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      08-17-2014, 10:41 PM   #1
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DIY Oil Change 2011 BMW X3 (F25) 35xi

Parts and tools:
7qts castrol synthetic 0w-40 ( LL01 BMW approved) or ***[OEM 5w30]
{{{{Edit: N20 motor uses 5.3 quarts}}}}
Filter, small o-ring, large o-ring and copper crunch washer
17mm socket for oil bolt
8mm socket for panel screws
BMW oil filter wrench
27mm socket for filter wrench
Socket wrench
A handled Pick hook
Torque wrench
Rhino ramps




1. Get the front end lifted up so you can access the drain plug. I used rhino ramps .

2. Remove the small plastic oil drain plug cover that is held in place by (2) 8mm screws.
(It is not marked "Oil", and at first I was a bit scared to unscrew it and drain the transmission . The e92 had a trap door that I knew was the oil )

3. Remove the drain plug using a 17mm socket

4. Drain the oil into a drain catch pan. I used a 15qt pan. Let it drain while you do the filter change.

5. Back up at the hood / engine area. Remove the oil filter cover using the BMW special wrench , 27mm socket and socket wrench. I ordered mine from Tischer BMW for my e92 and it works for the N55.

6. Remove the old oil filter from the cover . Use new oil to wet the dry filter,then firmly seat the new one. (I used the cap to hold the filter while oiling it.)

7. On the filter cap, Replace the tiny O ring at the tip-end . Use the hook tool.

8. On the filter cap, Replace the large O ring on the threaded portion of the filter assembly. You will notice the groove it sits in.

9. Both O rings should be lubed with oil.

10. Soak up the remaining oil inside the oil filter canister with paper towels.

11. Install the oil filter & cap and tighten to 18.5 ft lb of torque or alternatively if you don't have a torque wrench , look at the green marks and tighten by feel/ resistance .

12. Now that all your oil is drained Reinstall the drain plug ** with new crush washer** and use the 17 mm socket and tighten by feel/ resistance. I would say hand tight, then 1/8 to about 1/4 turn with wrench.

13. Refill with 7-quarts of 5W30 full synthetic( OEM ) or as I did with BMW Long life castrol 0W-40. This works well for winter time and since its the end of the summer already , I might as well do it now with it close to September .
{{{{Edit: N20 motor uses 5.3 quarts}}}}

14. Start engine and check for leaks

15. Install drain plug cover, remove oil pan from under car and check for any loose screws that you may have lost .

16. Reset your oil indication by:
Push start button once ( no start)
Door close and seat belt buckled
Press and hold the instrument cluster button ( large one left side)
The service menu will show up
Press each time to go to the next one unless it goes directly to the oil service.
Press and hold until it asks you to reset.
Press and hold to confirm
You can confirm the reset in I drive menu.
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      08-17-2014, 10:44 PM   #2
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Pics via iPhone so apologies since they will get out of order. Please follow the text portion :
Attached Images
                    
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      08-18-2014, 06:35 AM   #3
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Very interesting - thank you for posting! I used to all of this myself up until a few years ago!
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      08-18-2014, 10:54 AM   #4
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///Mposter - Thanks for this, especially the service reminder reset instructions. BMW's owner's manuals are less than helpful when it comes to maintenance procedures. I don't think mine even lists the engine oil capacity. It's almost as if they don't want you to do your own maintenance.
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      08-18-2014, 04:14 PM   #5
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You're welcome guys. I'm hoping to be pretty helpful on this forum. The e92 forum was already pretty done up with DIYs. The next one I am going to do is the spark plugs. I got halfway through and was given the wrong plugs, so I ha to put everything back. So I'm just going to wait until I find free time on a weekend again. I'm still unsure of how to access the rear 2 plugs .
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      08-18-2014, 04:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodchuck1 View Post
///Mposter - Thanks for this, especially the service reminder reset instructions. BMW's owner's manuals are less than helpful when it comes to maintenance procedures. I don't think mine even lists the engine oil capacity. It's almost as if they don't want you to do your own maintenance.
It's because they want you to either pay for their insanely priced extended maintenance plan or insanely priced "any maintenance item you can think of".

Just picked up my X3 today so looking forward to more DIY's.
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      08-19-2014, 09:30 AM   #7
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I would skip the part about paper towels, they can leave lint. A little bit of old oil will be fine.

