience, I would not trust any dealer to set them correctly.

One of several "stacks" in the garage and basement:
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Last edited by Lotus7; 11-26-2011 at 07:53 PM..
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      11-26-2011, 07:49 PM   #3
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Thanks Lotus. I'll follow your suggestions.
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      11-26-2011, 08:04 PM   #4
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Thanks Lotus. I'll follow your suggestions.
If you can find a "helper" to lift and then re-stack the wheels, it will be a lot easier and safer. The run-flat tires/wheels do weigh a lot more than non-RFTs. Mine are around 70 lbs. each so they definitely are in the "back injury" class. With two people lifting, you don't have to cantilever the tire so far and you're only lifting 35 lbs. or so. Be safe!
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      11-26-2011, 08:42 PM   #5
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Does the top tire look at 5k miles like a younger version of my unevenly worn and cupped tire at 15k miles?
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      11-27-2011, 11:39 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
Have you personally checked your new winter tires for the correct pressure(s)? Based on personal experience, I would not trust any dealer to set them correctly.

The fronts are 32 psi, one rear is 34 psi and the other 30 psi, so looks like I'll need to add some air. I also noticed that the caps are lose and spin around. I don't remember that they did that before. Are they one size fits all and just not attached securely?
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      11-27-2011, 01:35 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by mibmwx3 View Post
The fronts are 32 psi, one rear is 34 psi and the other 30 psi, so looks like I'll need to add some air. I also noticed that the caps are lose and spin around. I don't remember that they did that before. Are they one size fits all and just not attached securely?
That's exactly what I mean about not trusting dealers to set the tire pressures correctly! Having only 30 psi in a rear X3 tire is almost criminal.

Remember to reset the TPM system (use iDrive and then drive the car) once you have the tires set to the correct pressures (cold).

What size winter tires did you purchase?
The factory spec for your summer 245/45R19 size is 32 (F) and 38(R). I'd try 35psi (F) and 41psi(R) as a starting point. If the ride is "too hard" for your taste, you can drop it a few psi.

If your winter tires are a different size, the optimum pressures will also be different.

If your tires have the standard small plastic valve caps, they should be turned clockwise until they are finger tight. If they continue to turn and don't tighten, the caps are stripped. It's easy to do if they are overtightened. You can replace them at any auto parts store. There is only one size for the "Schrader" valve caps. The size was standardized in 1893 in the US and has become one of the longest lasting standard parts on cars worldwide.

BMW recommends using only plastic caps, because metal ones can corrode if not maintained properly. I use theft-proof chrome plated brass caps, but check pressures each month and can lube the threads if they look like they need it.
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      11-27-2011, 06:26 PM   #8
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I have the 245/50/18 Dunlop 3D's for winter, so will ask them to fill them to 35 front and 38 rear.

I should have been clearer on the caps. I was talking about the center caps. They were taken off from my 309's and put on 307's. They shouldn't move, should they? The valve stem caps are fine.
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      11-28-2011, 01:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mibmwx3 View Post
I have the 245/50/18 Dunlop 3D's for winter, so will ask them to fill them to 35 front and 38 rear.

I should have been clearer on the caps. I was talking about the center caps. They were taken off from my 309's and put on 307's. They shouldn't move, should they? The valve stem caps are fine.
Oh, the center caps!
The center caps just snap in place and, depending on the wheel (center hole diameter) may be a tight fit or may spin a little. The ones on my winter (aftermarket) wheels all can be turned, and (2) of the (4) the original ones on my factory wheels can rotate if I put a little pressure on them while cleaning the BMW logo.

35 and 38 should work fine for your 3Ds. I'm waiting for the first prediction of real snow here to install mine.

Please remember that the winter tires use a softer, more flexible rubber compound in the tread and will feel a little less responsive. They also will typically have somewhat less traction on dry pavement, especially in panic stops and can "lock up" a little easier and trigger the ABS system. You should take it easy (don't try to set any lap records at Grattan) until they have a few hundred miles to be "worn-in" on your X3.
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      11-28-2011, 06:37 AM   #10
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Great info as always Lotus. I still haven't had chance to clean and wax mine but I am going to use your cardboard separator and plastic bag tips
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