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      06-16-2011, 09:30 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by flash3 View Post
Given you have first hand experience with the products, when you get the chance, can you link me to the one(s) you use on the vinyl/plastic pieces inside the car and for the seats?

I'll order them there after.
MA78 - I would like to know the exact products and the process you use on the inside

Thanks!
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      06-16-2011, 10:32 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by MA78 View Post
I don't know who would say that a new car doesn't need to be waxed. That's just crazy. Claying is also essential if you're going to get your wax to lay down properly. Polishing though? Seems a bit much. I suppose there might be some dealer installed swirl marks if you let them wash your car before you pick it up. In that case you may want to have it polished. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself though. Paint correction is a skill that takes a very long time to learn. And I doubt you want to practice on your new car.
It's not a matter of the finish not NEEDING to be waxed, but instead is to allow full curing of the paint. Some paints require up to 5 weeks to reach their full hardness. This is less so with modern low VOC paints, but it's still considered a good idea to not put anything on the paint except clean water until it's fully cured (wax can slow down or interfere with the process). Depending on temperature and UV exposure (higher temps.and more sunlight speed up the curing process), 4 or 5 weeks after the paint is applied, is usually enough.
car was ready April 13th and delivered on April 15th, so I'm assuming it's reached it's 5 week min, no?
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      06-16-2011, 10:51 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by gareth12468 View Post
No, but I did my Space Gray in Meguiar's: Pro Show Car Glaze #7-Pro Polymer Sealant #20-Pro Hi-Tech yellow wax. The finish is like the deep end of a pool.
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      06-17-2011, 03:26 PM   #70
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Boy, how did I miss THIS thread?? And after all the abuse I took for chiming in on the Car Wash thread... whew.

I'm certainly not a pro, nor am I the biggest perfectionist on the block - but on average I spend about 6 hours per week washing our two cars (X3 and X5). Until recently aquiring the X3, I had an E90 which was a tad easier to clean, just in terms of square footage and height.

My first caveat is that discussing brands of wax, polish, and other cleaners is like talking politics or religion sometimes, so hopefully everyone is being tolerant of everyone else's brand loyalties....

Over the past few years, I have been using more and more Griot's products. To the point that my garage almost looks like a mini-showroom. I find their products to be of very good quality, relatively well priced, and generally easy to use. One thing I have learned over the years is that car washing/maint is like many things - using the right tools for the job. You can wash an entire car with a soapy bucket and a rag, or you can have a garage that looks like a woman's vanity drawer... or anything between. I have evolved into the latter of these.

So, here is a typical weekly routine:

Rule 1: Wash and dry your car only in shade. Doing it in sunshine will cause the soap and water to dry far too fast and will bake unwanted soap and chemicals into your finish.

Start with a good rinse, use pressure from your nozzle, then leave the car soaked. The more dirt and grime you can flush off without actual 'touching', the better. Don't forget those wheel wells and wheels. Amazing how much brake dust you'll see flowing down the driveway.

Cleanest-to-dirtiest: Which generally means top-to-bottom. So, I start with the roof. For the X3 and X5, unless you are a basketball player this is challenging. I use a two-step stool/ladder to get the height I need. In addition, I use an extendable stainless steel pole washer from Griot's. It is equipped with a microfiber removable "wash mitt" head. This allows me to clean the entire roof, windshield, hood easily where I wouldn't be able to reach very well otherwise. Also, in cold weather this keeps your hands away from the water and makes the job much more tolerable. Although I do also have a special insulated sheepskin mitt for winter.

Next, rinse everything you just washed. Don't let soapy water sit and dry on the vehicle. This also flushes off contaminants that you may have losened but didn't fully remove. Use a flow of water, not a spray. Spraying just continues to make the soapy water suds up... a full flow gives the flushing action and carries everything away.

Now, move down to hood, windows, etc. Door panels are next. Then rear hatch and bumper, rocker panels, and front fascia. Try to wash each panel then rinse the mitt before moving on. Save the dirtiest parts for last (rocker panels and behind each wheel) as you'll collect a lot of grime that you don't want to rub around the rest of the car. If really bad, use a separate mitt or rag for these areas.

Last are the really nasty bits - tailpipes, the far underside of bumper skins, inside painted wheel wells, etc. Again, rinse liberally after each "section" you wash.

