[FSociety]

Originally Posted by Lotus99

First off, It's amazing What you are doing. The first seriously modded X3 on here!

I'm confused though by the so-called stock baseline dyno. How is it possible, with no tune, to get 324 WHP? And I'm guessing you must be running a tune if you're dynoing on E30, first of all.

A stock X3 with 15% loss would put out somewhere around 260 WHP I would expect.

The Downpipe, Intercooler and E30 adds up even if stock tune =D

[hardparker]

Originally Posted by Lotus99

First off, It's amazing What you are doing. The first seriously modded X3 on here!

I'm confused though by the so-called stock baseline dyno. How is it possible, with no tune, to get 324 WHP? And I'm guessing you must be running a tune if you're dynoing on E30, first of all.

A stock X3 with 15% loss would put out somewhere around 260 WHP I would expect.

Thanks. It made that 324 whp at a 14:1 AFR. Too damn lean at that RPM and power level. I'm guessing that's the reason for the unexpected bump in power.

That was a result of E30 in the tank and reflashing to the stock tune, then doing a dyno run without giving the DME a chance to adjust the fuel trims for the fuel in the tank.

[hardparker]

Originally Posted by FSociety

The Downpipe, Intercooler and E30 adds up even if stock tune =D

That's all certainly true, too. It's all worth something, or we wouldn't bother.

Edit: Wait, I'm on stock downpipe on those dynos. My UR catted DP goes in with the PS2 next week.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by hardparker

Thanks. It made that 324 whp at a 14:1 AFR. Too damn lean at that RPM and power level. I'm guessing that's the reason for the unexpected bump in power.

That was a result of E30 in the tank and reflashing to the stock tune, then doing a dyno run without giving the DME a chance to adjust the fuel trims for the fuel in the tank.

You know whats funny our cars run lean stock and only after 5900rpm i saw on stock it would go down to 12.9-13.2

Originally Posted by hardparker

That's all certainly true, too. It's all worth something, or we wouldn't bother.

Edit: Wait, I'm on stock downpipe on those dynos. My UR catted DP goes in with the PS2 next week.

E30 adds power even on stock cats I also saw the gains in my fully stock car

I can try to help you find a better dyno, preferably Dynojet.

[hardparker]

Originally Posted by FSociety

You know whats funny our cars run lean stock and only after 5900rpm i saw on stock it would go down to 12.9-13.2

E30 adds power even on stock cats I also saw the gains in my fully stock car

I can try to help you find a better dyno, preferably Dynojet.

Yup, ethanol is the shit! I can't wait to have a PI setup next year with ethanol auto tuning.

I posted up the logs in post #20, alongside the dyno charts. You can see it's waaaay to lean and closing throttle on the stock map run. Only after it comes out of throttle closure around 5500 RPM does it make peak power on this map. Lamda there is mid 13s, while the other runs at that RPM are mid 12s. The AFRs on the stock tune pull are dangerously lean even for an N55. If running significant ethanol content, I recommend NOT reflashing to the stock tune and going WOT until the fuel trims have adjusted to the fuel. This was a dumb mistake on my part. Thank god for DME throttle closure keeping things safe-ish.

That Land and Sea is likely better than any Dynojet and is only 10 minutes from my house. That shop has a 2WD DynoJet and opted for the Land and Sea when it came time to invest in a new AWD dyno. It's a nice in-floor, low profile roller, eddy current loaded setup. VERY nice! They use it with the eddy current loading for all of their in house tunes, including 2WD cars. Most of the cars they tune in house are in the 500-1000 whp range. The numbers I put down seem to correlate fairly well with other N55 dynos that I've seen with similar mods, with a mild discrepancy on the stock tune run due to the lean AFRs making more power.

There's an AWD DynoJet about 30 minutes away. It was the only AWD dyno nearby for a long time. I've seen several cars dynoed on it, and it's a very "generous" dyno, showing more whp by a good margin than other dynos, even for the same vehicle. I know for a fact it's been run miscalibrated for some time. On a morning when we were dynoing some cars there, with the shop doors wide open and dense frost showing with every breath, down in the 25* range, the dyno console showed that ambient temperature was 85*, because the temp sensor was stuffed away in the cabinet with the PC. So, the correction factor was massively skewed and show increased power levels.

