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      11-17-2012, 05:16 PM   #23
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I am attaching an Excel Spreadsheet with the coding fixes for LED Bulb Errors, using this fix you can install any LED bulb that fits the socket. Coding was done using BMW E-Sys Software and Cable that I purchased from April1. I started coding about 2 months ago after discovering that this was an option to personalize my F10 and F25 BMW’s. This posting is not about “how to code” but will give those coders the directions to fix the bulb errors. This sheet only contains the codes I changed, I was able to figure out the nomenclature for some of the bulbs and I will list those below.
NSW: Front Fog Lights
NSL: Rear Fog Lights
RFS: Reverse Lights
BL: Brake Lights
FRA_HL or HR: Rear Turn Signals (Left or Right)
FRA_VL or VR: Front Turn Signals (Left or Right)
WBL: I am uncertain but believe this is the Rear LED Brake Strips on HID equipped F25’s.

Great job man! is there any way you can find out the parking light section?? im thinking it is this.. AUSG_00_1_SL_L_ Google translate on "parking lights" is "Standlicht" im assuming its abbreviated to SL

Last edited by X3vader; 11-17-2012 at 05:30 PM.
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      11-18-2012, 12:39 PM   #24
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Great job man! is there any way you can find out the parking light section?? im thinking it is this.. AUSG_00_1_SL_L_ Google translate on "parking lights" is "Standlicht" im assuming its abbreviated to SL
I found the low and high beams and the parking lights.......

POL = Parking Lights/Angel Eyes which ever you have, same setting

AL = Low Beams

FL = High Beams
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      11-20-2012, 01:15 PM   #25
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Great job man! is there any way you can find out the parking light section?? im thinking it is this.. AUSG_00_1_SL_L_ Google translate on "parking lights" is "Standlicht" im assuming its abbreviated to SL
I have the factory HID with Rear LED Parking/running lights so I have not decoded those lines. I did do a little deciphering and believe the LED Brake strips are WBL.
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      11-20-2012, 01:17 PM   #26
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I replaced my OEM front turn signal with the amber silver coated bulbs. Looks great and very cheap at Amazon.
That is always an option, I just wanted to go all LED. I was also concerned about heat with the coated bulbs as I had read problems others had experienced.
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      11-21-2012, 10:44 PM   #27
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I've had bad luck with brightness issues in the rear.
Anyone know what kind of LEDs and what shape best reflects off the tail light housing??


Also anyone try these CREE type projector bulbs in the tails?:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Extreme-Br...86c171&vxp=mtr
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      11-21-2012, 11:19 PM   #28
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The ones I got seem plenty bright in the day and reflect quite well. I'll try to take some pics during the day to show.
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      11-21-2012, 11:59 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Here is a video comparison of the new LEDs and the original...
Which ones are these? What did you end up buying?

I like how the orange shows up--never been a fan of red turn signals.
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      11-22-2012, 12:38 AM   #30
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Which ones are these? What did you end up buying?

I like how the orange shows up--never been a fan of red turn signals.
I got the ones mentioned earlier in this thread:

Rear: Red 48 SMD (7506) non error free (Part Number: 1156-R45-T)
Front: Amber 48 SMD (7506) non error free (Part Number: 1156-A45-T)

From www.superbrightleds.com

Except for the rear I got a pair of red (for the brake) and a pair of amber for the turns. So I ended up with 2 red and 4 amber total.
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      11-22-2012, 12:49 AM   #31
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I got the ones mentioned earlier in this thread:

Rear: Red 48 SMD (7506) non error free (Part Number: 1156-R45-T)
Front: Amber 48 SMD (7506) non error free (Part Number: 1156-A45-T)

From www.superbrightleds.com

Except for the rear I got a pair of red (for the brake) and a pair of amber for the turns. So I ended up with 2 red and 4 amber total.
Ahh, OK, and you programmed you car to ignore the errors. I thought you found CAN-enabled LED's. I may have to look more into this. Good to have the video and pictures! Looks like these are equivalent or a little brighter than the original incandescents?
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      11-22-2012, 03:04 PM   #32
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Any equal to brightness of the superbrightleds.com ones that are cheaper and error free??
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      11-22-2012, 03:22 PM   #33
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Ahh, OK, and you programmed you car to ignore the errors. I thought you found CAN-enabled LED's. I may have to look more into this. Good to have the video and pictures! Looks like these are equivalent or a little brighter than the original incandescents?
They appear that way to me, they seem very bright. The surface mount LEDs are pretty good.

