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      10-30-2011, 06:46 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirby View Post
I always wonder, after watching those video, won't you pull out the plug as well? or maybe there is more friction between the plug and the tyre and hence that friction hold the plug in place when you pull the needle out.
The plug fits in a notch on the tool. A twist releases the plug and you basically slide the tool out between the tire and tool.

Correction: It has been awhile, thankfully. If I remember correctly you do a little pull to release, then a twist, then a pullout.

Last edited by Radioactive; 10-30-2011 at 07:10 PM..
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      10-31-2011, 02:28 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirby View Post
Taking your advice and watched some video. http://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showth...1#post10706881
I am a bit concern with the amount of force needed to insert the plug. It would be hard to do that if the tyre is still on the car.
The plug is slathered in rubber cement prior to insertion, and this makes it a bit slippery. So it goes into the hole pretty easily.

As noted, getting the file in to cleanup the hole is the hard part, but not impossible. I normally put my weight into it and it's not a problem. Once inserted into the hole, you can rotate the file as well as move up/down to clean up the hole. That helps minimize horsing on it.

Then, goober up the plug with glue, stick it in, pull and twist the tool 90 degrees to remove, and you're good to go. I usually trim the ends of the plug flush with the tire tread at the end.
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      11-07-2011, 04:53 PM   #25
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instead of starting a new thread I thought I would continue this one, if you go with NON-RFT does it effect the TPMS at all on the X3? I am most likely getting WS-60 non rft for the winter but wanted to at least get the TPMS sensors so that my wife will be alerted right away if a tire starts losing pressure and can call me or BMW assist to get the car towed, but is the X3 TPMS designed specifically for run flats or does it not matter?

As another user said in this forum, my wife will never be driving on long trips or outside of the city/suburbs without me, so I am okay with getting non-RFT. In my experience all my flats usually come in the summer for some reason.
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      11-07-2011, 06:02 PM   #26
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Nah, TPS doesn't care what kind of tires are on the RIM. However, the system may be set to trigger an alarm at a certain PSI, so that could be an issue if the new tires are inflated to a dramatically different running pressure than the old ones. I wouldn't expect that to be the case, since the recommended tire pressure is usually based on vehicle load.
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      11-08-2011, 05:22 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skier219 View Post
Nah, TPS doesn't care what kind of tires are on the RIM. However, the system may be set to trigger an alarm at a certain PSI, so that could be an issue if the new tires are inflated to a dramatically different running pressure than the old ones. I wouldn't expect that to be the case, since the recommended tire pressure is usually based on vehicle load.
The trigger for the alert is based on a percentage of pressure loss from when the system was initialized. So, there is no "PSI number" that causes the alert. You could inflate to 20 psi and initialze the system and it would be happy with that. Of course, you might be as you get about 10 MPG.
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      11-08-2011, 05:24 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skier219 View Post
The plug is slathered in rubber cement prior to insertion, and this makes it a bit slippery. So it goes into the hole pretty easily.

As noted, getting the file in to cleanup the hole is the hard part, but not impossible. I normally put my weight into it and it's not a problem. Once inserted into the hole, you can rotate the file as well as move up/down to clean up the hole. That helps minimize horsing on it.

Then, goober up the plug with glue, stick it in, pull and twist the tool 90 degrees to remove, and you're good to go. I usually trim the ends of the plug flush with the tire tread at the end.
I'm feeling a little flushed after reading this.... Who needs romance novels!!
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      11-11-2011, 04:09 PM   #29
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First attempt in tyre puncture repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by kirby View Post
Taking your advice and watched some video. http://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showth...1#post10706881
I am a bit concern with the amount of force needed to insert the plug. It would be hard to do that if the tyre is still on the car.

Shall get some old tyre to try out the patching exercise.

Also thanks GenX3 for the mobility kit clarification and the gloves. I already have a 12V pump so I guess I just need to make up the rest of the kits.
Well, there is a slow leak in one of the tyres of my station wagon. So had the opportunity to put the tyre repair kit to use. This was my very first repair.

Firstly the puncture site could be hard to locate if the wheel is not removed from the car. Took a bit of time and physical strength to do it on our driveway, just outside the garage. Found a screw that caused the puncture.

