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      04-07-2017, 12:46 PM   #67
Fast4d
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2006 325 (E90) with N52 engine

this is probably the first year they went to an electric water pump.

at 92k miles it is still on the original pump. I plan to replace it at 100k.

our 2014 X3 is a 4 banger so hopefull it is easier to access but we have warranty to 100k miles or 4 more years.
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      04-09-2017, 11:12 AM   #68
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Finished installing the pump on our '11 X3 35i yesterday so will share my thoughts on it.
Cost of the pump $458.49 + 3.78L of coolant $21.73 + $.99 distilled water This represents the single most expensive part I have ever replaced on any of my vehicles in the last 25 years (X3 is our 1st BMW)
I did not change the thermostat per this youtube video:



The job looks harder than it is, the worst part of the job for me was getting at the pump as the only way to disconnect the hoses is to unbolt the pump from the engine block and the thermostat and then move it back towards the firewall and loosen the hose clamps from below. Then the fun part of separating the hoses from the pump by squeezing your hands through tight spaces to grab the hose while hanging on to the pump. The only other part that gave me trouble was to disconnect a cooler? from the fan shroud which is bolted with one T25 screw and slides vertically into a slot in the fan shroud. The rest is fairly simple, removal of parts in order to have enough space to remove the pump.
The procedure posted here is a great help although way too detailed to be followed to the letter.
It took me about 4hrs+ to do it and I used car ramps to get bottom access and a ladder to get top access.
Thanks to all the people who posted here with their findings I used your info. to prepare for the job ahead of time.
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Last edited by Papa Smurf; 04-09-2017 at 04:31 PM. Reason: added pictures
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      04-12-2017, 03:00 PM   #69
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same just happened to me yesterday, car at 76k km/47k miles. 2011 35i. drove home from work later that day 35+km and error did not come up again. performed the bleed test, system seems to be running but it may sound weird? here's how it sound like
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      04-13-2017, 06:07 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88 View Post
same just happened to me yesterday, car at 76k km/47k miles. 2011 35i. drove home from work later that day 35+km and error did not come up again. performed the bleed test, system seems to be running but it may sound weird? here's how it sound like
My cars cooling fan kept coming on without the engine being warm, on and off repeatedly. (Mingstar88 did you get a PM from me BTW?)

I forgot to ask, in my last picture there was junk floating in the overflow after I top up the system, I did try to scoop up what was there but does anyone know if that is suppose to be there?
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      04-13-2017, 07:55 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Smurf View Post
My cars cooling fan kept coming on without the engine being warm, on and off repeatedly. (Mingstar88 did you get a PM from me BTW?)

I forgot to ask, in my last picture there was junk floating in the overflow after I top up the system, I did try to scoop up what was there but does anyone know if that is suppose to be there?
yea i PM'd you. right now im trying to get the parts via friend's friend then go to indy to get it replaced. was wondering if that sound indicates bad pump
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      04-14-2017, 11:19 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88 View Post
yea i PM'd you. right now im trying to get the parts via friend's friend then go to indy to get it replaced. was wondering if that sound indicates bad pump
I would do the pump priming procedure to see if the pump runs, as you can hear it when it does. Here is an excerpt c/p from the procedure:
2. Switch the ignition on.
3. Switch on low-beam headlight.
4. Set heating to maximum temperature. Take back blower to smallest stage.
6. Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Engine must not be started.
7. The bleeding procedure was started by pressing the accelerator pedal and takes approx. 12 min.
(the electrical coolant pump was activated and switches off automatically after approx. 12 min).

Also open the overflow cap and see if the coolant is moving with the pump running.
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      04-14-2017, 12:58 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Smurf View Post
I would do the pump priming procedure to see if the pump runs, as you can hear it when it does. Here is an excerpt c/p from the procedure:
2. Switch the ignition on.
3. Switch on low-beam headlight.
4. Set heating to maximum temperature. Take back blower to smallest stage.
6. Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Engine must not be started.
7. The bleeding procedure was started by pressing the accelerator pedal and takes approx. 12 min.
(the electrical coolant pump was activated and switches off automatically after approx. 12 min).

