[Crashnbrn5]

Hello everyone thanks for watching first and foremost. I installed the K&N air filter at around 3000 miles on the clock. I've been procrastinating to get this thing cleaned; I knew it was dirty because I felt slightly slower performance. Here is a video of me taking out the filter and replacing it with the original.

I want to clean the K&N really really good before putting it back. I didn't see any videos of doing this on the F25 X3 35i.

Have a great weekend everyone.

[Tjalle]

Nice film.
And you? Gasmask?
Living on the west coast of Sweden, my only concern is the southwesterly winds bringing polluted air from the Bxxxxxx Isles.

x=censured

[Mingstar88]

nice video, really easy DIY, waiting for mine to come from amazon then i'll be replacing it.

[Peter_R]

Originally Posted by Tjalle

And you? Gasmask?
Living on the west coast of Sweden, my only concern is the southwesterly winds bringing polluted air from the Bxxxxxx Isles.

x=censured

I agree..it is being exhaled by all those sxxxxxs who have migrated there.

Naturally x=censored also!

You know I am only joking!

I was pleased to hear in the commentary that you should do this operation without the engine running. Without doubt you should never carry out servicing of this type with the engine running for obvious Health & Safety reasons.

[The X Men]

These high flow air filters let in more dirt than paper filters. If the K&N filter is that dirty, imagine how much dirt it let into your engine.

[Crashnbrn5]

Originally Posted by The X Men

These high flow air filters let in more dirt than paper filters. If the K&N filter is that dirty, imagine how much dirt it let into your engine.

Although it's only been proven in theory never technically. When you say things like this you should provide a link or a factual statement. Just my thoughts my friend. I can promise you that the inside of my engine is spotless.

[Radioactive]

Not seeing the logic here. It has been proven over and over, millions of times daily if a particle is smaller than an opening it can go through. Just today, I walked through a door way that was larger than myself. Now as for your engine being "spotless" on the inside where your K&N "filtered" air goes; I assume for your statement to be technically true, not just theory, is that you have been inside the cylinders with the proper equipment to see that no wear or damage to the cylinder walls have occurred.

[Crashnbrn5]

Originally Posted by Radioactive

Not seeing the logic here. It has been proven over and over, millions of times daily if a particle is smaller than an opening it can go through. Just today, I walked through a door way that was larger than myself. Now as for your engine being "spotless" on the inside where your K&N "filtered" air goes; I assume for your statement to be technically true, not just theory, is that you have been inside the cylinders with the proper equipment to see that no wear or damage to the cylinder walls have occurred.

You know you're talking about things that are about 20 years old. These filters have been improved hand over fist the last two decades. Spotless because my performance is just as good and optimum as it should be. If it were dirty then it wouldn't be performing as good. People on the Internet are so funny.

[///Mposter]

Originally Posted by Crashnbrn5

You know you're talking about things that are about 20 years old. These filters have been improved hand over fist the last two decades. Spotless because my performance is just as good and optimum as it should be. If it were dirty then it wouldn't be performing as good. People on the Internet are so funny.

As for my take on the argument , OEM paper filters are extra restrictive to catch way more than a K&N , but when properly oiled the K&N could catch as many particles. There in lies the problem; when washed and not oiled properly, it will not perform correctly.
As for particles that do pass , the engine oil life will be reduced to a shorter interval. It's probably no different than some of the carbon buildup getting into the chamber , or the PCV allowing dirty oil and particles into the intake tract.
Anyway, thanks for the video and time you took to do it .

[Crashnbrn5]

Originally Posted by ///Mposter

As for my take on the argument , OEM paper filters are extra restrictive to catch way more than a K&N , but when properly oiled the K&N could catch as many particles. There in lies the problem; when washed and not oiled properly, it will not perform correctly.
As for particles that do pass , the engine oil life will be reduced to a shorter interval. It's probably no different than some of the carbon buildup getting into the chamber , or the PCV allowing dirty oil and particles into the intake tract.
Anyway, thanks for the video and time you took to do it .

You are absolutely correct when cleaned and oiled properly to perfection it's going to give you excellent performance.

[The X Men]

Originally Posted by Crashnbrn5

Although it's only been proven in theory never technically. When you say things like this you should provide a link or a factual statement. Just my thoughts my friend. I can promise you that the inside of my engine is spotless.

I think even with a paper filter, the inside of any engine will not be spotless. I use to use K&N on my normally aspirated engine cars and there is a tiny bit of difference in sound and power at the very top end of the rpm, not really enough to justify the cost and the poor air filtration. A normally aspirated engine pulls air in and the flow can be obstructed by a dirty or low flowing filter. A turbo on the other hand is not affected as much because of the forced compression. The other issue with K&N is cleaning and re-oiling. You can very easily over-oil the filter which can lead to damage of airflow sensors downstream of the filter, or you can under-oil it and not get the proper filtering performance. I find that just dropping in a new OEM paper filter every 20K miles or so is a lot easier IMO. Its been proven in many individual lab test that paper filter performs better than cotton as far as filtration is concern.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm

[Crashnbrn5]

Originally Posted by The X Men

I think even with a paper filter, the inside of any engine will not be spotless. I use to use K&N on my normally aspirated engine cars and there is a tiny bit of difference in sound and power at the very top end of the rpm, not really enough to justify the cost and the poor air filtration. A normally aspirated engine pulls air in and the flow can be obstructed by a dirty or low flowing filter. A turbo on the other hand is not affected as much because of the forced compression. The other issue with K&N is cleaning and re-oiling. You can very easily over-oil the filter which can lead to damage of airflow sensors downstream of the filter, or you can under-oil it and not get the proper filtering performance. I find that just dropping in a new OEM paper filter every 20K miles or so is a lot easier IMO. Its been proven in many individual lab test that paper filter performs better than cotton as far as filtration is concern.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm

I've been using these K&N drop-in's since my very first car; Mitsubishi Galant V6. Lol. Which was in 2001.

Never had a problem before. Reading directions helps when you are dealing with potentially fkin up your engine. You must oil these correctly, no doubt. But the topic here is going out of bounds. This has been beaten like a dead horse.

From my experience K&N > Paper filter performance wise

Paper filter = K&N ,when cleaned properly.

You mentioned cost a factor, in terms of value received. Anything less than $100 when you have a BMW should be dismissed. PERIOD.

[Mingstar88]

did mine today.
stealership won't do it under warranty
46-47,000KM





VACUUM the dirty stuff, wiped a little..

[The X Men]

Mahle is the oem filter for many European cars, they make a quality product.