[flash3]

Originally Posted by Nahoa

Zaino has only one wash to the best of my knowledge. There are at least three different products for the plastic/trim. Recommend reading and choosing what sounds best to you. There's a "all-in-one" I use that can do paint, porous trim, hard plastic, glass, pretty much everything. There's a product for porous trim, and another for plastic.

There are polishes, sealants, sealant sealers, detailing sprays.

-- doing that as we speak and also reading a bit on autogeek.com of the various methods to use when using/washing certain parts of the car.

[MA78]

Originally Posted by Nahoa

I skipped the dish soap and clay bar on the new car -- you did those steps?

Yeah. The dish soap may have been overkill, but the clay was necessary to prep the paint for the wax and sealant.

[MA78]

I should also mention Poorboy's World products. I started using their stuff last year and really like it. Especially their trim cleaners and waxes.

[flash3]

Originally Posted by MA78

The first wash should be with a dish soap to cleanse the paint and strip any dealer waxes. Then you can use any high quality auto soap after that. I use the Zaino wash, but there are many good brands. Meguiars is actually pretty decent.
As for black trim, anything by Einszeitt, Lexol or Wurth will be good.

Would something like this be suitable?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...CGRP2074_____#

[flash3]

Originally Posted by MA78

I should also mention Poorboy's World products. I started using their stuff last year and really like it. Especially their trim cleaners and waxes.

Came across this: http://www.poorboysworld.com/trim-restorer.htm

Is this what you use for the black trimming?

[MA78]

Originally Posted by flash3

Came across this: http://www.poorboysworld.com/trim-restorer.htm

Is this what you use for the black trimming?

Use the trim dressing for a new car.

[MA78]

Originally Posted by flash3

Would something like this be suitable?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...|GRP2074_____#

I wouldn't use this unless you like a really greasy wet look.

[flash3]

Originally Posted by MA78

Use the trim dressing for a new car.

This is the only dressing I saw in the Exterior section but it seems like this is something else, or is it?

http://www.poorboysworld.com/natural-look.htm

[flash3]

Originally Posted by MA78

I wouldn't use this unless you like a really greasy wet look.

Yeah, I do want the black trim to shine and stand out a bit. So this might work then but is it as good (quality/longevity) for the black trim of the car?

[sand99]

Car washing/detailing is one of my favorite subjects, drives my wife nuts! I've got dozens of microfiber towels in the laundry room, and various closets and other areas throughout the house -- she can't stand it!

Again though flash, a lot of the products will come down to your personal preference. I used to be a huge Zaino nut, and bought all their products, but a couple years ago I moved on in large part thanks to the pros on e90post.com.

Zaino's products are good -- I don't know if there's anything out there that beats Zaino for durability...especially in its price range. I just want a warmer, wetter look than Zaino products can provide. Instead Zaino is great if you prefer a shiny clean look.

Zaino's car wash is really good though. They also have foam pads you can use to apply tire dressing.

If I were you, I'd only get the Meguiars products I linked earlier from your local auto shop, and stick to autogeek/detailers domain, etc for everything else.

For black plastic trim, I don't like the wet look personally. Instead I use 303:

http://www.autogeek.net/16oz.html

303 is pricey, but really good stuff. Not sure what other questions you have, but autogeek has tons of useful info available you can read up on. I highly recommend using the two bucket wash method with grit guards for added protection from swirls. As an extra safey precaution, I also have dedicated wash mitts for upper/lower sections of the car when washing (2 each).

Just sign up for autogeek's mailing list and you should instantly get a 10% off coupon in your inbox. Do the same for the other sites I mentioned. Again, there are lots of coupons/discounts out there, so definitely take advantage of those.

[flash3]

Originally Posted by sand99

Car washing/detailing is one of my favorite subjects, drives my wife nuts! I've got dozens of microfiber towels in the laundry room, and various closets and other areas throughout the house -- she can't stand it!

Again though flash, a lot of the products will come down to your personal preference. I used to be a huge Zaino nut, and bought all their products, but a couple years ago I moved on in large part thanks to the pros on e90post.com.

