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      11-12-2020, 11:36 AM   #1
dtox9
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F25 owners w/ rear dash cams

Anybody have any issues after installing their rear dashcam on the back glass with their key fobs not working properly? Or rear glass defrost, etc?

I couldn't find any detail here with a search... but did find a couple of different mentions out there in the wild wild web.

Wasn't sure if the issue was where the cables were run, or where the camera was mounted that made any difference.

Where's your camera mounted?
Where did you run your wires?
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      11-12-2020, 01:17 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtox9 View Post
Anybody have any issues after installing their rear dashcam on the back glass with their key fobs not working properly? Or rear glass defrost, etc?

I couldn't find any detail here with a search... but did find a couple of different mentions out there in the wild wild web.

Wasn't sure if the issue was where the cables were run, or where the camera was mounted that made any difference.

Where's your camera mounted?
Where did you run your wires?
I have my rear cam mounted at the top center. No issues. Wire runs under the trim and is routed with the factory wires back to the body.

Have you verified your fob battery isn't low?
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      11-12-2020, 01:50 PM   #3
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If you're asking about aftermarket dashcam setups, look back on a previous thread regarding dash cams. I took mine out because the comfort access was not working properly and the car also had trouble detecting the key. I got the CAS module replaced my BMW but it still wasn't 100%. I had to put the key to the steering column to start the car every time. Removed the rear cam and all is fine.
I ran my wires from the dash cam on front, underneath trim and headliner on the passenger side.
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      11-12-2020, 02:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_MAN View Post
If you're asking about aftermarket dashcam setups, look back on a previous thread regarding dash cams. I took mine out because the comfort access was not working properly and the car also had trouble detecting the key. I got the CAS module replaced my BMW but it still wasn't 100%. I had to put the key to the steering column to start the car every time. Removed the rear cam and all is fine.
I ran my wires from the dash cam on front, underneath trim and headliner on the passenger side.
Thanks Mike-Man... it may have been one of your posts that alerted me to the possibility of this interference...

Did you happen to try to re-route the cable along the drivers side, or down across the bottom at all? Or did you only try the one route along the passenger side at the headliner?
and
How close to the top of the glass did you mount your camera?

Do we know where the antenna is located on the F25 to pick up the Fob signal? Maybe it's just a matter of avoiding that area with the power cable?
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      11-12-2020, 04:36 PM   #5
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Following as I was about to mount a rear cam this weekend.....
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      11-13-2020, 12:50 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtox9 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_MAN View Post
If you're asking about aftermarket dashcam setups, look back on a previous thread regarding dash cams. I took mine out because the comfort access was not working properly and the car also had trouble detecting the key. I got the CAS module replaced my BMW but it still wasn't 100%. I had to put the key to the steering column to start the car every time. Removed the rear cam and all is fine.
I ran my wires from the dash cam on front, underneath trim and headliner on the passenger side.
Thanks Mike-Man... it may have been one of your posts that alerted me to the possibility of this interference...

Did you happen to try to re-route the cable along the drivers side, or down across the bottom at all? Or did you only try the one route along the passenger side at the headliner?
and
How close to the top of the glass did you mount your camera?

Do we know where the antenna is located on the F25 to pick up the Fob signal? Maybe it's just a matter of avoiding that area with the power cable?
Mine is routed the same way... power runs from the rear fuse box, up the C pillar to the headliner, then down the passenger side headliner to the windshield. Rear cam power/video wire runs the same path to the C pillar then continues on.

Mine is a Blackvue DR650.

Are you wiring it in properly or plugging it into the center 12v outlet? See SIB below.

00 07 13 (923)

Check Control message "Remote key not in vehicle"
All series with the Comfort Access optional equipment
Subject matter

The Check Control message "Remote key not in vehicle" is output even though the remote key is inside the passenger compartment.

Action

There is no fault in the Comfort Access system. Replacement of the ID transmitter does not achieve the objective.
Technical system limitations may mean that the vehicle fails to identify the ID transmitter (remote key) under certain preconditions. Reasons for this include:

- Coverage of the ID transmitter by metallic objects.
- Frequency interference due to smartphones, mobile phones, MP3 playback devices (e.g. storing smartphones and ID transmitters together in the cup holder) which may cause interference to the transmission frequency of the ID transmitter.
- Charger in vehicle electrical system power socket
- Storing the ID transmitter in front of the instrument cluster or the display (switching frequency of the display illumination may interfere with the transmission frequency of the ID transmitter).
- Interference from pylons.


The receiver for the remote is between the roof and headliner. Not sure where though but the wiring might be run close to the receiver causing the issue.

Description of the receiver:

Remote control receiver

The radio signals from the remote key or the ID transmitter are received by the remote control receiver and relayed to the Car Access System (CAS) or the front electronic module (FEM) or the Body Domain Controller (BDC).

Depending on the series, the following control units control access to the vehicle (central locking system) and its systems (e.g. key identification, electronic immobiliser, release for engine start):

Example F01, F12: Car Access System (CAS)
Example F20, F30: Front Electronic Module (FEM)
Example F15, F56, I12: Body Domain Controller (BDC)
The control unit (CAS or FEM or BDC) is the master control unit. It is therefore the control unit (CAS or FEM or BDC) that issues the release.