I didn't find any no-error LEDs. To be honest, I wouldn't trust any. I've wired in resistors in past vehicles to get around the error and it's always worked well, but the resistors get very hot and it's actually melted nearby plastic. If a bulb has resistors inside to give a fake load to the body computer they will heat up (that electricity has to go somewhere, in this case converted to heat energy) and could possibly damage something. The steps to code away the error are so easy, the cables are easy to build or cheap to buy from other members and the software is all free. That's the way to go.
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      11-22-2012, 03:23 PM   #34
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Any equal to brightness of the superbrightleds.com ones that are cheaper and error free??
You could probably find some eBay LEDs that are very similar and take a chance that way, but honestly you bought a $50k BMW - don't cheap out on the parts for it.
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      11-22-2012, 06:25 PM   #35
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You could probably find some eBay LEDs that are very similar and take a chance that way, but honestly you bought a $50k BMW - don't cheap out on the parts for it.
I agree. I have now been running the Super bright LED's for a couple of weeks now and have had zero problems. They really aren't that expensive considering the life of the bulbs. I have had super brights in another vehicle for several years win no problems.
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      11-23-2012, 12:39 PM   #36
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I've been chatting with one of the folks at Super Bringt LEDs. His response to my inquiry was a little bizarre. However, I don't think he fully understands how BMW's manage bulbs either and left me wondering as well.

He did say their LED products have the capability to dissipate about 5W of power allowing CAN-enabled systems to properly detect a good bulb was in place. However, he said it was tricky with turn signals where it would need to dissipate up to 21W and their bulbs would overheat and shorten their life. I responded back to him to get more details about that and awaiting his reply.

He commented that one of their flasher relays would take care of this, but only if a car already has these. As far as I know, no BMW has a separate flasher relay and have not had them in probably the last 10 years, right? It was my impressions that all of the lights (exception maybe for headlights) are driven directly by the computer.

So, I was concerned to see if anyone with these LED's was experiencing any heat problems whatsoever?

Also, does anyone know if the coding to disable those checks actually stop the check process itself (does NOT end the cold pulses for continuity), or just mask the error (keeps sending cold checks)?

Finally, coding is required to prevent errors and hyper-flahsing, correct? Again, just referring to the LED lights form Super Bright LEDs.
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      11-23-2012, 01:39 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowboardjoe View Post
I've been chatting with one of the folks at Super Bringt LEDs. His response to my inquiry was a little bizarre. However, I don't think he fully understands how BMW's manage bulbs either and left me wondering as well.

He did say their LED products have the capability to dissipate about 5W of power allowing CAN-enabled systems to properly detect a good bulb was in place. However, he said it was tricky with turn signals where it would need to dissipate up to 21W and their bulbs would overheat and shorten their life. I responded back to him to get more details about that and awaiting his reply.

He commented that one of their flasher relays would take care of this, but only if a car already has these. As far as I know, no BMW has a separate flasher relay and have not had them in probably the last 10 years, right? It was my impressions that all of the lights (exception maybe for headlights) are driven directly by the computer.

So, I was concerned to see if anyone with these LED's was experiencing any heat problems whatsoever?

Also, does anyone know if the coding to disable those checks actually stop the check process itself (does NOT end the cold pulses for continuity), or just mask the error (keeps sending cold checks)?

Finally, coding is required to prevent errors and hyper-flahsing, correct? Again, just referring to the LED lights form Super Bright LEDs.
Yeah, he just doesn't understand how BMW lights work - but for many cars he's correct.

I'm not having any heat issues, I think you'll be fine there. Coding removes cold diagnostics (blinks when off) and warm diagnostics (checks when the bulb is turned on.)

Basically, these LEDs plus coding works perfectly - no compromises.
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      11-23-2012, 02:06 PM   #38
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With the rear flasher bulbs I found that you need 8.2 ohm or smaller resistor to replace the original 21W incandescent lamp so that the bulb monitoring validates the bulb Ok. The power dissipation in that resistor is then roughly the same than in the original 21W bulb (surprise, surprise…), so 5 W is far from enough.

