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      07-05-2016, 12:55 PM   #1
Sfkjeld
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Transfer case failure?

Finally got my "missing" issue diagnosed. Sounds like the hesitation or missing that I felt was in the transfer case. Not engaging the AWD reliably. Of course, the shop had to replace the manifold flaps first, thinking that was the source of the "missing". $1500 later, the car still "misses".

They said it could be the actuator motor as well. So has anyone seen this before? And if so, did you just replace the transfer case? Is a rebuilt unit ok to use?
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      07-10-2016, 03:55 AM   #2
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Sometimes it can be cured by just changing the oil in the transfer case.

It could also be the plastic gear inside the transfer box, BMW recommend a new box however the gear can be purchased from various sellers on Ebay and replaced for a small amount of money.

Do a search for X3 transfer box issues on the internet and plenty of things come up including videos on how to replace the gear.
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      09-02-2016, 03:54 PM   #3
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Had similar problems

If you have all three lights on (4x4, brake and another one) it is likely the transfer case actuator motor, specifically the little plastic wheel that wears out. I replaced mine in about 2 hours for $10 for the part that I bought online.

However, my transfer case seems to be more damaged, I am having erratic shifts now under acceleration and some mechanical noises. The transfer case itself apparently wears out after 100k miles or so, especially without oil changes. I just bought a rebuilt one from Libson Twin City for $1250 (without the actuator motor). It is supposedly factory rebuild by Magna in Austria and has a 12 months warranty. The OEM part from BMW is about $3000.

One thing that ruins the transfer case is unevenly worn tires! I believe that is what did mine in, wished I would have known! Good luck!
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      09-06-2016, 12:05 AM   #4
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I have the same issues... here is a post you should check out:

(I think it's your clutch plates)

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...long-post.html
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      12-28-2016, 09:50 PM   #5
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X drive problems

Agree with Mikesmith try changing the transfer case oil first. Super easy takes 10 minutes but the "special" oil is really expensive ($60/ltr) but it only takes half a liter. I was having problems with the all wheel drive and the dealership wanted some crazy money to replace the actuator motor. One of the mechanics there I know from an independent garage told me to try changing the transfer case oil so I did and voila no more problems and that was 60K miles ago. May not work but worth a try.
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      02-27-2017, 07:35 AM   #6
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Some random thoughts on the transfer case gear:

BMW now has a gear repair kit as a stock item. Its somewhere less than $200, and has the great advantage of coming with a new cover plate (and C-clip). When you do the repair, drill a hole in the old cover and pry it off (rather than mucking up the crimped edge; you can clean that up nicely with a file after popping off the cover.)

If you are on the cheap, you can always rotate the old gear around 180 deg and get a 2nd life out of it. Of course you have to save the cover and not drill any holes in it.

Remember you'll need a diagnostic hookup after changing the oil to reset the life-counter, and to have it re-learn the clutch engage/disengage points.

Do not fall for the aluminum replacement gear on ebay. That was destroyed in short order and jammed the worm gear, with the clutch fully engaged I should say (that makes an experience out of turning into a parking place). Anyway, no aluminum replacement gears!!!

Pay heed to the warning about tires with different wear or DIFFERENT PRESSURES! These will cause constant actuation of the transfer case because it thinks the (different diameter) tires are slipping. (same issue as tires with different wear). (this caused the death of the aluminum gear, but I am sure a plastic one would have lasted longer against the hardened worm gear of the actuator motor)

-Hugh
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      11-17-2017, 02:18 PM   #7
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Yup same here. I'm in Germany and the dealer quoted me 2,700Euros for the fix. I decided against it and they still charged 350Euros just for the diagnosis.
The 4x4 light stays on, but in the past I've had the 4x4, ABS, and BRAKE lights all come on together once or twice. Thing is, I gotta sell the damn thing next summer because we'll be moving away and I'm torn between getting it fixed or selling it as is-- that is of course if it lasts that long.
At this point I'm sick of pumping money into this thing.
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      12-15-2017, 05:20 PM   #8
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No lights for 4x4 or anything else