Secondly, all aspect of repair using the repair kit is rather simple and straight forward with the exception of inserting the plug. As seen in those Youtube videos, A LOT of sustained force has to be applied even after the plug was lubricated prior to insertion. I had to put my weight onto the insertion applicator that has a T shape handle. Frankly I just can not see how I can possibly insert the plug without first removing the tyre from the car. It is just impossible for me to apply the same amount of force if the insertion is done horizontally rather then vertically (where I can use the body weight to increase the applied insertion force).
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      11-11-2011, 05:42 PM   #30
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kirby. Congratulation on losing your tyre virginity! I'm glad you got the experience at home rather than out on the road. I've had to do one on the road. My son caught a nail on the road causing the flat. Previous to that the tyre shop put the wrong lug nut on the car, so I had to do an on the car repair. Took over an hour and I had to use every tool known to cavemen to get the rasp and plug in. That's why I've tried to put out some warning that it's not like a pit crew tyre change.
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      11-16-2011, 11:45 AM   #31
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not sure i have all the info. don't have x3 yet, looking at it, and run flat is one of the points that is making me consider or not consider getting it.

can you purchase new from the dealer x3 without rft? if so, do you get a credit back applied to regular tires? or if you don't want rfts, is this purely an aftermarket solution? thanks.
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      11-16-2011, 06:34 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbinbi View Post
not sure i have all the info. don't have x3 yet, looking at it, and run flat is one of the points that is making me consider or not consider getting it.

can you purchase new from the dealer x3 without rft? if so, do you get a credit back applied to regular tires? or if you don't want rfts, is this purely an aftermarket solution? thanks.
Not sure of the situation in the States, but here in Australia non-runflats are a purely aftermarket solution - dealers have no option but to deliver the car with the OEM runflats. In my situation - I also for various reasons don't accept runflats - so when I took delivery of my X3 I immediately took it to a tyre retailer (previously arranged) to change out the runflats for conventional tyres where I got credit back on the runflats. In my case I also got a spare matching rim with a full size spare which I keep permamently tied down in the back. My solution obviously will not work for everyone - but it suits us just fine.

I would not let any issue over the runflats deter you from considering the X3 - its a great car.

Tony
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      11-16-2011, 08:00 PM   #33
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Question for Brissim

Brissim is your spare also a BMW wheel?

I just need a steel wheel that I can use in the event of a flat to get out of remote country, it does not have to be another BMW alloy wheel.

Even a simple space saver that can bolt on would enable me to get back to where there is at least phone contact.
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      11-16-2011, 11:16 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colojim View Post
Brissim is your spare also a BMW wheel?

I just need a steel wheel that I can use in the event of a flat to get out of remote country, it does not have to be another BMW alloy wheel.

Even a simple space saver that can bolt on would enable me to get back to where there is at least phone contact.
Its a full size matching alloy wheel from BMW. I did initially start looking around for cheap wheel but finding a wheel suitable for the F25 (at least here in Australia) was proving problematic, so I bit the bullet and ordered a matching spare to my wheels (306s) through spare parts (cost $750 ouch!!). This also will allow me to rotate the spare through being used on the car as tyres need replacing so its not a huge extra cost for that convenience.

Don't like space saver tyres/wheels for much the same reason I don't like runflats. Plus by the time you've tied down a space-saver spare in the back - you might as well be using a full size spare for all the room it actually saves you.

Word of advice if you do decide to get a BMW wheel. Order it through spare parts and don't include it in to the purchase of your car (unless you can wangle a very good deal out of it). Otherwise there's a good chance you could end up paying the 33% LCT on the spare wheel.

Tony
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      12-21-2011, 02:05 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ant Man View Post
Perhaps not a priority for X3 owners but normal tyres are so much lighter than RFT. You would certainly notice the better handling when changing from RF to normal tyres.
Has anyone change from RFT to normal tyres?
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      12-21-2011, 10:54 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by degarfs View Post
Has anyone change from RFT to normal tyres?
As you can see from my posts above, I've replaced the runflats with conventional tyres. However as I did this right at delivery, I really can't comment on any before and after issues such as handling. However I must say I'd be surprised if swaping the runflats for conventional would improve handling because of any weight saving. Given that any weight saving is going to be low down well below the centre of gravity, I really don't see how this would improve handling.

The other argument could be that by going away from runflats with their stiffer sidewall, you may in fact have a negative impact on handling.

Tony
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      12-22-2011, 02:04 AM   #37
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After putting only 13,500 miles on my Continental ContiSport 3 SSR (Self Supporting Runflats) they showed signs of needing replacement (not terrible - but I don't like to get them all the way bald before I replace them).

I didn't like the choice of SSR or the price. I was able to get a better non SSR tire, a full size OEM wheel (front width), and another front tire. For now I am happy with the decision. The right is better, the grip is better, and the tires are lighter (meaning better fuel efficiency, handling, and acceleration / braking).

I am securing the full size spare flat in the trunk and standing it up on its side when I need to transport other items of size (like luggage). I bought a breaker bar, 17mm deep socket wrench, and a torque wrench that I store in the lower compartment in the trunk. I am still hunting for a good portable jack and tire repair kit (plug type, not goo). This is a very recent thing for me (new tires went on today).