Also open the overflow cap and see if the coolant is moving with the pump running.
i've done the procedure before but didnt let it run for 12 mins. will try that now will report back. thanks

edit: my battery just died running the procedure!! ill boost it up when i charge up my booster. but during the whole time the coolant was moving in the overflow cap.

Last edited by Mingstar88; 04-14-2017 at 02:03 PM.
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      04-14-2017, 02:47 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88 View Post
i've done the procedure before but didnt let it run for 12 mins. will try that now will report back. thanks

edit: my battery just died running the procedure!! ill boost it up when i charge up my booster. but during the whole time the coolant was moving in the overflow cap.
Yea I guess I should have mentioned that if you do run the entire bleed test procedure for 12min the manual does suggest to connect a battery charger.
1. Connect battery charger.
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      04-14-2017, 05:24 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Smurf View Post
Yea I guess I should have mentioned that if you do run the entire bleed test procedure for 12min the manual does suggest to connect a battery charger.
1. Connect battery charger.
car up and running now after boost.
should i assume that my water pump is working if it went through full bleed procedure? i guess time will tell. i did order the parts so between now and 100k ill get them replaced
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      08-03-2017, 11:08 AM   #76
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Adding a data point:

2013 X3 35i, 60,000km, 5 years and 2 months in.

Engine overheated starting with yellow warning and limp mode, then red and pull over warning. Pulled over, restarted after 20 min and drove home. Drove about another 100km worth of short trips on the weekend with no issues.

Leading up, had to top up the coolant with about 1/2 to 3/4 litres 3 times about 3-4 months apart but didn't notice any leaks, pools, or white exhaust.

Tried pulling codes with a cheap BT OBD2 adapter and a plethora of android apps but nothing was stored.

Decided not to mess around and went straight to replacing the water pump and thermostat, as last thing I need is to be stranded on the highway.

Was quoted $1101 and $1350 at 2 indys, $1490 at the stealership.
Ended up taking it to BMW, declined diagnostic work, and it ended up being a bit cheaper than quoted at $1244 taxes included.
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      08-06-2017, 10:17 PM   #77
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We just proactively replaced the water pump on our 2011 28 at 107,000. Took a bit to order the pump.
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      10-16-2017, 01:30 PM   #78
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Pretty sure I am going to be next on this list... noticed that my cooling fans are turning on way more frequently than previously and a couple times it was really load and didn't sound good.

THis morning I pulled into work and the fans or the pump was running loud like this and the oil temp was creeping up more than normal. No temperature warnings yet but I can feel it coming.

Anybody think this could be different? For reference, when I say its really loud, my car sounds just like the video posted a couple responses higher than mine (by mingstar88).
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      10-16-2017, 06:38 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88 View Post
car up and running now after boost.
should i assume that my water pump is working if it went through full bleed procedure? i guess time will tell. i did order the parts so between now and 100k ill get them replaced
just an update.
had it replaced around 75,000km. it has been running great since. crazy how early i had to get it replaced..
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      10-17-2017, 10:03 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epiphone3 View Post
Pretty sure I am going to be next on this list... noticed that my cooling fans are turning on way more frequently than previously and a couple times it was really load and didn't sound good.

THis morning I pulled into work and the fans or the pump was running loud like this and the oil temp was creeping up more than normal. No temperature warnings yet but I can feel it coming.

Anybody think this could be different? For reference, when I say its really loud, my car sounds just like the video posted a couple responses higher than mine (by mingstar88).
Well I was right. Got the first yellow engine temperature warning this morning. I gotta get this thing in to be fixed.
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      10-19-2017, 02:36 PM   #81
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Mine also failed about a couple of weeks ago. My X3 is a 2013 x35i model with 33,000 miles on the clock. Before the pump failed, I noticed the engine fan came on first thing in the morning for a couple of weeks. I should have taken the car to the dealer to check sooner. Anyway, the pump was replaced under extended warranty.
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      11-26-2017, 10:10 PM   #82
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Started this thread with the X3 failing...