I use a couple of types of wash, either Griot's Car Wash (very slippery and concentrated) or Meguire's.

Drying: I start with a dripping wet car, because I continue rinsing and re-rinsing until the whole car is done. I don't like any part of it to naturally dry or there will be water spots. First, I use a Gel Blade to squeegee off the majority of the water, especially on the roof and hood where it can really puddle up. Next, squeegee all the glass. Water spots on glass drives me insane - especially the windshield. Then I take a waffle style micro fiber towel (the ones I use from Griot's actually have little hand pockets that are great) and Griot's Spray Wax... and using a mist of spray wax on each panel, dry gently with the towel in the exact same order the car was washed (top down). For the few areas that did start to dry and spot before I get to them, the spray wax removes those spots, and it also increases the drying life of the towel. One towel can dry the entire X5 or X3.

Next, using a different towel (one that can get a little icky), open all the doors and dry all painted surfaces inside your door areas. Same for rear hatch.

Now it's time to do the wheels. The approach and supplies depends on how filthy they are. First I do the tires. I either use Griot's Rubber Cleaner, or Simple Green (a terrific inexpensive cleaner that is environmentally safe) and stiff brush. For the wheels, I prefer not to use a brush unless absolutely necessary. BMW wheels are painted, and I keep them waxed... I don't really want to scrape my wax off with a brush. I use a dedicated wash mitt for the wheels and get everywhere I can reach - all the way to the back side. For the areas I can't reach, I have a four-finger-mitt for wheels that gets behind the spokes and into other tight areas. For the remaining "back part" that I can't reach with either of these, I use a wheel cleaning tool that is like a barbeque cleaning pad on a long plastic handle. Great for getting that area behind the rotors, etc. I have a special brush for the lug holes, that gets them and the lug heads nice and clean.
Follow with a good rinse (for wheels I spray, not flow) then dry with a towel that I don't mind dirtying a bit. If the wheels are really bad, I will spray them down with either wheel cleaner or Simple Green to help break up the grime and loosen the brake dust.

For waxing, I use several combos. I use a random orbiter, and hand application. I like Griot's Paint Sealant because it provides a fantastic base protection that will last up to a year. On top of a couple coats of that, I generally use a carnuba wax. I also use Turtle Wax Ice on some areas, because you can get it on plastic or any surface and it not only will not show, when buffed, it protects the surface just like the painted portions. Great for the A pilars where you have that black rubber strip running down the middle.

Clay bar when needed... polish when needed... I found that on the new X3, the clay did a great job of removing some of the cosmolene that remained in a few spots, when nothing else would get it off.

Lastly, after debadging, I use "Goo Gone" to remove all the adhesive residue, then clean thoroghly and seal/wax.

Luckily - my neighbor is just as completely insane as I am.
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      06-17-2011, 03:34 PM   #71
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^ WOW!



-- Thanks a lot for the info!

Last edited by flash3; 06-17-2011 at 08:45 PM..
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      06-17-2011, 03:40 PM   #72
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+1
Impressive!
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      06-17-2011, 03:55 PM   #73
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I'd vote this becomes a sticky. Great write that not only provides some great advice but also advises on the "why"do it this way. Thanks ledzep
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      06-17-2011, 04:42 PM   #74
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Great write up LedZep. I would add one more thing. If you live in an area of "hard water" and have soft water treatment, you might try using an outlet that has the soft water. I found that it really reduces spotting.
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      06-19-2011, 01:14 PM   #75
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What do you guys use to clean the black part b/w the windows?
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      06-19-2011, 01:43 PM   #76
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Nice write-up LZ. Agree with most of it but I do the wheels first so that you don't spray any crap over the newly cleaned body work when you clean them.

I also use a different wash mitt for the lower dirtier parts of the car and keep one bucket of clean water for rinsing the wash mitt after every application so you don't return dirt to the soap water bucket
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      06-19-2011, 04:36 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by sfax View Post
Nice write-up LZ. Agree with most of it but I do the wheels first so that you don't spray any crap over the newly cleaned body work when you clean them.

I also use a different wash mitt for the lower dirtier parts of the car and keep one bucket of clean water for rinsing the wash mitt after every application so you don't return dirt to the soap water bucket
I sometimes wash the tires/wheels first, but not usually. My problem is that I am fighting the clock. I have limited shade on my driveway in the morning - once the sun crests over my roof I lose it quickly. I have to get the entire vehicle washed, rinsed and dryed before the evil rays of the cursed sun burst down upon it. Ergo, I do the car first - the wheels I can do in sun because they get rinsed so fast. And I have rinsing the wheels without getting anything on the clean car down to a science!