The BA15s base amber or red LEDs from Super Bright Leds is said (in their web pages) to use about 0,175 A which makes the power dissipation of the LEDs to be 2,1W (with nominal 12V supply) so something more is needed to validate the bulb monitoring. A “raw” solution is to have parallel resistors with the LEDs but a more elegant solution is to turn off the monitoring with parameter programming (…pacecapt has good notes and experience about this, see this thread above). I personally used 10 ohm/25 W parallel resistors and I put these relative big resistors into the sides of the trunk (underneath the side covers). I also found the above 2.1 W LED bulbs to be a bit too dim to overcome the brightness of the original 21W bulb.

I have also LED bulbs in front flashers but surprisingly there were no bulb monitoring error messages even though I did not use any extra resistors there, so the monitoring for the front flasher bulb must be “milder
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      11-23-2012, 02:35 PM   #39
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Yeah, he just doesn't understand how BMW lights work - but for many cars he's correct.

I'm not having any heat issues, I think you'll be fine there. Coding removes cold diagnostics (blinks when off) and warm diagnostics (checks when the bulb is turned on.)

Basically, these LEDs plus coding works perfectly - no compromises.
I got a response from him already and he acknowledged the lack of headlight flashers going back to the 80's in BMW's. He also said that BMW's still varied quite a bit on the types of checks placed on the bulbs and there is a trend for the computer to drive the turn signals with higher wattage, but they did not know why.

I'm placing my order now for 4 amber and 2 red. Just realized I probably need to add two more for the rear fog lights/inner brake lamps since they are also used for brake force display. The "instant-on" of LED might help there.

Thanks for the great information to all on this thread!
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      11-24-2012, 09:46 AM   #40
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Follow up note to coding out errors...each of the bulbs has a code line that states "Bulb is LED" (choices are active or not active). All my OEM LED's have this line as active and the incandesent bulbs are set to not active. I have tried the aftermarket LED's on both settings and have seen no difference with either errors or brightness. I originally thought this might have an effect/change on the "Power" sent to the bulb but I am not sure on this issue. Still no problems with either cold or warm checks.
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      11-24-2012, 10:43 AM   #41
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Follow up note to coding out errors...each of the bulbs has a code line that states "Bulb is LED" (choices are active or not active). All my OEM LED's have this line as active and the incandesent bulbs are set to not active. I have tried the aftermarket LED's on both settings and have seen no difference with either errors or brightness. I originally thought this might have an effect/change on the "Power" sent to the bulb but I am not sure on this issue. Still no problems with either cold or warm checks.
Module FRM, bank 3060, go to the light property and change it to 100%, done! now the led's get full power, thats what i did to my headlights, changed it to xenon 100%, the headlights settings were at Halogen 65%, no more flickering.

Last edited by X3vader; 11-24-2012 at 11:15 AM.
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      11-24-2012, 10:49 AM   #42
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Module FRM, bank 3060, got to the light property and change it to 100%, done! now the led's get full power, thats what i did to my headlights, changed it to xenon 100%, the headlights settings were at Halogen 65%, no more flickering.
also... this 3060 module, controls all brightness settings for all lights, and what i saw, was..... that all lights were not 100%, after changing my high beams to 100%, man they got bright!
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      11-24-2012, 11:43 AM   #43
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If the original set level is ok, no need to increase the power level as it will only reduce the life of the lamps drastically. One shouldn't be worried about power level for LED lights as there are no inrush currents and there are no filaments/ gas to burn out.

Also never set a filament lamp as LED.
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      11-24-2012, 12:03 PM   #44
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also... this 3060 module, controls all brightness settings for all lights, and what i saw, was..... that all lights were not 100%, after changing my high beams to 100%, man they got bright!
I have been exploring this module and all of bulbs are not expressed in a %, the ones that are a % are almost all 100%, with the exception of POL 8%, SL2 50%. BL is (wert_03_12,7V; werte=32), FRA_V is (wert_03_13,5V; werte=87), FRA_H is (wert_03_13,0V; werte=82). What did you change?
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