Is anyone doing a break-in oil change on their X3? We picked up ours last week and it just hit 1200, debating whether I should change it.
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      08-25-2014, 10:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
DIY Oil Change 2011 BMW X3 (F25) 35xi

Parts and tools:
7qts castrol synthetic 0w-40 ( LL01 BMW approved) or ***[OEM 5w30]
Filter, small o-ring, large o-ring and copper crunch washer
17mm socket for oil bolt
8mm socket for panel screws
BMW oil filter wrench
27mm socket for filter wrench
Socket wrench
A handled Pick hook
Torque wrench
Rhino ramps




1. Get the front end lifted up so you can access the drain plug. I used rhino ramps .

2. Remove the small plastic oil drain plug cover that is held in place by (2) 8mm screws.
(It is not marked "Oil", and at first I was a bit scared to unscrew it and drain the transmission . The e92 had a trap door that I knew was the oil )

3. Remove the drain plug using a 17mm socket

4. Drain the oil into a drain catch pan. I used a 15qt pan. Let it drain while you do the filter change.

5. Back up at the hood / engine area. Remove the oil filter cover using the BMW special wrench , 27mm socket and socket wrench. I ordered mine from Tischer BMW for my e92 and it works for the N55.

6. Remove the old oil filter from the cover . Use new oil to wet the dry filter,then firmly seat the new one. (I used the cap to hold the filter while oiling it.)

7. On the filter cap, Replace the tiny O ring at the tip-end . Use the hook tool.

8. On the filter cap, Replace the large O ring on the threaded portion of the filter assembly. You will notice the groove it sits in.

9. Both O rings should be lubed with oil.

10. Soak up the remaining oil inside the oil filter canister with paper towels.

11. Install the oil filter & cap and tighten to 18.5 ft lb of torque or alternatively if you don't have a torque wrench , look at the green marks and tighten by feel/ resistance .

12. Now that all your oil is drained Reinstall the drain plug ** with new crush washer** and use the 17 mm socket and tighten by feel/ resistance. I would say hand tight, then 1/8 to about 1/4 turn with wrench.

13. Refill with 7-quarts of 5W30 full synthetic( OEM ) or as I did with BMW Long life castrol 0W-40. This works well for winter time and since its the end of the summer already , I might as well do it now with it close to September .

14. Start engine and check for leaks

15. Install drain plug cover, remove oil pan from under car and check for any loose screws that you may have lost .

16. Reset your oil indication by:
Push start button once ( no start)
Door close and seat belt buckled
Press and hold the instrument cluster button ( large one left side)
The service menu will show up
Press each time to go to the next one unless it goes directly to the oil service.
Press and hold until it asks you to reset.
Press and hold to confirm
You can confirm the reset in I drive menu.
Hi Mposter,
Do you know if you can you use this reset procedure to reset a faulty bulb replacement warning triangle!
I have replaced the headlights with a HID bulb kit and front sidelights with LEDs. I suspect the issue may be with the LED's.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
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      08-25-2014, 03:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowler_1
Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
DIY Oil Change 2011 BMW X3 (F25) 35xi

Parts and tools:
7qts castrol synthetic 0w-40 ( LL01 BMW approved) or ***[OEM 5w30]
Filter, small o-ring, large o-ring and copper crunch washer
17mm socket for oil bolt
8mm socket for panel screws
BMW oil filter wrench
27mm socket for filter wrench
Socket wrench
A handled Pick hook
Torque wrench
Rhino ramps




1. Get the front end lifted up so you can access the drain plug. I used rhino ramps .

2. Remove the small plastic oil drain plug cover that is held in place by (2) 8mm screws.
(It is not marked "Oil", and at first I was a bit scared to unscrew it and drain the transmission . The e92 had a trap door that I knew was the oil )

3. Remove the drain plug using a 17mm socket

4. Drain the oil into a drain catch pan. I used a 15qt pan. Let it drain while you do the filter change.

5. Back up at the hood / engine area. Remove the oil filter cover using the BMW special wrench , 27mm socket and socket wrench. I ordered mine from Tischer BMW for my e92 and it works for the N55.

6. Remove the old oil filter from the cover . Use new oil to wet the dry filter,then firmly seat the new one. (I used the cap to hold the filter while oiling it.)

7. On the filter cap, Replace the tiny O ring at the tip-end . Use the hook tool.

8. On the filter cap, Replace the large O ring on the threaded portion of the filter assembly. You will notice the groove it sits in.

9. Both O rings should be lubed with oil.

10. Soak up the remaining oil inside the oil filter canister with paper towels.

11. Install the oil filter & cap and tighten to 18.5 ft lb of torque or alternatively if you don't have a torque wrench , look at the green marks and tighten by feel/ resistance .