Note: my X3 is a manual 6sp. But there is a clunk you can feel when off the throttle and coasting to a stop before engaging the clutch. My previous X3, an auto trans, did the same thing later in its life.
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      12-17-2017, 09:09 PM   #9
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Did they follow SI B27 04 15? Many mechanics often misdiagnose "hesitation" as the transfer case when in reality, it could be something as simple as a VANOS solenoid or coilpack (ask me how I know...a reputable BMW mechanic (according to Google reviews) diagnosed my X3's hesitation as the transfer case simply because the old fluid looked grimy...in reality the transfer case has no issues and I confirmed that it passes the service bulletin). It's best to follow that service procedure and test the clutch pack...if it fails any of those tests, then you have to replace the clutch pack....which can only be DIY'd cause mechanics want to replace the entire transfer case instead of repairing it. The actuator gear will trigger lights if it's bad, so if there are no lights, that's most likely not the issue. You'll also need ISTA-D to change the oil and run the oil reset procedure (calibrates the clutches...this is very important and mechanics forget this...because they think it's not). If you still have hesitation, disconnect the servomotor plugs and drive like normal (RWD no ABS). If hesitation is gone, then transfer case is the issue (either internal or actuator motor...most likely internal), if hesitation still persists, there's another issue and the transfer-case if fine.
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      01-03-2018, 07:55 PM   #10
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I think you are right frisbeeguy. Just had the car in the shop to check out the transfer case. Had the gear repair kit installed even tho there there was no 4x4 light on. Had the oil changed (again) and the shift point settings done. Got the car back today. Drives exactly the same. Some hesitation at low rpm and clunky gear changes. I don’t think there was ever anything wrong with the transfer case. Was told the drive line was solid, but am doubting it. Think the clunking (again, it’s a 6sp manual) is from slop drive line somewhere. At 96k, decided to stop worrying about it.
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      02-28-2018, 02:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mplass View Post
...
One thing that ruins the transfer case is unevenly worn tires! I believe that is what did mine in, wished I would have known! Good luck!
Ok so this is worrying me a little. I replaced the tyres on my wife's E83 as they were worn a tthe tread and I also noticed some feathering on the outside tread of the fronts.

A couple of thousand KM on the new tyres and the feathering seems be appearing again.

No issues with driving and no lights on the dash. Using P A Soft there are no codes stored.

Currently on approx. 130k km.

Any ideas?

TIA
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      03-03-2018, 01:40 PM   #12
Sfkjeld
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frisbeeguy View Post
disconnect the servomotor plugs and drive like normal (RWD no ABS). If hesitation is gone, then transfer case is the issue (either internal or actuator motor...most likely internal), if hesitation still persists, there's another issue and the transfer-case if fine.
found a posting that refers to the transfer case electronic unit which engages the transfer case. By disconnecting the 6 pin connector, it is said to turn the car to RWD no ABS. I only want to do this to see of the shuddering stops, indictating that the problem really is the transfer case. The module is supposed to be on the floor in the back seat area. Anyone have an idea where it might be?
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Last edited by Sfkjeld; 03-03-2018 at 02:54 PM.. Reason: Update
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      03-03-2018, 03:25 PM   #13
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Yes, exactly, by disconnecting the wires either under the car, or inside, you turn off the transfer case (making the car RWD with no ABS). I don't know where the module exactly is, since I didn't disconnect it that way. The service manual here: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ would help with removing trim...that'll be an interesting way to do it if you choose to do so. According to your picture, it looks like it's behind the luggage compartment trim, so you gotta remove some trim pieces to get to it. I'd suggest just unplugging from under the car. It takes only a minute. As for the video I linked you, I'm talking about the 2 wires from 3:56-4:13. Loosen the heat shield by removing the one 10mm hex, and pull it down. Then with a pick, disconnect the 2 plugs (they're snap-tabs). DO NOT UNBOLT any parts of the transfer case crossmember (the big black bar). It is kind of a tight space to work with and it will be in the way, but with patience, it's pretty easy once you do it.

