[.chris]

Originally Posted by enyap

For those having errors in your idrive, have you simply tried switching off voltage monitoring?

If you have BimmerCode, it’s a simple process.

Hi,

where can I find the settings? In expert mode?

Greets

[pdotc84]

Originally Posted by Detailers Domain

Got the Bay Optics ones from LightWerkz

No codes, 2-3 hour installation, the long part is getting the lights out.

Yellow DRL's at LightWerkz

Would you be able to do these for others?

[spaceman12]

Seeking some help as I know many here have removed the bumper themselves.

I hired a shop to do mine a couple months ago and unfortunately only now notice some panel gap that may not normal between the bumper and fender.

Pics below are from perspective of standing right infront of the mirror and looking down towards the front. I was wondering if you guys are seeing similar panel gaps for the front bumper?

And for those who took it off and put it back on, any idea on what could be causing this gap if it is not normal? When I press against the panel it feels like it has absolutely no room to reduce the gap.

[JustinHEMI]

For my 24 X3 m40i, would I be able to do this without removing bumper/light if I have low profile torx by removing the fender liner?

[Rhdlife]

So first issue, originally installed 5/11/23. Got light on the dash today and in idrive, unlocking the DRLs light up but quickly fade, blinkers work, headlights work. Odd thing is DRLs in right side do not stay on by themselves like normal operation. Regardless of auto is selected or parking lights are selected. But when headlights are turned to the ON position all lights work, DRLs, low beam, high beam and blinkers. Very odd, I contacted ice driver and they said they would warranty it so I’ll report back once I receive.

[Rhdlife]

Originally Posted by Rhdlife

So first issue, originally installed 5/11/23. Got light on the dash today and in idrive, unlocking the DRLs light up but quickly fade, blinkers work, headlights work. Odd thing is DRLs in right side do not stay on by themselves like normal operation. Regardless of auto is selected or parking lights are selected. But when headlights are turned to the ON position all lights work, DRLs, low beam, high beam and blinkers. Very odd, I contacted ice driver and they said they would warranty it so I’ll report back once I receive.

Update… pulled the upper module, turns out one of the LEDs for the DRL fell off of the board and has been burned into the tube. I removed what I could and replaced board and everything works like it should with no errors and I don’t notice any light output difference. Definitely concerned about the longevity of the tube though. I did use the thermal paste glue blue I don’t think it was as good as factory.

[eg80sc]

Warning for LCI people: This is not an Easy DIY to do it correctly if you did not purchase bulb with the heatsink already on it. There are too many risks involved, this makes it not a basic mod but quickly can turn into a nightmare situation if you mess up.

1. Your bulbs are friction rivet mounted to the heatsink, you will need to drill out the rivets or pry out the oem bulbs which risks the board bending and breaking. Please purchase bulbs with heatsinks already. If you are prying, note the rivet areas will stretch and crack the board. Make sure to drill out if you are planning to reuse the heatsink and OEM bulb in the future.

If you want to pry the board off, use two old credit cards and wedge between the heatsink and board and shove a screw driver in between. Please note: This will break and crack the board off, not recommended.

2. You absolutely cannot do this with the bumper on the car, you must remove the headlights to do them correctly and access two of the boards. Can't believe people are using the Dremel to avoid this; just buy some extra bumper plastic rivets and take it off and do it right...

3. Do not use thermal tape. Please use industrial high strength thermal epoxy glue such as 8329TFF adhesive and let the adhesive cure and set for few hours. If you tug it after few hours you will notice it's not going to come off unless you pry it off.

Heat is what kills the LED, ones from Bayoptik, IND and/or EAS looks exactly like the one we received from a Chinese supplier at half the cost. Mine look to be metal plated like the newer revisions most vendors are selling.

This quickly became a more hands-on project due to modifications needed, would not recommend to be honest but it is a pretty good mod. Just please buy the ones with heatsink already on them and you can avoid all the drilling out and adhesive part.

[pmark837]

Originally Posted by Rhdlife

Update… pulled the upper module, turns out one of the LEDs for the DRL fell off of the board and has been burned into the tube. I removed what I could and replaced board and everything works like it should with no errors and I don’t notice any light output difference. Definitely concerned about the longevity of the tube though. I did use the thermal paste glue blue I don’t think it was as good as factory.

Thats wild, it got so hot it melted all the solder holding some of the other SMD's on the board too.

[bad430benz]

Originally Posted by eg80sc

[B]Can't believe people are using the Dremel to avoid this

Well believe it cuz it happens . Way faster and easier than the 1000 step process you and others are going through . I actually can't believe anyone would rather disassemble the whole front of the vehicle to change some light colors

If I didn't come up with the Dremel method myself , I would never have installed the DRLs .

[dinan5m3]

Originally Posted by bad430benz

If I didn't come up with the Dremel method myself ,

What exactly in this "Dremel method"?

[bad430benz]

Originally Posted by dinan5m3

What exactly in this "Dremel method"?

Using a Dremel on the plastic light housings to make enough room to get the DRLs out without removing bumpers or lights .

[eg80sc]

Originally Posted by bad430benz

Well believe it cuz it happens . Way faster and easier than the 1000 step process you and others are going through . I actually can't believe anyone would rather disassemble the whole front of the vehicle to change some light colors

If I didn't come up with the Dremel method myself , I would never have installed the DRLs .

I can respect your decision, I just don't have the heart to dremel a brand new car

[SCCmass1]

Has anyone here purchased the chips already attached to new heatsinks? If so, where can this setup be purchased?

[NevadaK]

Silence about the chips attached to the heatsinks?? I saw ali express has the chips for pre-LCI X3M's for $50 per set. Seems pretty cheap. Anybody try these things? The yellow DRL's seem pretty popular with the Florida BMW crowd.