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      12-04-2011, 05:19 PM   #1
Falconx3
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Mechanic\'s view, for what it\'s worth.

A BMW mechanic friend shared some thoughts:
-turbos coming back with problems in above average numbers. Surmises bad bearing or sulphur content in fuel.
- pan. Sunroofs coming in for repairs.
- they\'re seeing above average comfort access senors malfuncting.
He advises the naturally aspirated 3 litre is a proven workhorse.
- he strongly recommends doubling the oil change interval from 25,000km to 12,000km.
Just sharing.
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      12-04-2011, 05:27 PM   #2
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Ps - advises changing a headlight bulb requires removing bumper cover, dozens of screws and usually billed about two hours labour. Forget it DIYers. And no oil dipstick, and forget about changing your own oil. DIY brake pads are out as well. Wear sensors won't reset without dealer reset, and if not, then it will throw major engine errors down the road.
Interesting about the stuff they don't put in the brochure or glowing reviews.
Overall, he says it's a solid bimmer.
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      12-04-2011, 06:33 PM   #3
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O.K. you got my attention, can you please elaborate exactly what engine issues will develop after replacing brake pads & wear sensors and not having a computer reflash, body computer, engine mangement or drivetrain ?
Thanks for the info...
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      12-04-2011, 06:36 PM   #4
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Several members have already changed their own oil. Why is he saying it can't be done?

Last edited by Want the thrill; 12-04-2011 at 11:21 PM..
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      12-04-2011, 08:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Want the thrill View Post
Several memebers have already changed their own oil. Why is he saying it can't be done?
Tools
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      12-04-2011, 08:32 PM   #6
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[QUOTE=Chas;10918016]O.K. you got my attention, can you please elaborate exactly what engine issues will develop after replacing brake pads
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      12-04-2011, 10:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falconx3 View Post
Tools
An oil change is trivial on the F25, actually easier than our Subaru Legacy.
Easy to access the drain plug and possibly the easiest oil filter to change of any car since it's top-mounted. A proper oil filter wrench (Assenmacher V-410) makes it a little easier, but a strap wrench will also work. The lack of a dipstick is a slight nuisance, but the capacity of (at least the 28i & 35i) is well known at 7 quarts). All one does is either just add the 7 qts. (like the dealer does) or if you want to be very precise, add 6.5 qts., check the level with the electronic "dipstick" and then top-up as needed. Simple - No fuss.

There will probably be aftermarket reset tools to allow resetting the computer when replacing the brake pads, or at worst, a trip to the dealer's to request that they do the reset. Changing pads is no harder than on almost any other car. A trip is also required for a reset if you change a battery.

Some of your mechanic's points are certainly valid, but some seem to be a little over reactive. All cars are becoming more complex, and to meet the performance (including fuel efficiency performance) demands being made by the public, all will need to be more sophisticated, and will likely include many more (complex) parts. More, complex parts generally equal less reliability.

For what its worth: We all better learn to deal with it or go back to single speed bicycles.
It ain't gona get better for a long time!
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      12-04-2011, 10:53 PM   #8
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I thought there was a key sequence on the dash to reset the brake pad counter?
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      12-04-2011, 10:53 PM   #9
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Any hpfp fails with the turbos?
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      12-04-2011, 11:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walendvay View Post
Any hpfp fails with the turbos?
So far only (1) reported on this Forum.
See: Drive Train Failure

No recalls, and no high incidence of failures (Yet).
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      12-05-2011, 01:04 AM   #11
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Most of the points he brought up can be applied to any of the newer BMW's dating back to the 06 E90s. All the DIY problems are really not a problem for anyone who have been used to doing their own maintenance. My e92 M3 has all those DIY problems he listed, not once has it stopped me or my friends from doing oil changes to changing pads on the track, to closing the circuit on my brake sensors. The one part I'm mostly interested in is the sulphur content in fuel comment. Can he elaborate on that further?
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Last edited by bunnn; 12-05-2011 at 10:13 AM.. Reason: spelling
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      12-05-2011, 06:29 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falconx3 View Post
Ps - advises changing a headlight bulb requires removing bumper cover, dozens of screws and usually billed about two hours labour. Forget it DIYers. And no oil dipstick, and forget about changing your own oil. DIY brake pads are out as well. Wear sensors won't reset without dealer reset, and if not, then it will throw major engine errors down the road.
Interesting about the stuff they don't put in the brochure or glowing reviews.
Overall, he says it's a solid bimmer.
I've been around cars (old muscle cars, drag racing, etc. etc. ) what got my attention is yes the posibble sulphur issues with the tubo's and the major engine errors down the road from not resetting the computer.
Can you please find out what comuter needs the reflashing, I see alot of GM cars need reflashing of the BCM (body control module ) after window switches/locks are replaced. what computer will need the resetting , ECM, BCM, PCM etc. Thanks again.....
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      12-05-2011, 08:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
We all better learn to deal with it or go back to single speed bicycles.
This caught my attention because I'm an avid singlespeed mountain biker! LOL!
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      12-05-2011, 02:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toecutter View Post
This caught my attention because I'm an avid singlespeed mountain biker! LOL!
And, I'll bet it's easier to service than a X3!