Edit: here's the inside location: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...er-box/RLiLfFA
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      03-04-2018, 11:39 AM   #14
Sfkjeld
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Frustrating, still can’t find the module.
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      03-05-2018, 10:06 PM   #15
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lol. Just unplug it from under the vehicle.
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      03-06-2018, 03:27 AM   #16
Sfkjeld
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If this thing is easily accessible from inside the car, it sure sounds better to this 65 year old than fooling around under the car. Besides, I have decided the problem is most likely the transfer case anyway. Confirmed by my new scanner. The car is throwing a transfer case fault code on top of the fact the shuddering is becoming more like lurching.

Think it’s rebuilt transfer case time......
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      03-06-2018, 04:46 PM   #17
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Guessing it's throwing the 539E (Transfer Case Malfunction) code? More Info here: https://us.autologic.com/news/bmw-x3...-transfer-case
Expensive fix unless you can DIY the rebuild.
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      03-08-2018, 04:31 AM   #18
Sfkjeld
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Yes, that was the code. I did clear the code and it has not returned, but the slipping clutch plates seems to be worsening.

Have seen a number of rebuilt transfer cases, tho prices vary a great deal. Assume so does the quality. But with a car approaching 100k mi I don’t see buying a brand new transfer case. I wonder if there is a rebuilt unit that would make sense.
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      03-09-2018, 03:24 AM   #19
Sfkjeld
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Rebuilt Transfer Case

Believe I am going with a rebuild from these people in Southern California. Have spoken to a few shops that install them. None have years of experience with the rebuilds, but so far they have all been fine. About $1k for the case and $750 to install. The only reservation I have is the relatively short warranty period. 6 months. Not great, but also not unusual am told.

http://www.tcbmwx5.com
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      03-26-2018, 08:35 AM   #20
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Urgh... dealing with the xmas-dashlight show now.

My 2007 X3 is going though this right now... all three lights go on after 5 mins of driving. Had a trany flush that did nothing. Is now with mechanic who's going to diagnose. Good mechanic but doesn't have all the diagnostic equip like the dealers have... you all think he will be able to know what's going on? ... and will there be a way to reset all the lights if the darned thing gets corrected? Have an after-market warranty service that says it's supposed to cover transfer case in a worse case scenario... keeping my fingers crossed (holding my breath being they always look for a way not to cover anything).
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      03-26-2018, 09:52 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98 M3 VAS View Post
My 2007 X3 is going though this right now... all three lights go on after 5 mins of driving. Had a trany flush that did nothing. Is now with mechanic who's going to diagnose. Good mechanic but doesn't have all the diagnostic equip like the dealers have... you all think he will be able to know what's going on? ... and will there be a way to reset all the lights if the darned thing gets corrected? Have an after-market warranty service that says it's supposed to cover transfer case in a worse case scenario... keeping my fingers crossed (holding my breath being they always look for a way not to cover anything).
Since you have an aftermarket warranty, sounds like you bought the vehicle used? Usually the mechanic has to strip the "transfer case" to prove it is defective, and if the insurance agent denies the claim (happens when nothing "visible" is stripped), you have a big repair bill. Your mechanic will have NO IDEA what to do if he does not use ISTA/D and INPA (Autologic does not suffice...typical independent scan tool) Both are extremely important to see BMW trouble codes. If he has neither, basically you'll be throwing money at parts+service for no reason. Based off what you said, sounds to me like the transfer case actuator plastic gear has stripped. You can test this by having one person under the car, have another at the driver's sear and remove the key from the ignition (turning the car off). If the person under the car hears any grinding, then that confirm that it is the actuator. More Info here: https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/B...roblem-And-Fix
Your mechanic should be following these diagnosis steps with ISTA/D (most don't sadly): https://us.autologic.com/news/bmw-x3...-transfer-case
To do those tests, the servomotor would have to be removed from the transfer case, but still have plugs attached to it. The commands will be given from a laptop with ISTA/D.
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      03-30-2018, 11:45 AM   #22
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Thank you very much for your reply, it sounds very helpful. I'm fairly certain this mechanic does not have sophisticated diagnostics... supposed to hear from him today to see what he found, if anything, after opening it up. From there I'll be keeping my fingers crossed about getting the claim submitted/accepted to the warranty service. I'll send the mechanic your advice. Thanks again!!
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