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      11-18-2011, 09:41 PM   #23
shaikh_sakib
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Thanks Lotus for this info! I have an air compressor and wrench and wanted to get your thoughts and any do's or don't's when using this. Thanks! Sak
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      11-18-2011, 10:30 PM   #24
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Lotus, have another question.

I heard BMW doesn't recommend tire rotations, but I was always leaning that these are always good to do to extend a tires life.

I see you also mention that you rotate your tires after you the winters/all seasons..so I'm assuming its good to do. Any further thoughts on why BMW doesn't reco this?
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      11-19-2011, 12:46 AM   #25
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You didn't list the Viceroy hockey puck in your list of required items.
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      11-19-2011, 11:52 PM   #26
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Wheel Lock or 12-point Socket Bolt?

Thanks Lotus for the excellent instruction. So I just received the beautiful jack point tool and two wheel hangers, and I was ready to change the winter wheels. But I found this (the bolt closest to "B"). Is that just another kind of bolt? Do I have to buy a special tool to remove it?
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      11-20-2011, 01:07 AM   #27
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Thanks Lotus, my respect to you has upped to a new level . There are indeed two of the same keys in that tool bag. I checked that tool bag a while ago and confirmed the hook and the tool you mentioned in another thread. But I didn't notice the keys as they were hidden in another pocket.

Thanks again.
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      11-22-2011, 05:35 AM   #28
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Question regarding jacking

Hi, Your write up is excellent - I have already sourced the Jack Pad tool and wheel hangers from Reverse Logic and was going to use a Trolley Jack under the Jack Pad tool but I see from the picture you have posted that you seem to have a round block (probably rubber!) between the jack saddle and the JAck Pad tool!
Is this addition really necessary - why are you using it?
Your advice would be much appreciated.
Regards,
Phil
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      12-05-2011, 09:33 AM   #29
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I just received my USA mftr and shipped jack pad tool too and it is highly engineered and finished. Another commission cheque to Lotus must be on its way.

However, when I tried to order the nappa leather key cover fob from Amazon US I was declined as 'outside the ship zone' I have only seen lesser (non nappa) types on EU sites.
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      12-05-2011, 06:30 PM   #30
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Lotus7, thanks for this thread.
I basically got two jack pads because of it. Might come in handy when putting chains on the tires up in the mountains here (rarely happens, but CalTrans sometimes wants chains on AWD anyway).
Put them to use a couple of weekends ago after abusing the front tires in a remote part of Death Valley. One had a 2 inch gash on the sidewall, the other had a bubble on the sidewall. Getting two tires replaced meant the tire guys were going to lift the front of the car with floor jacks.
"Hold it!"
"I've got these things that go where you're supposed to lift the car".
Quizzical looks, but things got done right.

BTW, the run-flats are good for at least 40 miles of dirt roads (with 4 miles of snow) at 25-30MPH and 30 miles of paved at 45MPH.
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      12-06-2011, 01:43 PM   #31
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BTW, the run-flats are good for at least 40 miles of dirt roads (with 4 miles of snow) at 25-30MPH and 30 miles of paved at 45MPH.[/quote]

Razel - at those speeds that's 2 hours drive to get out of the desert to a tire dealer? Did you sustain any damage to the wheels or undercarriage?
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      12-06-2011, 07:46 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tank531 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Razel View Post
BTW, the run-flats are good for at least 40 miles of dirt roads (with 4 miles of snow) at 25-30MPH and 30 miles of paved at 45MPH.
Razel - at those speeds that's 2 hours drive to get out of the desert to a tire dealer? Did you sustain any damage to the wheels or undercarriage?
No damage other than to the tire. I honestly don't recall hitting something "that hard" (but, obviously I did), so the trip out was a bit longer than the one coming in. I was far more cautious on where the tires were going, and what was passing underneath. Sometimes the best path was driving on the wrong side, but with traffic at an almost non-existent state, it was all good. The tire with the broken sidewall barely looked like it was low on air, let alone "flat".
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      12-16-2011, 05:46 PM   #33
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Not sure if this is the best thread to post this in but I thought it might be useful:

Quote:
Tyre Handling and Storage

The life expectancy of your tyres is impossible to predict. You can increase the life and performance of your tyres, however, by properly handling and storing them when they are not in use.

When tyres sit outdoors, unused for long periods of time (a month or more), their surfaces become dry and surface cracks can appear. For this reason, tyres should always be stored in a cool, dry, clean, indoor environment.


Take the weight of their feet

If storage is for one month or more, eliminate the load on the tyres by raising the vehicle or by removing the tyres from the vehicle. If not, it could result in damage, premature aging or sudden tyre failure.