[hardparker]

Under way with the install. On the agenda are the PS2, Pure turbo inlet, Ultimate Racing catted downpipe, water pump and thermostat replacement, as well as a big aftermarket oil cooler. I'll be starting with the BM3 2H 91 octane OTS tune.

[hardparker]

It's done. The Pure inlet was made to fit. Barely. The BM3 OTS 2H 91 octane tune seems seamless. Maybe a little rich, which makes me wonder if I have the O2 sensor plugs swapped, if that's possible. It may just be judiciously rich.

It pulls nicely to redline and flows 25% more according to the MAF. It drives more civilized at lower RPM while the turbo spools, versus the massive 2-2.5K torque spike of the stock turbo. I no longer have to worry about manually short shifting to stay in the power band, which makes the 8HP that much more enjoyable.

The giant oil cooler keeps the temps at bay and delays warm up a bit, but is nice to have on hand for additional cooling capacity. I plan on doing an additional trans cooler at some point as well.

Note my scraggly garage and scraggly self.

[E90705]

😮 How difficult was the ps2 Install ? Any side by side pics of the stock turbo vs pure stage 2 turbo?

[hardparker]

It wasn't difficult, per se, just very time consuming. It took me and a buddy 40 hours doing it on jack stands in my driveway. We worked inside of an EZ-UP tent with sidewalls and used 50 pounds of propane over those four days to stay warm in temps down to 10* with windchill.

A lot of stuff has to come out and access to a lot of the fasteners is far less than ideal. A good collections of extensions, wobbles and swivels is required.
Pics of compressor side for comparison below. The turbine side upgrade is equally impressive, but you'll have to find one of the many pictures posted out there, as apparently I didn't take any of the turbine side.

[doodlebro]

Originally Posted by hardparker

It wasn't difficult, per se, just very time consuming. It took me and a buddy 40 hours doing it on jack stands in my driveway. We worked inside of an EZ-UP tent with sidewalls and used 50 pounds of propane over those four days to stay warm in temps down to 10* with windchill.

A lot of stuff has to come out and access to a lot of the fasteners is far less than ideal. A good collections of extensions, wobbles and swivels is required.
Pics of compressor side for comparison below. The turbine side upgrade is equally impressive, but you'll have to find one of the many pictures posted out there, as apparently I didn't take any of the turbine side.

I know it's been awhile, but I'm about to get my PS2 installed and wanted to see if you have any tips for getting the inlet to fit due to the curve. Looks like you used some kind of glue/epoxy? I might just be blind.

[FSociety]

Why not reach out to Juan@BigBoost_Turbo BigBoost for Stg3 turbo kit

[x3sm]

Also, any tips on cat less down pipe install? Doing mine next weekend

[doodlebro]

Originally Posted by x3sm

Also, any tips on cat less down pipe install? Doing mine next weekend

Stock cat is a bitch if you leave the O2 sensors in as you lower it... Top one gets caught on the bracket. My catless VRSF did not have any bracket mounts, so I used E Torx to take off the bracket on the car side and that finally let the downpipe come down.

I also found that the lower O2 sensor had been stripped when the sensor was threaded, so it was forced out and I had to splice in a new one.

If you have all the tools you need, you'll do fine. I used this to do it, make sure you read everything, and you don't have to remove the whole exhaust, just remove the nut on the mount closest to the downpipe so that you can shimmy it off the downpipe and onto the new one: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...erter/EVaJWdvq

[HDBoss]

Originally Posted by FSociety

Why not reach out to Juan from BigBoost for Stg3 turbo kit

I contacted him and going to make a decision to install BigBoost Stage 3 kit with Master Power R6159 or more simple PS2. I got an info about kit content and Juan declare "it suits f25 body".

Can't find any info about BigBoost kit installation for f25. As I understood it's necessary to install all custom pipes because of Stg 3: DP, Turbo Inlet, CP, Oil and Coolant lines (all this stuff included in the kit).

As for now I don't want to make a huge WHP but going to use more reliable BB turbo with lower oil requirements. Is it worth to invest in reliability and future updates with Master Power R6159?