The remote control receiver has a transmitter/receiver module. This enables bidirectional communication to be established between remote key and/or ID transmitter and remote control receiver.

The remote key is the key for the central locking system. The ID transmitter is the key for the central locking system on vehicles with Comfort Access. If the vehicle is equipped with Comfort Access, the vehicle can be unlocked or locked without active use of the ID transmitter.

Functional description
Pressing the release button or the central locking button on the ID transmitter transmits an encrypted remote control signal. The remote control receiver receives the remote control signal with an integrated aerial. The signal is then demodulated, processed and checked in the remote control receiver. That means: The radio signal contains a vehicle-specific constant 'value' which is checked by the remote control receiver. Only when this constant value is correct is the information forwarded along the local interconnect network bus to the control unit (CAS or FEM or BDC). This means: Radio signals from remote keys or ID transmitters belonging to different vehicles (but the same product line) have no effect on the access to the vehicle or its systems. The remote control signal is authenticated in the control unit (CAS or FEM or BDC). If the request is duly authorised, the control unit (CAS or FEM or BDC) wakes up the vehicle and either locks or unlocks the vehicle.

The transmission frequency of the remote key and/or ID transmitter is country-dependent. The following high frequencies are currently used:

315 MHz
434 MHz
868 MHz
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      11-13-2020, 03:06 PM   #7
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Isn't the antenna for the keyfob located on the rear windshield and mounting some aftermarket electronics near it may effect the operation
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      11-14-2020, 11:13 AM   #8
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As the X3 is not my daily driver, I wasn't too worried about having full coverage. I just removed the rear camera completely. Have the front cam hardwired into the fuse box in glove compartment.
I had my rear camera mounted on the plastic trim piece right above the rear window.
This involved removing that trim piece to route wires and it was routed through the rubber boot from the cabin to the door. This was a pain.
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      11-16-2020, 08:14 AM   #9
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I routed both cables from the front camera to the rear, along the same path...
I was going to run the power on one side and the rear camera on the other, but got lazy.

So far, seems ok...

Across the top of the windshield, tucked into the headliner... across the top of the weatherseal in the front passenger door, across the B pillar, across the top of the weatherseal in the rear passenger door, and down the C pillar to the rear quarter behind the backseat - made the transition right where the leather meets the plastic at the seatbelt spool.

The power cable runs behind that panel to the fuse box / The rear camera cable runs behind that panel and then up the back post to the rubber boot to go from inside the cabin into the rear door frame.... yes - P.I.T.A. - no question!

When you remove the trim around the back glass, you see a control box directly above the center of the glass, where ALL of the wire connections are made to the antenna, rear defrost, etc...

As opposed to running the cable directly across this panel to place the camera in the center of the glass at the top, I dropped it directly down and out of the first large opening in the frame... places the camera cable an inch or two away from the other wires, and away from that box...... this places the camera heavy towards the passenger side of the glass... but the angle of the camera still covers both side of the lanes behind the car - so this works just fine.

I placed the camera a bit lower on the glass.... placing the camera lens between the defrost lines... yet still behind the "clear sweep" area of the rear wiper.

It's only been a couple days... but so far so good... No issues with battery, or remote, or the convenience access package.
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      11-16-2020, 12:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtox9 View Post
I routed both cables from the front camera to the rear, along the same path...
I was going to run the power on one side and the rear camera on the other, but got lazy.

So far, seems ok...

Across the top of the windshield, tucked into the headliner... across the top of the weatherseal in the front passenger door, across the B pillar, across the top of the weatherseal in the rear passenger door, and down the C pillar to the rear quarter behind the backseat - made the transition right where the leather meets the plastic at the seatbelt spool.

The power cable runs behind that panel to the fuse box / The rear camera cable runs behind that panel and then up the back post to the rubber boot to go from inside the cabin into the rear door frame.... yes - P.I.T.A. - no question!

When you remove the trim around the back glass, you see a control box directly above the center of the glass, where ALL of the wire connections are made to the antenna, rear defrost, etc...

As opposed to running the cable directly across this panel to place the camera in the center of the glass at the top, I dropped it directly down and out of the first large opening in the frame... places the camera cable an inch or two away from the other wires, and away from that box...... this places the camera heavy towards the passenger side of the glass... but the angle of the camera still covers both side of the lanes behind the car - so this works just fine.

I placed the camera a bit lower on the glass.... placing the camera lens between the defrost lines... yet still behind the "clear sweep" area of the rear wiper.

It's only been a couple days... but so far so good... No issues with battery, or remote, or the convenience access package.
Glad to hear it's working!

That control box above the glass is the Aerial Amplifier, amplifies radio audio signals and connects to various items like the rear window element. Electromagnetic interference from a cable run too close to that could cause some issues, but you would probably also have issues with radio audio quality too.
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      11-17-2020, 10:51 AM   #11
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Here are some photos...
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      11-17-2020, 01:43 PM   #12
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Nice! I wouldn't opt for that camera placement but install is super clean.
I guess the trick here is not to have any wires cross the control box.
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