Not to hijack this thread, but the X3 and bikes seem to go well together. We have a Cinelli Super Corsa (sew-up tires, definitely not run flats), Romic Road custom frame, Motobecane Grand Jubilee, (2) TREK 7000's (with almost exactly the same paint color as our X3) and a Montague Paratrooper. No single speeds or fixed-gear models so far.
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      12-05-2011, 02:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
And, I'll bet it's easier to service than a X3!

Not to hijack this thread, but the X3 and bikes seem to go well together. We have a Cinelli Super Corsa (sew-up tires, definitely not run flats), Romic Road custom frame, Motobecane Grand Jubilee, (2) TREK 7000's (with almost exactly the same paint color as our X3) and a Montague Paratrooper. No single speeds or fixed-gear models so far.
Hmm, I've got a Giant OCR C2, Cervelo RS and a Scott CR1. I was hoping to transport two of them inside and upright by taking off the seatpost and the front wheel and using this mounted to a 2x4.

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes...0_20000_400019


What do you think?
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      12-05-2011, 03:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
And, I'll bet it's easier to service than a X3!

Not to hijack this thread, but the X3 and bikes seem to go well together. We have a Cinelli Super Corsa (sew-up tires, definitely not run flats), Romic Road custom frame, Motobecane Grand Jubilee, (2) TREK 7000's (with almost exactly the same paint color as our X3) and a Montague Paratrooper. No single speeds or fixed-gear models so far.
Nice quiver!
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      12-05-2011, 03:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toecutter View Post

This caught my attention because I'm an avid singlespeed mountain biker! LOL!
You guys are nuts, saw a few of those come through a 100km enduro in a pretty smart time. Cannondale Caad9 roady and a Giant Anthem X1 here. Wife has a very old trek mtb.

Won't be roof mounting, more likely a towbar mounted rack.
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      12-05-2011, 06:28 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
And, I'll bet it's easier to service than a X3!

Not to hijack this thread, but the X3 and bikes seem to go well together. We have a Cinelli Super Corsa (sew-up tires, definitely not run flats), Romic Road custom frame, Motobecane Grand Jubilee, (2) TREK 7000's (with almost exactly the same paint color as our X3) and a Montague Paratrooper. No single speeds or fixed-gear models so far.

Let the hijack begin!
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      12-05-2011, 07:50 PM   #19
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my service rep says window regulators go quick at low mileage.
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      12-05-2011, 09:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h0mersimps0n View Post
my service rep says window regulators go quick at low mileage.
BMW window regulator failures have been chronic for at least 15 years. The cables break or come off the pulleys and jam. They last longer if you don't open the windows.

And then there are those darn tires, brake pads, clutch disks, headlight bulbs, batteries, dampers, suspension bushings and windshield wiper blades. Considering the cost of a BMW, everything should last for at least the life of the original owner and his/her first generation of offspring. The paint should be self polishing and the body should repair itself if it suffers a collision.

We all know that a car can be built to last forever and get 250 miles per gallon of fermented kelp juice, but the military/commercial/political conspiracy is keeping it from the public.

C'mon BMW engineers, if you're as good as you say you are, what's the problem?*

*Oh there's the little matter of the laws of physics.
Nevermind.

BMWs are not as reliable as a Toyota Camry, never have been, never will be.
Of course, they're not as boring either.
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      12-05-2011, 09:46 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filski View Post
You guys are nuts, saw a few of those come through a 100km enduro in a pretty smart time. Cannondale Caad9 roady and a Giant Anthem X1 here. Wife has a very old trek mtb.

Won't be roof mounting, more likely a towbar mounted rack.
I didn't realize how challenging yet addictive S/S riding could be until I tried it. Felt like my heart was going to explode in spectacular fashion! It only hurts for a little while...

LOL
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      12-06-2011, 04:48 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
BMW window regulator failures have been chronic for at least 15 years. The cables break or come off the pulleys and jam. They last longer if you don't open the windows.

And then there are those darn tires, brake pads, clutch disks, headlight bulbs, batteries, dampers, suspension bushings and windshield wiper blades. Considering the cost of a BMW, everything should last for at least the life of the original owner and his/her first generation of offspring. The paint should be self polishing and the body should repair itself if it suffers a collision.

We all know that a car can be built to last forever and get 250 miles per gallon of fermented kelp juice, but the military/commercial/political conspiracy is keeping it from the public.

C'mon BMW engineers, if you're as good as you say you are, what's the problem?*

*Oh there's the little matter of the laws of physics.
Nevermind.

BMWs are not as reliable as a Toyota Camry, never have been, never will be.
Of course, they're not as boring either.
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