[bm3tuning]

Originally Posted by HDBoss

I contacted him and going to make a decision to install BigBoost Stage 3 kit with Master Power R6159 or more simple PS2. I got an info about kit content and Juan declare "it suits f25 body".

Can't find any info about BigBoost kit installation for f25. As I understood it's necessary to install all custom pipes because of Stg 3: DP, Turbo Inlet, CP, Oil and Coolant lines (all this stuff included in the kit).

As for now I don't want to make a huge WHP but going to use more reliable BB turbo with lower oil requirements. Is it worth to invest in reliability and future updates with Master Power R6159?

He is best to ask!
I highly recommend him

[HDBoss]

One more nooby question in this thread:

Here is info I found from different forums:
—All about boost level
With Stage 2 turbo engine can breathe much better through the exhaust system, and therefore makes more power at less boost. With smaller turbos: excessive exhaust system back pressure between the cylinders and the turbine wheel result in diminishing returns as boost increases. A bigger turbo may show higher WHP.
Boost psi/WHP may be vary and it depends on dyno/turbo. There are maximum number I found for Stage 2 turbo and 93 oct:
15 psi, 430 whp
17 psi, 450 whp - need LPFP stg2 to assist HPFP
20 psi, 490whp - need hi-flow intake, DV+, meth
21 psi, 500whp - need n20 TMAP
22 psi, 510whp
23 psi, 525whp
24 psi, 540whp
I can perfectly run 17-18 psi up to 470 whp daily on 93 with no meth (old style HPFP).
— All about Meth.
Port injection (tank fuel) can be run on any fuel but with 93 oct there will be no performance benefits. At least with meth there will be performance benefits. With 93 oct only and TBI/PI it would be too much fuel but my limitation is octane so DPMI is right option and CP WMI can be installed also. Can start from 20psi with a two CM5 nozzles on CP (this should be enough for a while). I suppose a truly progressive methanol kit requires to be able to get 23psi, 540whp on 93 oct. Found that Aquamist HFS4 can be tuned with BM3 but I have to install DPMI kit from Fuel-it if want to go higher than 20 psi.

My Turbo list for 24psi, 540whp, 93 oct + meth.
I have to use a larger turbo if only planning to run pump gas and make more power.
I found next variants:
efr 7670 (it would be a little less laggy but have less top end compare to BBT)
Bigboost stage 3.3 is 6159
PS2 is similar sized as BBT (540WHP in near the maximum for it)

Is it makes sense to do 24psi/540WHP with efr7670?

[hardparker]

I just broke weak and ordered a BigBoost 3.4. I'd been trying to wait until Juan could work up a ball bearing, exernal wastegate setup with an X3 specific downpipe. In the end I decided to order up now, since they're nicely discounted.

I'll have to do some fab work to make the downpipe fit to the X3's exhaust, but I figure it gives me a reason to buy the TIG welder I've always wanted. I'm aiming for 600 WHP up here in the thin, hot air of Albuquerque. Wish me luck.

[bimmer ///man]

What made you go with Big Boost? Speedtech looks to be the better option due to the Borg Warner EFR option. All the stock components hook up and the 8374 is internally wastegated. External wastegate seems like a pain and not necessary for 600whp.

[hardparker]

Originally Posted by bimmer ///man

What made you go with Big Boost? Speedtech looks to be the better option due to the Borg Warner EFR option. All the stock components hook up and the 8374 is internally wastegated. External wastegate seems like a pain and not necessary for 600whp.

Big Boost has a better track record, with far more people running their kit with zero issues. That and the fact that it's significantly less expensive than the Speedtech. Also not a fan of the water pump relocation bracket on the Speedtech.

[bimmer ///man]

It’s been tough to find info on either kit but good to hear Big Boost is running well. Looking forward to hearing how your install goes.

What’s the issue with the Speedtech water pump bracket? I can’t find a pic of it

[hardparker]

Originally Posted by bimmer ///man

It’s been tough to find info on either kit but good to hear Big Boost is running well. Looking forward to hearing how your install goes.

What’s the issue with the Speedtech water pump bracket? I can’t find a pic of it

I believe it relocates it further forward and lower. The BigBoost kit leaves it stock.