Quote:
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Originally Posted by djs95
Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter
Maybe one is clamped more than the other. I'm not sure how to balance them from side to side electronically. Could you test the theory by lifting the rear tires( while securing the front wheels from rolling ) and try to spin each wheel. If one is frozen and the other spins freely then maybe you can loosen them again and try to get it to sync from side to side.
Edit: when using the T45 on the caliper side, did you rotate clockwise until it bottomed out? If not done on both sides the same , then maybe that is why caused the sync problem.
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I did rotate it clockwise until it bottomed out. I will try again this weekend to test your theory out. Have you heard of these steps below I found in another post?
If you leave the EMF extend/retract gear bottomed out (by turning clockwise with your Torx T45 as described above – which is otherwise necessary to do this job), you will simulate a seizure on the retract cycle of the test sequence the ECU runs darned-near every time anything happens while the car is parked. That’s because with the gear bottomed-out/fully-retracted it would simulate a retract seizure in the retract test phase (for lack of a better description).
Solution:
1. While doing the job as a last step (or take the wheels off and separate the EMF motor and gear if you already have this code) and before marrying the black plastic EMF motor with the male gear to the caliper with the female gear:
a. after your newly loaded caliper is mounted over the rotor, using your T45 tool, simply measure the remaining rotational clearance between EMF/pads and the rotor with a view to placing the EMF’s extension halfway between parking brake fully applied and parking brake fully retracted;
b. Do this by counting how many rotations of the EMF gear it takes to start applying brake pad clamping on the brake rotor. THEN BACK IT OFF BY ½ AS MANY ROTATIONS AS YOU COUNTED. You can rotate the rotor about 10 to 15 degrees with no brakng force on the rotor due to the slop in the entire driveline. When you feel caliper drag on the rotor so that you can’t rotate it back/forth, you know you’re fully extended. For me it took 10 counter-clockwise quarter-rotations of the T45 tool to extend from EMF fully retracted bottomed-out (as described above) to create clamping force on pads to rotor. I then just backed-off 5 quarter-turns (clockwise) and married the black plastic electronic motor to the EMF extender in the caliper and re-installed the wheels. Source: http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthre...4#post18650294 |
Good find. So it looks as if the installer would manually rotate the caliper side with T45 to make it tighten until there is no rotation of the rotor.
Then back it off enough to allow rotation of the rotor, then put the motor back in.
This would essentially stop from having to cycle the hand brake button to tighten. This could be where maybe someone might push down instead of up, causing a retract seizure since it can't make the motor physically move.
If this works for you, then I have some editing to do in the original post.
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