I have a purpose designed car wash bucket that has a grate at the bottom to trap any grit below where the mitt can pick it up again, which helps.

On a humorous note, I discovered a few years ago that if I put my address into Google Maps and selected satellite view - then zoomed in, it showed me out washing my car. I thought that was appropriate!
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      06-19-2011, 04:43 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by LEDZEP View Post
On a humorous note, I discovered a few years ago that if I put my address into Google Maps and selected satellite view - then zoomed in, it showed me out washing my car. I thought that was appropriate!
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      06-19-2011, 06:32 PM   #79
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And another thing, how do you guys clean/maintain the chrome exhaust tips? Any special solutions/care tips?
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      06-19-2011, 06:52 PM   #80
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I wash the chrome along with the rest of the vehicle (but last, as I don't want soot on my clean mitt). I will sometimes use a chrome/metal polish if they need it.

Here's a tip, you can spray the Armor All wheel protectant on the ends of the tips to prevent soot buildup. It's basically like Teflon.
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      06-19-2011, 07:05 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by LEDZEP View Post
I wash the chrome along with the rest of the vehicle (but last, as I don't want soot on my clean mitt). I will sometimes use a chrome/metal polish if they need it.

Here's a tip, you can spray the Armor All wheel protectant on the ends of the tips to prevent soot buildup. It's basically like Teflon.
I got this stuff

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...T|GRP2074_____

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...T|GRP2074_____

Which of the two is better to use and won't this spray dull the shine away?
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      06-19-2011, 08:24 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by LEDZEP View Post
On a humorous note, I discovered a few years ago that if I put my address into Google Maps and selected satellite view - then zoomed in, it showed me out washing my car. I thought that was appropriate!
perhaps next time they can get you there on streetview
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      06-20-2011, 10:55 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by flash3 View Post
What do you guys use to clean the black part b/w the windows?
I've used "Back To Black" on plastic areas.

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/06108.html

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      06-20-2011, 07:06 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by flash3 View Post
I got this stuff

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...T|GRP2074_____

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...T|GRP2074_____

Which of the two is better to use and won't this spray dull the shine away?
Yes - the Armor All will dull the shine, which is why I don't treat my wheels with it (except maybe going into the really dirty part of winter). I spray the the "ends" of the chrome tips, where the soot collects. If you overspray, a simple wipe removes it from the outer tube. But use a mask of some sort (not for your face, to guard against spray) to avoid getting it on the bumper.
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      06-25-2011, 10:19 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by MA78 View Post
I use 303, Lexol and Einszett products on the inside. Much better.

What's the best product to use when cleaning the dashboard and other parts in the car (not leather seats, of course) - but the the black area near the windshield and the area that houses the odometer etc?
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      06-26-2011, 06:11 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by flash3 View Post
What's the best product to use when cleaning the dashboard and other parts in the car (not leather seats, of course) - but the the black area near the windshield and the area that houses the odometer etc?
"303 Aerospace Protectant" is the best thing for the dashboard, upper door panels, and other plastic or vinyl areas such as the center of the steering wheel and the column, etc. It not only cleans well and provides a nice satin finish, it has UV protection.

But don't use that or any other plastic or vinyl protectant on your clear plastic (such as the gauge cover - and especially the iDrive screen). I use Plexus with a soft micro-fiber for those.
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      06-26-2011, 06:58 AM   #87
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How do you apply that stuff? Because if you wipe the dash with a microfiber cloth I'm assuming you're gonna leave some thread given the dash is made of an odd material. It's not plastic but it's not vinyl.

Also any products I can pick up from the auto store? I was planning on cleaning the car tomm.
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      06-26-2011, 10:22 AM   #88
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Lots of good information here. I've enriched Autogeek and Griot a bit based on some reading here.

I'm surprised that there is no mention of water filtration though.

I started using one of these a few years ago and it was a total game-changer for my wash process.

I don't have to rush to dry the car with one of these as I did before. Absolutely no spotting. In fact, I can even skip the dry altogether if I'm in a hurry. Very highly recommended.
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