I'm sure my next flat will be in the middle of the hood in the pouring rain and I will regret to hell not going with SSR's.

My thread about my decision and searching for some hardware is here:

http://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=625427
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      12-22-2011, 03:57 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brissim View Post
However I must say I'd be surprised if swaping the runflats for conventional would improve handling because of any weight saving. Given that any weight saving is going to be low down well below the centre of gravity, I really don't see how this would improve handling.

The other argument could be that by going away from runflats with their stiffer sidewall, you may in fact have a negative impact on handling.
Lotus might give you more detailed explanation, but the key factor having lighter tyres is the fact that "not suspensioned" weight is less than before.

The less you have "not suspensioned" weight, the better car should handle.
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      12-22-2011, 04:07 AM   #39
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i've gone from summer RFTs to winter non-RFTs, same rim size and the ride is definitely softer... tempted to stay with non-RFTs.
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      12-23-2011, 12:15 AM   #40
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They have to make the side walls of the RFTs stiff enough in order to be "Self Supporting". The tradeoff compared to nonRFTs is the added non-sprung weight that adversary affects handling and ride quality. The stiff side wall also lead to cupping problems especially if you like to have fun and wear pre-maturely(shorter service life span).
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      12-23-2011, 02:07 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brissim View Post
As you can see from my posts above, I've replaced the runflats with conventional tyres. However as I did this right at delivery, I really can't comment on any before and after issues such as handling. However I must say I'd be surprised if swaping the runflats for conventional would improve handling because of any weight saving. Given that any weight saving is going to be low down well below the centre of gravity, I really don't see how this would improve handling.

The other argument could be that by going away from runflats with their stiffer sidewall, you may in fact have a negative impact on handling.

Tony
Having lighter tires should cause significant benefits.

The tires are rotating and thus contain a polar moment of inertia (your entire car also has this about the primary axis... the most important of which is the Z axis... more inertia means it is harder to turn.... ie more stable).

With a lower polar moment of inertia the tire can accelerate faster (both accelerating and braking) from the same input moment. Thus your car can accelerate faster and brake faster.

Also your car should be easier to steer being of the smaller moment of inertia meaning a smaller aligning torque is necessary.

Finally, the lower unsprung mass (the wheel assemblies / suspension are not sprung by your suspension) will offer more responsive handling along with some other benefits that would be hard to determine without knowing more about the suspension geometry / designed naturally frequency.
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      12-27-2011, 12:39 PM   #42
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I want to change my runflats to non-runflat.
Now I have Pirelli P Zero 245/50/18 100Y runflat.

Which reglular tire must I choose ?
- Michelin Latitude Sport/Diamaris
- Continental ContiSportContact 3
- Bridgestone Turanza ER30
- Pirelli P Zero (non-runflat)
- Dunlop SP Sport Maxx GT

What did you choose ?
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      12-27-2011, 09:08 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven40 View Post
I want to change my runflats to non-runflat.
Now I have Pirelli P Zero 245/50/18 100Y runflat.

Which reglular tire must I choose ?
- Michelin Latitude Sport/Diamaris
- Continental ContiSportContact 3
- Bridgestone Turanza ER30
- Pirelli P Zero (non-runflat)
- Dunlop SP Sport Maxx GT

What did you choose ?
Although I wasn't able to get them because they aren't made in winter months I really wanted the Continental ExtremeContact DW tires. These are summer performance tires. I had the Continental ContiSportContact 3 SSR (run flats) and I really liked them. They didn't last very long though... only about 14,000 (I did drive in a spirited manner...). They still had some tread on them and the most wear was on the front inside of the tires. I just don't like playing chicken with low tread and a rainy winter season in Texas. The ExtremeContact DW's have a 50% higher tread rating and it is the same brand... so I imagine they will last at least 20k+ miles.

I ended up settling for Hankook Ventus V12 Evo summer performance tires. They were cheeper than the Continentals but I like them a lot. From what I understand I should be able to get 35k+ miles out of them. Their wet weather performance is excellent and I am equally impressed with the dry weather performance.

I will note that my choice of tire was more limited because I have the staggered setup (245/45-19 front 275/40-19 rear).
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      12-28-2011, 08:39 AM   #44
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Does anyone know at what temperature in the winter the sealant in the BMW Mobility kit "stops flowing" to assure a smooth distribution in the leaking tire? I know the tire may be warmer than the ambient air temperature, unless you find your tire flat in the AM's cold before even driving, but the sealant stored in an unheated vehicle may be significantly more viscous in the cold depending upon its chemical composition. Will it still work reliably at the colder North American winter temps?
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