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      09-19-2014, 07:50 AM   #23
bowler_1
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Replacing Front and Rear brake pads

Having been advised by my stealer that my rear brake pads needed changing and that they wanted £265 for the job (rears only), although there were no warning lights showing, I checked both front and rear pads visually through the wheels and could see that the fronts were about 5-6mm and the rears about 4-5mm.
Checked on the forum where there are several excellent write-ups and also on Google and as a retired mechanic I could see no issues in doing the change myself.
Purchased both front and rear sets of Pagid brake pads for about £72 and did both jobs yesterday in about 5 hours without any issues whatever. Just a note of warning, the sensors have a very small "U" shaped metal clip which falls off when you remove it from the brake pad and is easily missed when you do the first one !!. This clip ensures a tight fit between sensor and brake pad.
My X3 F25 has 23500 mls on the clock so I thought that changing pads was a bit premature. All discs were absolutely fine, no scoring or ridging.
The remaining pad thicknesses were: Front 6mm and Rears 4mm so actually I need not have changed the fronts yet but anyway job is now done. Incidentally thickness of new pads is Front 19mm and rears 18mm.
I will now need to reset the mileages in the iDrive system.
It seems to me that the sensors are not touched until the brake pad thickness gets to around 2-3mm as neither of my sensors had been touched.
Just saved myself about £450 .
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      04-17-2015, 04:22 PM   #24
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Bump for Sticky DIY section to be created
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      05-03-2015, 11:36 AM   #25
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thanks for the guide. i will be looking to get my hands dirty soon to do my front brakes. i have watched some videos of DIY BMW brakes, hopefully i wont be running into much trouble.
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      05-03-2015, 01:13 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodchuck1 View Post
Excellent writeup, thanks.

Whenever I have one pad on a wheel wear out faster than the other, I assume the cause is a stuck caliper. Do BMW brake pads not have that little metal tab that drags on the rotor to indicate wear? I bet they thought their electronic indicator was superior. Sometimes simpler is better.
Guys, I'm eyewhitness of the similar situation. One rear pad comlpetely out to the metal very soon. Other 3 pads almost new. It was fault of mechanic who changed pads last periodical service. Those pads can be accidentally installed in whong position. Because pad with sensor was nearly untouched, there was no cluster indication and result was metal squeeking when braking and disc damaged.
All was claimed and changed at dealer's expenses....
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      05-03-2015, 01:29 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowler_1 View Post
Having been advised by my stealer that my rear brake pads needed changing and that they wanted £265 for the job (rears only), although there were no warning lights showing, I checked both front and rear pads visually through the wheels and could see that the fronts were about 5-6mm and the rears about 4-5mm.
Checked on the forum where there are several excellent write-ups and also on Google and as a retired mechanic I could see no issues in doing the change myself.
Purchased both front and rear sets of Pagid brake pads for about £72 and did both jobs yesterday in about 5 hours without any issues whatever. Just a note of warning, the sensors have a very small "U" shaped metal clip which falls off when you remove it from the brake pad and is easily missed when you do the first one !!. This clip ensures a tight fit between sensor and brake pad.
My X3 F25 has 23500 mls on the clock so I thought that changing pads was a bit premature. All discs were absolutely fine, no scoring or ridging.
The remaining pad thicknesses were: Front 6mm and Rears 4mm so actually I need not have changed the fronts yet but anyway job is now done. Incidentally thickness of new pads is Front 19mm and rears 18mm.
I will now need to reset the mileages in the iDrive system.
It seems to me that the sensors are not touched until the brake pad thickness gets to around 2-3mm as neither of my sensors had been touched.
Just saved myself about £450 .
I believe in old fashion way:
1.Time ti time look at iDrive interval and reset it before it shows low mileage for change.
2. Drive normally until pad sensor is weared out. In this case you still have min. 2mm pad thickness (min. 5000km??) and can shop for new pads now.
3. Change pads with new sensor. DYI
4. Reset iDrive again.

