[AlexF25]

Originally Posted by deyrag

Nice write up but I would suggest removing the outer bolt on the lower control arm so you do not disturb the eccentric bolt necessitating an alignment afterwards.

Just did the rear shocks few weeks ago and wanted to add that I first tried to replace rear shock with just removing the outer bolt as you suggested, but was not able to swing the arm down enough to remove the shock.

The eccentric bolt on the inner side has an oval head that fits into a slot on the frame that prevents it from swiveling as a round bolt would. Ended up removing the entire arm, which wasn't too big of a deal.

The second rear shock went a smoother and quicker just removing the inner eccentric bolt as shown by OP.

[evilchargerfan]

For those of you planning to do rear end links, doing it same time as rear shocks would be a good idea




(low clearance between the spring to end link. possible to get to, but not as convenient)

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by AlexF25

Just did the rear shocks few weeks ago and wanted to add that I first tried to replace rear shock with just removing the outer bolt as you suggested, but was not able to swing the arm down enough to remove the shock.

The eccentric bolt on the inner side has an oval head that fits into a slot on the frame that prevents it from swiveling as a round bolt would. Ended up removing the entire arm, which wasn't too big of a deal.

The second rear shock went a smoother and quicker just removing the inner eccentric bolt as shown by OP.

I'm having issues lining up the outer bolt and the wheel carrier. My thoughts are that the inner bolt may be easier to line up because it is further away from the strut bolt and wheel carrier so you have more leverage to get it into place.

[Polo08816]

So the key with doing this is that you need to basically attack this problem from the inner (alignment) bolt. Use two jacks to get it back into position. One on the wheel carrier/brake rotor and one to lever the lower control arm so that it lines up with the alignment bolt hole in the rear subframe.

[AF4iK]

Is there any reason the spring can't be removed while still on the vehicle?

My spring broke in the exact same spot as the OP's. I was thinking of just removing the center shock nut first and then lowering the bottom-end with a jack. In theory, this should relieve the tension without having to deal with a spring compressor.
I've seen it done on other vehicles but haven't seen anyone do it on the X3 so I'm wondering if there's some reason that I'm not aware of.

Btw I find it very odd that nearly every single break I've seen online seems to be in the exact same spot (lower coil) on the passenger side.

Also found this video demonstrating that the lower control arm can be lowered with a lever:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGzeSb0rvoc

[TEF]

My '16 28d xdrive was up for the annual PA inspection and my indy mechanic noticed TWO broken rear springs. In fact, the break on each was pretty much the same as the one pictured in this thread. Over decades of owning cars of all brand, I have yet to experience a broken spring much less two on the same vehicle. My mechanic installed NAPA replacements as I was more interested in getting though the inspection in the least amount of time. The work cost me $800 for parts and labor and after seeing the steps involved to access the upper mounting flange, his price doesn't seem that bad.

While just a thought, it seems to me that springs breaking in the same spot would suggest that OE supplier provided BMW a load of defective parts.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by TEF

While just a thought, it seems to me that springs breaking in the same spot would suggest that OE supplier provided BMW a load of defective parts.

This break is more common on vehicles in snow belts due to the excessive amount of salt they put down. I good power washing in the spring to the undercarriage/suspension paying attention to the bottom of the springs where salt/dirt collect goes a long way in reducing spring failure from corrosion. These failures are not isolated to the F25, many other BMW models exhibit spring failures as well. I'm assuming the paint on modern BMW springs is probably more environment friendly and therefore less durable

[TEF]

I will concede that road salt is never good for any car, however, this BMW is not my first vehicle to be exposed to winters in a snow belt. Therefore, I have to wonder why Toyotas, VWs and Volvos owned prior to this BMW suffered no spring failures.

[deyrag]

Ford Exploders were known for it as well so not isolated to BMW

[AF4iK]

I just tackled this job on the weekend. The spring was in really bad shape (see pics). The initial break was at the bottom wind of the coil but a second break occurred near the top as well.

I chose to remove the outer control arm bolt that connects to the wheel carrier. It's a little tight but I was able to push down the control arm just enough to remove/install the strut.
However, getting it bolted back up was a pain. It was very hard to align the holes. I used a jack on the swingarm plus another jack on the wheel carrier to try to get it all to align. It really helped to have a couple buddies help at this stage.

Other than that, the job was mostly drama free... until I discovered that the driver's side spring had also broken lol. Time to order another strut =(

[Blau]

I am reviving this thread because I've searched high low but cannot find the torque specs for the struts or the shocks anywhere. The BMW tis website no longer works.

If anyone has these specs, please let me know. I hate the way that these strap bearings are made where they have to be tapped using the screws. So I want to make sure that I have my torque values, correct.

Thank you

[gitee]

Torque specs