[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by Sprusht

Thanks for replying, when you say it did not improve handling in corners do you mean it made it worse or no difference? Did it have more body roll? Did the steering become heavier? Any change in tyre wear rate and pattern?

no difference

(I do not drive it hard enough / do not push it)

Body roll is reduced

Steering is not any heavier, nothing I can tell anyway

Tire wear is yet to be determined ..... but I dont think it will be anything negative

Originally Posted by RL325xi

Perfect ride height !!.
What kind of suspension is that?
I have an exact same car like yours. 12' 35i Msport. Stock 19"
mine is just sit too high.

Thank you! I am on coilovers

[harrydunn]

Valve cover gasket replacement. Not a terrible job. I could knock a couple of hours off if I had to do it again. Did the plugs since I was in that deep and of course cracked the accordian PCV hose. Duct tape works fine until the new hose arrives Wednesday.

[TEF]

Learned by doing that a low tire pressure warning notice (in this case underinflated right rear tire) prevents one for selecting transmission to Sport or Ecomode. Will run only in comfort mode. After adding air and driving a few miles, warning notice vanished and transmission returned to normal.

[Houranimd49]

Originally Posted by harrydunn

Valve cover gasket replacement. Not a terrible job. I could knock a couple of hours off if I had to do it again. Did the plugs since I was in that deep and of course cracked the accordian PCV hose. Duct tape works fine until the new hose arrives Wednesday.

I hate that damn PCV pipe. I ended up replacing it with 3/4” heater hose. Best thing I did. And much cheaper

[harrydunn]

Originally Posted by Houranimd49

I hate that damn PCV pipe. I ended up replacing it with 3/4” heater hose. Best thing I did. And much cheaper

Good idea. You just left the electrical connector unhooked? Any lights?

[Houranimd49]

Originally Posted by harrydunn

Good idea. You just left the electrical connector unhooked? Any lights?

You can leave the connector on! Just cut off the accordion part on each connecting end and replace it with 3/4” heater hose. No hose clamps required because the fit is tight and it’s not seeing much pressure.

This is actually a great opportunity to run an oil catch can between there as well if you want to.

[conky81]

Just bought my F25 X3 a few weeks ago. 2011 xDrive35i M Sport.

Have had to fix a broken front spring. The pinch bolt was rusted. Thank the gods for heat and an impact gun going forward and reverse. Also, was such a pain to get the strut back in the knuckle. Had to remove the lower rear control arm to get the right rotation. New "self-taping" bolts up top to the strut mount didn't need to be changed, IMHO. The old ones bit right in.

The other major thing was that the front brake pads on the passenger side were toast. The pad material had broken off from the backing plate on both pads. Very strange. Wonder if that's from it sitting for several months, or overheating from a stuck caliper, or a manufacturing defect. Was both pads on the one side. I'll be keeping an eye on things.

Another strange thing was a seeming lack of diagrams that show the hose coming off the bottom of the expansion tank for a part number. What's the deal there? Previous owner didn't fix the leak, but I did. They were for sure putting concentrated green coolant in there to fill it up when the low coolant warning came up. I'll be doing a flush to blue soon.

I'll share some other cosmetic stuff when it's time to fix those. Now that the major stuff is done, what do you experienced F25 DIYers suggest for basic maintenance to get the X3 with 200,000kms back to solid foundations?

Thanks!

[F10.ovo]

Hey guys I need a little help here please, I own a 2013 bmw 528i with the n20 engine and my car has an oil leak from the oil filter and it leaks all over the right side of the bay and a couple of day ago the belt broke off and my dumb as girl friend decided to keep driving until the car shut off on her like a minute after the belt popped. Car will crank on then die 4 seconds later every time but tht was before we found out it was the belt so we towed it home.I replaced the belt and tried turning the car on and it cranks on and dies after 4 seconds of running. I also see tht I get codes 120408 and 130e20. I searched them up and those are do to timing chain functions, please tell me that I don’t have to replace them just yet I just need the car running I seen ppl driving with bad timing chains I just don’t know why the car cranks on then dies 4 seconds later.

[Aspen235]

Originally Posted by F10.ovo

Hey guys I need a little help here please, I own a 2013 bmw 528i with the n20 engine and my car has an oil leak from the oil filter and it leaks all over the right side of the bay and a couple of day ago the belt broke off and my dumb as girl friend decided to keep driving until the car shut off on her like a minute after the belt popped. Car will crank on then die 4 seconds later every time but tht was before we found out it was the belt so we towed it home.I replaced the belt and tried turning the car on and it cranks on and dies after 4 seconds of running. I also see tht I get codes 120408 and 130e20. I searched them up and those are do to timing chain functions, please tell me that I don’t have to replace them just yet I just need the car running I seen ppl driving with bad timing chains I just don’t know why the car cranks on then dies 4 seconds later.

Incorrect forum this is for X3. Anyway, N20 motor sometimes the acc. Belt breaks and gets sucked into the crank pulley and ends up trashing the timing chain. Very bad outcome needing new engine. Hopefully it has only messed up the timing and you can get the timing guides and chain replaced and calibrated.