06-06-2021, 03:05 PM | #1 |
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Drive train malfunction. Full output not available.
I have a 2015 X-3 Xdrive35i She has 105K miles on here and has been a very reliable vehicle.
I had some oil leak problems, so I replaced the valve cover gasket. I had some misfire and throttle lean codes pop. I went back in and reseated all electrical connectors and made sure the airbag was properly connected and seated. All codes cleared and didn't return. Then I replaced the oil filter housing assembly gasket. After that no check engine light and no codes, but I do get this Drive train malfunction warning. I only get it when accelerating on the freeway on ramp. If I accelerate very slowly, it doesn't pop. It does seem to lack power when accelerating onto the freeway. This is a very ambitious code, but given the lack of accelartiona and that it only pops when trying to accelerate fast, any ides on what could cause this? Bad spark plug? Fuel injector? Coil pack? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! |
06-08-2021, 12:17 AM | #2 |
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A while ago I read about someone having the same issue after replacing the valve cover gasket and what the solution was that they mixed up the two vacuum lines on the passenger side of the valve cover. I would double check those lines because I believe they work with the turbo somehow and would explain why the drive train malfunction occurs when accelerating harder than usual because the turbo is being used more.
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06-14-2021, 02:11 PM | #3 |
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I don't know if the 2015 35i has vacuum turbo wastegates or electronic. If vacuum this could be a misconnected hose. Best to check the code and see what it ways. If it is boost pressure or something like then could be hoses. Again, not sure on your specific car.
When I had damaged inlet vanes I would get a DT malfunction and code would be boost pressure related. Not a wastegate issue but if you are dumping boost unexpectedly then could be getting the same codes. |
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06-14-2021, 02:54 PM | #4 | |
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06-15-2021, 07:35 AM | #5 |
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I don't want to disagree but you need to do a full check for codes. Drivetrain Malfunction indicates a problem and a code is stored somewhere. Go through them all carefully. I use BimmerLink and found my boost codes burried in there. Nothing goes unrecorded.
If you cannot identify the culprit and don't see anything of great concern then clear all codes and drive it again, when you get the DTM error, check them again; it will be there. Don't waste your time and money replacing things as the first step. |
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06-15-2021, 02:15 PM | #6 |
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I got the same message after changing my valve cover and oil cooler gasket. I didn't have the charge pipe on the driver's side fastened correctly. Reseat and retighten and all is well.
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06-24-2021, 10:58 PM | #7 |
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Hello everyone. I appreciate the replies.
I found this vacuum hose disconnected. Could this cause the problem? What is this line called? I know it goes down between air intake manifold, but cant figure out where it connects to. Any ideas? |
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06-25-2021, 09:00 AM | #8 |
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A disconnected vacuum hose is not good and may or may not be your problem. If you missed a vacuum hose, who knows what else you may have missed? That's why it pays to take a few pics before you dive into taking thing apart so you can reference them if needed for reassembly. Sorry, I don't know where that hose connects, but I'd start with realoem and or TIS.
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06-25-2021, 11:46 AM | #9 |
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Thanks everyone!
All my problems have been resolved. 1. The disconnected lower vacuum hose was disconnected when I was replacing the coil packs. I did actually take a picture, but it runs down into the air intake manifold. After some searching I found the nipple that was missing a hose. Voila! 2. The overall issue of the drive train malfunction was apparently a bad coil pack. I dont like easter egging, but I didn't have any check engine light or codes. Also the car has 107K miles so I figured they might need replacing, and it was the easiest thing to replace. Happy to report that apparently it was a bad coil pack because I replaced them and not that error is gone and my baby has all her power back. Thanks everyone!!! |
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06-25-2021, 12:05 PM | #11 |
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Also, looking at it, what is going on with your ground bolt for your injectors? That does not look right. Is that plastic?? If you click on my picture you can pull up the full thing and then zoom in. May or may not be the cause of your issue, but I'd make sure you get the ground on the injectors correctly.
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06-25-2021, 12:28 PM | #12 | |
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07-05-2021, 01:14 PM | #14 |
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same problem
I changed my valve cover, spark plugs and ignition coils this weekend and have the same problem. Car idles nicely but clearly is lacking boost when you accelerate and the drivetrain malfunction indicator is on. I ran ISTA and came back with a 120308 which is low/no boost and matches my symptoms. I saw that previous thread indicating that the vacuum hoses could be swapped, i swapped them but it didn't fix my problem. To be honest not sure how it could, those two vacuum ports off the valve cover should be seeing the same readings, am I misinterpreting what was in that thread? Pic below shows what I swapped as well as the diagnosis.
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07-05-2021, 02:18 PM | #15 | |
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07-05-2021, 02:42 PM | #16 |
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I'll double check it, but it's a brand new valve cover that I put on this weekend, so I suspect it's just the flash making it look weird.
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07-05-2021, 04:45 PM | #17 | |
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So I checked, it's not cracked.. I drove to the store, no aggressive acceleration, the MIL went away. Hit WOT driving back and it came on.. Monitoring the OBD2 port it seemed the max boost I hit under WOT was about 4 PSI. Ordered a new pressure converter, but I'm just stabbing in dark here..
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07-10-2021, 01:03 PM | #18 |
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New pressure converter and new "sucking jet pump line" (whoever worked on the car previously did a number on the clips), still no joy. I'm stumped, boost was fine before I the valve covers/plugs/coils, I see no visible sign of leaks, car runs perfectly except when on boost
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07-10-2021, 03:51 PM | #20 |
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07-11-2021, 07:54 AM | #21 |
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Similar low boost condition/fix
My 2013 had similar symptoms,with low boost.After much frustration,mechanic checked the electrical waste gate valve and performed assy check of the waste gate valve,and found it was not closing properly.The onboard diagnostic tool instructions told the technician how much to adjust the linkage to bring into spec.After 4 full turns of the wastegate linkage,he could tell on his lap top that the waste gate was fully closing with more indicated travel noted.This saved me a turbocharger replacement.Hope this helps. I had the N20 motor .good luck
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07-11-2021, 09:59 AM | #22 |
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What gets me is that everything was working perfectly until I did the VC/spark plug/coil job, so I almost feel like it has to be that I connected something incorrectly.
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