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      02-02-2021, 02:57 AM   #1
michael69300
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Unhappy Electric Tailgate working partially

Hello everyone,

I have X3 F25 from 2015 with an the confort option and the electric tailgate.
Since 5 days, the tailgate is not working as it should.

When opening, it starts to unlock, raise around 10% and stop. I need to manually open.
When closing, the tailgate begin to go down, for about 10% and stop. I need to press the button again, and the tailgate makes again 10% down... etc until it reach the end...

I have checked the option of height of opening on Idrive, but it's maximum. I tried to changed to minimum, but nothing happened.

Any ideas ?

Here is the video this morning
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      02-02-2021, 07:35 AM   #2
KC87ZB
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I am not sure but the behavior makes me believe the sensors in the tailgate believe it has contacted something. So, essentially too much torque being applied to the actuators so they stop. Check cleanliness of hinges, free play of actuators where they pivot, electrical connectors, etc. Beyond that I would think the actuators themselves are at fault.
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      02-02-2021, 10:16 AM   #3
Wgosma
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Possibly worn out lift actuators/ lift spindle- previous/original owner of my 2012 X3 had I believe similar issue and Dealer then replaced under warranty at 28K miles.
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      02-02-2021, 12:45 PM   #4
arkow
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yep, i had that happened to my 2012 X3, be ready to fork out $1000 to get those replaced...
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      02-02-2021, 03:05 PM   #5
michael69300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkow View Post
yep, i had that happened to my 2012 X3, be ready to fork out $1000 to get those replaced...
Oh, and you changed both ? You had the same stuff as mine ( coming down a bit everytime you press the button )
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      02-03-2021, 06:32 AM   #6
Barbera335
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Looks like a bad HKL control unit to me. If you know someone with a similar F25 with powered rear hatch you could swap in their control unit easily for testing purposes and see if it fixes your issue. I have a feeling it will. I believe the control unit is down by the battery under the trunk floor.
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      02-03-2021, 09:21 AM   #7
JJ 911SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
Possibly worn out lift actuators...
Twice in 5 years on my MKX. If you are out of warranty, replace(s) them yourself.
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      02-03-2021, 02:36 PM   #8
michael69300
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Gone to check the car this afternoon (electronic diag) with an independant garage (40€) paid. The check gave this error :

801717 and 801719, something like HALL 1 and HALL 2 disconnected

I sprayed WD40 on HKFM support ( a white box near the battery ) and all is repaired... incredible...
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      02-03-2021, 02:52 PM   #9
michael69300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbera335 View Post
Looks like a bad HKL control unit to me. If you know someone with a similar F25 with powered rear hatch you could swap in their control unit easily for testing purposes and see if it fixes your issue. I have a feeling it will. I believe the control unit is down by the battery under the trunk floor.
You rock, i saw your message this evening. I gone to a specialist in electronics, the error message was something about sensor HALL 1 and HALL 2. I did some WD40 on this white box. It'es next to the battery on the left side.
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      02-03-2021, 09:18 PM   #10
Barbera335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael69300 View Post
You rock, i saw your message this evening. I gone to a specialist in electronics, the error message was something about sensor HALL 1 and HALL 2. I did some WD40 on this white box. It'es next to the battery on the left side.
I had a feeling the HKL module would be your problem but I have never heard of this WD40 trick. That is rather amazing but I am glad it worked out for you.
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      02-04-2021, 02:25 AM   #11
michael69300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbera335 View Post
I had a feeling the HKL module would be your problem but I have never heard of this WD40 trick. That is rather amazing but I am glad it worked out for you.
It was unexpected too, i was a bit afraid also to damage something on this HK module. By the way, the sensor HALL 1 and HALL 2 are connected on this module ?

I saw also a blue connector, behind the right tail light, near the fuses box. Do you know what is this connector ? it's very thin and square shape.
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      03-26-2021, 01:05 AM   #12
Terry H
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Thank you Michael69300 I will try this tomorrow I have the same issue with my 2014 X3.
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      03-26-2021, 01:10 AM   #13
Terry H
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Thank you michael69300 I will try this tomorrow. I have the same issue with my 2014 X3. If this works it is a much better option then the $528 BMW is charging per side for the lift motors. I will let you know how it works.
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      03-26-2021, 03:01 PM   #14
Terry H
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I tried it today and no luck it still only moves a couple of feet then stops same as your video. I tool the contacts off and cleaned them and still no luck. If any one has any other ideas I am all ears.
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      04-23-2021, 07:09 PM   #15
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Did this a year ago - $325'ish and a hr work to replace one of the struts. Get out there and do your own work folks - this is easy!
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      07-11-2022, 12:38 PM   #16
dgoettsche
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Had exact issue - replaced both myself and fixed

I had this exact identical issue.
I ordered 2 new power lift support from Amazon

A-Premium Rear Right Tailgate Power Lift Support Shock Strut Compatible with BMW F25 X3 2011-2015
and
A-Premium Rear Left Tailgate Power Lift Support Shock Strut Compatible with BMW F25 X3 2011-2015 Sport Utility
( this is from amazon Canada)

At first I was confused because the connector didn't match the one which connects to the HKL, but then I realized it connects to a secondary plug just behind each back panel cover.

Once I was able to remove the old ones, Installing the new ones was pretty straight forward.
Followed the directions and made sure to close the trunk after installing, before powering on the car.
After starting the car, I pushed the button to open and at first nothing.
So I opened the lift, thinking that perhaps since that was the last position, this was what the system was looking for.
I held down the close button for about 30 seconds.
After this, worked like a charm.

I couldn't figure out how to check which was the bad lift, which is why I just bought both.
with tax, cost me just over 500 CDN dollars.

Now, who knows how long these aftermarkets will last, but they work the same as the original (just as quiet etc)
no difference.

I only wish I could have figured out which was the bad one so I didn't have to buy both. I had voltmeter, but since it was closing partially, both gave a read on power. Hence which is why I didn't think it was the HKL unit.

Anyway. hope this helps.
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