Keep them out of harm's way

When tyres are stored, be sure they are placed away from heat caused by hot pipes and electric generators. Be sure that the storage surfaces are clean and free from grease, petrol or other substances that could deteriorate the rubber. Tyres exposed to these materials during storage could be subject to sudden failure when they're driven on again.


Stacking and Handling

Do not stack tyres in piles over long periods. Try to avoid crushing your tyres under heavy objects. Accessories should be stored in their original packaging, on surfaces that don't present any danger from cutting, tearing or perforation. When handling tyres and accessories, use equipment that will not harm them. When handling tyres, it is recommend that you use protective gloves and clothing.


Short-term storage

Tyres may be stacked on top of each other in piles no higher than 1.2 metres (4ft), preferably on pallets. Reverse the order of the tyres every four weeks. When tyres are mounted on rims, store them inflated in a vertical position or in a single row on shelves.


Long-term storage

For longer-term storage, place tyres vertically on racks raised at least 10cm (4") above floor level. Slightly rotate them once a month to avoid distortion. If a fitted tyre is not used for a longer period of time, check the pressure regularly and maintain it at level recommended by the manufacturer.


Storing Cold Weather tyres

Following these few storage precautions will enable you to keep your Cold Weather tyres in perfect condition:

Before removing your tyres, note their position on your car. This will allow you to swap your front tyres to the back next winter, to balance their wear.
Clean your wheels and tyres with water and dry them well to limit any corrosion.

Remove any stones or debris that have been trapped in the tyre grooves.
If your tyres are fitted on rims, hang them up or lay them down. If they are not fitted, store them standing up or flat.
Store your tyres away from light; ideally in a cool, dry area. Above all, don’t store them near solvents (fuel, oils, etc.).
http://www.michelin.co.uk/tyres/lear...-storage-story
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      12-17-2011, 07:59 AM   #34
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Lotus, thanks again for your info on this subject and all the other members, not sure if anyone mentioned this but a little bit of anti-seize on the lugbolt threads and especially on the face of the hub & backside of wheel will help with future removal.
Little dab on spark plug threads is also a big help...
Thanks again to all, haven't ordered my x3 m series yet, but LOVE ALL THE INFO I'M GETTING FROM THIS FORUM....
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      12-18-2011, 10:58 PM   #35
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Lotus,

Why do you recommend to apply 10 ft*lb of torque and then lower the car slightly?
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      12-18-2011, 11:30 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
The initial torque is applied to center the (floating) wheels and to "seat" the conical taper lug bolts. This should be done before any vertical load is placed on the wheel. 10lb./ft. applied in a "star"pattern, is more than enough to keep the wheel centered when the load is re-applied by lowering the car.

The rear wheels could be fully torqued while being held motionless with the E-brake, BUT the front wheels will just spin (the transfer case clutch is disengaged so the front wheels "freewheel") unless you have a second person in the car standing on the service brakes. However, it's never a good idea to apply a lot of rotational torque to a wheel of a vehicle that's supported on a jack. That rotational torque translates into thrust that tries to move the vehicle.

With the E-brake on, the opposite side wheel "chocked", and the tire loaded, you can safely torque the bolts on any wheel completely.
Makes sense.
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      12-22-2011, 03:40 AM   #37
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Great guide.

Has anyone come across a bottle jack that has a similar cup that the jack pad will sit in. I really don't want to have to carry a trolley jack to replace a wheel when on the road.
I understand I can use a suitable BMW scissor jack, but would rather go with a bottle jack.

Cheers
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      12-30-2011, 07:27 AM   #38
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Sorry Lotus, this is how it's done:

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      12-30-2011, 05:08 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
FYI: The X3 uses a hub ring diameter of 72.47mm. Wheel Bore is 72.5mm.
I thought the F25 had a 72.56mm hub diameter.

I'm buying an aftermarket set of wheels (74mm centerbore) for my F25 and could use some advice as to the ring adapter I need.

Thanks for your help.

Last edited by renderfarmer; 12-31-2011 at 02:35 PM.
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      01-16-2012, 04:00 PM   #40
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Hey Lotus. Thanks for the great guide! I just swapped out my wheels for some aftermarket ones using your guide after I acquired all of the recommended tools.

My rims came with 74mm>72.5mm hub centric rings. I've read that these are only to facilitate installation of the wheel on an undersized hub. Is this true or do they also serve some mechanical purpose once the car is rolling?

If they really are just to ease installation, can I forgo them altogether in the future if I use the reverselogic lug bolt guides? Thanks again!
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      01-16-2012, 04:50 PM   #41
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I followed your instructions carefully regarding the gradual tightening sequence. I'll follow up and check the tension when I get home. I think that based on your reply I'll also splurge on a $35 set of Aluminum rings. The plastic ones are probably OK but they don't inspire confidence. Thanks again for all of your advice. So far it's proven sound.
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      02-13-2012, 04:21 PM   #42
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