12. Now that all your oil is drained Reinstall the drain plug ** with new crush washer** and use the 17 mm socket and tighten by feel/ resistance. I would say hand tight, then 1/8 to about 1/4 turn with wrench.

13. Refill with 7-quarts of 5W30 full synthetic( OEM ) or as I did with BMW Long life castrol 0W-40. This works well for winter time and since its the end of the summer already , I might as well do it now with it close to September .

14. Start engine and check for leaks

15. Install drain plug cover, remove oil pan from under car and check for any loose screws that you may have lost .

16. Reset your oil indication by:
Push start button once ( no start)
Door close and seat belt buckled
Press and hold the instrument cluster button ( large one left side)
The service menu will show up
Press each time to go to the next one unless it goes directly to the oil service.
Press and hold until it asks you to reset.
Press and hold to confirm
You can confirm the reset in I drive menu.
Hi Mposter,
Do you know if you can you use this reset procedure to reset a faulty bulb replacement warning triangle!
I have replaced the headlights with a HID bulb kit and front sidelights with LEDs. I suspect the issue may be with the LED's.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
I think you are correct in your assumption of the LEDs. In short summary;There is usually a cold check and warm check of the lights. You can code the bulb check out, or try as some with load resisters to simulate an actual bulb. Safer option is the coding as it allows any LED bulb.
Read here more on it...
http://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=764176
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      08-26-2014, 03:08 AM   #10
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LED sidelight issues

Hi Mposter,
Thanks for that, will investigate the parallel resistor method. Although I have CANBUS LED's my understanding is that the LED's do not allow any current flow when off whereas the incandescent bulbs will do, so that the ECU check shows up a broken or ok filament
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      04-17-2015, 04:23 PM   #11
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Bump for sticky DIY section to be created.
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      06-05-2015, 10:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
Bump for sticky DIY section to be created.
+1, mods; please sticky this
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      07-02-2015, 10:53 AM   #13
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was looking at Mobil 1 96989 0W-40 at amazon.
i like how it comes with 6 quarts when we need 7 quarts for the x3..
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      08-04-2015, 03:28 PM   #14
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Can you use mobil one synthetic oil? if so 0-40 or 5-30?
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      08-04-2015, 03:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011X3NYC35I
Can you use mobil one synthetic oil? if so 0-40 or 5-30?
As long as the oil you choose is "LL-01" approved then it really is no problem.
I have used Mobil 0-40 in all three turbo vehicles I own and have found no issue with it.
Some people recommend only using 0-40 during winter but I am currently running it on the E92 during summer. No change to normal driving habits and it's working just fine.
It really comes down to your choice especially if you are out of warranty and do not need to prove anything for keeping the warranty. Otherwise , like I did for my x3, I paid $79 for a dealer oil change, while it was in there for other work.
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      08-07-2015, 11:19 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
As long as the oil you choose is "LL-01" approved then it really is no problem.
I have used Mobil 0-40 in all three turbo vehicles I own and have found no issue with it.
Some people recommend only using 0-40 during winter but I am currently running it on the E92 during summer. No change to normal driving habits and it's working just fine.
It really comes down to your choice especially if you are out of warranty and do not need to prove anything for keeping the warranty. Otherwise , like I did for my x3, I paid $79 for a dealer oil change, while it was in there for other work.
Thanks Mposter.
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      09-04-2015, 10:20 PM   #17
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did my first oil change today using this guide.
thanks Mposter!!






Last edited by Mingstar88; 09-04-2015 at 10:26 PM..
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      09-04-2015, 11:18 PM   #18
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All very useful DIY details. Thanks gents! This will be my next task after I fix my AC.
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      09-05-2015, 09:24 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88
did my first oil change today using this guide.
thanks Mposter!!





Just curious as to your wheel width and tire size and offset of the front wheel.

I also liked your tall ramps but I see you still had to use wood to climb it.
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      09-05-2015, 10:00 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
Just curious as to your wheel width and tire size and offset of the front wheel.

I also liked your tall ramps but I see you still had to use wood to climb it.
FRONT 245-40-20
OFFSET 35

i borrowed the ramp from my neighbour, i saw wood trick somewhere online so we tried it.
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      10-14-2015, 12:05 PM   #21
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VERY nice DIY write up..thanks!
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      12-20-2015, 01:48 PM   #22
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Anyone use a oil extractor for the oil change? Without having a dipstick hole is it even possible?
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