Zaino's products are good -- I don't know if there's anything out there that beats Zaino for durability...especially in its price range. I just want a warmer, wetter look than Zaino products can provide. Instead Zaino is great if you prefer a shiny clean look.

Zaino's car wash is really good though. They also have foam pads you can use to apply tire dressing.

If I were you, I'd only get the Meguiars products I linked earlier from your local auto shop, and stick to autogeek/detailers domain, etc for everything else.

For black plastic trim, I don't like the wet look personally. Instead I use 303:

http://www.autogeek.net/16oz.html

303 is pricey, but really good stuff. Not sure what other questions you have, but autogeek has tons of useful info available you can read up on. I highly recommend using the two bucket wash method with grit guards for added protection from swirls. As an extra safey precaution, I also have dedicated wash mitts for upper/lower sections of the car when washing (2 each).

Just sign up for autogeek's mailing list and you should instantly get a 10% off coupon in your inbox. Do the same for the other sites I mentioned. Again, there are lots of coupons/discounts out there, so definitely take advantage of those.

Your wife is very understanding lol

Can you elaborate on the 2 bucket method?

I'll order one of these trim dressings but for the wash I'm leaning towards the ultimate wash/wax by Meguiars. And then later on I'll order a zaino like product.

Any recommendations on spray quick waxes?

[bluesmachine]

I have used many of the products from this site and have found them quite good.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/

The yellow clay bar is especially good. What I like is that they have kits all ready for you and all pre packaged.

They are very helpful over the phone as well.

A few years ago I purchased all the materials necessary to paint my garage floor and it came out great. I have since moved, but again the customer service was very helpful.

[flash3]

On a side note, I've seen some people in my neighborhood use "well water" to wash their cars. There's a hose connected to the local well I guess, the water isn't completely clear though.

What would that to one's paint?

[Nahoa]

I'd be worried about what's making it not clear. If it's actually particles suspended in the water like bits of dirt, rust, or other grit you might risk creating swirl marks. Now, the point of washing the car is to remove gritty stuff, so it might not be significant compared to what's already on the car. Probably would depend on how gritty the water is (if at all), the cloth you're using, making sure that when you're wiping it's plenty soapy, and rinsing the cloth as you work.

[flash3]

Originally Posted by Nahoa

I'd be worried about what's making it not clear. If it's actually particles suspended in the water like bits of dirt, rust, or other grit you might risk creating swirl marks. Now, the point of washing the car is to remove gritty stuff, so it might not be significant compared to what's already on the car. Probably would depend on how gritty the water is (if at all), the cloth you're using, making sure that when you're wiping it's plenty soapy, and rinsing the cloth as you work.

Not sure. I had rinsed my car with it after the snow storm and I noticed the water wasn't entirely clear.

There are some people who wash their Audi, Benz etc and it got me thinking of potential impacts to the paint or shine.

[Radioactive]

If you want to use well water, test it. Pour some in a gallon or two bucket. Defloccutlate the water. Come back in a hour or so. If the water is clear and you can't feel grit in the bottom sediment the brackish water was probably caused by suspended clay particles. Your biggest problem with well water in magnesium and calcium deposits.

[MA78]

OK, now that I'm back on my computer I can write about detailing in more...well...detail.

Here goes:

Step 1
The Wash
If this is the first time you're washing your car, you should use dish soap like Dawn or Ajax. Just make sure it doesn't have any bleach or moisturizer in it. Use the a-fore-mentioned two bucket method. The orange utility buckets at home depot work great for this, and they're pretty cheap. You can buy Grit Guards at autogeek.net for about $10. Get two. One bucket is used for soap, the other is used to rinse your wash media after each scrubbing. Rinse your media after each body panel, and replace it if it seems to be getting really dirty.
I like to use chenille wash mits for cleaning the paint-work. You can use terry cloth rags for the trim, wheels and tires.
The reason you will use dish soap for the first wash is that it will strip away any old wax that may be left on the paint. You don't want that crap on there anyway. After you've applied your wax/sealant of your choice, you can start using other car wash soaps to keep it clean. DO NOT use dish soap after you've already waxed your car. It will strip off all your wax and leave your car naked! I like to use Zaino Z-7 and Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds.
Step 2:
Drying
There are two ways to dry your car. Or three if you use a combination of the two...which is what I do. The cheapest way is to invest in some good waffle weave micro fibre towels. They work great, last forever and don't hang on to debris. The faster and easier way is to use a leaf blower. This is really only an option if you have a very clean garage/driveway. Make sure that you're not just blowing dust and dirt all over your freshly washed car. You can also use an air compressor if you have one. Like I said, I like to use a combination of the two. It's faster that way. And fast = no water spots.
Step 3:
Claying
I use Nick's technique from bimmerfest:

Nick’s unsolicited Claying Tips & Tricks

Disclaimer: I am not a professional detailer nor an expert on paint care. I’m just a charter member of the ARZOA who has a little experience with clay, and one of my cars is Jet Black and shows all of my mistakes!

Basic Rules:
Clay baring does not damage paint, only unskillful or careless clay bar users damage paint! There are several basic rules to the successful use of clay bar:
(1) use plenty of lubricant
(2) use only fresh, clean clay
(3) use plenty of lubricant
(4) use a very light hand with the clay
(5) use plenty of lubricant
(6) stretch and refold the clay frequently (do not knead)
(7) use plenty of lubricant
(8) on any given area, only clay until it passes the baggie test
(9) use plenty of lubricant

Step by Step:
Wash your car using Dawn liquid dish detergent. This will get rid of any wax, oils, or silicone on the paint. Don’t use a circular motion, use longitudinal strokes on the horizontal surfaces, and vertical strokes on the vertical surfaces.

Prepare a spray bottle with a half ounce of your favorite car wash soap and fill with water ... preferable distilled water from the grocery store.

Put your hand in a sandwich baggie (the very thin kind, NOT a ZipLoc), spray a small area of your paint with the soap/water solution as a lubricant and lightly run your hand over the paint. Any contaminants will feel like huge bumps through the baggie!

Before using your clay it’s best to cut it into smaller pieces. I cut mine so that when flattened I have a fairly thin 2”x3” rectangle. When claying I use only one side of the patty - it makes stretching and folding easier. When folding is needed I pull on the 2” ends to make a 2”x4” patty, then pull on the 4” ends to make a 3”x4” patty. Fold in half and you have a clean 3”x2” patty that is clean on both sides. Again, use only one side before refolding.

Use your claybar lightly on any areas that feel bumpy ... and use plenty of lubricant. No need to use the expensive lube sold for use with a claybar .… your car wash solution is just as good, but use it very liberally. It's much less expensive than your paint!

After finishing the claybar process wash the car again with your favorite car wash solution. If you do a thorough rinsing as you work, then washing will not be needed. Again, use longitudinal strokes on the horizontal surfaces, and vertical strokes on the vertical surfaces. Use light pressure when washing, and rinse your mitt frequently. Blot to dry, do not rub.

If your paint has any swirl marks or spider-webbing, now is the time to take care of them.

A little caution with the claybar: Do not be tempted to save a couple of dollars by using the least expensive clay. As you use the clay periodically stretch it out and refold it to always present a clean surface to your paint. If you drop the bar, then throw it away! Always use a lot of lubricant and a light rubbing motion ... be gentle with your paint.

Recommended products:
Dawn liquid dish detergent (for wax, oil, etc. removal)
Clay Magic or Z-18 (for claying)
Big Blue Towel from Classic Motoring Accessories (for drying)

Remember: When claying use plenty of lubricant and a light touch. With a little effort you’ll have great looking paint. Good luck.

Step 4:
Wash again!
Yeah, you will want to do a quick wash and dry before you apply wax or sealant after claying your car. Perfection takes time and patience.

Step 5:
Tape it up
Tape off all your trim prior to applying wax. You DO NOT want to get wax or sealant on your black trim. It's a pain in the ass to remove. Just get some blue painters tape and have fun making your car look all Tron.