So, our 2011 335i water pump just failed. On Thanksgiving, on the way to family no less. I should have known the day prior, fan was running abnormally. I was able to limp it home with only 2 stops to cool.
94 thousand miles.
So, ordered the parts and should have an indy get into it on Friday.

I would really advise any N55 owner to do this preventative at around 80k miles.
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      01-20-2018, 08:41 AM   #83
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So any help would be greatly appreciated. Noob here.

I have a 2011 X3 2.8. 91k miles. I noticed my coolant low light came on the other day. I filled it with BMW specific coolant, light went away. No leaks present. I have noticed my temp gauge never gets to full temp. As in I believe in the past it would rest about half way. Now it its about 3/8 the way there. No other warning lights. No notice of power loss. I kinda took the low coolant as the body shop when they replaced a bumper and fender last summer.

Should I be concerned about my pump? Would the same pump prime procedure work on my X3? Thanks ahead of time. So much useful info to be found.
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      01-20-2018, 10:33 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GGEVOX View Post
So any help would be greatly appreciated. Noob here.

I have a 2011 X3 2.8. 91k miles. I noticed my coolant low light came on the other day. I filled it with BMW specific coolant, light went away. No leaks present. I have noticed my temp gauge never gets to full temp. As in I believe in the past it would rest about half way. Now it its about 3/8 the way there. No other warning lights. No notice of power loss. I kinda took the low coolant as the body shop when they replaced a bumper and fender last summer.

Should I be concerned about my pump? Would the same pump prime procedure work on my X3? Thanks ahead of time. So much useful info to be found.
The temp guage you speak of is actually the oil temp not coolant temp. It uses the same prime procedure. Usually when the pump fails the engine will over heat. The 28i uses a different pump than the 35i in 2011 and has a less failure rate. Keep an eye on fluid level.
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      01-21-2018, 12:13 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GGEVOX View Post
So any help would be greatly appreciated. Noob here.

I have a 2011 X3 2.8. 91k miles. I noticed my coolant low light came on the other day. I filled it with BMW specific coolant, light went away. No leaks present. I have noticed my temp gauge never gets to full temp. As in I believe in the past it would rest about half way. Now it its about 3/8 the way there. No other warning lights. No notice of power loss. I kinda took the low coolant as the body shop when they replaced a bumper and fender last summer.

Should I be concerned about my pump? Would the same pump prime procedure work on my X3? Thanks ahead of time. So much useful info to be found.
Low coolant could be the expansion tank - it's known to crack and slowly leak. Otherwise, it's normal to add a little coolant between flushes. I typically go 2 years with coolant then change it.

As a FYI, the water pump failed at 107k on our 2011 X3 N52t. 76k on our 2013 X3 N55.
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      01-22-2018, 08:45 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG_KID View Post
The temp guage you speak of is actually the oil temp not coolant temp. It uses the same prime procedure. Usually when the pump fails the engine will over heat. The 28i uses a different pump than the 35i in 2011 and has a less failure rate. Keep an eye on fluid level.
Thank you for the update. The things you learn.
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      03-11-2018, 03:21 PM   #87
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Mine failed at 77k. Noticed radiator fan blowing full blast on cold start ups. So I figured pump is going soon. Car cut power and shut down on highway. Was able to limp home ok. (15 miles). I was monitoring engine temps thru mhd monitoring tablet. The code was coolant pump shutdown due to blockage.

Had to remove radiator fan, intercooler, to get decent access. I thought the F25 chassis would have more clearance but it was in a tight spot. The sway bar bolts up top would have been a pain.

About 8-10 hours later car is running great.
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      03-14-2018, 11:58 PM   #88
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My car was making more fan than normal for about a week then I had no power on the highway after getting that drive moderately warning and soon the engine shutdown and I coasted to the shoulder. They replaced a few parts that would've cost +$1000 but warranty covered.
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