Am I right??
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      05-04-2015, 02:10 AM   #28
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Just had my rear pads changed at 30k miles, were down to 3mm, cost at dealers £285 which is steep but as its still under warranty I dont want any issues. Fronts are still around 8mm and showing another 15k so happy with that.
we use cruise control and auto hold so 30k is fine. I expect the rotors are good for 60k miles so will expect to change then.
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      05-05-2015, 02:45 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plymjack View Post
Just had my rear pads changed at 30k miles, were down to 3mm, cost at dealers £285 which is steep but as its still under warranty I dont want any issues. Fronts are still around 8mm and showing another 15k so happy with that.
we use cruise control and auto hold so 30k is fine. I expect the rotors are good for 60k miles so will expect to change then.
This sounds good to me. I have about the same mileage, still front and rear pads original without warning. But thickness is low already.
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      05-05-2015, 06:36 PM   #30
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Just replaced the rears for the second time @ 59K miles. This time I replaced with Akebono pads and Zimmer rotors. I've noticed no difference in performance; but the amount of brake dust is near zero with the Akebono's. I brought the pads to the mechanic who told me that the Akebono's were his first choice for non OEM replacements and they out wear the BMW pads with almost no dust.
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      05-06-2015, 03:13 AM   #31
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What is the with limit on the rotors(front? Rear?) also,my dealer tild me that since handbrake is electric the motor for the brake should be zero set to retract the caliper allowing acces for new pads This could only be done electronic on their hooked up car analyzer (or something)
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      05-06-2015, 07:08 AM   #32
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Believe it's 18mm. Should be stamped on rotor.
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      05-07-2015, 03:12 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeschiotz
What is the with limit on the rotors(front? Rear?) also,my dealer tild me that since handbrake is electric the motor for the brake should be zero set to retract the caliper allowing acces for new pads This could only be done electronic on their hooked up car analyzer (or something)
I think the step you are asking about calls for the T45 to be inserted into the Electronic Hand Brake ( EHB) in a clockwise rotation to set it to "zero" for new pads.
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      05-08-2015, 12:45 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
I think the step you are asking about calls for the T45 to be inserted into the Electronic Hand Brake ( EHB) in a clockwise rotation to set it to "zero" for new pads.
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      05-08-2015, 08:28 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyX3driver View Post
Hehe,thats typical me just not reading all information! ThX anyway
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      05-13-2015, 09:27 PM   #36
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If you get the initial yellow warning and plan on doing your breaks yourself, reset the mileage meter (search on google) before it gets down to 0 Km or miles left. You absolutely need a new sensor if you get the red warning. Systems recognize the resistance of the old sensor and requires a new value to be reset if you have the red warning. The front is a bit of a pain to change, rear one is easily accessible.
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      05-20-2015, 07:03 AM   #37
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Brake wear yellow warning : cannot reset ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornet_Rider View Post
If you get the initial yellow warning and plan on doing your breaks yourself, reset the mileage meter (search on google) before it gets down to 0 Km or miles left. You absolutely need a new sensor if you get the red warning. Systems recognize the resistance of the old sensor and requires a new value to be reset if you have the red warning. The front is a bit of a pain to change, rear one is easily accessible.
2013 F25 2.8i : iDrive says about 300 miles before pad replacement, front and rear. Yellow warning still.

I had all the pads replaced and rotors turned yesterday. I was told that sensors were not touched and could be re-used.

Problem : when I go into the service menu to reset either front or rear warning, it let's me go through the process but then a message : "impossible to reset".

Could it be that I really need new sensors even if they appear to not have been worn ? Are they really "2-stage" sensors ?

Thanks !
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      05-20-2015, 10:42 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larrylotus View Post
2013 F25 2.8i : iDrive says about 300 miles before pad replacement, front and rear. Yellow warning still.

I had all the pads replaced and rotors turned yesterday. I was told that sensors were not touched and could be re-used.

Problem : when I go into the service menu to reset either front or rear warning, it let's me go through the process but then a message : "impossible to reset".

Could it be that I really need new sensors even if they appear to not have been worn ? Are they really "2-stage" sensors ?

Thanks !
Try unplugging, then replugging old sensors.

Believe they are three stages. Sensor wire with no resistance runs to outside of sensor with another wire with resistance runs parallel and to the inside of other wire. Before wear current runs through outside wire. When the sensor wears enough its cuts through outside wire. Current then runs through resistance causing drop in current which computer picks up. Finally if it wears through that wire causing no current flow and warning that "Everybody is gonna die of massive brake failure"

Last edited by Radioactive; 05-20-2015 at 09:30 PM..
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      05-22-2015, 06:42 PM   #39
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question
instead of T30/T45, can i use allen head 6/7mm?

watched alot of vids tutorials online for bmw brake job, they are all saying the allen head

thanks inadvance
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      05-22-2015, 08:17 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88
question
instead of T30/T45, can i use allen head 6/7mm?

watched alot of vids tutorials online for bmw brake job, they are all saying the allen head

thanks inadvance
Very possible if its the same size at the star points. From what I remember it was not very hard to turn. I guess if it came down to it a flat blade that fit snug could do it.
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      05-23-2015, 04:25 PM   #41
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Not that I can confirm it actually fits into it but I can confirm that 7 hex is the closest size to T45.
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      05-23-2015, 11:19 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
Not that I can confirm it actually fits into it but I can confirm that 7 hex is the closest size to T45.
thanks, ill try and report back.
6mm(T30) is for the rotor and 7mm(T45) is for the 2 plastic covers from behind the caliper.
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      07-13-2015, 09:00 PM   #43
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just replaced my front brake pads today. my 2nd DIY to the car next to engine air filter change. it is really rewarding for someone that's really noob mechanically. i would like to thank OP's post along with youtube vids!
I didn't take many pictures since i was busy working on it.


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      07-16-2015, 01:02 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
Not that I can confirm it actually fits into it but I can confirm that 7 hex is the closest size to T45.
After zeroing the EHBrake and putting on new pads, I have an yellow light on for "Parking brake malfunction". The EHBrake cannot engage when I put the parking brake. Actuator is not turning. Do you know how to reset? Thanks in advance!
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