[MA78]

OK, now that I'm back on my computer I can write about detailing in more...well...detail.

Here goes:

Step 1
The Wash
If this is the first time you're washing your car, you should use dish soap like Dawn or Ajax. Just make sure it doesn't have any bleach or moisturizer in it. Use the a-fore-mentioned two bucket method. The orange utility buckets at home depot work great for this, and they're pretty cheap. You can buy Grit Guards at autogeek.net for about $10. Get two. One bucket is used for soap, the other is used to rinse your wash media after each scrubbing. Rinse your media after each body panel, and replace it if it seems to be getting really dirty.
I like to use chenille wash mits for cleaning the paint-work. You can use terry cloth rags for the trim, wheels and tires.
The reason you will use dish soap for the first wash is that it will strip away any old wax that may be left on the paint. You don't want that crap on there anyway. After you've applied your wax/sealant of your choice, you can start using other car wash soaps to keep it clean. DO NOT use dish soap after you've already waxed your car. It will strip off all your wax and leave your car naked! I like to use Zaino Z-7 and Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds.
Step 2:
Drying
There are two ways to dry your car. Or three if you use a combination of the two...which is what I do. The cheapest way is to invest in some good waffle weave micro fibre towels. They work great, last forever and don't hang on to debris. The faster and easier way is to use a leaf blower. This is really only an option if you have a very clean garage/driveway. Make sure that you're not just blowing dust and dirt all over your freshly washed car. You can also use an air compressor if you have one. Like I said, I like to use a combination of the two. It's faster that way. And fast = no water spots.
Step 3:
Claying
I use Nick's technique from bimmerfest:

Nick’s unsolicited Claying Tips & Tricks

Disclaimer: I am not a professional detailer nor an expert on paint care. I’m just a charter member of the ARZOA who has a little experience with clay, and one of my cars is Jet Black and shows all of my mistakes!

Basic Rules:
Clay baring does not damage paint, only unskillful or careless clay bar users damage paint! There are several basic rules to the successful use of clay bar:
(1) use plenty of lubricant
(2) use only fresh, clean clay
(3) use plenty of lubricant
(4) use a very light hand with the clay
(5) use plenty of lubricant
(6) stretch and refold the clay frequently (do not knead)
(7) use plenty of lubricant
(8) on any given area, only clay until it passes the baggie test
(9) use plenty of lubricant

Step by Step:
Wash your car using Dawn liquid dish detergent. This will get rid of any wax, oils, or silicone on the paint. Don’t use a circular motion, use longitudinal strokes on the horizontal surfaces, and vertical strokes on the vertical surfaces.

Prepare a spray bottle with a half ounce of your favorite car wash soap and fill with water ... preferable distilled water from the grocery store.

Put your hand in a sandwich baggie (the very thin kind, NOT a ZipLoc), spray a small area of your paint with the soap/water solution as a lubricant and lightly run your hand over the paint. Any contaminants will feel like huge bumps through the baggie!

Before using your clay it’s best to cut it into smaller pieces. I cut mine so that when flattened I have a fairly thin 2”x3” rectangle. When claying I use only one side of the patty - it makes stretching and folding easier. When folding is needed I pull on the 2” ends to make a 2”x4” patty, then pull on the 4” ends to make a 3”x4” patty. Fold in half and you have a clean 3”x2” patty that is clean on both sides. Again, use only one side before refolding.

Use your claybar lightly on any areas that feel bumpy ... and use plenty of lubricant. No need to use the expensive lube sold for use with a claybar .… your car wash solution is just as good, but use it very liberally. It's much less expensive than your paint!

After finishing the claybar process wash the car again with your favorite car wash solution. If you do a thorough rinsing as you work, then washing will not be needed. Again, use longitudinal strokes on the horizontal surfaces, and vertical strokes on the vertical surfaces. Use light pressure when washing, and rinse your mitt frequently. Blot to dry, do not rub.

If your paint has any swirl marks or spider-webbing, now is the time to take care of them.

A little caution with the claybar: Do not be tempted to save a couple of dollars by using the least expensive clay. As you use the clay periodically stretch it out and refold it to always present a clean surface to your paint. If you drop the bar, then throw it away! Always use a lot of lubricant and a light rubbing motion ... be gentle with your paint.

Recommended products:
Dawn liquid dish detergent (for wax, oil, etc. removal)
Clay Magic or Z-18 (for claying)
Big Blue Towel from Classic Motoring Accessories (for drying)

Remember: When claying use plenty of lubricant and a light touch. With a little effort you’ll have great looking paint. Good luck.

Step 4:
Wash again!
Yeah, you will want to do a quick wash and dry before you apply wax or sealant after claying your car. Perfection takes time and patience.

Step 5:
Tape it up
Tape off all your trim prior to applying wax. You DO NOT want to get wax or sealant on your black trim. It's a pain in the ass to remove. Just get some blue painters tape and have fun making your car look all Tron.

Step 6:
Sealant
So before we get into the process, lets talk about what sealant is and what it isn't. Sealant, unlike wax, is a totally synthetic protectant. Whereas a wax is a compound of natural carnauba oil. Sealants will last longer and give a brighter shine than a wax will, but lack warmth. With some colours that is fine, but with reds, whites black and blues, you should really use a sealant AND a wax to get the best look and protection.
So, applying sealant is different depending on the type you are using. I use Zaino Z-2 and just follow the directions on the bottle. It's pretty simple. Do two layers if you have time.

Step 7:
Wax
After all your sealant is removed, it's time for your LSP (last step product). This is the money shot. Use the good stuff. I like to use Swissvax Blau-Weiss. It's especially formulated for BMW paint and looks effing AMAZING when it's done. It's not cheap though. If you want something more affordable, go with Dodo Juice. Dodo makes different waxes for different colours, so make sure you get the right one.
I like to use an orbital polisher for waxing, but you certainly don't need one to do it right. Just get one of these kits and you'll be set. Do one body panel at a time and be sure to let the wax fully cure before removing it.

Step 8:
Trim Care
First, use THIS on all your door seals. It will keep them soft and supple. Then you'll want to clean and seal your exterior trim pieces. Like I said before, I don't like the greasy look you get from cheaper dressings. I like the black trim to look clean and shinny, but not wet and greasy like a Jersey Shore kid. Einszett Plastic Cleaner is my favorite product for this. Just spray it on your mf towel and clean away.