Step 6:
Sealant
So before we get into the process, lets talk about what sealant is and what it isn't. Sealant, unlike wax, is a totally synthetic protectant. Whereas a wax is a compound of natural carnauba oil. Sealants will last longer and give a brighter shine than a wax will, but lack warmth. With some colours that is fine, but with reds, whites black and blues, you should really use a sealant AND a wax to get the best look and protection.
So, applying sealant is different depending on the type you are using. I use Zaino Z-2 and just follow the directions on the bottle. It's pretty simple. Do two layers if you have time.

Step 7:
Wax
After all your sealant is removed, it's time for your LSP (last step product). This is the money shot. Use the good stuff. I like to use Swissvax Blau-Weiss. It's especially formulated for BMW paint and looks effing AMAZING when it's done. It's not cheap though. If you want something more affordable, go with Dodo Juice. Dodo makes different waxes for different colours, so make sure you get the right one.
I like to use an orbital polisher for waxing, but you certainly don't need one to do it right. Just get one of these kits and you'll be set. Do one body panel at a time and be sure to let the wax fully cure before removing it.

Step 8:
Trim Care
First, use THIS on all your door seals. It will keep them soft and supple. Then you'll want to clean and seal your exterior trim pieces. Like I said before, I don't like the greasy look you get from cheaper dressings. I like the black trim to look clean and shinny, but not wet and greasy like a Jersey Shore kid. Einszett Plastic Cleaner is my favorite product for this. Just spray it on your mf towel and clean away.

[sand99]

Originally Posted by flash3

Your wife is very understanding lol

Can you elaborate on the 2 bucket method?

I'll order one of these trim dressings but for the wash I'm leaning towards the ultimate wash/wax by Meguiars. And then later on I'll order a zaino like product.

Any recommendations on spray quick waxes?

The two bucket method is a must to help prevent swirls that can be induced by improperly washing your car. I have a black Acura -- next to BMW's Jet Black, I'm pretty sure this is the softest paint out there...Breathing on it too hard can cause swirls!!

You have one bucket for your car wash soap, and another bucket filled with rinse water. I then have a double grit guard in my rinse bucket to keep the nasty stuff at the bottom of the water. I'm constantly rinsing my wash mitt/sponge in the rinse bucket by rubbing it across the grit guard. Then I reload the mitt with soap from the wash bucket. You can get grit guards and plastic buckets real cheap at US Plastic Corp:http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/sea...20guard&page=1

Make sure to get the 5 gallon bucket:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...3220&catid=752

Autogeek has good car washing tips as well:
http://autogeek.net/exterior.html

One quick and cheap tip on drying...Use the water hose with the nozzle removed. Just run it across the top of the car, hood, roof, top of the sides, etc, this removes most of the standing water on the surface if your car is maintained properly. Then you just get the remainder off with your waffle weave.

I still haven't found a spray on quick wax that's as good as advertised. They're all definitely good, but don't expect them to replace the traditional sealant/wax. Zaino's detail spray is good, however lately I've been using Pinnacle Souveran liquid spray wax (I got a good deal on it and bought a gallon):
http://autogeek.net/pinnacle-souveran-spray-wax.html

Chemical Guys Speed Wipe is really good stuff also, and it's inexpensive:
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Pink_Qui...wac_102_16.htm

Chemical Guys makes some REALLY nice microfibers too. Get your waffle weave from autogeek though.

[flash3]

ALl,

THANK YOU for all this information. I got more than I even expected. So thanks!

[flash3]

Originally Posted by sand99

I still haven't found a spray on quick wax that's as good as advertised. They're all definitely good, but don't expect them to replace the traditional sealant/wax. Zaino's detail spray is good, however lately I've been using Pinnacle Souveran liquid spray wax (I got a good deal on it and bought a gallon):
http://autogeek.net/pinnacle-souveran-spray-wax.html

Chemical Guys Speed Wipe is really good stuff also, and it's inexpensive:
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Pink_Qui...wac_102_16.htm

Chemical Guys makes some REALLY nice microfibers too. Get your waffle weave from autogeek though.

The Pinnacle Souveran liquid spray wax you mentioned above, let's say after I finish washing/drying my car, do I just spray a certain area of the car and wipe and do that for the entire car? Is that it?

[flash3]

Originally Posted by MA78

OK, now that I'm back on my computer I can write about detailing in more...well...detail.

