[NurseBen]

So we had our first cold snap ( approx 33*f) and after sitting all night, I noticed that the car was difficult to crank initially and even sputtered a few times. I shut it off then cranked it right back. Started right up. I noted this evening that my engine light was on. So i let it sit a few hours, went back out, cranked it right up, and the liht was off. Did it again now the light is back on. Any ideas? No other symptoms and drives out fine. No loss of power. Have not checked the battery, but, I'm nearly certain that the dealership put a new battery in it when I purchased it in 2017. Just rolled 83k miles.

[tracer bullet]

Your signature says it's a 2017, but a new battery was put in it when you bought it?

Kind of sounds to me like the battery is not in great shape, the cold is making it worse, and you saw it when trying to start the car. If it couldn't quite do the job I'm sure you'll get one or more lights.

I'd highly consider a new battery and then clearing the codes. At that point you wait and see if it happens again.

There are testing options before replacing it but at 6 years old most advice will be to just replace it.

[Qsilver7]

The Check Engine Light is associated with your cars emissions systems. The reason for its existence in your car is from the 1996 federal OBD II mandate.

If you have a simple/generic OBD II scanner/reader...you can quickly pull the codes to see which area of your emissions systems created the fault code. If you don't have one or access to one...most automotive stores (AutoZone/Advanced Auto/O'Reilly's/Pep Boys/etc) will usually pull OBD II codes for free.

If you do use one of these stores to pull the codes...get a print out or write down any codes that are pulled. You can them simply google them to find many of the past discussions about that code since 1996.

Example, if you have a P0155 DTC (diagnostic trouble code)...simply type BMW OBD II P0155 into a google search box.

[NurseBen]

I spoke wrong. When I bought the car, I just assumed that they put in a new battery. I checked the voltage via the onboard systems check and cranked, the voltage is 14.8. When it is turned off, the voltage was 12.2 and fluctuated up to 12.4. Am I correct in assuming that this would rule out an alternator failure? I now have a message saying "battery discharged" or "battery discharged crank vehicle" (something along those lines). I notice zero issues while driving, all power accessories are working correctly, and I have no aftermarket accessories. Completely stock. I'm hoping it's just a bad battery. Please advise.

Also, I should point out that the CEL is no longer on.

[pungo]

Properly verify battery health (charge, rest, load test). Is 12.2 volts measured after sitting overnight? A 6 year old batt is probably near EOL

[NurseBen]

Yes. The 12 was after sitting. Went to 15 when running but glitches are still
Happening with electronics now. Maps won’t display but everything else will on center screen. And the exterior welcome lights are out.

[NurseBen]

Everything is back on and working properly. I’m still taking it to BMW to get checked out and a new battery installed.

[NurseBen]

UPDATE FOR ANYONE INTERESTED:

New battery went in today, solved all issues. They did have to reinitialize the panoramic roof, but aside from that, no hiccups. Betty White is back on the streets not skipping a beat.