Here goes:

Step 1
The Wash
If this is the first time you're washing your car, you should use dish soap like Dawn or Ajax. Just make sure it doesn't have any bleach or moisturizer in it. Use the a-fore-mentioned two bucket method. The orange utility buckets at home depot work great for this, and they're pretty cheap. You can buy Grit Guards at autogeek.net for about $10. Get two. One bucket is used for soap, the other is used to rinse your wash media after each scrubbing. Rinse your media after each body panel, and replace it if it seems to be getting really dirty.
I like to use chenille wash mits for cleaning the paint-work. You can use terry cloth rags for the trim, wheels and tires.
The reason you will use dish soap for the first wash is that it will strip away any old wax that may be left on the paint. You don't want that crap on there anyway. After you've applied your wax/sealant of your choice, you can start using other car wash soaps to keep it clean. DO NOT use dish soap after you've already waxed your car. It will strip off all your wax and leave your car naked! I like to use Zaino Z-7 and Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds.
Step 2:
Drying
There are two ways to dry your car. Or three if you use a combination of the two...which is what I do. The cheapest way is to invest in some good waffle weave micro fibre towels. They work great, last forever and don't hang on to debris. The faster and easier way is to use a leaf blower. This is really only an option if you have a very clean garage/driveway. Make sure that you're not just blowing dust and dirt all over your freshly washed car. You can also use an air compressor if you have one. Like I said, I like to use a combination of the two. It's faster that way. And fast = no water spots.
Step 3:
Claying
I use Nick's technique from bimmerfest:


Step 4:
Wash again!
Yeah, you will want to do a quick wash and dry before you apply wax or sealant after claying your car. Perfection takes time and patience.

Step 5:
Tape it up
Tape off all your trim prior to applying wax. You DO NOT want to get wax or sealant on your black trim. It's a pain in the ass to remove. Just get some blue painters tape and have fun making your car look all Tron.

Step 6:
Sealant
So before we get into the process, lets talk about what sealant is and what it isn't. Sealant, unlike wax, is a totally synthetic protectant. Whereas a wax is a compound of natural carnauba oil. Sealants will last longer and give a brighter shine than a wax will, but lack warmth. With some colours that is fine, but with reds, whites black and blues, you should really use a sealant AND a wax to get the best look and protection.
So, applying sealant is different depending on the type you are using. I use Zaino Z-2 and just follow the directions on the bottle. It's pretty simple. Do two layers if you have time.

Step 7:
Wax
After all your sealant is removed, it's time for your LSP (last step product). This is the money shot. Use the good stuff. I like to use Swissvax Blau-Weiss. It's especially formulated for BMW paint and looks effing AMAZING when it's done. It's not cheap though. If you want something more affordable, go with Dodo Juice. Dodo makes different waxes for different colours, so make sure you get the right one.
I like to use an orbital polisher for waxing, but you certainly don't need one to do it right. Just get one of these kits and you'll be set. Do one body panel at a time and be sure to let the wax fully cure before removing it.

Step 8:
Trim Care
First, use THIS on all your door seals. It will keep them soft and supple. Then you'll want to clean and seal your exterior trim pieces. Like I said before, I don't like the greasy look you get from cheaper dressings. I like the black trim to look clean and shinny, but not wet and greasy like a Jersey Shore kid. Einszett Plastic Cleaner is my favorite product for this. Just spray it on your mf towel and clean away.

This is the first time I am hearing about using dishwashing liquid soap to wash a car. So any dawn or ajax (the normal, no scented ones) will work?

What I am going to do is after a few weeks of getting the car, I will wash the car with the dish soap and then wash it with the car soap from Zaino you mentioned above. And then dry it.

The only thing now I want to get more information on is the wax/sealant. I need something simple and quick because I won't have time to do that much detailing right now or at least until I move to my home (living in an apartment now). What is something quick I can use? Recommendation?

So for your black trim you just spray this (http://autogeek.net/1z-einzett-plastic-cleaner.html) on the black trim and wipe down? That's it?

Thanks again!

[flash3]

For interior care, do any of you guys use this?

http://www.shopbmwusa.com/ProductDet...CClistExterior